F2 on the power supply board may be blown. It's a 2.5 amp slo-blo fuse. Remove it from the fuse holder and check it with a meter. If it is bad, I'd suggest checking all coils under the playfield (except the flippers, which are on a different circuit). Make sure the wires are firmly attached to the coils and that the solder lugs on the coils are not touching metal or anything. If everything looks ok under the playfield, then try replacing the fuse. Fuses usually blow for a reason, so even if replacing the fuse fixes it, you may not be out of the woods just yet. Let us know how it goes!

I've been fooled trying to eyeball whether a fuse is good. Sometimes it's obvious, sometimes it isn't. As a rule, i would always recommend testing with a meter to be sure. You can get a cheap meter at harbor freight/HD/Lowe's or Amazon. You'll want to get one that has an audible (buzzer/beep) continuity test, it makes it much easier when testing fuses, bulbs etc. I always recommend pulling the fuse out of its holder for testing, too. You may have better luck finding the correct replacement fuse at an electronics store like radio shack, but HD/Lowe's may have what you need. You'll want to make sure they're "MDL" aka "slow-blow" fuses. I'm sure you can find some videos online demonstrating how to test fuses with a meter.

Here's a link to the fuses: https://www.radioshack.com/products/radioshack-2-5-amp-250v-1-x-sb-fuse-4-pack?variant=20332268677

Here's a link to a basic meter that should suffice: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00Y245JRE/ref=pd_aw_sim_sbs_469_of_15

Be sure to follow up if you have any further questions or updates!

Check the wiring and diode to the switch. Test all other switches in the same column and row as that switch in the switch test. It could be a broken wire or diode on one of the other switches on the same row or column as that one (which could cause that switch not to work even if the switch/wiring/diode all check good)...