Bump ... Can someone help? Really need a few good photos snapped of below the playfield.

Surprised I can't find much of anything useful on Pinside, IPDB, or the net.

For pinster. Not sure how these will come through but I have higher res if needed.

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And a few more.

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Thanks, perfect!

Edit: also posting these to the BR game archive.

Cool! If you need any other pictures, let me know!

I noticed a very interesting difference in the playfields. It looks like Williams changed the size of the "lighting bolt" inserts (or routed the playfields a bit more). I was scratching my head for a bit trying to figure out why the cable guide spacing between mine looked so narrow compared to yours. It appears you have about an inch on either side while I had next to none. Yep, sure enough, they made the inserts (or routine holes) bigger at some point.

As it turns out mine is also dimpled for that cable guide, but it was never used. I also noticed other minor differences, but this one was the most interesting...

Dead center behind the wire bundle you see the cable guide.
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Then on mine ... a bit tight in there....
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Oh wow, that is odd. Is it involved to make changes to a playfield? Strange they would make playfield changes with less than 4K made.

Looks like they changed the routing on the larger "sword" inserts too. If you look at both the difference is obvious. I suspect now that the inserts didn't change, just the routing. Perhaps it added just a bit more room for incandescent lighting to shine through. A moot point sort of for LEDs now, but interesting nonetheless.

Anyone have problems with a their repro cannon plastic? I picked up a nib repro cannon and the flap doesn't sit properly when mounted on the axel rod, too far forwards and cocked off to the side enough that the flap doesn't move freely. Originally assumed that my rod was bent or something as I had a tough time getting it in but can't see anything wrong with it. Going to try to lathe a replacement tonight just in case...

Also the front end of the flaps seems to be designed slightly differently on the reproduction, the chamfer goes all the way across so you can't mix and match? quite annoying...

I just installed mine. I think the quality is a bit off, but my fit is ok. Maybe a bit of minor trimming to be perfect. I'm holding on to my original in case I want to go back.

Time to clean and install all the wiring. This is where things get gnarly...

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What bulb should go in the black 555/wedge sockets on the playfield and back Box?

Also, regarding the 44 sockets marked "R". Were these standard 44 bulbs with a red rubber, or did they get a red cylindrical sleeve?

Thanks in advance,

Brian

#906 according to the manual

Mine had red rubbers on the bulbs

Thanks. Do you have a page # reference for the manual? I have everything squared away on the pin, but would like to have the reference.

I actually just checked the 'operators handbook' (faster to scroll through) but it's in the solenoid table in both (page 4 of the handbook). The manual doesn't specifically have a diagram of the insert annoyingly, but you can trace the wiring for the black connectors back to the given solenoid numbers in the table

That makes sense. I think I'm good. Thanks again for the help.

Any one have a spare metal piece that catches the balls under the Davy Jones Locker and sends it to the canon?
Or a link to a new one?

I suspect the one in my friend's BR is not the correct piece as the balls remain trapped there between it and the playfield. Tried to add some spacers with no luck.

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That might be tough to find. I doubt it's sold NoS. I checked Marco for you, NG. I'd suggest looking for someone parting a BR out.

Share a picture of what your friend has. If there's a will there's a way to make it work. Might take a bit of modifying ... it's not a complex part.

Yeah I had the exact same problem. I had to put a lot of time trimming, heating, bending, and sanding to get mine just to fit decent. The repros are crap. I still have issues during game play when the ball rolls over the cannon area.

I'm seriously thinking of putting my original back in.

I'd have put mine back in, despite it being half worn away and horribly beaten, except the bottom half is actually broken in three pieces

Could anyone measure the resistance of their lower ramp coil? Mine's blowing that transistor (and fuse), and the coil measures 2.5ohms, which is less than I'd expect, but not so low that I'd expect it to blow..

So my white/violet string of GI isn not working. Fuse is good and connectors were replaced. What's next?

Trace the strands all the way out. You may have a break.

Ahoy there. I have weird one. I've posted this and had some help but I thought I'll post here in case this is BR specific. Long story short I get resets. Been through a lot of troubleshooting, 5v redone, reset fix daughterboard installed and still resetting, but what I recently had was a reset followed by a U6 checksum error. Has happened a couple times in 4 months or so. Resets happen everyday. What brought me to post here was that in searching I found a 10 year old thread not on pinside that had my exact problem. Resets happening when green targets hit, sometimes yellows but generally greens. Not everytime they're hit but resets always coincide with a solid hit on them. The old thread ended without a resolution. Has anyone else experienced this? Is it a BR thing or a coincidence with the WPC reset. So confused.

Is it isolated to one target, or any of the three green? Diodes check out ok? Does anything else on the same row or column in the switch matrix cause the issue as well?

Hard to tell if it's always the same target because it happens so fast. From when I've tried to observe closely it seems to be top and middle but it may be one target and when I think it was the other the ball could have hit both. It's so quick though. Hit ball, hit targets and then dark. Diodes test OK with my meter. I was told in another post diodes would have nothing to do with a reset so moved on. I have a pack of new ones. Should I just replace them all on the targets? Couldn't hurt, right? Only other resets are rarely from yellow targets. 9 out of 10 resets are when ball hits green. Tried manually hitting the targets and haven't been able to duplicate. During a game though happens never on a soft hit only a solid one or fast ricochet.

