Quoted from ezatnova:
Just did them myself this weekend. Very nice looking.
I did have issues with the speaker plates (which are now 1/2” father “out” than before, due to being mounted on the lights) hitting the black plastic strips that block light from bleeding through. I had to trim them a bit and mount them back in the backbox a bit further. Still wasn’t perfect and takes a bit more pressure to close the speaker box, but it seems to work just fine. Tried every which way to adjust the frame/speaker plate etc and it just barely contacted those plastic strips each time.[quoted image]
I believe it is the speaker plates (now being mounted back farther) rubbing against the 2 nuts that hold the speaker panel to the bottom of the backbox. Stern originally used Keps nuts there, but then changed to thicker nylon insert nuts (which made them rub on the speaker plates a bit more).
Make sure the nuts are positioned with the flat part of the hex nut running parallel with the speaker plate and NOT with the point of the hex nut toward the speaker plate. This may take a little loosening or tightening of each nut to get them lined up as good as they can be. This will allow the panel to close easier (though it will still probably rub a bit when closing).
I am working on having my next run of replacement speaker plates, as well as my upcoming 5.25" speaker plates, to have a small notch there to accommodate where the nuts are. That won't really help most users, as they are usually using the factory speaker plates, but for people doing other speaker upgrades and using my replacement speaker plates, it should make it so the panel closes completely unobstructed.
Glad to hear your bent CN9 pins weren't an issue.
Doug (SpeakerLightKits.com)
Nut bad (resized).jpgNut good (resized).jpg