Anyone know where to buy an LE?
Quoted from DANGERTERROR:
I operate at a high traffic location. There are about 75 games. San Francisco. BK was the #1 earner in its first two weeks ever, which is cool.
The idea is that you can op with a protector to mitigate damage then remove it when you flip — or in my case, trade up for a premium. The pf is then minty, undimpled fresh. Maybe it’s even had some time to set and won’t dimple as much.
No one in all of the league nights, PAPA tournaments, or regular long hours play has ever noticed, commented on, or found a problem with the protectors on some games at this location. They are thinner now, too so most people haven’t even played on one. There is a Pinside/home use argument that’s totally valid against protectors. Doesn’t make any difference to me though. Would recommend for anyone in my situation (no one here).
Possibly not for this thread, but could you post exactly what you removed to install it? I am always looking for shortcuts when installing them.
I made a horrible mistake :/. I removed my upper play field to install a protector and upon reinstalling I broke one of the metal posts used to secure it . It seems that these posts are really soft aluminum and with barely any force it was able to sheer off the entire thread portion into the female post you screw into.
Does anyone know what posts are being used for the male and female versions? I can’t get to the female version right now because it is too hard to hold the upper play field while unscrewing it.
Quoted from DANGERTERROR:
Put a playfield protector on today. Very easy.
Remove: Flips, slingshot plastics, wireform, backboard (yes, the whole backboard). This will allow you to bend the pf protector into place. No hangup issues on this one.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I have a couple of additional comments to add to this (at least on my game).
- To remove the backboard, start by flipping the playfield up into the service position and slowly remove the three long wood screws going from the underside of the backboard into the backboard itself.
- Once those screws are removed, put the playfield back down and remove the four machine screws holding the backboard to the interior metal brackets. Be prepared to hold the backboard as it will drop once those machine screws are removed...also to note, the "ball gates" will come along with it which could scratch the plastic if you are not careful.
- When placing the protector, start at the VUK on the righthand side. Loop the protector around that VUK and then work the plastic until you can stretch it around and under the ramp at the back of the playfield. This seems impossible but carefully bending the protector without creasing it won't cause any harm.
- You will realize that the shield area and area under the spinner don't obviously fit. Again, carful bending will allow you to feed the protector right under these two items. I started with the shield and worked my way back to the spinner.
- Lastly, when replacing the upper playfield (if Prem or LE) be extremely careful in tightening the two hex posts which hold it in place. They seem to be aluminum and are easily snapped with a tiny big of pressure.
Hopefully this helps someone else .
Quoted from chuckwurt:
Best to just contact stern and get the exact one. But Marco has these as well. Just have to hope you can find the same size.
Stern said they would send me a few. They said you might be able to find them, but they aren't sure. The service guy (Chas) was super helpful and said he would just send them as part of normal warranty support. Now I just have to wait :/.
Has anyone noticed the back right plastic is bent? I assume Stern manufactured these incorrectly then just went with it?
After I put the upper playfield back on, I feel like I get a lot of rejects off the flail ramp. Before it seemed like it was butter smooth. I verified the flap is correct and the everything is lined up perfectly. How does everyone else’s work?
Has anyone with the catapult noticed that you cannot lock an ejected ball? For example, in multiplayer you may get your next ball from the catapult after locking your original ball. If you happen to perfectly time the new ball back into the catapult it just gives you another without counting the lock.
Is that a bug, or by design. I can see reasons for both.
Quoted from newtoit:
Straight from the Kings mouth.
I hope someone will post the following onto the BKSOR thread. Thanks.
Hey Guys, I have some fixes for a couple problems you guys have mentioned on Pinside:
Your Minion/Monster modes are set on difficult, and that's why you are frustrated! Go to game features adjustments. Adjustment #'s 21, 22, 23. 24, and 25 adjust the Worm, Hydra, Hell Hand, Magma Beast, and Lich Lords. Set them to Easy or Medium. I am not a good player and just completed 4 of them on Medium. There are not 3 levels to the modes. The modes are simple to achieve when set to factory Medium. Now we can calm down and enjoy some pinball!
