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Quoted from Wmsfan:
Agreed- I hate the power switch location on the new Stern games. Plus when you have a pingulp cup in between it really sucks....
It's the worst. And the resulting lack of a service plug in the cabinet can be a major PIA on location. Whoever justified this should be fired.
Quoted from WackyBrakke:
The power switch in the head it literally the dumbest thing they ever did. What’s worse is they know we hate it and that it’s a bad idea yet they don’t do anything about it.
At one point we had to put a sign on the front of the head at our location for these Spike games so the waitresses could find the power switches to turn the games on/off. We had a SW there that never got turned on for about a week because of this.
Guys I was able to update my Pro yesterday no issues to 1.0 code.
However, I now notice that the castle fire effect isn't working properly for me, the fire just flashes on and off without any of the "smooth" fire transitions, etc.
My game is on location so I didn't note if it was okay prior to the code update or not.
Anyone else had this kind of issue with the castle fire?
Quoted from DS_Nadine:
Game on location is like that the whole time.
Sorry, are you saying that you have a location game that behaves the same way?
My game wasn't like this before, but I only noticed it after I did the 1.0 update. Just wanted to make sure nobody else saw it after they updated code in case it was a code issue somehow.
Quoted from DS_Nadine:
Try to install the update again. The thing I wanted to say was only that I think it's propably pretty easy a cable shakes loose so the the fire Panel won't work as it should. So I would check that if reinstaling the update won't change anything.
Ah I see. Well I did a Full Update with Verification so not sure if re-installing will do much. I also had a quick look at the wires going to that LED panel behind the backboard and all I noticed was a simple 2-wire power feed to it. I might have missed someting but it seems the fire effect is created via board in the panel itself, which maybe fails after extended use on location.
I'll give Stern support a call.
Quoted from TheRudyB:
Uhm ... by the way it was marketed.
Perhaps you never saw any of the marketing, but take a look at the teaser trailer that kicked off the anticipation:
Then again, perhaps you saw it and it made you LOL. And that's OK if it did.
No pinball game is ultimately serious. But, just as in movies, video games and other fictional stories/worlds, you suspend your disbelief when you enter. But there still needs to be a fairly consistent and logical set of parameters established and followed to allow us to continue to maintain that suspension of disbelief.
Steve may have talked for 18 years about creating a "Beige Knight." Cool. But the game I bought specifically says "Black Knight Sword of Rage" not "Beige Knight Sword of Miffed."
For those of us who grew up with Black Knight and Black Knight 2000 and love the lawful evil nature of the character, suddenly giving the Black Knight in Sword of Rage an increasingly cowering sense of humor in a code update is not Black Knight 3 - it turns the game into a Black Knight reboot. And that's not what was advertised and why I bought one.
But again: just make it an adjustment along with adding an adult option and everyone will be very happy because whoever comes to own a BKSOR can select the Black Knight's persona based on where they're operating the game, thus tailoring it to everyone from HUO family with kids to adults-only locations.
Perhaps the Black Knight has just been misunderstood all these years, and he's really a pretty swell guy!
Quoted from Lord_RyGuy:I set my speech attenuation to 5 and it sounds great. I equate it to lowering the "preamp" so it stops distorting and raising the volume of the "power amp" (by raising the main volume from the coin door) and it should be loud and clear.
This the is the answer. I don't have my settings in front of me but cranked down the callout levels by increasing the Speech Attenuation and increased the music via decreasing the Music Attenuation on my location game, so the callouts were less booming and overwellming and you could actually hear the rockin' guitar tunes.
Quoted from Draegermeister:
I changed all of the GI bulbs to warm white, because I thought the red really hid a lot of the art, and the cool white didn't look "Black Knighty" enough.
If I could make a BKSOR wish, I would ask Tim to code a "Warmer Colors" mode that made RAGE and WAR look more warm like the original Black Knight and Black Knight 2000 colors. KNIGHT is cool as it is.
