I've got a BK that I had all intents to restore, but alas, my business has kept me too busy and it's time to let it go. I have no idea how to value it as it is all in pieces (how I received it to begin with).

Details:

New CPR Playfields
New CPR Plastic set missing one plastic but have the old one
Two working board sets
Refinished cabinet with new back and luan bottom. Average stencil job on cabinet, head needs redone
New Mayfair mirrored Backglass
All the metal parts, side rails, coin door, powdercoated gray sparkle

All the parts are accounted for as far as I can tell, just needs a complete reassembly. The previous owner started populating the playfield, but I would probably start it over myself and clean up the wiring harness a bit.

I hate to part it out and I know I'd get more money if I did, but I'm hoping a BK lover wants to restore it back. Any idea as to what would be a fair price for something like this?

I don't want to ship...any locals feel free to PM me if interested.

Awesome....can't wait to see it, although I'll probably want to buy it back!

Why would you think that? If you remove the 'board' connector and the problem goes away wouldn't that lead you to believe the board is the problem? I'd be looking at Q1 (predriver) or Q2 (power) transistors which drive solenoid 17 the left kicker. That's assuming that the connector you are removing is 2J12.

Yes, the pre-drivers often go bad....Test Q1. Don't shotgun your board and replace parts without testing them. Everytime you heat your board with an iron you are stressing the traces, solder pads, etc. There are guides in pinwiki and Clay's guides on how to test these transistors.

As a systematic approach, tho, if you remove 2J12 from the driver board (please confirm that this is the connector you are removing) and the sling coil releases, then the ground signal to the coil is coming from the board via 2J12. if the coil doesn't release, then the ground signal is somewhere in the playfield.

If you remove 2J12 and it releases, then the pin associated with sol17 is getting ground from the board. The two most common causes are shorted Q1 and Q2. if those checkout, make sure no traces on the board in that area are shorting out and look clean.

If all that checks out, then you can check the resistors around Q1 and Q2. R7, R8 and R9 I believe. The good news, is that the left kicker is a 'special' solenoid so I don't believe any 'logic' is involved in firing it....just the switch from the PF. So the last order of business is to make sure the left kicker switch isn't shorted. That switch comes in on 2J13, so try removing 2J13. If the coil releases, then the switch is shorted, likely in the PF. These switches don't have diodes but Cap/Resistor in parallel with the switch so make sure those aren't shorted.

This may be where you got confused on what you read...removing 2J13 would help diagnose whether it's a PF problem...but 2J12 does not. That's why I'm asking to confirm which connector you are indeed removing.

28VDC comes off the rectifier BR2 shown behind your hand in your picture. That rectifier has AC or ~ markings, and +,- markings. With your meter on VAC, put the leads on the two terminals marked AC or ~. Do you have AC? Should have roughly 25VAC. If so, then put meter on VDC and put leads on + and -. Do you have 28VDC? If so after the rectifier it goes through some connectors and fuse F2. If you have a good 28VDC at the rectifier, start measuring with your meter along the way to see where you lose it.

Yes, BR2 unloaded will read ~ 40VDC, so rectifier is good. I would reconnect the wire....just make sure it is reconnected to the correct pins on the harness. Follow the schematic when in doubt on IPDB.org...It's a crappy copy, but you can blow it up a bit to read the pin out connections.

NP...hopefully that fixes your issue.

Did you pull the switch connector to make sure it's not a shorted switch?

As explained a few posts above;

"If all that checks out, then you can check the resistors around Q1 and Q2. R7, R8 and R9 I believe. The good news, is that the left kicker is a 'special' solenoid so I don't believe any 'logic' is involved in firing it....just the switch from the PF. So the last order of business is to make sure the left kicker switch isn't shorted. That switch comes in on 2J13, so try removing 2J13. If the coil releases, then the switch is shorted, likely in the PF. These switches don't have diodes but Cap/Resistor in parallel with the switch so make sure those aren't shorted."

So, do this, step by step and report back. Use your schematics to verify the connectors:

1) With game off, pull connector 2J12 on driver board. If you look at your schematics you'll see that this connector has the ground from the driver board that goes to the left kicker coil.

2) Turn game on, let boot and start a game. Don't worry if things don't 'work' as this connector you've pulled controls multiple coils. Coil should remain off. If it doesn't then you have a short in the PF for that coil.

3) Push connector 2J12 back on. Be careful while working in the back box with game live as there are voltages in there that will hurt you. The connector 2J12 are grounds to the coils. If you push connector 2J12 on, and the coil turns on, pull the connector back off. Report results.

4) With connector 2J12 off, pull connector 2J13 on driver board. This connector has the switches from the playfield that control the special solenoids. Once pulled, reconnect 2J12. Does the coil turn on again or remain off? Report results.

If the coil turns on in step 3 but not in step 4 then the switch from the left kicker is shorted somewhere. If the coil turns on in both steps 3 and 4 then you likely still have a board issue. Report back.

Caveat: If you are uncomfortable working in the head with the power on, you can turn the game off in between each step and back on, and restart a game.

