These numbers are pretty rough but should get you close and it doesn't hurt to order a few extra:

Playfield/GI:
50x #555
40x #44
6x #89 Flashers
6x #906 Flashers (the two swords, fire button, and Locker I went with the flexible LEDs because of the angle)

Backbox:
40x #555
8x #906 Flashers

Again, don't quote me on the numbers but that should get you pretty close. I'd buy from Comet and just get the 100 packs for $26 each to get started.

Planetary Pinball has them for sale, I bought a set today!
http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-31-1650-COMP&Store_Code=PP

Thanks for the link. I just ordered a set as well. They made no mention of it on the PPS forum.
Now if someone would just reproduce the ramps....

Yeah, I saw that. Zerbam informed me that his set was used to create the reproduction kit and that it would be available soon. When available, I'd happily paid an extra $20 for a NOS kit over reproductions.

Just curious but when you guys hit the whirlpool shot does the ball sometimes come off the end of the ramp before it returns to the left flipper. It only happens on mine when you hit the ball really hard.

Not when everything is adjusted properly

Yeah I am going to mess with it tonight and see if I can get it adjusted.

My cannon only goes as far left as the left ramp, not to the lock. Is there an adjustment?

Hey
Just bought a BR in really great shape. I made a friend custom paint all trims and legs just like old water wood (brownish with wood details in it. really unique)

However, am I the only one thinking the FIRE button is the ugliest thing in the world. An uncentered red rectangle. No details at all. it looks unfinished.

Somebody did something to make this better?
I have a spare FIRE silver plate from my previous AC/DC. I think I'll add it and change the original button for a translucid one with a led in it (plugged on the cannon insert when flashing)

Just added a double Spotlight with Purple frosted led to light the backboard. Also added a 35cm led strip in the whirlpool who flashes when the ball goes into in or back pop bumpers. I think it's a must and it's only a 10$ DIY

image.jpeg

Anyone have the BLACK ROSE (BALLY) MANUAL WPC SCHEMATIC in pdf? I have the owners manual of course from ipdb but I need the wiring schematics to work out a problem with non working flashers 18 / 20.

The schematics are in the 'English Manual' on ipdb

I just got a Black Rose today and have been playing it for the past hour and have found two issues with the cannon. First the cannon seems to be rotating too far left and not far enough to the right. Second issue and more important! When I am trying to Sink the Ship, I can fire the cannon any direction but straight. When I try and fire the ball straight it make the fire sound but the ball doesn't come out. Then Davey Jones Locker opens back up the cannon resets, the Locker door closes and I can try and fire the cannon again. It will fire any direction but straight, so I can't Sink the Ship...ever! Please help!

Ok. Fixed the rotating cannon issue. Solution: on the gear assembly there is a allen head set screw that secures the shaft that goes from the motor to the solenoid bracket, loosen it up and slightly rotate the assembly to the desired location then tighten the screw back up.

Picked up a Black Rose during Pinball Expo 2015. Totally satisfied with it. Not sure if it's staying in the collection forever but at least a couple years. IMG_0443.JPG

does anybody need a complete upper speaker panel (including speakers) for a black rose?
$45 plus shipping

Joined the club this weekend. I need to replace the cannon housing and ramp, replace some bulbs (led upgrade) and replace the GI connector. So far I'm enjoying the game.

Misfiring fixed! I found a bad repair made to the outhole switch wiring, repaired and cleaned the connector. I put the game in switch edge test and activated the switches until it wouldn't activate consecutively, slightly moving wires to find the short. A real pain!

My display is going, so I'm going to need to replace it. Has anyone replaced the display with a color display? Any thoughts? Thanks

I ordered and received a new cannon base and cover from BAA and I have never felt so disappointed in a product like this in a long while. It feels and looks like it was made with child's plastic printer. I'm sure it was supplied from planetary pinball. I'll take some pics here in a few.

Has anyone replaced the cannon base before?

Well, (a) first, it's a themoformed part exactly from a NOS original, (b) otherwise they would be NLA as to reproduce them with tooling or with the original tooling would require huge expense, (c) the part has a decal on it, (d) you did not even contact us to have any issue with it addressed - probably better to contact us with any displeasure so we can address, (e) if you were unhappy then you can return it, but all suppliers have the same source and that is it, (f) we've sold hundreds of these, and never had an issue we can recall.

So, again, it's a little better if you have an issue to address it with the source first. Pinball parts suppliers are not particularly motivated these days with the little volume for all of the specialty parts, and these cannon parts are so complicated there was no other viable way, and even so they were good parts - if one slipped thru which was an issue then you should contact us, the supplier.

[email protected]

Only real possibility would be to build an RGB LED display. That kind of build is still in the development phase, but a few people on here have done it.

Does anyone have the patched non ghosting rom that they could send me?

Email sent. Thanks for your reply

Would love to join the club if anyone knows of a black rose for sale.

mjpinballs has one for sale in Ohio. Good guy to purchase from. I have seen this machine and it's pretty nice. see the add in the market.

