(Topic ID: 112697)

Black Rose Club: owners and fans welcome


By FlippinFantastic

5 years ago



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  • 1,301 posts
  • 157 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 11 days ago by Mikonos
  • Topic is favorited by 73 Pinsiders

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There are 1301 posts in this topic. You are on page 26 of 27.
#1251 84 days ago

I pulled my cannon assembly off again today to get a better look at whether it's possible to align the adjustment rods in a more favourable position. The short answer is i don't think it's gonna be possible The first pic shows the ring location as it is normally and the the 2nd pic shows it rotated to the left so that the top two are parallel with the PF. As you can see the bottom rod isn't centered like this so it would still adjust more biased to the left hand side at the front of the cannon. If it was centered (like i was hoping to achieve) then you would think it should adjust evenly. Pic 4 is basically the same as Pic 2 just that the off centered rod is biased to the right hand side. Pic 3 is rotated to the point that the 'tripod' of the rods is virtually close enough to where it would adjust a lot better BUT then the shite hits the fan with the loading of the cannon i would presume. In Pic 5 you can see the ring has 3 plastic 'studs' on the inside, i'm not sure exactly what these studs do to be honest. I think the main issue is the ridges of plastic on the rod side as i presume that's where the ball comes into the cannon, particularly between the higher portions of the ridges. If you rotate the ring to get a more favourable adjustment position then the gap for the ball load is in the wrong spot. Looks like it's just not going to be able to be moved, unless you could possibly create a new ring?? BIG call i know
Thoughts everyone?
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#1252 81 days ago

Has anyone changed the look of their fire button or added a stern style button instead?

#1253 81 days ago

mancave thank you for doing so much research! Too bad there is no possibility to get the cannon flat...

#1254 79 days ago
Quoted from Axl:

thank you for doing so much research! Too bad there is no possibility to get the cannon flat

It was worth looking into but i guess i always realised it would be like trying to reinvent the wheel
My bro inspected the mech while i had it off the machine and he's quite handy with metal work so he was able to give me some hope. As he pointed out to me, the only way it could be achieved he thought would be to create a new mount ring with an extra adjustment rod, so basically creating a square of the rods instead of a 'tripod'. Where the rods screw through the motor/gearbox mount plate is easily changeable as those holes aren't threaded. The only part that can really foul on the rods is the switch that sticks forward from the catapult arm, the back of the assembly that moves is inside the rod arc. I'm still not sure what those small plastic tabs do as they don't seem to be a guide or a stop for the cannon body (perhaps i'm just overlooking something there) Someone who is good at machining could potentially design a new mounting ring that has the extra adjustment rod and also still has the ball loading gap in the right spot. The extra drawback is that a new adjustment rod and adjuster/guide would also have to be made as i don't think those parts are available anywhere. It's definitely a possibility but most likely would be a once off kind of thing. Creating it as a Mod would be costly and let's face it, to get it to work would require a prototype and then potentially a fair amount of alterations to get it right. All that said i've never been a fan of saying things can NEVER be done

#1255 79 days ago
Quoted from dmeca12:

Has anyone changed the look of their fire button or added a stern style button instead?

If I had a correct lockdown bar I might consider it... so until I find one...

#1256 78 days ago
Quoted from pocketscience:

If I had a correct lockdown bar I might consider it... so until I find one

I think it would be possible to change a regular lockdown bar by carefully marking the position of the rectangular gap and even more carefully cutting out with a dremel tool cutting wheel. I don't think it would be necessary to have the 2 small locating holes that are in the original (for the 2 round tabs of the button to locate in) as once the button is screwed on reasonably tight you shouldn't get much movement.

Added 72 days ago:

Ok, scratch the 'rectangular gap' part...it's just a round hole with 2 locator cutouts for the tabs on the underneath of the button. I've converted an after market lock down bar (the ones that have been epoxied together) but still need to polish it up all nice and shiny later today. Pics to follow

1 week later
#1257 70 days ago
Quoted from pocketscience:

If I had a correct lockdown bar I might consider it... so until I find one

It's easier to make one than i was originally thinking as the hole for the button is round and there is already an existing hole in the back plate that is the correct sizing and in the correct spot. Just drill to the same diameter as the back holes, preferably with a bench drill and then use a small rounded file to slot the holes top and bottom for the button locator lugs. I was slightly off centre with my file hole on one side but there's plenty of wriggle room for the button to mount level. As you can see by the first pic the originals only have the locator holes through the metal sheet that is the main body and not through the back plate of metal. On the new lock down bar i just filed through both and that's absolutely no worries at all. I will note that my machine doesn't have the membrane switch as it had been replaced by someone else with a standard contact switch. Having said that the new lock down bar has the button in the same spot so i don't think there will be any issues with a machine that has the proper membrane switch mounted. If you don't want to make your own i would sell the original but it's about 70% good condition i reckon.
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#1258 70 days ago

