Algonquin, IL
Quoted from transprtr4u:What LEDs are you using? Tested the 2 red bulbs in the slings changing them to LED and I instantly blew fuse 109
Comet 2 smd. Perhaps you shorted something putting them in?
(Topic ID: 112697)
Linked Games
Black Rose
Bally, 1992
Topic Gallery
Edmonton, AB
Quoted from dudah:Comet 2 smd. Perhaps you shorted something putting them in?
Using the 4SMD non ghosting comet bulbs ,machine was off but I will take a quick peek. Do this only come one on when the ball is in the Cannon? Mine are on constantly?
Hamburg
Hi to all
Today Buthamburg received the confirmation to re-produce Black Rose Playfields.
Buthamburg is officially now opening the pre-order list.
Buthamburg has also received confirmation for the following Playfields.
Police Force
Party Zone
Hurricane
In work are the following Playfields
Bride of Pinbot
No Good Goofers
Road Show
Playfields in Shipping
F-14 Tom Cat
Alien Poker
If you wish to be on a pre-order list, then please send an email to peter at buthamburg dot de, with your postal address.
Have a nice day
Regards from Hamburg
Leon & Peter
www.buthamburg.de
Quoted from Buthamburg:Hi to all
Today Buthamburg received the confirmation to re-produce Black Rose Playfields.
Buthamburg is officially now opening the pre-order list.
Buthamburg has also received confirmation for the following Playfields.
Police Force
Party Zone
Hurricane
In work are the following Playfields
Bride of Pinbot
No Good Goofers
Road Show
Playfields in Shipping
F-14 Tom Cat
Alien Poker
If you wish to be on a pre-order list, then please send an email to peter at buthamburg dot de, with your postal address.
Have a nice day
Regards from Hamburg
Leon & Peter
www.buthamburg.de
Awesome, I should already be on the list I'll send another email to make sure.
I’ve got an error for switch 62 - backboard ramp. Has anyone found an easy way to get to that switch by themselves? (Sometimesgood help is hard to find ).
I can feel it, but I can’t see if a wire broke off. Thanks
Quoted from Billc479:I’ve got an error for switch 62 - backboard ramp. Has anyone found an easy way to get to that switch by themselves? (Sometimesgood help is hard to find ).
I can feel it, but I can’t see if a wire broke off. Thanks
Best I came up with working by myself was to tip the playfield up, lift it off the hinges, pull it forward and set the cannon bottom on the lockdown bar receiver. Gives you about 1 foot of room behind the wall to try to work
Already tried folding the head. It doesn’t give access to the switch. It’s blocked by a light board and there’s not enough room to see or work around it.
I guess I’m going to have to lift the play field out and slide it forward. Pretty precarious position, but that looks like about the only option right now. Although I can’t imagine Bally thought something like that would be ok.
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:Got a spare cannon shell?
Anyone?
Were you able to find a spare piece, @ericpinballfan? I'm on the same search right now.
Quoted from nitrojcrawf:Somebody had a complete NOS cannon assy. I could try to find who it was if interested
Any luck on locating this piece, @nitrojcrawf? Hoping to score the same piece or get in contact with TurnedWoods for a custom piece.
Quoted from JMWRainwater:Were you able to find a spare piece, ericpinballfan? I'm on the same search right now.
Any luck on locating this piece, nitrojcrawf? Hoping to score the same piece or get in contact with turnedwoods for a custom piece.
This was the guy who reached out to me on FaceBook. You can try and reach out.
https://www.facebook.com/cliff.clark.167
Quoted from JMWRainwater:Were you able to find a spare piece, ericpinballfan? I'm on the same search right now.
I've been on the hunt for 2 years. Just saw your post in another thread.
Every once in a while one will pop up for top dollar. Had a few pinsiders say, Let me look, then nothing.
That's the closest I've gotten.
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:I've been on the hunt for 2 years. Just saw your post in another thread.
Every once in a while one will pop up for top dollar. Had a few pinsiders say, Let me look, then nothing.
That's the closest I've gotten.
Why hasn’t anyone just made a 3D printable file and sold that? (I mean, I know the answer, but after 3+ years of waiting.. come on)
Here is the solution on the cannon rotation. I circled the set screw in blue. Question to all, is your motor shaft welded in place too? See red arrows. I'm not sure if this was from the factory (which doesn't make sense if they put a screw there to adjust, but the weld is so clean that's why I'm asking) or if this was done afterwards.
cannon motor (resized).pngcannon motor (resized).png
Linköping
I have some trouvle with my cannon.
