Slowly over the past year I've begun resurecting an old abused and used BK. Like many games from the era it has shown it's share of ware and tear.
Here I plan to document and hopefully help others as well I seek help as you see fit in comments on my progress and questions.

First up is the back box.
Cabinet
I have another thread under playfied where I installed a hardtop on a badly worn, planked and bare playfield.

First up are some baseline photos showing the back box. I thought I would start with it first since I could quickly knock it out with the time I had.

Weather here has been great the past few weeks so I wanted to take advantage of warm December days. Black Knight PinballPimp

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I had planned to just use a orbital sander and sand the paint off. However Jeff at Pinball Pimp shared a post a while back detailing how you can quickly remove the paint using paper towels and Acetone. Opting for a quick strip, I went this route and found it to be very efficient. Soaking some shop paper towels in Acetone and laying them out on the painted surface I was able to remove all the pain in about 15 min. Soak and wipe. That easy.

The blue towel is soaked in acetone, leaving a surface ready to sand and fill. Lots of work ahead.

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In other wood projects I've had pretty good luck with automotive bondo as a filler and for building up corners. Hopefully it will work here too. Several corners were rounded or missing wood etc.
A couple of examples of repair and some filler primer tests. The entire back box was prepped in this manner, sanded and primered using Rust-Oleum sandable filler primer. I used a small palm orbital sander for the bulk of the work as well as a block for finishing edges.

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I failed getting shots of the painted back box. For paint I used Rust-Oleum semi gloss black. I did not use the 2x, just the basic "Professional" large format cans with a spray paint holder/handle. Several coats were applied, with light sanding between.

I also used the basic Rust-Oleum spray Yellow paint.

For stencil application please refer to the instructions provided by Jeff at Pinball Pimp. He has excellent instructions and videos. I found the application to go well, with no issues removing the stencil. It was about 68 when I applied the paint and let the box warm prior. Since it was cooler I let it sit about 3-4 min before beginning the removal of the film. Everything came up just fine. I had a few slips with paint on my finger will will need to do some final touch up, the second side went much better. It's starting to look like a back box that is worthy of sitting in the home game room once again. It's not perfect by any stretch but I'm not sure I'd ever get it perfect

More to come...

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Last day of warm weather here in Oklahoma for a while, so knocked out one side.

All good things to say about using Pinball Pimp stencils, so far I've had ZERO issues! Love it.

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Thanks. Hardest part was taking the first step. If ever have questions. Fire away. I also have a hard top thread. Carey Hardy has a great YouTube series doing a hard top on a bk also.

I should have used more filler primer in retrospect. It’s stil; far better than it was. I applied two coats of black.

Corner jig was just some scraps and clamps. The removed of course. Let it setup but not fully dry. The biggest hurdle was just jumping in and starting.

I've taken a break as weather just hasn't been conducive to painting. I've thought seriously about having it cleared once complete. Really recommend the acetone and towel method. It's quick and easy. Sure you have to still sand the wood but it just wipes off. Giving a ready to work surface to prep. Probably won't be any updates until spring. Thanks for the comments.

Hey I'm back at the BK. Finished some household projects so it's time for Pinball.

Cabinet work: Debated redooing the inside but after talking to ryanbrooks and brother I felt I had to. I'll not bore you with the photo documentation. Overall everything inside was in good dirty shape. I always enjoy seeing what you find in a cabinet, this one didn't disappoint. Of course the typical nuts, bolts, and bulbs. Random old Eveready battery and this one had the factory mylar envelope with mylar. Bonus, a vending sticker from Lawton, OK with an expiration of 4/1983!

Process:
Learned a lot from the head box, and over this past few months I've been painting new laundry room cabinets. So what what does that have to do with a pinball machine?? Well I've really grown to like the Sherwin Williams line Emerald Cabinet paint. The biggest take away on this paint is that it will lay really flat, I sprayed, rolled and broshed it. Pretty sure you can put it down with a wire brush and it will lay flat. Pefect for a pin cabinet! Oh it's durable too. I need to test it for compatibility with my rattle cans But it should be fine.

Ok few pics of what we are working with.

Next steps:
Start paint removal
Black Knight

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Few outside cabinet pics before I strip it.

Back box support was broke loose. Some clamps and Tightbind makes this quick work.

It’s interesting as we approach a cabinet refinish yiu have to decide to what level you will go. We have to remember these cabinets were built quick and to make money. Not sit in collections at someone’s home. Here’s an example of ply that was splintered as it was being cut. So do you fill it to perfection or leave as it is? You the restorer gets to decide.

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A bit of inside painting.

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Too kind Ryan. You guys are always a breath of air when I visit. It’s never perfect, in the end it will be round decades more. I should have hit the inside with some 180 to knock it down. Still looks better. I’ll post up some updates this afternoon.

Short update. Sides have been stripped. Started sanding and added a guide coat to identify low spots etc.

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I tried rolling this with a foam roller. Knew better. Green Mohair 1/4” is only way to go. Or spray it. So we sprayed.

Paint: Sherwin Williams Emerald Trim
Sprayer: Graco VSP airless.

This paint really lays flat. Youcan apply it with a wire brush and get good results. It’s expensive but it works. Dries like an oil base but cleans with water.

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Live me some Evaparust.

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No the pics are just after I shot it. It laid down really flat once it dried. I came across the paint doing some cabinets for our laundry room. That's what I really liked that it will flatten right out. I'll post some updated dried pics this week.

BK did have one small area maybe 4" that was a bit lower. Only thing you can do is try to build it up but I'm not good at that. I do like to use a automotive filler primer that helps. I'll fill any gouges with epoxy resin, then finish with some glaze if warranted.

This has some hours in it, not sure I can find anyone to afford it! We can work out something.

So the sides look really good. But the front i shot vertical and there does appear to be some slight orange peel still. I’ll give it a day to cure then wet sand. I’ll thin the paint about 10% give it time to level a bit better. It’s pretty warm here so that should also help going theu the sprayer.

Thanks for the comment.

Quick update, I wasn't happy with the finish in some areas. Sanded it down from 400-2000, reapplied and still not happy. I've shot this brand in this gun with great results on some cabinets. However that was satin and this is gloss. Not sure if that is the issue. So sanded again and tonight applied with 1/4" Purdy Parrot Mohair roller, I've used this as well in past and it gives a nice flat smooth finish. 12" roller for the cabinet makes quick smooth work using the wet edge method of roller. It's going to need to cure at least 2 weeks before I decide to stencil. More to come.

Left side!

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This is it. It’s painted. Now to begin the assembly. Thanks all for following.

Resources
PinballPimp stencils
Sherwin Williams Emerald cabinet paint for base
Rust Oleum Sunburst Yellow and Regal Red

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Thanks dude, can't wait for you to see it in person and play it.

As soon as my No Fear is done, gotta sell dads investments! LOL. Did you see it?