Anyway, here's what it looks like with Titan Warm Whites. If you were considering it, and you hated it, you can thank me for saving you some time.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
So much better, it's not even close.
Did the same on my IMDN. I wish Stern would hire a light designer with a clue...
Quoted from DrJoe:
The flames in the back don't work if the insert brightness is set below 100%.
Wow - thanks for posting this. I thought my flame panel was defective!
I updated my code to 1.0 awhile back and noticed the flames weren't working properly anymore, just flashing on and off. I didn't make the connection between setting my insert brightness <100%. I will try restoring this setting to 100% and see if it fixes it for now.
Quoted from DugFreez:
I don't know. I gotta believe every LE game that Stern releases with the visible 5.25" speakers and the speaker surrounds were intended to be lit, but cut for cost. Why not pick up better than factory speaker lighting for those LEs?
Individual addressable RGB LED lighting with 358 different color / color transitions and adjustable brightness and speed. These "Deluxe SPIKE 2 - 5.25" Speaker Light Kits" should be listed soon at http://www.SpeakerLightKits.com
- Doug (SpeakerLightKits.com)[quoted image]
Which kit provides the speaker-only lighting like in your pic? The website ones all light up the entire speaker rectangle which I find unappealing.
Is anyone having issues with the top-left gate not opening to allow for a super-skill shot consistenly (Pro)?
On my game it works about 2/3rds of the time. Always been that way. I kind of figured it was a sw bug at first but now I'm not so sure.
Quoted from boogies:
I set my LED Insert brightness to 85% and max = 210.
Standard adjustments 72 & 73.
My flame panel stopped working. I believe it is non-dimmable LEDs.
After reverting back to 100% and 255, it started working again
Has anyone else had this problem / can someone else confirm? If it's not just me, maybe it could be added to next software update.
Quoted from DrJoe:
Yes, I found this a month or so ago and reported it on here somewhere. Hopefully it can be fixed with software.
Yep. I thought my fire LED had crapped out but it was the dimming setting. I never would have thought of it had I not seen drjoe 's post about it.
So, has anyone actually gone ahead and installed a second magna-save button in the side of the cabinet like science and Jebus intended?
I'm thinking of doing it to my pro. Sorry if someone did and I missed it.
Quoted from TheRudyB:
For those of us tall enough and gutsy enough, it's much better where it is - we can quickly activate Magna-Save at anytime without ever taking our fingers off the flipper buttons: we just briefly lean over and into the game a little more from our regular stance.
Without trying to visualize that too closely...
I'd leave the original button in-place as a visual indicator that MS is ready, but only wire the side button to activate it. If I wanted both buttons to work I'd have to create some kind of circuit that would isolate them so pressing either would trigger it. Hmm, that could be pretty confusing on location though... Ah well, Magna Save isn't for the weak minded.
Quoted from Mathazar:
I'll take a look - thanx for the clue. I've got a shaker in my machine as well and I know that has a tendency to loosen up some screws as well.
Pretty sure the shield coming loose is chronic issue, with the early builds anyway. Needs blue locktite applied to these screws.
Quoted from ezatnova:
wow, that’s crazy. Sure would think it would be related to the missing screw since I don’t see how that could just start out of nowhere. That’s a shame. I know it’s frustrating not finding that screw missing either. Unfortunately it may be from “under” or “in” something. I had a random tiny screw show up on mine and it ended up being under the plastics for the catapult, and it was one of the opto board screws...not good!
Not sure what’s up with this machine, but I’ve had to go through and loc-tite a TON on it, and I’ve had 3-4 screws randomly show up on the playfield. I’ve owned my AC⚡️DC vault for a year longer and NEVER had a single loose screw or anything on it. And both machines have shakers.
Yep. I just went through and re-tightened a bunch of the posts on the playfield in front of the flippers that had loosened off with play. Like a brand new game the rebounds off the posts are so fast and solid now.
Quoted from newtoit:
As far as code, dont get your hopes up and you wont be let down. I was a big advocate for this game but my enthusiasm has died. It is the best looking game stern has put out but the gameplay is lacking. It could be a great game if the code had more to offer. I own an LE and havent played it in atleast a month but i do enjoy looking at it.
I hope Tim isn’t tagged as the new Lonnie over this. Maybe he’ll surprise us all yet...
Is anyone having intermittent issues with the super-skill shot gate not opening when the left flipper button is held at plunge?
On my Pro it only seems to work about 50% of the time. I tested the gate in coil test and it seems to work reliably there so not sure what the problem could be. I originally thought maybe it was a sw bug.
Can anyone confirm if this is abnormal or not?
Quoted from Jediturtle:
I was getting an insane amount of airballs off the slings, misc posts, etc. Discovered that basically EVERY post in the game was loose. In some cases barely finger tight or less. Went through and tightened them all and it plays much better now. Still get an occasional airball, but no where near as bad. At minimum check your sling posts and the posts around the knight, ramps, etc. But it wouldn't hurt to check them all. Not sure what Stern is thinking, but they really need to check and follow their torque specs. Most of my newer machines have had this issue, but none quite to this extent.
This! My location pro has needed virtually every post and screw going into the playfield tightened.
- Shield fell off first, then the posts around the centre of the PF beside the knight all came loose. Games plays so much faster with these nice and snug.
- Then the ball guides next to the flippers came loose, and last week the flail started hitting the ramp. The entire knight assembly was loose and rocking in place. 4 giant machine screws with nylon nuts and it still worked its way that loose. Had to take the entire area apart to get at those and used blue-loctite on them.
- Finally the left spinner upkicker guide was flopping in the breeze.
I'm pretty sure they didn't tighten things down very well at the factory when these were being produced, possible due to the PF pooling and chipping issues?
In any case, definately check everything on your games and keep them nice and tight.
Those look great! Maybe a shade of purple that matches the backglass for the lighting?
Quoted from johnrezz:
Has anyone had an issue with the flail hitting the metal ramp? One of the balls on the flail is striking the center ramp but not the other... I had not noticed it until last night but it is causing a good amount of damage to the ramp.. I can also hear it hitting which I never heard before.. The knight is tight, the spring is tight and firmly attached. I tried to push the ball on the end of the spring but it did not budge, maybe it is coming loose or sliding off? Has anyone seen this?
Yes. The entire Knight assembly had come loose and was rocking on it's bolts.
Is it just my game, or does everyone's topper not obey the setting to disable it during attract mode?
Kinda of sucks since I like to leave my games on but not keen on the Knight wearing his gears out moving around all day for no particular reason.
Quoted from Lostcause:
I know a very good player who has an LE and he said and also others to get the prem/LE.
Played the LE but not a pro, seemed good to me.
I have heard people with pro’s say this too but none about for me to try
Ignorance is bliss, get the one you've been able to play and enjoy and forget about the other.
I recently bought the clear slings and ball guide set from PBL for $9.99. Can't beat that.
Not a fan of colored protectors due to the color-washing effect they have.
Quoted from crobi1017:
I’m assuming this isn’t normal and that I’m missing a spacer on one side of my flail, right? The ball freely moves between the end of the rod and the spring. See pics.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Yep, if by "spacer" you mean the black zip ties that Stern used for this purpose. Fortunately should be an easy fix, just apply a new zip tie.
Quoted from seah2os:
I had a loose flail ball and it scuffed the lower ramp directly under the flail. I cannot identify the ramp part in the manual. Working with Stern, but hard to replace when we can’t find a part number. It’s different that the Pro version Marcos offers because of the thunderbolt cutouts for the LED’s. They show the upper ramp, but not the lower. Anyone have a part number or suffered this ramp fate?
[quoted image][quoted image]
Mine did the same thing. I just live with it.
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