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(Topic ID: 112697)

Black Rose Club: owners and fans welcome


By FlippinFantastic

5 years ago



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  • 167 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 days ago by zerbam
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There are 1448 posts in this topic. You are on page 29 of 29.
#1401 64 days ago

Bought this sight unseen off the net. She’s in better condition than I anticipated but still needs some TLC so I sent her in for a little makeover. Cliffy’s, LED conversion and replacing a few bits of trim etc. Luckily the cannon was brand new and working great but Davey Jones locker wasn’t operating properly. I can’t wait to get her back and relive my high school days. I used to cut class to go play street fighter and black rose at the local pizza joint

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#1402 64 days ago
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

...
What is the little black part you put the bulbs in called?
...

Think it's #24-8803 , Lamp socket - twist wedge large for #906 that you are after.

#1403 64 days ago

Should a ball coming down from the right past the upper flipper feed to the lower right flipper?
Mine hits the top of the right sling

Quoted from Mancave:

The spring was missing on mine and WOW, makes a big difference for such a teensie little spring
I also added some adhesive backed felt on either side of the broadside entrance whilst i had the PF forward. MUCH nicer!!
Thanks Lhyrgoif works a treat

How was it getting access to that area?

Update,

Here's another quirk of this Rosie, a couple owners back someone hacked a solution to the missing spring in an attempt to make the shot easier ....
I was worried at first but looking at photos of other Black Rose's there are two holes there. Just different post types. So it's not as if the owner had drilled an extra hole (even if the manual made it seem like they had).

Does anyone know the part number of that smaller thin post that is supposed to be where the white one is?

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#1404 63 days ago
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

How was it getting access to that area?

It's much easier having someone help lift the PF but it could be achieved by one person. If you have another person then pivot back the PF until it's almost vertical and you should be able to lift the PF up a little to get the pivot brackets off the pins either side (the brackets have a section cut out to facilitate this). Then all i have done in the past is just move the PF forward until the bottom of the cannon assembly is above the front support/lockdown bar bracket and rest it on there. The back of the PF doesn't drop into the cab on mine just sits on the wooden rails that are mid cab inside. Once that is done to access where the spring goes you will need to at least remove the 2 top screws that hold that metal shield on (has the 2 flashers attached to it). You will also need to remove the rear ramp channel trough (2 screws) and to make it easier i remove the broadside popper rail (2 screws at the back and 2 above the slings) With mine i removed the bracket that holds the gate to attach the spring but you could possibly do it without that step.

Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

Here's another quirk of this Rosie, a couple owners back someone hacked a solution to the missing spring in an attempt to make the shot easier ....

Okayyy so they've added an extra rail guide.... hhmmmmm and yeah the lower clear star post should be a metal post with a small round rubber on it, the type with the pointed top. Not sure about part no# off the top of my head, would have to look it up.

#1405 63 days ago
Quoted from Mancave:

It's much easier having someone help lift the PF but it could be achieved by one person. If you have another person then pivot back the PF until it's almost vertical and you should be able to lift the PF up a little to get the pivot brackets off the pins either side (the brackets have a section cut out to facilitate this). Then all i have done in the past is just move the PF forward until the bottom of the cannon assembly is above the front support/lockdown bar bracket and rest it on there. The back of the PF doesn't drop into the cab on mine just sits on the wooden rails that are mid cab inside. Once that is done to access where the spring goes you will need to at least remove the 2 top screws that hold that metal shield on (has the 2 flashers attached to it). You will also need to remove the rear ramp channel trough (2 screws) and to make it easier i remove the broadside popper rail (2 screws at the back and 2 above the slings) With mine i removed the bracket that holds the gate to attach the spring but you could possibly do it without that step.

Okayyy so they've added an extra rail guide.... hhmmmmm and yeah the lower clear star post should be a metal post with a small round rubber on it, the type with the pointed top. Not sure about part no# off the top of my head, would have to look it up.

I really appreciate that detailed description, I did look at how it comes off last night but thought if I get it off, where the hell can I sit it without damaging anything underneath.
So the bottom of the cannon is solid and fine to rest on the lockdown area?