I started to restore all "Black Rose Pinball Aprons". My idea is, when I finsihed this restoration, customize then with golden vinyl details. It is an idea I driven here and results were awesome:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-lord-of-the-rings-pinball-custom-aprons-stern-in-develop-1#post-4826089

Well, here I go:

"Black Rose Left Pinball Apron" (BALLY) restored by Zona Arcade & Mikonos.
[https://www.zonaarcade.com/fotos/capturas/Black%20Rose%20Left%20Pinball%20Apron.%20Restored%20Mikonos1.jpg
Black Rose Left Pinball Apron. Restored Mikonos1.jpg

Regards

#1259 65 days ago
Quoted from Mancave:

It's easier to make one than i was originally thinking as the hole for the button is round and there is already an existing hole in the back plate that is the correct sizing and in the correct spot.

Damn, wish I'd seen your post earlier. I had access to my BR yesterday and could've grabbed the standard LDB to mod it. That ship has sailed for a few weeks now unfortunately. Oh well, it'll still be there when all this craziness is behind us. Thanks for the info though - much appreciated!

#1260 64 days ago

Another apron finsihed:

"Black Rose Right Pinball Apron" (BALLY) restored by Zona Arcade & Mikonos.
https://www.zonaarcade.com/fotos/capturas/Black%20Rose%20Right%20Pinball%20Apron.%20Restored%20Mikonos1.jpg
Black Rose Right Pinball Apron. Restored Mikonos1.jpg

*I take bigger screenshots and photos, for avoid blur effect of pinside´s miniatures, click to enlarge images (and click again on display image mode if it is necessary).

#1261 63 days ago

Anyone know what the part number is for the 7 position (1 Key) IDC connectors that go on the flipper opto boards? thought i ordered the right one's but it was the larger size.

1 week later
#1262 54 days ago

Hi all, hoping you guys can confirm something for me. After looking at some pics of the boards in BR I think I may have some connectors plugged in the wrong spots. This is how I received the game so just looking for 2nd opinion, The link below shows pics earlier posted in this thread that I was looking at and my pictures have the areas of concern circled in RED ink. The one in blue ink is obviously a mess but I think maybe someone put in a different power supply b/c thats all hacked too. If anyone could confirm if mine is not correct or if it is ok to run that would be great. The reason I was looking into this to begin with was because I keep blowing a G.I fuse and when in test mode I am getting some cross-over between sections of the G.I. I shouldn't. Let me know if I need to get better pictures.

Link to earlier post: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/black-rose-club-owners-and-fans-welcome/page/24#post-5407473

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#1263 54 days ago
Quoted from GraniteStatePin:

all, hoping you guys can confirm something for me. After looking at some pics

Do you have the manual? It shows where the connectors go & the correct wire colors.

#1264 54 days ago

I do! Wow i'm an idiot. Yup, theyr're wrong!

In other news, Has anyone tried a playfield protector for this title? If so would you recommend it? Does it fit tight around the cannon circle? Help with the transition from cannon to pf to smooth it out? Any info would be great. Thanks

#1265 52 days ago
Quoted from GraniteStatePin:

Has anyone tried a playfield protector for this title?

Cliffy makes a protector that goes around the front of the cannon. I don't have it because I have not had any canon ware, however I have Cliffy protectors on many of my games and they work very well.

#1266 52 days ago
Quoted from GraniteStatePin:

I do! Wow i'm an idiot. Yup, theyr're wrong!
In other news, Has anyone tried a playfield protector for this title? If so would you recommend it? Does it fit tight around the cannon circle? Help with the transition from cannon to pf to smooth it out? Any info would be great. Thanks

I just put a clear playfield protector on mine. I was still a little worried about the cannon/playfield transition, especially since the wood "tapered" a little due to wear in the usual spot. I put a metal cliffy down on top of the clear playfield to protect the edge of the clear protector. After raising the cannon a little, I'm pretty happy with the result.

#1267 51 days ago

Another finished!

