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(Topic ID: 222299)

Black Knight Right Flippers Inop-Need Help


By MrWizzo

2 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 15 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by MrWizzo
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 2 years ago

Trying to help a neighbor here on Emerald Isle, NC. Unfortunately, I have zero experience with this era of games. Manual does not seem accurate. No boards match.

Any help diagnosing the problem would be helpful. Thanks.

Dan

#2 2 years ago

Verify your EOS switches are operational, and that you have voltage to the coils. Search the Black Knight Club for more tips on the flippers.

#3 2 years ago

You've been here for 6 years and think this is a good enough description to get helpful advice?

What have you looked at? checked voltages yet? taken pics? C'mon man!

#4 2 years ago

How can the manual not be accurate?

The flippers work the same way all non-solid state flippers work.

#5 2 years ago
Quoted from MrWizzo:

Manual does not seem accurate. No boards match.

Maybe you have a Black Knight 2000 manual?

#6 2 years ago

Thanks Bill.

Zacaj, found many inaccuracies in manuals over twenty years of collecting. For example, his manual designates flipper connections on a P board not what is the J driver board.

BK, thanks for the reply, obviously no good deed goes unpunished. Have done nothing since I dont own the game and do not want to work on it since nothing has made sense to me. For example, does this system have flipper RAM? I thought I read it does
No idea about that. If you are part of the solution, happy to have your help.

Smitty, no, seems to be an original. Thanks.

Dan

#8 2 years ago
Quoted from MrWizzo:

Zacaj, found many inaccuracies in manuals over twenty years of collecting. For example, his manual designates flipper connections on a P board not what is the J driver board.

P and J are for Plug and Jack. They don't refer to boards.

Quoted from MrWizzo:

For example, does this system have flipper RAM?

What is flipper RAM?

#9 2 years ago

He probably means flipper roms like green etc.

#10 2 years ago

Lloyd, thanks. Had looked at that and of course section 4.10 Flippers was empty!

Zacaj, I will take a pic of the manual and the boards and post them so you can see what I may be misinterpreting.

Travis, yes, rom, not ram. Typo.

#11 2 years ago

Ah. Yes, it does have "flipper roms", but the "flipper" in that is just to differentiate from things like puck bowlers. They have nothing to do with the actual flippers, so no need to worry about that.

You'll see references like "2J3" and "2P3". the 2 refers to the board, with board number 2 being the driver board, board 1 being the mpu, and 3 being the power supply. the 3 refers to the connector on the board. J means it's a jack (header pins) on the board, P means it's a plug (connector housing) that plugs into the board.

As far as the playfield solenoid wiring diagram goes, this is going to be the most important part:Capture (resized).PNG

Is it both flippers on that side, or just one? If it's just 1 that narrows it down. Otherwise it's standard troubleshooting stuff. Do they have voltage, if you ground them do they fire, checking continuity between connectors, etc

#12 2 years ago

Zacaj,

Thanks for the explanations. Very helpful.

It is just the right side. Gonna try and grab some time with the game today. Will report back.

Dan

#13 2 years ago
Quoted from MrWizzo:

It is just the right side.

Read Clay's response on RGP.

LTG : )

#14 2 years ago

Yes, I did. Thx, Lloyd

1 week later
#15 2 years ago

Finally got the game in order.

Smitty, you were right. The game is a BK2K. When I first looked at it, I guess I was not at my best it being a little over a month since having had a major "widows maker" heart attack on June 8. Missed some details when I first looked at the game.

It was a process of step by step, which seemed be uncovering next weakest link in the chain once one got fixed.

Cleaned and gapped the cabinet and EOS switches as suggested, which brought life back to the game.

Flipper flutter developed, and blue spark evident on lug where hold coil attaches. Resoldered the wire and diode, reinstalled but still wasn't right. Clipped the diodes and they tested .8 each, above the .4 to .6 range, so I just replaced the coil.

Game would play fine for twenty minutes or even longer and F5 fuse would still blow intermittently.

Inspected the right upper flipper and found that there was no heat shrink tubing on the arm of the pawl that opens the EOS switch. Wrapped the arm of the pawl well with electrical tape (short term fix I know until rebuild kits installed), and the game seems to behave. Gonna pick up some 2A slo blo fuses today at a parts house nearby where I have Cardio rehab, and the game should be set.

Until the next link in the chain reveals itself.

Played it a long time yesterday with no blown fuses, cleaned it up as best I could without fully shopping it and my neighbor has a fully working game now and was very appreciative. He has helped me over the last years with issues of our home here in NC where we are absent, and it was good to be able to bless him in a unique way. Next summer, I will fully shop it for him.

Thanks to those who helped.

Dan

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