(Topic ID: 80123)

Black Knight - System 7 - Scoring issues

By RDM

10 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 131 posts
  • 18 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 years ago by RDM
  • Topic is favorited by 4 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

a1.gif
There are 131 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 3.
#1 10 years ago

Me again! Still working through Black Knight, trying to get it up and running correctly.

The main area of concern is the kickout at the top left isn't activating or registering balls being locked up there. So multiball never occurs and it continues to eat the balls and not put them back into play or even kick them out after a game ends.

There's also a strange scoring problem but I'm hoping that gets resolved after this switch matrix problem is licked.

The #03 switch test shows a series of problems involving 39, 38, 37, 19, 18 and 17. Occasionally it will be only some of those numbers, other times it will be the whole bunch. (Faulty wiring/shorts?)

I've disconnected the column and row connections (2J2 and 2J3) from the driver board and then manually ran through with jumpers to activate all 46 switches and had it work without issue, switches 1 through 46 all showed up properly in the diagnostics. This leads me to believe that there's a problem in the wiring or hardware. Does that seem like sound reasoning?

#2 10 years ago

That seems very sound. Also, check the pins on the board. They could have cracked solder joints causing the intermitent problem. The connectors themselves are another likely culprit.

#3 10 years ago

If it isn't the connectors or headers then follow the wires on the playfield. Do you have a switch matrix chart? Find all the switches in the problem row or column. I usually start at the switch farthest from the board. Find where the row ends and clip one lead from your meter on that switch tab. Check the solder joints and move to the next switch. Check continuity between the previous switch. Keep moving up the circuit until you lose continuity. If you get to the closest switch to the board and continuity is good, check it from the end of row to the first point on the board after the connector.

Jason

#4 10 years ago

Cool, so provided the solder job on the headers is OK, it's safe to start tracking backwards from the connectors to the switches themselves, that's good. Primarily wanted to make sure I was safe to isolate the playfield tech after testing the switch logic manually.

I do have the switch matrix chart but like a dumb dumb I'd left it in a binder that I didn't have with me. So that will have to wait until next time.

Schertz, if I'm understanding your suggested method correctly, that means the switches are wired in series, yes? Is there a ground wire that hits each switch as well? Apologies, I don't have the machine right here so I'm trying to remember what I was looking at. I don't recall seeing any solid coloured wires that I'd normally associate as a ground, but there are so many wires I wouldn't be surprised to find out I missed seeing it.

#5 10 years ago

If I'm reading you correctly when you close switch 3 in switch test some combination of switches 39, 38, 37, 19, 18 and 17 will also indicate closed? If that is correct then the first question is if you have re-wired any of the switches or replaced any switch diodes?

Sounds more like a shorted/reversed diode than an intermittent connection. Although the variability of the false indications is odd. Just to make sure you did all of these tests at the same time and no other switches where in a different position (open or closed) at different points during your testing?

#6 10 years ago

There are no "ground" wires connected to the switches. There's a row wire and a column wire on each switch. When it's closed the boards recognizes it by the row/column combo of the closure.

Jason

#7 10 years ago

That sounds like an accurate summary Terry, yes.

I have not touched any of the playfield electronics yet, my adventures have been confined solely to the backbox.

I don't know how to accurately answer your question, so I'll describe what I did, maybe that'll communicate the right info.

With the glass off but the machine otherwise undisturbed, I flipped up the playfield and visually inspected the bottom, taking care to touch as little as possible. No "work" was done at this time, just visual inspection.

Dropped the playfield back down and ran the switch test with it fully connected. This produced the conflicts mentioned already.

I turned it off again, flipped the playfield up and then back down and after powering it up and running through the switch tests, similar results occurred. I don't remember the exact order, if the 17,18 and 19 switches were closed or if that happened the first time, either way, through some combination of my eyes looking at them or the shifting of the playfield, that changed the locked switches showing in the test.

I then disconnected 2J2 and 2J3 from the driver board. Powered the machine on, put it into the switch test and since the playfield switches were disconnected, there were no switch conflicts/locks showing. I then went through and sequentially tested the switches from 1 to 46 via a jumper wire connected between the various pins on 2J2 and 2J3 successfully.

#8 10 years ago

I looked at the switch matrix and there is not any connection between the 6 switches you mentioned and those in the kick out. I just had a switch problem in my sys 3 World Cup. I made a copy of the switch matrix diagram and went into switch test. I followed the chart and in switch order I closed #1. If it worked I highlighted the number and went to #2 etc...