"Black Rose Shooter Pinball Apron" (BALLY) restored by Zona Arcade & Mikonos.
https://www.zonaarcade.com/fotos/capturas/Black%20Rose%20Shooter%20Pinball%20Apron.%20Restored%20Mikonos1.jpg
Black Rose Shooter Pinball Apron. Restored Mikonos1.jpg
*I take bigger screenshots and photos, for avoid blur effect of pinside´s miniatures, click to enlarge images (and click again on display image mode if it is necessary).

#1268 51 days ago

Thanks for the replies guys, and OTR I've actually got a Cliffy already!

#1269 51 days ago
Quoted from Mikonos:

Another finished!
"Black Rose Shooter Pinball Apron" (BALLY) restored by Zona Arcade & Mikonos.
https://www.zonaarcade.com/fotos/capturas/Black%20Rose%20Shooter%20Pinball%20Apron.%20Restored%20Mikonos1.jpg
[quoted image]
*I take bigger screenshots and photos, for avoid blur effect of pinside´s miniatures, click to enlarge images (and click again on display image mode if it is necessary).

I don't get it. How is this any different than the ones for sale on Planetary?
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#1270 48 days ago

So I need some clarification here... Been sorting out my connectors on my boards (there were a few in the wrong spot from when I picked it up) and I sorted those but along the way I've noticed some things seem out of place and don't know if the manual made a mistake or if these are also wrong?

I referenced an earlier post in this thread for board pics to compare: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/black-rose-club-owners-and-fans-welcome/page/24#post-5407473

First up is this connector that was in J124 on my game and in the referenced game pics but the manual says J124 is NOT used. On my board and the referenced one J132 was empty but the manual calls for it and the wire colors/order match!?

Next is J104, on mine and referenced both have a connector plugged in but manual says NOT used and on both directly below in J105 its empty but manual calls for it and wire colors/order match!?

Next for J115, my connector is kind of hacked but colors seem to match (all yellow or yellow/white) although the one in the referenced picture has a bunch of different colors? Is mine correct?

The on the CPU board mine and the referenced have a connector in J207 and J209 which the manual says NOT used and then J206 and J208 which the manual calls for are empty on both but the wire color/order match!??

Can a few people please check their boards and see what is going on here? Are yours plugged in similar and the manual is wrong? Any help is much appreciated!

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#1271 48 days ago

Take a close look at the schematics for the board. I’m going by memory, but I think some of those unused connectors are in parallel with the connectors that are used.

#1272 48 days ago

switch/lamp matrix row/column connectors are all paralleled

#1273 48 days ago
Quoted from GraniteStatePin:

So I need some clarification here... Been sorting out my connectors on my boards (there were a few in the wrong spot from when I picked it up) and I sorted those but along the way I've noticed some things seem out of place and don't know if the manual made a mistake or if these are also wrong?
I referenced an earlier post in this thread for board pics to compare: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/black-rose-club-owners-and-fans-welcome/page/24#post-5407473
First up is this connector that was in J124 on my game and in the referenced game pics but the manual says J124 is NOT used. On my board and the referenced one J132 was empty but the manual calls for it and the wire colors/order match!?
Next is J104, on mine and referenced both have a connector plugged in but manual says NOT used and on both directly below in J105 its empty but manual calls for it and wire colors/order match!?
Next for J115, my connector is kind of hacked but colors seem to match (all yellow or yellow/white) although the one in the referenced picture has a bunch of different colors? Is mine correct?
The on the CPU board mine and the referenced have a connector in J207 and J209 which the manual says NOT used and then J206 and J208 which the manual calls for are empty on both but the wire color/order match!??
Can a few people please check their boards and see what is going on here? Are yours plugged in similar and the manual is wrong? Any help is much appreciated![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

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#1274 47 days ago
Quoted from EStroh:

I don't get it. How is this any different than the ones for sale on Planetary?
[quoted image]

Hi EStroh!

Yes, the image you posted is so tiny. Is difficult to see quality of this artwork set. In my screenshots you can see a lot of details of this restoration. I will listed for you some characteristics of this work by me:

1) I worked with HD scaned files, not photos (I always work with scans because I look for accuracy every time).
2) I restored scan files, not vectorized them, in this way I did not lost original artist/author´s handmade. I only use vectors if there is no way.
3) You don´t know my work, but it is the most precise I saw in all net, I think. I look for people like me.
4) I´m the only one fan artist, even among proffesionals, that show his artwork with details even at 300% - 400% zoomed with comparative samples with unrestored original files (side by side).
5) In this miniature you showed me "Black Rose Centre Apron" is not corret. Wait for my restoration and you will see it.
6) Other shapes in this thumbnail are not correct too probably, because all around is black and it was difficut to for this author if he worked with bad quality scans. (reason of centre apron error).
7) The best thing now: I do all this for my own entertainment, not for gain money, like "shops" in this hobby. For me is a challenge to get the best restaoration possible in all my artworks.