Based on the fact you state the game worked before you transported it, my guess is a shorted PF switch that got jostled...and maybe a loose wire shorted from the switch. Boards don't usually suddenly go bad from a move, unless coincidentally it was just its time.

Yes I knew the pf side for the coil was correct...what I had you checking was the pf side of the switch that drives that coil to see if the switch was being seen as always on. So it would appear that by the results of step 4 the board is always sending ground. You can follow the schematics and see where the switch drives the predriver q1 which turns on q2 Through some pull up resistors...using a meter you can try checking each component on the board for function and continuity...use the q3 q4 pair next to it as a comparison. Or send the board to Chris hibler who has the quickest turn around time and let him fix it.

That lower right side is pretty crispy...Looks like it affected a couple of ICs too that control the lamp blanking. The upper left hack with the red wire is from the Quad Nor gate IC...it's taking the ouput of the Nor Gate to it looks like something in the Left kicker transistor area but I can't tell what. My guess, is that transistor locked on in the past and burnt up the trace from the NOR gate and that was a jump around. You might test IC9 if you have a logic probe...it could be bad and causing your problem. You can compare pins 1, 4, 10 and 13 with 2J13 disconnected, and see if the signals are the same. These signals drive the pre-driver which turns on the driver transistors...pin 1 is for the Q1 pre-driver.

If pin 1 tests different than 4, 10 and 13, check pins 2,3 and 5,6 and 11,12 and 8,9. See if there is any deviation in the pairs. If so, then IC6 could be bad. If all the pairs check the same but pin 1 tests different then it's definitely IC9.

But I'd be really suspect of that red jumper. It's part of the left kicker circuit.

PS: If you don't have a logic probe, you can use a meter on VDC...you'll see low signals (~0V) and high signals (~5V). However, one half of each pair of pins on IC9 are coming from IC6 which is derived from a strobed signal that transitions from high/low rapidly and so your meter value on those pins will jump around.

Incidentally, the BK schematics on IPDB are missing this page for the specials. I had to use Jungle Lord manual here: http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/1338/Williams_1981_Jungle_Lord_Manual.pdf page 22

Are your batteries any good? Sounds like you're not getting 4.5v to the ram chips and losing memory.

Check batteries first...then battery holder for corrosion. Then check for 4.5v with game off at the ram chips...use schematic or follow traces

Yes...that's the next step if you confirm 4.5v at them

All stop working or just one?

If all there is a relay Z1 that allows ground to the flipper buttons...take note of this relays state when flippers are working...it should be closed. When not working gonna bet it's open. There is some circuitry that controls this relay for game over/boot mode. One of those components is failing likely under heat. Get some cold spray and when it fails try spraying the ics associated with that relay.

From clays guide:
Test the 2N4401 transistor Q13 (positioned right next to the relay) with the testing procedures described in the Transistor Testing section of this guide. Also the 7402 chip at IC8, which drives transistor Q13 could be bad. There have even been reports of resistors R27 (4.7k 1/4 watt) and R26 (10k 1/4 watt) being bad, in addition to diode D1 (1N4001). Lastly test the flipper relay itself, as the relay does go bad (the driver board will need to be removed to do this). A 9 volt battery can be used on the relay's coil lugs (the two isolated lugs from the other 12). Use the battery and check if the relay actually pulls its armature in and out (it should click nicely). If a replacement relay is needed, this relay is a 4PDT (4 pole double throw), 40 ohm, 6 volt relay, and a suitable replacement can be found at Mouser.com, part #528-7810-1 (MagneCraft #W78CSX-1, $5.50).

That's crazy money for a CPR PF....I just sold a BK with uninstalled CPR PF's, a new Mayfair BG, two board sets and a CPR plastic set for less than what they are asking for the PF alone.

Black knight spanned system 6 and 7....I know they used both power supplies and transformers in the head vs the cab. Don't know if the driver board or speech changed tho.

Vid's guide is great...in general, coils rarely need replacing unless they appear burnt. There is nothing in them to wear out, other than the insulation on the windings, and that leads to shorted windings, less impedance and burnt coil. Replace the end stops, flipper bushings (important and most often overlooked), coil sleeves and adjust the EOS and you'll be good to go. You can replace the prawl if it has alot of slop, but I've rarely seen the need.

Thanks for the correction....didn't realize that specifically on BK about the coil stops.

I've had a ton of games over 20 years, and only replaced a few prawls. Just not my experience. And yes to the plunger mushrooming....forgot about that one.

Re-pin your own: https://www.pinballlife.com/molex-crimp-stuff-connectors-and-parts.html

You'd need a 9 pin connector, 1 blank pin, 8 molex pins and a crimper.

You could use IDC connectors also, but I'd prefer Molex. https://www.pinballlife.com/molex-156-idc-connectors-and-parts.html

Be aware, most of the IDC you find nowadays are for 22awg wire. Not sure what J8 feeds, but if it's 18 awg power feeds, you'll need the correct IDC for 18 awg.