Can't hurt to replace diodes. I've had some weird problems fix themselves. Not resets though.

As for the yellow targets, maybe try disconnecting the green targets and seeing if it happens?

Take the glass off, start a game, bang on the targets until you get a reset, if at all. Sometimes it's the vibration that's possible shorting something else in the area that's causing your issue ... so yes, possibly has nothing to do with the targets or diodes.

Also, it can help if you go into the switch edge test to see if multiple switches record when you push on the individual targets. It is best to test out all the switches so we can see if it is related to a full row or column of switches. Usually multiple switch recording are because of a common broken wire or diodes between the switches.

Can someone snap a picture of how this harness routes around the Canon assembly?

I know the harness connects to the catapult but the two laydown light sockets is what I'm asking about. How does the wire route around the Canon to connect these two points?

Thanks in advance,

Brian

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Brian -

Let me know if you need more.

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Thank you, that was a great help!

Brian

I checked the continuity and everything checked good. But didn't work. Plugged and unplugged everything like 10 times, checked everything over and over and nothing. Then literally out of no where, everything worked!!

Now the only lights I have out are the coin door lights and I'm even more confused on those. Everything checks good, but still no lights.

I suspect you had a short somewhere ... and in all the plugging and unplugging you un-shorted whatever it was. Regarding the coin-doors, again I would suggest tracing the wires back and verifying voltages at the source.

Ahoy. Reporting back in regarding the resets after hitting targets I posted about a week ago. I replaced all the diodes on the green gun powder targets. Cut the wires back to re-strip, removed all the old solder so it was starting fresh. Put back together and in the few days since I've played 3 times. As before I usually play 30 - 45 mins at a time. In those three times no resets. I generally had at least one in that span of time before. Could it have been from diodes? Or bad solder joints that a good hit caused to act up? I'm not convinced what I did is the fix but would be nice. Just wondering from you more experienced with repairs if that could have fixed it or is it a coincidence. It's stressful playing and thinking any hit could do it. Got the Grand Champion on my machine and most ships sunk tonight and was tempted to let the ball drain when I got it to keep a reset from wiping it out. I went for it and completed the ball and got my name up. But was worried,

It seems very strange that that would fix a reset problem but then again it seems very strange that the stand ups could cause a reset in the first place without 50v somehow getting to them, which would probably do a lot more than just reset it...

Anyone have trouble with their broadside shot rejecting balls? Mine is devilishly hard to hit, seems to only work when you get the ball to hit one of the walls of the hole and not just go straight in. When I got mine it had a thick metal post screwed in behind the hole but it's not like anything I've seen before. I played a friend's today where the hole was way easier to hit, and he had a bit of foam behind the hole and no post, but I put different thicknesses of foam back there and it didn't seem to make any difference... Also wondered if it was the playfield slope (I have mine at 7 degrees) but I cranked the front legs down all the way and it didn't make a noticeable difference...

When I first got mine I could not get a ball to stay in there. I tweaked the gate a little as it seemed the ball would hit the back post and pop out before the gate got down to lock it. I reached in and bent it a little so the ball would still clear and the gate wouldn't go too high. Seemed to get back down quicker. It still pops out now and again but I can get it in with flippers and the cannon well enough. My post behind is there but looks like it's been beat up over the years and is a bit deformed.

I'm having trouble with mine since reassembling after a playfield restore. I did notice how the ball bounces off the habitrail in the back, and how the habitrail isn't quite centered. I'm planning to readjust, and if necessary putting target foam or an impact rubber back there.

I wonder if spring-loading the gate wire might help too.

Which way did you bend it? Towards the front if the machine?

The guy that I bought my BR from put some really thin foam tape on the broadside funnel and it helps a ton to keep the ball from rattling out. Havent had a problem yet.

Did he put it just in the back, or all the way around the funnel

All the way.

Hey what's up guys. Just tonight on a broadside shot the ball got stuck in there. It feels like there is mechanism under the ball that you can move around. When the machine is reset and it tries to pop the ball upwards it just hits it slightly a few times then stops. What could be my problem? Thanks for the help!

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Solved my problems, turns out that that gate is supposed to be a one way gate! The end of the wireform had snapped off of mine, so it just swung back and forth. No wonder the ball always came back out. Replaced it with the wireform from the shooter lane for now, but I'll need to find a replacement eventually before someone gets the back back in the shooter during multiball...

@valechippa6925 Check the resistance of the coil, and do a diode check on the legs of the transistor

What zacaj said -- also check the physical popper VUK mechanism. Lift the playfield and make sure no wires have come detached, make sure that the rubber ball holder is still attached to the solenoid plunger. The pin in mine has wiggled loose a bunch of times.

and of course, make sure the shaft moves freely if you do it by hand

Have any of you installed pinballbulbs.com's double spotlight kits in your game for added light? and if so where did you end up mounting them?

I just got a couple towers, and the flipper illumination kit. But there seems to be limited spots to mount the spotlights on this game....
Right now I've got one mounted to the right sling and I've installed the flipper strip. I was thinking of one up by the parrot, but there's no holes to feed the wires through the playfield up there.

Post some photos if you got 'em

Anyone know where I can get the chrome molding for the head above/below the speaker panel?

It appears to be a trim line versus the stuff you might see at an auto/detailer shop which is a bit thicker and rounded.