I've got more issues now ‍♂️
Sometimes the Davy Jones locker ramp remains stuck in the up position.
The little solenoid that releases it seems to be working fine and keeps firing.
I have a feeling (and hoping) it's the spring on the main solenoid holding the ramp up.

From what I could tell the solenoid goes in reverse to what you'd think.... Ie the solenoid fires away from the playfield and the ramp raises using a mechanism rather than it pushing the ramp up like you'd assume.

I think the spring is under tension so when the little solenoid pushes the piece of metal that's locking the ramp up out of place the spring should do the rest?

I did take the spring off and stretched it slightly and reassembled the mech. A few tests and it appeared ok but then again it would sometimes work and then seemingly randomly stop working

#1406 63 days ago
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

I really appreciate that detailed description, I did look at how it comes off last night but thought if I get it off, where the hell can I sit it without damaging anything underneath.
So the bottom of the cannon is solid and fine to rest on the lockdown area?

I've got more issues now ‍♂️
Sometimes the Davy Jones locker ramp remains stuck in the up position.
The little solenoid that releases it seems to be working fine and keeps firing.
I have a feeling (and hoping) it's the spring on the main solenoid holding the ramp up.

From what I could tell the solenoid goes in reverse to what you'd think.... Ie the solenoid fires away from the playfield and the ramp raises using a mechanism rather than it pushing the ramp up like you'd assume.

I think the spring is under tension so when the little solenoid pushes the piece of metal that's locking the ramp up out of place the spring should do the rest?

I did take the spring off and stretched it slightly and reassembled the mech. A few tests and it appeared ok but then again it would sometimes work and then seemingly randomly stop working

Yeah i rest it on the round metal plate part of the assembly, about maybe the first 2cms worth?, if you bring the PF further forward than that it will be sitting on the bottom of the gearbox which probably isn't a good idea. I had issues with my Davy Jones locker for some time after i bought the machine. It will most likely be the down or ramp release part (small coil) that is causing the problem NOT the ramp up coil with the larger spring. I replaced the small metal lock plate that locks the ramp up (part 01-8390) and also the crank assembly arm (part A-14870) Even then it would sometimes get stuck in the up position. After stuffing with it many times i found that the main L shaped bracket that holds the down coil was bent at the back upright section, which in turn alters the angle of the lock plate and where it slots into the crank assembly arm. Even once i had it working it seemed to stuff up a few times for a while, just every now and then, but for the past 2 months or so it's been rock solid..... hope i haven't bloody jinxed mysef stating that here

So to be exact, the large coil pulls in which raises the ramp (activates the crank assembly arm and locks into place with the lock plate), the smaller coil just acts as a release and the long spring that is attached at the back of the guide rails and attached under the ramp helps to bring the ramp down once released. The issue i'm fairly sure is like what i had, in the release and drop.

#1407 63 days ago
Quoted from Mancave:

Yeah i rest it on the round metal plate part of the assembly, about maybe the first 2cms worth?, if you bring the PF further forward than that it will be sitting on the bottom of the gearbox which probably isn't a good idea. I had issues with my Davy Jones locker for some time after i bought the machine. It will most likely be the down or ramp release part (small coil) that is causing the problem NOT the ramp up coil with the larger spring. I replaced the small metal lock plate that locks the ramp up (part 01-8390) and also the crank assembly arm (part A-14870) Even then it would sometimes get stuck in the up position. After stuffing with it many times i found that the main L shaped bracket that holds the down coil was bent at the back upright section, which in turn alters the angle of the lock plate and where it slots into the crank assembly arm. Even once i had it working it seemed to stuff up a few times for a while, just every now and then, but for the past 2 months or so it's been rock solid..... hope i haven't bloody jinxed mysef stating that here
So to be exact, the large coil pulls in which raises the ramp (activates the crank assembly arm and locks into place with the lock plate), the smaller coil just acts as a release and the long spring that is attached at the back of the guide rails and attached under the ramp helps to bring the ramp down once released. The issue i'm fairly sure is like what i had, in the release and drop.