I would do this on your game and make notes as to if the switch closes like it should, if it doesn't close, or it closes multiple switches. After you go through all the switches, you will have a physical map of the problem switches. You can look and see where the problems might be.

Jason

#9 10 years ago

That's a really good suggestion, I will totally do that.

#10 10 years ago

If something shorts on the PF to a switch line it will blow out associated 7406 / 4049 on the top right corner of driver board.

Do what schertz said and isolate to a single/multiple column or row. Once the issue is isolated do testing to determine if it is on the PF or in the driver board. Divide and conquer.

#11 10 years ago
Quoted from barakandl:

If something shorts on the PF to a switch line it will blow out associated 7406 / 4049 on the top right corner of driver board.
Do what schertz said and isolate to a single/multiple column or row. Once the issue is isolated do testing to determine if it is on the PF or in the driver board. Divide and conquer.

He did a switch test with jumpers on the connectors and everything was ok. Thank you for backing me up. Makes me know I'm giving good advice.

#12 10 years ago
Quoted from SchertzPinball:

Makes me know I'm giving good advice.

Yes, you are giving good advice. The only thing I would add is take all the balls out of the game and test all the switches. Then put the balls back in the game and test again to see if you get different results.

#13 10 years ago

Quick clarification question.

I'll remove the balls and enter switch diagnostic mode.

If it's constantly cycling between the closed switches (39, 38, 37, 19, 18 and 17) will I be able to manually activate and test the other switches? I assume I should be able to, but I want to make sure I'm understanding the suggested testing process.

#14 10 years ago

If the switch numbers cycle only when you close switch 3, which was my interpretation of the problem, then you'll be fine testing the other switches. Just make sure switch 3 is open.

#15 10 years ago

The switches are cycling without any input from me at all. Like the minute I initiate the switch matrix test (which is test #03 in the credits display, probably where things got confused the numbers (39, 38, 37, 19, 18 and 17) flash on the display continuously.

I'm sure that's likely an obvious tell to someone but it's literally my first attempt at diagnosing a switch matrix issue. To me, after reading the Operators Handbook again, it sounds like the switches in question or some combination thereof are stuck in a closed state, if they were to open, it sounds like they would disappear from the cycling sequence.

So I think I need to figure out what's causing those switches to remain in a closed state.

#16 10 years ago

Correct. 3 if those switches are the top right drop targets. There's one wire connecting all 3. I would look there first. The other 3 are not connected at all according totbe switch matrix map.

Before going into switch test. Make sure all drop targets are up. Couldn't be that easy of a fix though lol

#17 10 years ago

Hahaha shit, I'd never even thought of that! Good lord. Oh well, humility is a wonderful thing, sometimes it just takes a while for life to drill it into your damn head.

I'll probably have to wait until the weekend to take a look at it, but I appreciate all the advice and clarification that's been provided so far.

#18 10 years ago

I'm working on a Black Knight also, I'm having this same issue. Except my switches are 01 thru 08 and all are reporting an error. They are all in the same column #1. My guess is that the 2J9 connector on the driver board has failed, probably a solder issue? At least that's where I'm starting, I'll report back my findings. If anyone else has suggestions I welcome them.

1 week later
#19 10 years ago

It looks like all the switch conflicts that were visible during my first round of testing were in fact, as a result of the balls being in the trough and various drop targets being down. Doh!

That being said, there's still issues with the game and its scoring. During games the score goes hog wild and claims I've made 1 million points (or more) and have increasingly large numbers of credits input, despite barely scoring anything on the table.

#20 10 years ago

If all your switches #1-8 are showing up constantly, that's usually one of the wireforms on the coin door grounding out against the frame. Very common thing to find on system 3-7 games.

-Hans

#21 10 years ago

Just wanted to bump this and see if anyone had some ideas of where I could start looking.

No switches are showing as closed during the switch test. I (sheepishly) was getting false positives by forgetting that balls in the game and drop targets not being up would close switches. Oops.

I've removed all the balls and reset all the drop targets. I've manually activated every switch, one at a time, and the corresponding proper switch activates during the test.

During games, the score still glitches out and jumps up WAY faster than it should.

#22 10 years ago

Firstly I would check the coin door as HHaase suggested.

This is a little more difficult because of the way the switch diagnostics work on system 7 games (scrolling through any closed switches). If the problem is with the playfield portion of the switch matrix it takes a combination of switches being closed at the same time. For example, two balls in the trough and the left target down. Then when you hit a target the system senses two switches have been closed instead of one. See the following article to see how the switch matrix works.

http://pinballrehab.com/1-articles/solid-state-repair/repair-guides/146-switch-matrix-theory-and-troubleshooting

First it would be great if you can determine which switch is falsely indicating closed. Sometimes the amount of points awarded or a sound will help identify the switch. Other than that try different combinations of switch closures and see if you can narrow it down. Put one target down and hit other switches to see if they score properly, then put down a different target and so on. I can't remember if the game has ball locks, but also do the same with any ball locks.

The other approach would be to test and inspect every diode in the switch matrix. Make sure they're not touching any bare metal and make sure they're not shorted.

#23 10 years ago

Thanks Terry (and HHaase), I'll plug away at that for a while and update if I come up with any more info.

#24 10 years ago

RDM;

Is there any way that you can watch the score, to see what increments it's increasing in? Or is there a particular extra sound that gets played constantly when the score is increased without reason? For instance, explosion type sounds would indicate the mystery ramp or getting false kickouts from the locks. This switch is a common one to find out of adjustment, as is the spinner.

I've also had ball lock issues where the switches are just fine, but it can't quite get a ball to launch out of the upper lock all the way. It gets pushed out enough that the switch opens, then the ball falls back into the lock, causing the CPU to again try to kick it out to the playfield. That one adds up points real fast.

As would drop targets not getting reset properly after their timer expires, and the CPU just starts the sequence again as if the targets were dropped again.

-Hans

#25 10 years ago

Well I know that (before I removed the striker) the bell was ringing WAY more than it should have. I'll pay more attention to what's happening in the game and the scoring increases next time and report back.

The ball lock in the upper playfield issue sounds like it might be a possibility. The first ball position switch seems to work well, but the second and third don't register unless the switch wire is pushed WAY down, so if the wire isn't kept in the exactly correct spot, the switch would maybe register as being open/closed far too often during play.

3 weeks later
#26 10 years ago

Back with a small update of symptoms that crop up while playing.

The scoring seems to predominantly jump by a million points.
The BK voice will often interrupt a ball mid-play with.
The lower cabinet bell will ring far too often, I assume that's resulting from the score blowing up so much, but I don't have a good handle on the scoring rules to determine if that's just working correctly based off the score increasing or if that's another symptom.
The player 1 score display LCD has a flicker and occasionally drops digits during a game, yet it tests 100% solid when the machine is in diagnostic mode.

The drop targets are all physically being reset after they've been downed, single, double or all three, so that appears to be working correctly from a mechanical standpoint.
The top left ball lock kick-out is working, the switches in that trough needed adjusting so they'd actually register balls sitting on them. They now work every time. Overall, like I said, mechanically, the game appears to be playing correctly.

Like before, when booted up in diagnostic mode, no switches are showing as open and I can manually activate each individual switch and the board recognizes it and only it as being active and displays it correctly on the LCD.

#27 10 years ago

The bell will ring for every bonus advance, once you have max bonus and max multiplier. So when your bell begins to go off like crazy, look to see if your bonus is maxed out.

#28 10 years ago

Ok cool, that likely suggests that the bell is ringing at the correct time then, but that the multiplier is maxing out improperly.

As an addendum to the symptoms, the BK will often speak during games and say something along the lines of
'I cannot fight you again. you win.'
'one enemy cannot fight the black knight. Will you challenge the black knight again?'

Meanwhile gameplay continues along with scoring (incorrectly)

#29 10 years ago

"I cannot fight you, you win" occurs when you beat the replay score.

#30 10 years ago

If your score is going up faster than you think it should, it could be a switch too close. With the glass off, start a game and see if it mysteriously scores. If not, bang on the playfield with your hand and see if you can get it to score. If not, manually close each switch in the game one at a time. At some point in those tests, you hopefully can trigger the problem and start diagnosing from there.

On a different note, I had a Lucky Seven that had weird behaviors in a game. It would score and advance when it shouldn't. It turned out to be the switches shorting out to the coin mech assemblies. While you are testing things, take a close look at your coin door switches.

I've never worked on a BK, but you should be able to disconnect the coin door harness to eliminate that from the equation.

#31 10 years ago

Disconnected the coin door harness, no change in behavior.

Also, oddly enough, tried not playing the game at all.

Put in a credit, pressed start shot the ball and once it cleared the gate on the upper playfield I took the ball out of the game completely. After about a minute, the crowd sound effect engaged so you heard cheering, the score jumped to 1,000,100 and Black Knight says "I cannot fight you" as that trips the Replay score.

No switch was ever tripped (save the shooter lane) and the machine was not touched or bumped. In diagnostic mode, still no switch is showing as being open.

Any thoughts?

#32 10 years ago

Hot off the presses update:

If the "mystery" switch when the ball rolls down the left inside roller is pressed and I trip the corresponding "mystery" roll under switch on the ramp to the upper playfield, all of the backbox LCDs go out, none of the switches work, the game essentially hard locks and whatever sound is playing at the time loops for eternity, or until I shut the game off and turn it on again, at which point, everything appears fine and I'm able to start another round.

Which is fun...

Both of those switches test perfectly fine on their own, or in tandem, during diagnostics.

#33 10 years ago

Bumpity bump in case the update got missed.

Not sure if these symptoms are related or not. Wish I had a better grasp of troubleshooting the switch matrix. Also working on it when it's at someone else's house is tedious at best.

I should be able to update with a video in a bit.

#34 10 years ago

i have a good set of sys7 schematics in pdf if that helps you? ( 300dpi color not the usual blurry rubbish)

#35 10 years ago

I've got an original owner's manual and the schematics are in very good shape. But by all means, I'd love to see if there's anything you've got that I'm missing. Shoot me a PM.

Here's the video of the gameplay oddities I was talking about.

#36 10 years ago

Before I really start taking things apart and removing switches... my buddy asked if the behaviour I've detailed and recorded could be as a result of a problem on the PCBs and not due to faulty playfield wiring.

I said I was about 60% confident that the problem exists somewhere in and around the playfield, be it the wiring harness or a blown diode or faulty switch, but since I have so little experience dealing with this kind of problem, I figured I'd ask here.

Experts, if you had to hedge your bets and start troubleshooting this game in its current state (all other things being equal and knowing that I've run through the power supply board, MPU and driver boards) would you start looking at the playfield, or in the backbox?

#37 10 years ago

You can go into switch test mode and then remove the switch matrix connectors. Using the switch matrix chart, you can manually close each switch with a jumper wire.

#38 10 years ago

If I'm understanding you correctly, I believe I've already done that.

Quoted from RDM:

I then disconnected 2J2 and 2J3 from the driver board. Powered the machine on, put it into the switch test and since the playfield switches were disconnected, there were no switch conflicts/locks showing. I then went through and sequentially tested the switches from 1 to 46 via a jumper wire connected between the various pins on 2J2 and 2J3 successfully.

I ran through them from 1-46 without any errors. Each jumper combination correctly closed the associated switch as displayed in the test output LCD. To me that means the boards are working and the issue is with the physical components on the play field. But like I said, I'm inexperienced and was making sure before answering my friend that what I was claiming was actually correct.

#39 10 years ago

Ok, so it appears that the board is functioning correctly. Then you need to isolate the problems on the playfield.

First though, how is your 40 pin interconnect? How are the connectors for the switch matrix? I would make sure those are solid.

#40 10 years ago

40 pin interconnect has been entirely replaced with new kit. Connections for the switch matrix have not been replaced, but have had the solder re-flowed.

2 months later
#41 9 years ago

Going to bump this again with another question that may or may not be related to the switch matrix.

All the 7 segment displays test 100% perfectly during the system audit display test. During gameplay and while sitting in audit mode, the displays in the 1st player and game+credit windows have some segments that will flicker on or off and occasionally will not display their number altogether.

I'm currently assuming there may be an issue with the power supply board and will be replacing all the connections. I was also wondering if the odd random scoring behavior, may be as a result of an underlying power issue, and not one of the switch matrix at all? During games, sections of the display will flicker on and off and yet everything tests fine during the audit mode display tests.

Any thoughts?

#42 9 years ago
Quoted from RDM:

Going to bump this again with another question that may or may not be related to the switch matrix.
All the 7 segment displays test 100% perfectly during the system audit display test. During gameplay and while sitting in audit mode, the displays in the 1st player and game+credit windows have some segments that will flicker on or off and occasionally will not display their number altogether.
I'm currently assuming there may be an issue with the power supply board and will be replacing all the connections. I was also wondering if the odd random scoring behavior, may be as a result of an underlying power issue, and not one of the switch matrix at all? During games, sections of the display will flicker on and off and yet everything tests fine during the audit mode display tests.
Any thoughts?

