You definitely have a short in there. For a start look for anything shorting to GI sockets or wiring, anything that may have shifted and now causes problems.

LTG : )

Sorry, no. That action just adds to the dilemma. Unless the start button hits something it shouldn't.

LTG : )

I'd replace the fuse again and then instead of starting a game run the diagnostics. See if the fuse blows when running each test. This way you can isolate whether the problem is the interaction with controlled lamps, solenoids or switches.

viperrwk

Now is the fun part...

You could have a bulb socket shorted to ground or some other wiring. It's very common that when you twist in a #44/47 bulb you spin the socket and in turn spin the leg that you solder to.

Start by lifting up the playfield and following your GI circuit (braided wires stapled, or yellow wires usually, starting from one end to the other.

If you find nothing, then pull the bulbs you put in. Try again.

If still blows, then divide and conquer time. Pull the GI connectors off the P/S.. Still blow? if yes, you have a supply issue, if no, then reconnect the backbox GI. Still blow? If no its somewhere on the playfield. If yes, the backbox.

If blows when you hook the playfield, follow that hardness to the PF and walk it along.

Like I said, usually its a socket that twisted and shorted.

It's more of a problem on older machines where the socket is not stamped as tightly as it once was. I've done this spin/short thing on my BK before.

Well done sir! Glad you figured it out!

--BTW, that was not me, I would fess up if I had monkeyed with that.

That's a common fix for bad Bally light sockets. Sort of sloppy but I've been there many times fighting those @#$#@$# Bally sockets until I finally said screw it and started swapping them all out.

Corrosion gets between the barrel of the socket and the base, that short green wire jumps over the corrosion.

Fwiw, that is the same socket I've shorted out on my BK. Just below the upper left flipper. Mine just spun and shorted the trigger wire to the base. Just had to un-spin it.

Yep, the original problem is that the socket didn't work anymore because continuity from the tab to the housing degraded. He modded the socket so that the wire goes straight to the housing. That's one way to fix a dead Bally socket. The better way is to replace the socket with a new one, but when you're looking at a player game with 85 sockets and half of them are wonky, I understand when someone mods the socket instead.