It's odd it was working well for a couple hours and now is really unreliable.
The little coil just keeps firing while the 'lift crank assembly' doesn't move.
I thought the spring might be the issue as its not pushing on the crank ready for the little coil to release it. But even after when trying it manually with your fingers there's some resistance. So maybe something else is a miss like a bent arm.

I'll struggle to explain this but the way the part of the coil pushes onto the arm, its like an elbow and it's almost like it locks. Like it isn't pushing it in the right way.

And typical that crank arm is only available at the same place I ordered the torsion spring from.
If only I had known a couple days ago!

#1408 62 days ago
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

And typical that crank arm is only available at the same place I ordered the torsion spring from.
If only I had known a couple days ago!

You might not need to replace it though. Unscrew the assembly that holds the the small coil from the bottom of the PF and have a look at the back of the bracket. It's like an L piece and there is another flat bit of metal on top that's sort of hinged (for want of a better term), this piece is what the coil pulls down to release the ramp and it has the little lock plate screwed to the end of it. My bracket was bent at the back part of the L (the upright part) and bent inwards which in turn altered the angle at where the lock plate engages with the slot in the crank arm. I straightened that part of the bracket up and had better results although as mentioned i had to stuff around with it a bit to get it sorted. I would also check that the front edge of the ramp isn't fouling on the side rail and that the large spring that adds the tension to the underneath of the ramp is clear as well. It's a tricky bloody mech and i must admit out of all the machines i've worked on that up and down ramp and also the cannon assembly is about my least favs when it comes to design.

#1409 61 days ago
Quoted from Mancave:

You might not need to replace it though. Unscrew the assembly that holds the the small coil from the bottom of the PF and have a look at the back of the bracket. It's like an L piece and there is another flat bit of metal on top that's sort of hinged (for want of a better term), this piece is what the coil pulls down to release the ramp and it has the little lock plate screwed to the end of it. My bracket was bent at the back part of the L (the upright part) and bent inwards which in turn altered the angle at where the lock plate engages with the slot in the crank arm. I straightened that part of the bracket up and had better results although as mentioned i had to stuff around with it a bit to get it sorted. I would also check that the front edge of the ramp isn't fouling on the side rail and that the large spring that adds the tension to the underneath of the ramp is clear as well. It's a tricky bloody mech and i must admit out of all the machines i've worked on that up and down ramp and also the cannon assembly is about my least favs when it comes to design.

I took the part holding the solenoid out, (like I had many times trying to fix it) and fiddled about and reattached it.
There were two sets of screw holes, one giving it more leverage.

I played it a lot yesterday and it didn't stay up once (that i could notice, still skeptical as I'm sure I tried moving it before).

Again, hard to explain mechanically and I don't really know what I did different that time.
I'll have to get pics next time I have the playfield up.

On another topic, the ball often falls off the whirlpool wireframe, I've tried bending the last side part up and away and still had it happen... Is that just part of Rosie?

Game is currently set on about 7 degrees incline, does steeper mean harder with Rosie?

And another subject, mine had been upgraded with LEDs, but the previous owner missed a few locations.
The GI is cool white in some places and warm in others (mainly where the old bulbs remain like flanking the left ramp under the plastics).

I'm feeling Rosie would look better with warm white GI, anyone have that opinion or thoughts?

#1410 59 days ago

Here's an odd one.

Yesterday Black Rose was on, I didn't play any games but I was playing Road Show next to it. In the corner of my eye i saw "coin door open use buttons" (or similar), then it went away.

I turned Rosie off at some point and then when I turned her back on I got the check fuses message.

I'm a new pin owner (don't own a multimeter yet but ones on the way), I checked the fuses and they looked ok to the naked eye.
I fiddled about here and there but eventually gave up as the circuit board part of pin ownership is beyond me at the moment. I did look up guides, and noted LED1 was out but due to not having a multimeter yet I couldn't go further.