To Anaraf, and anyone else who is having trouble shooting up the Flail lane to the upper playfield:
Power off. Take the glass off the playfield. Get a ball out of the trough. Level the Flail horizontally with your hand and rub the ball along both side walls and the floor *simultaneously* in the flail lane up and down from top to bottom. If you feel a click on the ball passing over one or more of the screws securing the flail lane floor, grab a #2 Phillips screwdriver and tighten them until you don't feel the click anymore. Screws sticking up too high will make it difficult to get the ball up to the upper playfield. The ball will slam into stuff on the the bottom of the upper playfield.
You could be having other problems with the flail lane, since you removed the upper playfield, which is no crime, but perhaps it didn't get fastened down correctly. Get a flashlight and see if you can see any obstruction in the ball's path up to the 180 degree scoop. You may have to take the playfield off again to see if wires or anything else are hanging down in the ball's path. Good luck!
Someone wrote that the Upper Playfield Cables running through the back panel don't all fit in the holes. Not true. If it were true, how did we ever build games and connect the connectors? The biggest connector goes in first, then the smaller cables on the left side. Form the wires coming out of the big connector to lay down parallel with the long edge of the connector a bit before you try this.
BKSOR definitely has flipper and other coil power adjustments! I suggest you use them before you alter your games.
Whip out your manuals and find all the adjustments you can make. There are more in BKSOR than ever before. Our engineers, Mark Guidarelli, Chuck Bleich, Tim Sexton and others have worked their butts off to advance our software and hardware. Put it to good use. Make your game fun for you, eliminate cranky posts, and enjoy your games as you like them.
Most of our games now have interlock switches on the coin door. When you open the door power is disconnected from the playfield. The interlock switch can be defeated for service by pulling it out (towards the coin door) a click. Voila! You can now enter diagnostics and make adjustments. Be careful.
Please read your manuals!
I am honored that I get a response from Mr. Richie himself.
On the flail ramp, I typically get the rejection inside of the 180 degree scoop. It will make a loud clank and the ball fires back with some decent force. It seems like it hits the bend, runs into something, and comes back.
It is really weird because it is wildly inconsistent. I’ve seen total dribblers make it whereas seemingly high speed shots will fail.
I am aware of the wires that pass overhead in that shot, so I have done my best to snug them up. They seem like they are out of the way, but it is hard to tell if a wild bounce off the ramp could be hitting them. I’ve filmed a couple of slow motion shots with my phone and it seems like the balls which are rejected always start by bouncing off of one of the side walls. I have to imagine that is increasing the risk of rejection.
As for flipper power, I did find that setting in the menu but it looks like you only get to select “low”, “medium”, or “high”. It looks like “high” is the default, so I am good there.
Different topic, I was also the one who mentioned that the big molex adapter didn’t fit through the backboard. After looking at it again, I believe you are correct. I think I could have squeezed it through that hole if I would have done them in order.
Thank you for the response! I am going to keep looking at that ramp like you suggested and make sure it is as smooth as possible. Part of me wondered if I should give that spring steel flap in the back a little downward bend so that it is as flush to the 180 degree scope as possible. I might mess with it a little more tonight.
Overall, fantastic game! I am really enjoying it! I bought this LE for my friends bar, but I am am thinking I will need a vault edition for myself in a few years .
Any updates on the code which is supposed to drop today...and the magic new physical addition I'll be instantly buying?
Quoted from Midway-Man:
LE V0.97 - June 19, 2019
- Fixed a timing issue which prevented players from getting credit for another
lock or super jackpot when the ball was released from the catapult lock and
- Fixed an issue which could infrequently cause the flail to move at a slow
speed when it should have been in the open position.
- Fixed an issue where catapult multiball would not award KNIGHT letters.
- Fixed an issue where the Ball Saved animation could show when the ball was
- Improved handling of outlane ball save during situations where multiball
ball saver is active or in grace period.
- Modified the Extra Ball light show to keep all the GI on.
- Modified the Triple Knights lock light shows to include backbox lamp
- Changed the relight shots in Lich mode to the same color as unfreeze shots.
- Changed the rules for WAR and RAGE lanes to keep the same lanes lit for a
player on their next ball in play.
- Reduced the amount of time the flail stays in open position after being hit
in Catapult Multiball.
- Volume Adjustments and Tweaks.
- Install Competition Mode sets
- LAST CHANCE MODE ENABLED to NO
- PLAY BLACK KNIGHT INTRO to NO
- Added RANSOM Wizard Mode
- Lit by spelling KNIGHT a second time in a single game.
- Started by shooting the left VUK.