You can see a sample of my work here. There are 1.000 artwork´s pictures by me (some are custom):

https://www.flickr.com/photos/49835782@N03/

Regards

#1275 47 days ago
Quoted from zacaj:

switch/lamp matrix row/column connectors are all paralleled

meaning it doesnt matter which one you plug into? Just kind of funny how its the exact opposite of the manual in both mine and the referenced photo game. But I guess if it works then ok!

AND THANKS all for the replys

2 weeks later
#1276 32 days ago

Another question,my cannon mounting ring doesnt have any clips? Manual calls for 3 clips part # 01-10942, I cant find them anywhere for sale? ANYBODY have some spares they would be willing to part with?

Can someone take a picture of one as well? How do they stay on? Does the big square metal part sit on the clips or the actual plastic of the ring? Mine was on the ring.

Also, my entire cannon assembly was mounted with larger screws when compared to all the other screws used on the underside for things like pops and mech mounting plates. They are longer and come very close to the underside of the playfield when screwed all the way in. Are yours larger or smaller like all the other ones used? In picture smaller screw circled in red is one used all over the place.
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#1277 32 days ago

I have casually started shipping ramps for Black Rose so will toss this out to everyone who is interested at this time. I will be working this weekend putting the ramps together.

Both ramps include all flaps and the new extended protectors. Prices shown below include the new riveted protectors. If anyone is interested in reusing their own original protectors for a reduced price let me know.

Black Rose Whirlpool ramp $120
Black Rose left Ramp $125
New Cover for Whirlpool ramp $18
Shipping for the two ramp set $16

There are ramp decals available for the Whirlpool but no decals for the left ramp at Planetary/Bay Area Amusements. There is no decal available for the Whirlpool ramp cover....your existing ramp cover will fit on my new ramp.

I will simply accept orders regardless of where you are on the list as I will get to everyone who is interested.
IMG_1646 (resized).JPG

#1278 32 days ago

New to the club! Crazy question... has anyone ever made an alternate BR translite? Thx

#1279 32 days ago

Finished redoing our black rose. We made a custom shooter rod, and also added a sword covering the shooter lane that we cut from sheet metal. Made a bracket and is installed with Velcro.

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#1280 32 days ago
Quoted from Foo:

New to the club! Crazy question... has anyone ever made an alternate BR translite? Thx

I made one... let the criticism start...

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#1281 32 days ago
Quoted from EStroh:

let the criticism start

Great Job ... looks great

#1282 32 days ago
Quoted from EStroh:

I made one... let the criticism start...[quoted image]

That looks good.

#1283 32 days ago

so how much to by one from you........and why hasn't anyone else asked yet

#1284 32 days ago
Quoted from dmeca12:

Finished redoing our black rose. We made a custom shooter rod, and also added a sword covering the shooter lane that we cut from sheet metal. Made a bracket and is installed with Velcro.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Well that looks frickin' awesome. Where did you get the sword handle (hilt)?

#1285 31 days ago

Like the gold...Not sure if I would have nixed the fire button though. Part of that game, although you can use the flipper buttons so probably not a huge deal. Sheet metal sword is sweet!

#1286 31 days ago

Could still add the fire button to that lock down bar though. As i posted recently it's not all that hard to do.

#1287 31 days ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

I have casually started shipping ramps for Black Rose so will toss this out to everyone who is interested at this time. I will be working this weekend putting the ramps together.
Both ramps include all flaps and the new extended protectors. Prices shown below include the new riveted protectors. If anyone is interested in reusing their own original protectors for a reduced price let me know.
Black Rose Whirlpool ramp $120
Black Rose left Ramp $125
New Cover for Whirlpool ramp $18
Shipping for the two ramp set $16
There are ramp decals available for the Whirlpool but no decals for the left ramp at Planetary/Bay Area Amusements. There is no decal available for the Whirlpool ramp cover....your existing ramp cover will fit on my new ramp.
I will simply accept orders regardless of where you are on the list as I will get to everyone who is interested.
[quoted image]

Pm sent for both Ramps. Nice work Mark!