Did some healthy cleaning, new Titan rings, and comet LEDs. Came out somewhat like I was hoping. Now I just have to figure something out with the cannon and fix the back box GI.

image.jpeg

I have tried every adjustment I can think of with the cannon. I finally have it somewhat flush but I can't get the rotation to go side to side enough to hit at least both ramps. It really only goes as far over as the middle. Is there a secret to adjusting this?

Shopping my BR out right now. Should there be foam behind each of the spot targets? None of my show any sign of having ever had any.

I have had the opportunity to get BR a few times and I love the idea of it, the wire form down the middle puts me right off when I see it face to face. Q. If you own it for a while does the bad design bother you or does it add to the charm.

Bad design? Sounds like you are biased and don't belong here.

I don't believe that there originally was foam behind any of the targets, as my machine didn't have any when I got it. After I got my BR, I put foam behind them all. After having played it a lot, I'm going to remove the foam from behind the yellow targets and the white target on the right (by the coin) as I have found that the skill shot and most of the shots that hit these targets are often soft shots and will not always register. I plan to keep them on the red and green targets, however, as these tend to receive harder shots, especially the red targets. Just my $.02

My BR is also foamless. ^^

Hello btw, I joined the club a year ago. The machine is in overall good shape minus major cabinet fade. The red had been "touched up" with a sharpie by some previous owner.
Thinking about going LED at some point. Other than that, I'm currently working on a Pinsound mix.

I have a question on collecting SINK SHIP letters: Since multiball is quite essential in obtaining them and my Rose is a tough ball draining bitch most of the times (home of the 3 second multiball , I was wondering if there is a setting for a ball saver for during multiball. Couldn't find it in the service menu. Game running L-4 software. Thanks for any input on this guys!

No foam in mine either. I did buy foam to put behind the targets, so it's good to read gac's recommendation. I'll try that setup first. Thanks!

Can someone help me out with dimensions of the original link on the motor? Or know where I can source a new link. I think mine was home made and it's off a little and keeping the cannon from doing the correct rotations.

brcan.png

I've taken a picture from below the cannon and measured the width of the three links. Top one is 27mm, center 35mm and lower 26mm. Hope that helps.

Thank you for the picture. I think something is wrong with my motor unit. Like its out of alignment or something. The bottom bracket has a set screw and can rotate around just fine. The top is solid and I feel that's where the issue is. It's like it needs to be rotated a little more higher? So that it would go to the left more. This is how I bought the machine and it seems like the previous owner did repairs or made a few pieces. It's looking like I might try to grind the welds off, and try to add a set screw to the top bracket so I can try to get it back into the correct adjustment. It also seems like when the motor is running, it's loose on the circular mounting plate that goes to the levelers. The screws around it are all tight but it still seems to wiggle a bit.

image.jpeg

Can you measure the distance from the (assumed ) center of the welding spot to the center of the left hole on the top part? I believe this will most likely be different compared to the factory part. Once I'm home I'll take measurements myself.

br.png

Looks like center to center is 15mm. We ground of the welds and put a new set screw in it today. Going to try to get the adjustments correct and hopefully be in good shape. Will know here shortly

Mine is 12.5mm only.
I have rotated my motor to match yours. You can see how the center link in your setup reaches farther out left.

tmp_8396-IMG_20151217_16463219291965.jpg

Can someone take pictures of the davey jones locker assembly? I cannot get it to work no matter what i do.

Nevermind figured it out, after i broke a bushing grr.

Trying to fix some hacked GI plug issues. Can someone take pics of j120 and j121 for me please?

Ahoy,
Avast you scurry sea dogs. I just bought my first pinball machine lastnight. I was very fortunate to find a Black Rose, actually signed by John Trudeau! Huzzah!
I am looking forward to reading all of the clubs posts (when I am not trying to launch another broadside).
May the wind be forever in your sails.

FB_IMG_1451533352168_(resized).jpg

There you go.

IMG_20151231_132642975.jpg

Welcome aboard, greenman! Machine looks nice, I like the red painted sides on the backbox. ^^

Thanks! It's amazing I had any gi at all! Not one of mire wires was in the right spot. I'm starting to think this game I have is a complete basket case.

I purchased a new motor assembly and now that's working great. I'm about to out oem leveled in instead of the hacked home built ones the "vendor" "shopped" the game out with. Wish me luck

Welcome to the hobby, and great choice for a first pin. Can't go wrong with a Trudeau.

Not sure if this helps but the manual is wrong. Mine had some GI hooked up to high voltage causing ALL sorts of problems. See my thread from a few months ago.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/black-rose-flashers-18-20

All of my GI is working except for the right side of the back box and the coin door lights. Other than that everything is working ok. I replaced the male and female connectors on j121 and j120. I think I need to replace the male and femal j115 as well. There is a tiny burn mark on it and that could be causing the problem

I just started a quick "MAP" for LED'ing the machine. Wish there was a GI mapping as well. I just OCR'd this out of the manual - page 99. Should help you figure out what you want where and then easily total your order.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/17x_gxZKFwqB1kY32adpptEquJ_VOM3-SzTldB8wT5OE/edit?usp=sharing

Does anyone know if I can drop in LED flashers (plug and play) or does BR have a warm circuit for flashers?