- Classic Black Knight 2000 Sounds, Speech, and 14-Segment Display.
- Timed 60 Second 3-Ball Multiball. The ball saver does not expire.
- +5x Bonus
- FLAIL = MILLIONS
- ORBITS = 750,000
- WAR = MILLIONS
- EXTRA BALL IS Lit
- EVERYTHING IS LIT
- Added LAST CHANCE feature
- To Qualify Last Chance:
- Player must be on their last ball in play.
- Player cannot have played a Catapult Multiball.
- Player must drain down the left outlane with no ball save lit OR
- Player must drain down the right outlane and press the magna-save button
before the ball drains.
- Timed Mode where the goal is to re-lock balls in the Catapult Lock.
- Lower Flippers are Disabled.
- Player gets unlimited balls served for the duration of the mode.
- Player controls the launching of balls into play.
- Completing RAGE lanes adds time and builds jackpot base.
- Shooting the Light Locks target adds time and builds jackpot base.
- Player must lock 3 balls in the Catapult Lock to start SUPER MULTIBALL.
- Time remaining gets added to the jackpot base.
- If the player cannot lock 3 balls, their game ends.
- Added SUPER CATAPULT Multiball
- 4 Ball Multiball, with new display art and lamp effects.
- Base value of multiball jackpots set during Last Chance.
- Locking a ball in the Catapult Lock sets jackpot multiplier to 2x until
the ball is released.
- Locking 2 balls in the Catapult Lock sets jackpot multiplier to 3x until
the balls are released.
- Added light shows for War Hurryup shots and War Hurryup Complete.
- Added speech for Extra Ball, Extra Ball is Lit, and Shoot Again.
- Added additional speech calls for mode intros.
- Added light show for Match sequence.
- Added shaker motor to the game intro when the Black Knight screams.
Moved to System 2.30:
Update Italian translation of "ENTER INITIALS" to "INSERISCI LE TUE INIZIALI"
That all sounds pretty cool. What is the physical item?
Quoted from NeilMcRae:
great job from Stern last night on showing the new code and for Steve/Tim and the other team members to give us his feedback directly, its so refreshing to see that! Looking forward to playing the new code tonight.
Where do you see this? Is this part of the Stern insiders thing?
How is the upper play field holding up for everyone? I have about 550 balls played and a playfield protector up there. The protector is already showing quite a bit of wear which I would have imagined would have show on the play field without it…unless the protector is softer, which might be the case.
Quoted from Bagdad:
Is it normal that my flail look a bit rough? I thought it would look polished like a pinball, but it actually look a bit like rough material?[quoted image]
Mine looked like that out of the box. I imagine they are a bit textured as it is just going to get beat up over time.
Quoted from ercvacation:
Truthfully I love the game. Lots of haters out there but I own the premium and can't stop playing it. Extremely well done. Great shots! Great rules! Multiballs are easy to achieve but tough to master to get the big jackpots. Mode stacking is excellent. Its a tough game with some brutal drains but you need to learn the game and the shots. Once you do you realize how well this thing was put together. This game is the total package. The music fits this game so well. No complaints on this game from me.
I’ll second this. I really love my #tna after a year and this pin feels really similar to me.
Quoted from Indypin:
I love love love my BK3 pin. I was fortunate enough to get a DP Pro and and IMDN Premium at the same time and I play BK3 more than the other two and that's saying something because the other (2) are excellent pins.
Anyway, a quick question. I was FINALLY able to get a (6) ball multiball going and on both occasions the game tilted on me. Now I suck as a pinball player and I wear it like a badge of honor, but one thing I don't do is shake my pins. I did finally take out the tilt bob in the game and I haven't reached that multiball yet, but I was wondering if anyone has this problem.
Also, I didn't even notice the extra piece of mylar included in the plastic baggie. I saw Steve Ritchie talk about installing it with windex and how to smooth it out, so does it go on the upper playfield like another pinsider asked about and is it really needed if my pin will only be HUO? I recall Mr. Richie saying he would put it on, so just curious.
I noticed the tilt can be sensitive, but that said I think mine was too tight. I dropped it down and it seems to be fine now. I never had the issue related to multiball.
I am putting my LE on location this weekend and I swear I am thinking about buying another just for my house. I am shocked at how much I like this game. I think it is an excellent pin!
