(Topic ID: 172937)

Black Knight Strobe Lamp Power Resistors

By Spoon1223

7 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 10 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 years ago by Schwaggs
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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#1 7 years ago

Checking with you all before I begin digging into things. Seems like I had read somewhere that this was normal for this machine. Before I get very far in it I figured I would double check.

I've got a Black Knight with resistors on the strobe lamp circuit (R149 thru R156) that run hot. The outer coating is flaking off and there are times I can smell them while the game is on. The driver board is discolored in that from the heat as well.

These are found on the driver board schematic page.

Should these be running so hot? If not, where's a good place to start looking? At the voltages?

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#2 7 years ago

Actually, yes, they do run very hot.
One thing to look at is the outlet you have the game plugged into. If it's a 15 or 20 Amp circuit, should be ok. If it's a 10 amp, and you have a few machines plugged into it, that might ask the machine to work a little harder.

I am by no means an expert, and may be wrong about that.

I'd say ad a GI fuse block, but I don't know if that will help the heat.

You can also switch the machine over to MOSFETs, which eliminate the heat entirely. Vid has a guide for upgrading driver boards on Williams Sys 3-7 (also works on 9).
If you like, switch out the feature lamps to run LED's. This will help your power consumption.

Others may have much better information.

#3 7 years ago

Those resistors do get hot. Check out pinwiki for upgrading those resistors:

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_3_-_7#Controlled_Lamps_.28Lamp_Matrix.29

#4 7 years ago

if you use a mosfet like FQP17P06 as the lamp column driver, the big current limiting resistors that get smoking hot are not needed and you can replace them with 1/4w resistors.

#5 7 years ago

As the others have said, those resistors are part of the Lamp Matrix circuit and do get very hot. You have 2 options, both mentioned here already:

1) Replace them with new, higher wattage resistors
2) Replace the associated transistors with MOSFETs.

I use option 2 as it GREATLY reduces the heat produced by the board which lowers the temp in the backbox which is better for all the boards as well as the backglass, etc.

I use IRF9Z34N to the column drive (the transistors next to the burned resistors).
I use IRFZ34N for the row drive.

If you use MOSFETS, you can replace the burned resistors with jumper wires or zero ohm resistors

#6 7 years ago

Thank you all for your replies.
I'll look into this and make the corrections to the board.
I've got a beautiful, NOS backglass that is in perfect condition. I'll keep it that way and get rid of the heat all together.

#7 7 years ago

Okay, I got the FQP17P06 transistors (couldn't find the IFR9Z34N).
Wanted to verify: with these in place I can pull the old resistors and replace them with a 0 ohm or a jumper wire?

#8 7 years ago
Quoted from Spoon1223:

Okay, I got the FQP17P06 transistors (couldn't find the IFR9Z34N).
Wanted to verify: with these in place I can pull the old resistors and replace them with a 0 ohm or a jumper wire?

I think you still want to have a current limiting resistor in there. At least in some kind of "oh shit" situation a limiting resistor might burn itself open instead of burning something else.

Use a 1/4w resistor in a low ohm range. Like 22-270 ohm.

#9 7 years ago

Perfect. Makes sense. Thanks again!

#10 7 years ago
Quoted from Spoon1223:

Okay, I got the FQP17P06 transistors (couldn't find the IFR9Z34N).
Wanted to verify: with these in place I can pull the old resistors and replace them with a 0 ohm or a jumper wire?

That is because I typoed the part number DOH! Its actually a IRF9Z34N (I fixed my earlier post).

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