The switch in the cannon is working also the soleonid who shoots out the ball. In test mode.
My red cannon button is not really working, but that doesnt matter.
When pushing both flipper to fire the cannon.
I hear shooting sound, but it dont eject the ball.
What could be the problem?
Quoted from Tjohejsan:I have some trouvle with my cannon.
The switch in the cannon is working also the soleonid who shoots out the ball. In test mode.
My red cannon button is not really working, but that doesnt matter.
When pushing both flipper to fire the cannon.
I hear shooting sound, but it dont eject the ball.
What could be the problem?
Make sure the ball is “loaded” and the display says “ready to fire”. Sometimes my ball will get hung up and isn’t ready.
The cannon is also ready to fire when the light under the cannon comes on. Verify the display and the light under the cannon come on when the ball enters. Sometimes it takes a second or two for the ball to get to the right place. If the ball is in the hole and it doesn't fire, check the adjustment for the switch that activates when the ball is ready - its likely not closing when it should.
Quoted from Billc479:The cannon is also ready to fire when the light under the cannon comes on. Verify the display and the light under the cannon come on when the ball enters. Sometimes it takes a second or two for the ball to get to the right place. If the ball is in the hole and it doesn't fire, check the adjustment for the switch that activates when the ball is ready - its likely not closing when it should.
When the ball hits the switch, White light turns on.
And I supposed the switch is somehow connected to the Lights.
But i Will check the switch again, if its something i missed.
Quoted from PinNewb:Here is the solution on the cannon rotation. I circled the set screw in blue. Question to all, is your motor shaft welded in place too? See red arrows. I'm not sure if this was from the factory (which doesn't make sense if they put a screw there to adjust, but the weld is so clean that's why I'm asking) or if this was done afterwards.[quoted image][quoted image]
Mine is welded too. I remember thinking this was rather odd first time I saw it.
Since shopping my game out, I feel the cannon isn't the same. The cannon lid seems to hit the habitrail. The ball sometimes skips over it. Just re-level? Should I aim more for it being recessed in the playfield versus sticking above it?
Quoted from dudah:Since shopping my game out, I feel the cannon isn't the same. The cannon lid seems to hit the habitrail. The ball sometimes skips over it. Just re-level? Should I aim more for it being recessed in the playfield versus sticking above it?
Did you use the right spacers on the wireform?
Quoted from gunstarhero:Did you use the right spacers on the wireform?
I believe so, they're about an inch high
Hello to all
We are busy tooling up for the Cannon assembly, Will be ready early next year.
If you wish to be on the pre-order List, then please send an email directly to peter at buthamburg dot de
Buthamburg is also setting up to remake Black Rose playfields, tehy will be printed with silk screen
Regards from Hamburg
Leon & Peter
already posted this on Facebook, but realized this would be the better place for good info... shopping out BR and reinstalled the cannon after giving it a good disassembly and cleaning. the spacers/plates that hold the motor to the rest of the assembly are as tight as they go, and it still kind of floats and shifts slightly when changing direction. is this proper operation? or am i missing something?
I recently completed putting new side art on my Black Rose pinball. The new decals were a Christmas present from my children. The factory art was decals which made the preparation much more time-consuming than if it had been painted. Removing the decals required a heat gun and a lot of scrapping. Make sure you heat and scrap all of the glue as removing it later with Mineral Spirits is messy and very time consuming. I used the dry method of decal application which is fairly easy if two people work together. A couple of items of note are I used metal leg protectors to protect the decals and used Pinball Universe Protectors to protect the inside side art during the many times I raised and lowered the playfield. During reassembly I had a CPU board problem so I sent it to Pinball Cauldron for repair. I then had a flipper opto board problem which was fixed by cleaning the optos and reflowing the soldier. It is nice to be able to play Black Rose again.
Snap1 (resized).jpgSnap2 (resized).jpgSnap3 (resized).jpgSnap4 (resized).jpgSnap5 (resized).jpgSnap6 (resized).jpgSnap7 (resized).jpgSnap8 (resized).jpgMan with the new art, the cdmd and the blades that must be the sweetest black rose out there, very nice!
Quoted from OTRChief:I recently completed putting new side art on my Black Rose pinball. The new decals were a Christmas present from my children. The factory art was decals which made the preparation much more time-consuming than if it had been painted. Removing the decals required a heat gun and a lot of scrapping. Make sure you heat and scrap all of the glue as removing it later with Mineral Spirits is messy and very time consuming. I used the dry method of decal application which is fairly easy if two people work together. A couple of items of note are I used metal leg protectors to protect the decals and used Pinball Universe Protectors to protect the inside side art during the many times I raised and lowered the playfield. During reassembly I had a CPU board problem so I sent it to Pinball Cauldron for repair. I then had a flipper opto board problem which was fixed by cleaning the optos and reflowing the soldier. It is nice to be able to play Black Rose again.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Beautiful! Well done, looks Amazing. 
Should there be a spring under the fire button?
I can’t seem to find anything about it in the manual.
Quoted from Axl:Should there be a spring under the fire button?
I can’t seem to find anything about it in the manual.
No, spring is apart of the button itself.
Quoted from Axl:That is strange. The button is very slow and sticky. Will try to clean it. Maybe that helps.
The game is for sale. I am starting to regret that decision.
With the new NOS cannon and all, it plays beautifully
I think you beat me to that last cannon shell.
You know, dont have to sell it.
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:think you beat me to that last cannon shell.
I bought it from Finland, so probably not. ;)x
Buthamburg will save the day.
Is there a guide for the game? I feel it is much more complex than what’s on the surface.
Quoted from Axl:I bought it from Finland, so probably not. ;)x
buthamburg will save the day.
Is there a guide for the game? I feel it is much more complex than what’s on the surface.
There are rule sheets at IPDB.com.
It’s really not complex. But it’s fun!
Quoted from Axl:I bought it from Finland, so probably not. ;)x
buthamburg will save the day.
Is there a guide for the game? I feel it is much more complex than what’s on the surface.
I did a semi-tutorial stream on it a while ago:
Quoted from transprtr4u:Well switch #62 replaced ... cleaned up behind the backboard ... quite the effort to change a microswitch[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
It is a pain to pull that playfield out.
I put a couple Comet Fire LED's under the back subway gives it cool affect.
Quoted from BertoDRINK1:Comet Fire LED's
That's a good idea ....
Changed out the posts to what I thought they should be ..went from from all clears to black ,blue and the one orange for the upper right plastic support.
Changed all the rubbers to white and yellow plus red for the slings. Also used black lock nut washers to blend into the color scheme.
IMG_20191017_1132066 (resized).jpgIMG_20191017_1132165 (resized).jpgIMG_20191017_1132304 (resized).jpgIMG_20191017_1132428 (resized).jpgIMG_20191017_1133122 (resized).jpgQuoted from transprtr4u:Changed out the posts to what I thought they should be ..went from from all clears to black ,blue and the one orange for the upper right plastic support.
Changed all the rubbers to white and yellow plus red for the slings. Also used black lock nut washers to blend into the color scheme.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Excellent execution!
Quoted from zacaj:Those posts look great. What's the reasoning on the yellow though?
Works well with the colors off the plastics ...
What colors have others gone with...
Bordeaux
After going through my game found my DMD was very unsecure due to aged plastic standoffs ... so I'm going to install a Colordmd LCD display. Due to the height of the display will have to arrange the relocation of 2 lights and 1 flasher ...
IMG_20191023_1049502 (resized).jpgIMG_20191023_1049578 (resized).jpg
Quoted from transprtr4u:After going through my game found my DMD was very unsecure due to aged plastic standoffs ... so I'm going to install a Colordmd LCD display. Due to the height of the display will have to arrange the relocation of 2 lights and 1 flasher ...
[quoted image][quoted image]
If it’s not too late, Consider a ColorDMD LED display. It’s still full color, still looks great, and keeps closer to the original “dots”. And it’s the same profile as a regular DMD so no obstruction
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:If it’s not too late, Consider a ColorDMD LED display. It’s still full color, still looks great, and keeps closer to the original “dots”. And it’s the same profile as a regular DMD so no obstruction
Have purchased the LED display before and resold it! I find the lack of dots more to my taste, so I use the smooth setting.
Will post the results when done.
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