Quoted from wlf_:
Wouldn't be surprised if a Pro would do significantly less in coin drop though. There was both a Pro and a Premium on location here for a month, and people gradually went from the pro to the premium until the pro wasn't getting much play at all.
I agree, I'd wanna keep that LE for myself. The upper playfield, even if it is exploitable at the moment, adds an element that ups the replay value
I should have filed that comment under “nobody cares” I just really wanted to express my appreciation of this game. As for the location, it is a safe spot. I put playfield protectors on it, and I am pretty confident that it will be just fine.
I do baby my machines a bit, but I understand they are designed to be used. I assume anything which could logically be broken or worn down on the LE I could restore or replace back to perfection. I also feel like the LEs should be out for people to play sometimes. I get they are designed for collectors, but again I struggle to feel like they need to be in a glass box for years. I assume this game will get a Vault edition which will be even more impressive in two years?
Anyway, my point was that I really like this game. I highly suggest everyone who enjoys pinball give it an hour of play and get to know some of the shots. It is a great game…so great that I would consider buying two!
Quoted from Wmsfan:
Is this the new plastic that's supposed to help out?
That looks like the part that goes behind the knight and supports the upper playfield. I don't think that it is related to whatever the new service post is. I could be wrong.
Quoted from TREX:
Point on upper PF decals. The nakedness of the upper playfield drop scoop. Two nice fireball decals on the two other ball drops and nothingness on the ball drop from the start....... Why would Master Stern eek out of this very minor but important detail?[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I think it is supposed to be a sword? At least that is what I am going to tell myself now that you pointed it out.
Quoted from Robertstone0407:
Anyone else noticed the right flipper getting weak on the LE and premium
I still find that ramp shot to be a nightmare after playing for anything more than 15 minutes. It is possible, but becomes very difficult . I honestly don’t know what could be the problem. If I could boost the flipper power by 5%, I would think this completely goes away.
My leg levers are all the way up in case anyone is wondering.
Quoted from splitcms:
Is it essential to put the playfield protector on the upper playfield? Will it eventually “fog” up over time if not? Just got a premium over the weekend. Thank you
I’ve asked about this before and didn’t get any responses. I will tell you that the play field protector actually caused marking on my upper play field. I am not sure if this is better or worse than it would have been. My theory is that it is better because the ball can’t cut into the plastic, but I don’t know. I would love to see some pictures.
PSA for Premium and LE owners using Playfield Protectors: After quite a bit of testing I have determined that it is best to cut the protector shy of the flail ramp. I believe that the plastic allows for the ball to lose momentum after bouncing off of the sides of the metal ramp.
I modified mine and I am now very happy with the performance.
There is a bug whereas you can get the extra ball unlocked animation after draining your ball. I wish I could reproduce it, but I've seen it twice during multiball. It is an epic f-u when it happens .
Quoted from ezatnova:
Another quality control thing for people to check.
Kept looking through the rule guide for why the black knight target only counted one out of every two or three hits, but couldn’t find anything.
Finally looked up close and sure enough, the target was mounted so that the right side was jammed into the post rubber just to the right of it. So the target could only physically register if you happened to hit it hard and way on the left side.
Corrected the target and much better now! It actually counts when I hit it.
Before and after pics[quoted image][quoted image]
I had that same thing on my game when it was right out of the box! I loosened the screws underneath and moved the target a little to fix it.
Quoted from Ed209:
Anyone happen to know the part number for the two hex spacers that lock down the upper playfield? I must of had a brittle one, male end just snapped as I started to screw it in.
I did the same thing! You have to contact stern because they aren’t for sale anywhere. They sent me one for free. From now on I will only hand tighten it because it takes very little force to break off. In the interim you can use a screw. It is the same style of threading. I can figure out the exact screw it that would help you.
Quoted from November:
I love my BKsor Pro and Steve work, but i wanted to try something to add a bit of variety and beauty in the game.
What do you guys think about that ?
Still a prototype and not playable for the moment[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I don’t have a pro, but if I did I would be really interested in this! Super cool mod to actually change the gameplay a bit.
Quoted from javagrind888:
I really want those, but I'm not sure I'd be willing to take off the upper playfield to install them.
The upper playfield is super easy to remove. I think it is like 5 total screws. That said, I recommend hand tightening the posts as I very easily snapped one when I put it back together with a nut driver.