I messaged my pal who works on pins and he said it could be my bridge rectifier, so this morning I ordered one along with other odds and sods.

I turned it on this morning out of curiosity and it booted up fine
Any idea what is going on?

And secondly even if I open the coin door I don't get a message about it being open‍♂️

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#1411 59 days ago
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

On another topic, the ball often falls off the whirlpool wireframe, I've tried bending the last side part up and away and still had it happen... Is that just part of Rosie?

Mine does that too depending on the speed of the ball but i have one of the cross members busted off from the wireform (the one closest to the whirlpool entrance) so i'm guessing that's why mine does that.

F114 fuse is the 18V Lamp Matrix and F115 is the 12V Switch Matrix both of which if blown you would definitely know, especially the 12V Switch Matrix. Fuses can sometimes look ok but can still be knackered and it's best to test them off the machine with a DMM.
I'm not sure about the bridge rectifier but if those fuses were blown the machine might not be playable although it would still boot up i'm thinking. I just checked my machine and i don't get the coin door open message either but i know the machine is fully working so maybe my switch behind the door isn't working?? not sure, it was like that when i got the machine. I think on my Fish Tales it gives the message but more to the point it cuts the high power to the flipper coils usually, that's what it's designed into the system for.
Sometimes machines can play up due to faulty ribbon cables also, and give weird, seemingly random messages like fuse warnings and such. I've had that happen before on other pins and for Black Rose sometimes i have to reseat the ribbon cable to the display as it occasionally gets lines across it. Try reseating all the ribbon cables on all the boards BUT make sure when you reattach them that all the pins are back in the holes in the connector correctly. It can be quite easy to reattach the connector and be one row of pins over.

#1412 58 days ago

A gameplay question,
What dictates the value of the jackpot? In attract mode mine shows just over 8 million, but in one game it gave me 18mil (if i remember correctly).

Quoted from Mancave:

Mine does that too depending on the speed of the ball but i have one of the cross members busted off from the wireform (the one closest to the whirlpool entrance) so i'm guessing that's why mine does that.
F114 fuse is the 18V Lamp Matrix and F115 is the 12V Switch Matrix both of which if blown you would definitely know, especially the 12V Switch Matrix. Fuses can sometimes look ok but can still be knackered and it's best to test them off the machine with a DMM.
I'm not sure about the bridge rectifier but if those fuses were blown the machine might not be playable although it would still boot up i'm thinking. I just checked my machine and i don't get the coin door open message either but i know the machine is fully working so maybe my switch behind the door isn't working?? not sure, it was like that when i got the machine. I think on my Fish Tales it gives the message but more to the point it cuts the high power to the flipper coils usually, that's what it's designed into the system for.
Sometimes machines can play up due to faulty ribbon cables also, and give weird, seemingly random messages like fuse warnings and such. I've had that happen before on other pins and for Black Rose sometimes i have to reseat the ribbon cable to the display as it occasionally gets lines across it. Try reseating all the ribbon cables on all the boards BUT make sure when you reattach them that all the pins are back in the holes in the connector correctly. It can be quite easy to reattach the connector and be one row of pins over.

My friend said it could be a sign of the BR dying.
I did fiddle with connectors and fuses trying to get it working but it didn't get me anywhere so it's odd it worked the next day.

I guess Rosie doesn't have a high power cut off with the coin door then. But has that message as if it does.
Unless mine and yours isn't wired up!

#1413 58 days ago

Dave
The jackpot builds during game play, and on mine, it remembers the build into the next game. I haven’t looked, but I suspect that the operator can control that.

#1414 54 days ago

Would really appreciate some help here,

The "Check Fuses F114 and F115" returned.
I got a replacement Bridge rectifier and a friend fitted it. The multimeter readings show its working but also that BR2 is not working either.

I wish I'd bought two bridge rectifiers now. (i have a second on order)

But still this morning the pin turned on ok, but within minutes the "coin door open use buttons" message appeared then a few seconds later "SLAM TILT". The pin remained in attract mode but no buttons would work.

Is this likely to be because of the other bridge rectifier?
I have my own multimeter now so is there anything i should check?

#1415 54 days ago

I was having problems with the left flipper on BR. Sometimes it was fine but would get weak during the game or the flipper would drop while the button was still pushed. I suspected it might be the flipper opto board, so I switched the left & right boards and the problem followed the original left board. The part is A-15894 Flipper Opto Board Type 1. Type 1 goes in games with more than 2 flippers.

1 week later
#1416 45 days ago

Hello guys! Anyone have stripped out a machine and can do me high quality photos from Black Rose's Playfield's all area? I need for a project.
Thank you

1 week later
#1417 35 days ago

Designed a shooter rod for the Rose
Cast from a silicone mold using 2 part liquid plastic resin, hand painted and a couple of coats of clear lacquer over the top to finish with.
Pleased with the result!!

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#1418 35 days ago

Thats really cool! Liquid plastic huh? I never thought about that. Im going to try that myself. Let us know how it holds up.

#1419 35 days ago

I wonder if this Instamorph moldable plastic would work?

#1420 35 days ago
Quoted from Viggin900:

Thats really cool! Liquid plastic huh? I never thought about that. Im going to try that myself. Let us know how it holds up

It's very tough i can vouch for that!! I've had an "Eddie" shooter rod on my Iron Maiden for nearly 2 years (also made that one myself) and there's no worries with wear at all.
I use Smooth Cast 300 for all the molded mods i make and never had any issues with the finished products. You can have stuff ups if you don't adhere to the temperature range advice and the 2 parts do need to be used up reasonably quickly once opened, they don't have a massive shelf life.
I've not heard of the Instamorph type myself but there's a heap of different brands and types of plastic resins on the market.
I did have 5 of these pirate heads for sale...down to the last 1 within 2 hours
I'm gonna have to do some more it seems!!

#1421 31 days ago

So my spring came!

There was a silly mod to make the broadside shot easier which isn't needed anymore.

So I've tried to put the posts as they should be.

But the thin metal post (in middle of the picture) won't stay in... I may have ordered the wrong one, or the way the previous owners had it meant the hole has been stripped?

Could someone tell me if it is a wood screw post, or one with a nut, or a t nut one?
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#1422 31 days ago
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

Could someone tell me if it is a wood screw post, or one with a nut, or a t nut one?

From memory alone i think it's a wood screw post but if the hole has been stripped out too much then swap to the longer post with the nut thread. Sorry it's 1.30am and i've had a 'few' bourbons so can't supply a part reference off the top of the bonce

#1423 31 days ago
Quoted from Mancave:

From memory alone i think it's a wood screw post but if the hole has been stripped out too much then swap to the longer post with the nut thread. Sorry it's 1.30am and i've had a 'few' bourbons so can't supply a part reference off the top of the bonce

It's definitely a wood screw post. But this is a good idea regardless - those posts eventually weaken anyway from ball impacts; the through-posts with the nut on bottom are far stronger.

#1424 31 days ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

It's definitely a wood screw post. But this is a good idea regardless - those posts eventually weaken anyway from ball impacts; the through-posts with the nut on bottom are far stronger.

The one I bought must be for a T nut as it reaches the bottom of the playfield but doesn't poke out.
I can't seem to find a post that's for a nut underneath.. Any ideas of the part number?

#1425 30 days ago

Still looking for good quality pictures / scan from Black Rose Playfield's all area. So if any of you doing a reparation or fixing and stripped out the machine please do good shots/scans for us (Visual Pinball community).
Thank you!

#1426 28 days ago

My Rosie has horrible cold GI leds.

I think she looked better with the incandescents (a few were left in).

I was thinking, would Comet Warm whites work? And are the GI bulbs all the same type?

A list would be good

Also,
In front of the left ramp there was a half moon shaped piece of mylar. The ramp flap was under it and I had to remove it to get the ramp out.

It came off easy except the tip or the sword insert/inlay which came with it. So I cut the mylar around that and stuck a small rectangle to hold that other small bit in place (i didn't know what else to do!)

It's not too bad, and probably better than the big bit of mylar that had fingerprint marks under it!

But what are my options if I want to remove it? How do I replace what is stuck to the mylar?

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#1427 26 days ago

Noone have a list of GI bulbs?

I have red ones in some places, for example one red and one white under each slingshot plastic... Is that how it's meant to be?

#1428 26 days ago
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

Noone have a list of GI bulbs?
I have red ones in some places, for example one red and one white under each slingshot plastic... Is that how it's meant to be?

The manual list some GI as red if I recall, have you checked there?

Some should be red, that I'm sure of.

#1429 26 days ago
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

The manual list some GI as red if I recall, have you checked there?
Some should be red, that I'm sure of.

Yeah I remember reading that there's reds and they're labeled with R on playfield.

No list in manual that i can see.

On the red GI circuit the one on the left in the picture lights up and is blue. Should that be in the right socket and a red in its place?

Can't get both lights in the same photo. There are two next to each other, both GI, one closest to the back is blue and the one closest to the whirlpool ramp is white

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#1430 26 days ago
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

Noone have a list of GI bulbs?

I have red ones in some places, for example one red and one white under each slingshot plastic... Is that how it's meant to be?

Yes, that is meant to be like that. Black Rose and Party Zone both have modes that use the red lamps only. Sets the mood of the mode.

#1431 26 days ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

Yes, that is meant to be like that. Black Rose and Party Zone both have modes that use the red lamps only. Sets the mood of the mode.

But one blue one when the reds are lit?. I tried to look for a R next to it but couldn't see.

#1432 26 days ago
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

But one blue one when the reds are lit?. I tried to look for a R next to it but couldn't see.

These 2 games have a regular GI and red GI. No blue bulbs. If some blue are installed in the GI, that is not original. Likely a blue LED was put there because a white LED at the the angle in that spot from the player's prospective may be burning eyes.

#1433 26 days ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

These 2 games have a regular GI and red GI. No blue bulbs. If some blue are installed in the GI, that is not original. Likely a blue LED was put there because a white LED at the the angle in that spot from the player's prospective may be burning eyes.

It's next to white. I assume it was to match the pops.
So the white can stay and I'll replace the blue with a red.

It was already upgraded to LEDs by the previous owner, they missed a few though.
I'm thinking of leaving all the colours but redoing the GI.
The white is far too cold. I think warm white would work better for Black Rose?

1 week later
#1434 16 days ago

The ball flies off my Whirlpool wireform,
I've tried bending the end of the wireform multiple ways and it still flies off.

I recorded a slow mo video and it's like the ball bounces before the turn.

Any ideas? Maybe it's going too fast?

#1435 16 days ago
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

The ball flies off my Whirlpool wireform,
I've tried bending the end of the wireform multiple ways and it still flies off.
I recorded a slow mo video and it's like the ball bounces before the turn.
Any ideas? Maybe it's going too fast?

A picture of your whirlpool + wireform, including a mark where the ball falls off would help us help you

#1436 16 days ago
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

It's next to white. I assume it was to match the pops.
So the white can stay and I'll replace the blue with a red.
It was already upgraded to LEDs by the previous owner, they missed a few though.
I'm thinking of leaving all the colours but redoing the GI.
The white is far too cold. I think warm white would work better for Black Rose?

When you leveled the machine did you level from playfield or from on top of the glass? Are the spot welds broken on the wire form?

#1437 16 days ago
Quoted from nitrojcrawf:

When you leveled the machine did you level from playfield or from on top of the glass? Are the spot welds broken on the wire form?

I used the phone app on the playfield. I've tried it at 6.5 and 7.0. The bubble indicates the app is correct

Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

A picture of your whirlpool + wireform, including a mark where the ball falls off would help us help you

Will try get pictures tomorrow.
The last of the corner parts weld is detached.

Four different slow mo videos if it helps

#1438 16 days ago
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

I used the phone app on the playfield. I've tried it at 6.5 and 7.0. The bubble indicates the app is correct

Will try get pictures tomorrow.
The last of the corner parts weld is detached.
Four different slow mo videos if it helps

Looking by the video the ball goes up on the side of the wireform and then take-off... Perhaps it's enough to bend the wireform side inwards, closer to the desired ball-path, i.e. make the "wall" a bit steeper to keep the ball on the wireform.

#1439 16 days ago
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

Looking by the video the ball goes up on the side of the wireform and then take-off... Perhaps it's enough to bend the wireform side inwards, closer to the desired ball-path, i.e. make the "wall" a bit steeper to keep the ball on the wireform.

I tried that at the end but had the same result. Do you mean try bend the entire length of the upright bits?

#1440 16 days ago
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

I tried that at the end but had the same result. Do you mean try bend the entire length of the upright bits?

Maybe not the whole "wall" but definitely more than just the last part of it, as the ball has already "climbed up" on the wall by time it reaches the end. I'd say bend half of it to keep it on the rails. This is just a guess ofc and I cant guarantee anything.

Are there any visible marks of earlier bending or physical abuse of the wireform? Was wondering how it could have gotten bent in the first place.

#1441 15 days ago
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

Maybe not the whole "wall" but definitely more than just the last part of it, as the ball has already "climbed up" on the wall by time it reaches the end. I'd say bend half of it to keep it on the rails. This is just a guess ofc and I cant guarantee anything.
Are there any visible marks of earlier bending or physical abuse of the wireform? Was wondering how it could have gotten bent in the first place.

You can see its not welded together and broke at some point.
I've got it as pictured now and the ball hasn't flown off yet!
I swear I had it like this before... Pinball is weird

Another topic, my canon stopped turning yesterday. It seems the disc was seizing against the levellers. I managed to solve it but it jerks in motion when near the centre.
What is the lubricant used on the disc? Mine has some but it's wearing thin

Unless it's not supposed to have any!

20201015_124549 (resized).jpg
1 week later
#1442 8 days ago

Cleaning up the pinball parts and have a brand new lower cannon body shell, also a usable gently used one plus brand new Cliffy cannon protector anyone in need PM me please

#1443 8 days ago
Quoted from transprtr4u:

Cleaning up the pinball parts and have a brand new lower cannon body shell, also a usable gently used one plus brand new Cliffy cannon protector anyone in need PM me please

Looking for center cannon wire form if someone has a spare. If you do, i am also looking into having it made. Simple form, could be a cheap replacement in the $40 range.
Thanks

#1444 8 days ago

Updated
One used cannon body complete
One new
Cannon body decal
Cannon body dooR new
Operators book
Cliffy cannon protector new

1603383008867725137661410544273 (resized).jpg
#1445 7 days ago
Quoted from transprtr4u:

Updated
One used cannon body complete
One new
Cannon body decal
Cannon body dooR new
Operators book
Cliffy cannon protector new
[quoted image]

Never seen that operators handbook, what’s in it?

#1446 7 days ago
Quoted from dudah:

operators handbook

Mini version of manual

#1447 6 days ago
Quoted from rpageler:

I posted my first Pinsound file in the pinsound community under black rose. Used music from the other updates with a couple new songs but i added better explosions, other sound effects, etc. Not final yet but i think it's off to a good start. Please send me or post any feedback.

Curious to hear feedback from any pinsound users that loaded the soundtrack i posted on pinsound:

http://pinsound-community.org/forum/index.php?/files/file/319-black-rose-remix-with-new-sound-effects-and-pirate-music/

Just want to make sure i have volumes correct, no issues, etc. I strongly recommend adding a powered sub which makes the new cannon shots and explosions very nice. I'm going to begin working on version 2 and replacing additional sound effects and adding additional songs; but before going forward wanted to hear any ideas or feedback (almost 60 downloads so there are some of you out there). Feel free to PM me direct if you prefer. Thanks!

#1448 3 days ago

does any one happen to have a unbroken plastic for the ball lock area ?

blackroseplastics-228x228 (resized).jpg
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