#1288 31 days ago

Just got the ramps for my black rose from Mark freeplay40. GREAT WORK Mark. These ramps will differently last for 30 yrs. Again Thanks Mark for the beautiful and well made ramps

#1289 30 days ago

Can anyone check out my post above #1276 and confirm on the screw sizing? Please and thanks!

#1290 29 days ago
Quoted from EStroh:

Well that looks frickin' awesome. Where did you get the sword handle (hilt)?

Thanks. I bought it from a hobby shop that makes props and costumes for live action role play (LARP).

#1291 29 days ago
Quoted from TomN:

Like the gold...Not sure if I would have nixed the fire button though. Part of that game, although you can use the flipper buttons so probably not a huge deal. Sheet metal sword is sweet!

The pin didn't have the fire button when we got it. We thought about trying to do something different like using the stern style button, or creating something else. Got too many projects to do, so left it as is.

#1292 29 days ago
Quoted from GraniteStatePin:

Can anyone check out my post above #1276 and confirm on the screw sizing? Please and thanks!

I checked all the pictures I took when renovating my game but only found this that could be of interest for you. Unfortunately I only removed the revolving cannon part and not the entire cannon assembly so I don't have any pictures on the clips or screws as requested.

From this picture it seems some of my screws have a spacer and some don't; you could keep using your larger/longer screws to keep good grip in the PF but add a spacer or two to make sure they don't go through the top of the PF.

1 (resized).jpg
#1293 29 days ago

Just a heads up to all black rose owners. Not sure if it's listed here somewhere but I did not find anything while researching.

The manual is incorrect on one of the Flasher connectors. It has j-132 blue and orange and blue and yellow but it is supposed to go to j124. It was locking on my flasher. 50 volts going where 20 should be. Burned two caps while we were at it

Huge thanks and shout out to Rick yippiekiyay for figuring that out!

#1294 29 days ago
Quoted from Butch2099:

Just a heads up to all black rose owners. Not sure if it's listed here somewhere but I did not find anything while researching.
The manual is incorrect on one of the Flasher connectors. It has j-132 blue and orange and blue and yellow but it is supposed to go to j124. It was locking on my flasher. 50 volts going where 20 should be. Burned two caps while we were at it
Huge thanks and shout out to Rick yippiekiyay for figuring that out!

Several Manuals from this era have issues. GILLIGAN'S Island Before it is wrought with flaws.Im big on take lots of pics starting to work in back box
Thanks for posting!

#1295 26 days ago

Thanks Lhyrgoif.

Need some help if you guys can.My "LED #2 High/Low Line Voltage Sensor, Normally On" on the Driver Board is not on but rather blinking in unison with my insert lamps? Does it in attract mode and during test mode of "all lamps"

Also at the same time I am not able to start a game?

I've run tests on all lamps/flashers/sound/solenoids/switches etc. Everything works fine but can't start a game and the blinking LED? Any thoughts?

#1296 25 days ago

I can start a game! Ended up being the start button switch had gone wonky since my last switch test.

In other news...the two flashers on the top of the metal housing behind the playfield backboard, flasher #25 'top popper' are constantly on? Any idea what would cause this?

Also still looking for photos of the cannon ring metal mounting clips. Or if you have some i'll buy them!

Thanks!

#1297 19 days ago

New Ramp!

IMG_5164 (resized).jpg
#1298 13 days ago

picked up a BR some time ago and it was a routed machine with a lot of play on it. Two of the posts were loose in the wood so those needed to go. Looking at some of the pictures on this thread I observed that some people have the same posts that my machine had, posts that only screw into the playfield, while others had posts that go all the way through and are nutted on the bottom, below the playfield.
I drilled out the holes and swapped over to the through-hole type as these two posts get battered by the upper flipper shot.

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#1299 12 days ago

I am trying to adjust the lock switches. The old switches was sticky and slow. I can't seem to get it right, something binds. Has anyone taken a picture of their switch?
The sickout arm seems to be blocking the switches. Any pointers would be great.

#1300 12 days ago
Quoted from Axl:

I am trying to adjust the lock switches. The old switches was sticky and slow. I can't seem to get it right, something binds. Has anyone taken a picture of their switch?
The sickout arm seems to be blocking the switches. Any pointers would be great.

Are you talking about the area with the upside down starpost? Not really sure what pictures you are after. Please gove more info and we might be able to help.

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