Quoted from mnpinball:
What’s the thoughts on this enhancement assembly kit 502-7103-00 from Stern for the BK premium/LE, is it worth putting on or leave it off ?[quoted image]
Quoted from mnpinball:
What’s the thoughts on this enhancement assembly kit 502-7103-00 from Stern for the BK premium/LE, is it worth putting on or leave it off ?[quoted image]
Like others, I think it simply automates something you can do yourself. I don’t notice my upper playfield being any “easier” since installing it. If anything It gives you a new wait time after a loop shot.
I know some people hate them, but the playfield protector works really well for this game.
So my “ball launch” coil seems to be a little lazy all of a sudden. I cranked the coil power to 255 and it is now working, but anything shy seems to put me half way up the ramp. Anyone know what could cause that?
I did a tournament last night and noticed that when the game is in tournament mode it still awards extra balls. Is that normal? There was no configuration for this in the tournament start/stop UX.
My friend just got his BK and he has that upper flipper issue happening. I can’t remember what the fix was for this. Does anyone have a link to the instructions that fix they released?
No, unfortunately that doesn’t look like it. I thought there was a service bulletin where the upper playfield flipper was basically assembled in the wrong order. I recall it needing something like a plastic washer or a disassembly to stack the parts in the correct order.
Thank you and bagdad for the responses. I’ll keep looking. Also he will contact stern tomorrow.
Quoted from Mathazar:
There was a service bulletin for one of the plastic pieces in the upper playfield, but I don't recall one specifically for the stacking order/missing washer for the upper playfield flipper. On my machine, the washer was there but stacked in the wrong order (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/black-knight-swords-of-rage-club-honourable-knights-only/page/37#post-5367034).
Here's some text from Steve Ritchie himself that someone posted earlier in this thread:
If a ball is stuck behind the upper right flipper on the white plastic “ironing board” shaped plastic, you are missing the metal washer in the “flipper stack” consisting of a 2” long clear small diameter spacer, a fat white nylon spacer, a metal washer between the fat spacer and the ironing board from bottom to top. Some games got out without the metal washer. Use a metal washer (with a ¼” inner diameter, and just about any outer diameter under ¾”) and insert into the stack on the flipper shaft between the fat nylon spacer and the ironing board. Here’s how to do it:
* You do not have to remove the plastic upper playfield.*
Remove all 6 balls from the lower trough. Carefully lift the playfield and stand it up against the backbox making sure that it is stable, (check the manual) then loosen the upper right flipper shaft clamping block (on the bottom of the wood playfield) with a 5/32” hex (Allen) wrench allowing a bit of rotational and up and down movement of the flipper shaft. Use your manual to locate assemblies if you don’t know the names of the parts I’m mentioning.
Lay the playfield back down on the playfield support brackets. Pull the playfield toward the front of the game until the round rubber feet on the playfield support brackets are securely in the hand protector trough. Carefully prop up the rear of the playfield with an 18” long piece of 2X4 or other prop using the cabinet floor and a blank spot on the bottom of the playfield so that the entire flipper stack is visible and within your reach from the right side of the game.
Slowly pull the loosened flipper shaft upward, freeing up the different parts of the flipper stack, and removing them carefully. Remove the flipper shaft pulling upward. When you have the flipper removed from the game, slide the ironing board on the shaft, then slide the new metal washer up the shaft under the ironing board, then the fat white nylon bushing, then the clear plastic bushing onto the shaft, and feed the lower tip of the flipper shaft through the plastic upper playfield and back into the flipper bushing on and through the lower wood playfield. Guide the ironing board into the flipper-shaped hole in the plastic upper playfield. Remove the playfield prop and lower the rear of the playfield onto the playfield cabinet rails. Carefully lift the playfield and stand it up against the backbox while holding the upper right flipper in place. Feed the flipper shaft through the flipper clamp block and tighten just enough so that you can still rotate and move the flipper up and down in the clamp block.
Next, the goal is to have zero up and down play in the upper right flipper assembly. Locate the plastic flipper body over the ironing board and aligned the flipper with it on all sides. Push down on the flipper and up on the clamping block until there is zero up and down movement of the flipper. Tighten the hex screw with the 5/32” Allen wrench lower the playfield back into the company and check for flipper alignment and up and down end play. The ball will no longer stay stuck behind the upper right flipper. There will still be enough up and down play due to the flexiblity and softness of the plastic parts in the stack.
This was it! TY.
Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside