A little help???

I'm working on the new Whirlpool and left side ramps for BR. I'm making newer longer protectors for both and I want to insure a good fit. The protectors on the donor ramps I have are a little bent.

There are two posts on each side of the entrances to these ramps. The protectors attach to tops of these posts. What I would like to know is the measurement of the distance between each set of posts....center to center. I will build a jig to insure everything fits nicely.

Thanks in advance and Happy Holidays!

Mark

Perfect. Thanks!!!

I changed the sleeve on a flipper coil and now my game resets when I press both the flippers. So odd. Wonder if I messed up a diode on the coil or something.

If that’s not close enough I can get a better measurement tomorrow. My battery is dead in my caliper

I'll never forget what an old pinball legend told me many, many years ago....
"Whats the last thing you touched or fixed?"
IE, you bent a lug, or bumped, bent, broke something.
Check the flipper coil in detail.

I changed the coil out thinking maybe a diode was messed up or something. Got the machine to reboot with double flipper action on my first try.

I restarted and did some play testing (without double flips) and noticed a pop bumper not firing. I reached back there with my hand and played with the pop skirt until it started firing again correctly.

Now I can double flip all I want and no resets. Am I crazy? Didn’t feel like I actually fixed anything. Only thing I can theorize is that the pop was locked on a drawing a lot of power maybe and the double flips sent the game into a reset?

Who knows... just hope it stays fixed! Gonna start it up again when it’s cold and see if I can get it to reset again.

Thanks for the input!

Not crazy. A locked pop skirt can cause this, IMO, seen that before on my Fish Tales.

Anyone remember how they shopped the back end of this game? I guess remove the whole back panel? Hate that the playfield doesn’t pull forward on this game. Makes it tough to reach stuff.

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Just did it.... pull the play field out support from underneath !

Thanks!

So pull the playfield off the hinges?

if you lift it up you will see the cut outs in the pivots. You can just pull the whole playfield out by lifting the front of the playfield up and then lift back up and out.

What he said!

That's what I did also, I just used a few rolled up towels. I pulled it up and put in some towels to hold the playfield above the cabinet.

Not for the faint hearted, but you can set the wood near the back on the hinge pins, and set the front of the playfield so the cannon bottom rests on the lockdown bar. That's what I do if I need to get back there quickly

Ahh, I can reach things now. Thanks guys!

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Do you have any more pictures of how you set it up in the back?
Was it possible to do it on your own?

I already have it back on the hinges but I had the back end of the playfield resting on top of the hinges and the metal cannon base was resting on the lockdown bar. Seemed pretty steady. It did slip back a little but there’s a big screw in the cannon base that caught nicely on the lockdown lip.

I did it on my own but it takes a little muscle.

While you have the playfield removed and good access to the backside, double check that you have the spring mounted in the broadside hole. That spring makes wonders in keeping the ball to stay and not fall out again after entering.

I know mine doesn't have it. Do you know the part number for it, is anyone carrying the part now I would like to install it.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/10-434

Interesting. I will have to check for that.

Been scouring internet for a replacement rear ball trough. Mine has some hack metal bits covering a big hole.

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Just joined the club but as it's a project machine and seems to have a few issues, just going off my first visual inspection, i'm probably gonna ask some stupid questions til i get this baby sorted out The one loudly obvious thing is it's missing the subway trough plastic but otherwise all the rest seems to be present and accounted for. It's definitely got some wiring issues to sort out though and some busted wires off plugs here and there and i'm pretty sure this machine is supposed to have opto boards/interrupters for the flipper buttons, not regular switches?? (few loose wires in that area also) First thing is to get all the wiring looked over and see what boards are working (luckily i have a couple of machines the same era that i can swap with), and after that the usual cosmetic issues you'd expect from a machine that's been sitting around for ages doing bugger all
EDIT** CPU boots up, got sound, DMD works but got a line or 2 out, flippers work...and that's it so far No lights of any kind, no flashers and all other coils not working. All fuses test ok though so it's back to

Could someone please take a photo of their driver board connections, and also of both flipper boards please, that would be most appreciated!! I just need to make sure my plugs are all where they should be.

Let me know if you any other pics

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Cheers mate!!! Very helpful TY
Got the machine up and running now, the issue with no lights, flashers and secondary coils was due to poor connections on some of the driver board plugs, bit of re-seating action got them all happy I will have to track down the opto boards but at the moment it does work with blade switches (just can't stage with the upper right) The main thing is to order the subway ramp so the machine can be played properly, the cosmetic challenges can wait for the time being. The only thing i'm not positive about is the 2 switches for the subway ramp?? The switches on this machine are still attached to the wiring loom underneath but 1 of them is missing the metal actuator. A pic or 2 of the switches would be awesome and if possible the part number for them and any mounting bracket part number?
Thanks for the help

If you don't have the paper manual then go to ipdb.org , search using the pin name and then download the manual as pdf. There you have all stuff like switch part numbers and so on.

Cheers yeah knew where to download it from but my printer pooped itself just recently I just wasn't sure if both subway switches were the same as one was missing the actuator but to add to the confusion there was a busted actuator in the bottom of the cab which didn't match the whole one. Could have been just a random though of course.
EDIT** I had a look through the manual but i couldn't find a reference for the subway trough switches and the part number?, apologies if i've just overlooked it (getting late here) Also trying to find a reference for the lower channel that the translite fits into, the part that is normally called a H channel for machines that have the speakers beside the DMD. Again...apologies if i have just overlooked these in the manual, was a long day at work and it's getting late. TY for the help!!

BR manual page 2-42 , nr 61 "subway top" and nr 66 "subway bottom" seem to be the switches you are after. Both are 5647-12693-21.

If I understood you correct you need the bottom trim/lifting part of the backglass, that one is 03-8229-1.

Edit: I just realized this wasn't the part you need. Not sure if its correct but it could be "03-8230-3 glass retainer" that you are after, it sure sound like it but I can't find any selling it within 2 minutes googling so can't confirm its the correct part.

When I can't find stuff in the manual (usually stuff not on the playfield but rather somewhere else on the machine) this site is a great source: https://www.moll.no/pinball/jsparts/BR.php You can change the "BR" in the URL to some other game abbreviation (just make sure its all capital case) and get that machines part too. The nice thing with this site is that you can search for either words/phrases or article numbers and find them easily that way. I found the glass retainer by simply typing "backbox", then clicking on the small triangle left of the highlighted row to expand all items for the backbox, there you have all associated items with part nr and amount. Great tool!

When I'm shopping a game and for example wonder how many star posts I need to order, I simply input the post nr and count how many hits I get for it in the tree. Note that sometimes there are multiple of the same thing in one row, like "03-8228-1 channel glass edge (2)" where the 2 tells us there are two side trims.

Awesome!! yeah that's the one, i must have been tired cause i glossed right over that part

YES!!!! that would be the part i'm sure and i couldn't find anyone selling this part anywhere on the net. The only reference i could find was a post in another pinside thread from Rick @ PPS saying he had the files for a few items (03-8230-3 being one of them) but he wasn't sure what machine they were for, and that was a few years back

That site you mention will be very handy for future part finding missions also so thank you very much for this!! I know i stumbled upon a similar site some years back but i've forgotten the name of it, fairly sure it wasn't the one you mention though.
Thanks again for your help

Lhyrgoif 1 last question and i think i should be right for now are these the correct brackets to attach the switches to the subway trough?

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-8652

I just wanted to make sure before i put in an order for parts.

No, the two switches attaches simply using two screws (4002-01105-10) and a plate (01-8240). I found a so-so picture from renovating my game, its a bit blurry but you should be able to see how its fastened directly to the subway anyway.

Looking at that picture now I think the previous owner mounted the screws the wrong way. If the screw head rested against the switch, the screw could go through the holes in the switch and then into the plate on the other side for "locking". The downside would be that the screw head would face the playfield and you had to remove the subway to access the screw heads. An alternative would be to buy double plates, one for each side of the switch (which I guess I'm having in this picture) or two 2-56 nuts. I'm to lazy to open my game and verify it now.

Remember to double all stuff as you have two switches to mount.
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So i've got a bunch of parts on order and despite the fact i was just going to get it up and running for now...well i changed my mind and decided to strip the top of the PF, give it a good clean/polish and go over some of the metal parts also. After getting down to the basics left on the PF i spotted this unusual sight at the back of the pirates cove, surely this wouldn't be factory?? Not even sure why it would need some sort of stop as the kick out arm doesn't go back far enough in the cut out hole to hit the PF anyway. It sure has been hitting on the rubber around the arse up star post though cause it's made a big dint in the perished rubber.

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Mine is the same way

Wow, ok, wasn't expecting it to be factory that's for sure!! There was certainly a few other things that had been done to the machine that definitely weren't factory, like the use of blade switches for the flippers instead of opto's. This was originally a German delivered machine and appears to have spent most of it's time on location, got the usual holes beside the coin door for a lock bar and a coin return opening that looks like someone attacked it with a can opener

I thought that was weird too when I tore mine down. I removed it, and quickly discovered why it was there! It deadens the balls when they're shot in. Without it, the balls bounce off the kicker arm and frequently right back out of the lock

Hi guys, does anyone know where I can get a shooter gauge plate decal or a even a gauge plate already decaled?

Now I guess I have to clean stuff and put it back together. Why am I so slow?

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We all are, Pinball takes time.
I'm building a big list as I wait for Mark to finish the Black Rose Ramps.
Got my Canon shell from PPS to.

hey guys- i need to leave the club for awhile. Need to join some other clubs

anyways, if anyone knows someone looking for a very nice, great condition player's Black Rose, freshly shopped and 100% working, please let me know. I got this 12 years ago from Kirk Perry (Captain Kirk, to all the old timers around here), and it's been well taken care of ever since. And before anyone blows a gasket, I am reasonably negotiable and open to trades. Thanks!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/for-sale-black-rose-58

Jon - Jackbar

Rear trough eventually succumbed to the steel ball and it had a huge hole blown through it. Attempting to use bits of plastic to bond onto the trough and make it useable again. Too bad no one makes these!

It won’t be super pretty, but it’s behind the backboard out of view anyway.

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I did post a request into Freeplay40 's thread about possibly doing these along with the other 2 ramps he's reproducing but he's a busy dude at the moment, no reply as yet

It'd be cool if cliffy or someone could make a protector for that. Seems like a 3" section of metal where the ball strikes would do fine.

Is anyone sitting on a good used whirlpool ramp they might be willing to part with? Doesn’t need to be perfectLy clear and clean, just intact. Let me know, thanks!

Didnt someone here reproduce that ramp and cannon plastic recently?

@freeplsy40 is doing them now

I believe so, that’s why I was hoping someone might have upgraded.

This one will be for my ultra low buck project game. Doesn’t need to be too nice. The one I have in it now is functioning but I accidentally busted off the center bit and “repaired” it.

Looks like they’re still “in process” btw.

I'm very close on the new ramps for Black Rose. I have been distracted dealing with the sale of a couple homes in our mother's estate. As I had mentioned earlier, I would offer the ramps with and without new protectors. Since I have been so busy with non pinball issues, I contracted a local laser cutter to produce a bunch of the protectors for me. I just picked those up last night.

Sounds good dude. I’m dealing with my mother’s estate right now too so I feel you. Pinball will be here when you’re done.

This game I’ve been working on (a low buck freebie fix up) probably isn’t good enough for a NEW ramp but maybe I put one of yours on my keeper and move the old one over.

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Not too bad for a “get it out of my house” special tho!