More likely to be logic connector issues. Verify display plugs.

Power issue would show across every display.

#43 9 years ago

Cool thanks. Time to do some more soldering.

2 weeks later
#44 9 years ago

Yep check the display plugs on the CPU board they are at the top. I also suggest making sure that the top part of the CPU board is grounded properly. That if it's not making contact it can cause issues. Sometime the board can bend away from the metal which grounds the board.

#45 9 years ago
Quoted from RDM:

Any thoughts?

Play a game with 1 player. Only one display will be used. Probably no issue. Now play a 4 player game, Four displays in use = more power draw. Random flickering, missing digits, blank display. I have had this on 2 system 6-7 games, replaced the IDC connectors on the top of the MPU (1J5,1J6,1J7) with Molex crimp type and problem solved.

#46 9 years ago

As a quick update, I've completely removed every single .156" male connector on the MPU, Driver and Sound boards and replaced them with updated square pin new ones. The new and clean solder and appropriately long solder side tails look miles better than the original work. I should be able to test them out tonight.

I'll update later with the results.

Thanks for the continued input, it's always appreciated.

#47 9 years ago

The switch matrix diagram in the BK Manual is incorrect. It lists the primary trough switches left to right as 17,18,19. In fact they are 19,18,17. Make sure they are correct. This drove me to the brink of insanity. When I got my game someone had done the upgrade to microswitches in the multiball and ball troughs. I couldn't get multiball to start and the game would lose track of balls on the field. I'm guessing the game never worked right after that point and sat around until I bought it.

#48 9 years ago

So I've got some good news and some bad news.

Good news first: Repinning all the male connectors appears to have completely resolved the goofy display problems/signals that were plaguing previous testing. The half hour spent noodling around with the game produced absolutely no display errors or half-lit segments, which is great. I can cross that off my list of things that need seeing to.

Bad news: Repinning the connectors appears to have had no effect on the odd scoring problem. As before, the game will play normally for a time and then tack on an extra 1,000,000 or 3,000,000 points instantly.

Disclaimer: I haven't yet tested any of the switch matrix diodes, and I haven't replaced the female connectors that connect the switch matrix to the driver board.

I've included a video of questionable quality in an effort to help describe the problem. Jump to 34 seconds to see the errors and avoid hearing my son yell

Warning/apology, the angle and steadiness is a direct result of having only one available arm to hold my phone.

#49 9 years ago

Is it worth my time to try and test every single diode on all the switches do you think? Like my next step is either that, or replace some of the 740X chips on the driver board ... ???

#50 9 years ago
Quoted from RDM:

or replace some of the 740X chips on the driver board

You've already confirmed it's not a board problem, and you don't want to start shotgunning anyways.

To be honest I get a headache every time I read through all the posts, so please provide one post describing the current switch related problems you are having.

Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
$ 1,059.00
3,250
Machine - For Sale
Woodinville, WA
$ 959.00
Flipper Parts
Mircoplayfields
 
$ 36.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
 
$ 53.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
 
$ 69.00
Gameroom - Decorations
Pinball Pimp
 
$ 35.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Pinball Mod Co.
 
$ 35.99
Eproms
Matt's Basement Arcade
 
From: $ 33.00
Gameroom - Decorations
Rocket City Pinball
 
6,200
Machine - For Sale
Matthews, NC
Wanted
Machine - Wanted
Newcastle, OK
$ 18.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
 
$ 17.00
Playfield - Decals
Metal-Mods
 
From: $ 26.95
Playfield - Other
Hookedonpinball.com
 
$ 1,059.00
Flipper Parts
Mircoplayfields
 
4,500 (OBO)
From: $ 30.00
$ 69.00
Gameroom - Decorations
Pinball Pimp
 
$ 15.00
Playfield - Decals
Metal-Mods
 
$ 12.50
Playfield - Decals
Pinball Invasion
 
$ 18.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
 
From: $ 9.00
From: $ 5.75
Playfield - Other
Rocket City Pinball
 
From: $ 90.00
Tools
Pincoder Store
 
$ 39.99
$ 160.00
Cabinet - Toppers
Sparky Pinball
 
Hey modders!
Your shop name here
There are 131 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 3.

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/black-knight-system-7-switch-matrix-issues and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.