(Topic ID: 54503)

Black Knight Club...Members Only!

By mof

6 years ago

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  • Latest reply 11 hours ago by BlackxDragon
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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider michel_k17.
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#1999 9 months ago

Like many of you out there, I am restoring my BK which I got nearly two years ago. Thank you to all of you that contributed instructions, pictures and videos!

My restoration of the cabinet went OK, but not great. I have decided to go with vinyl, but I have not been able to find any vinyl kits for the BK, so I created my own, in two flavors: the original set, and a modified one. I still need to complete the coin door, but here is a preview. Hopefully going to my local printer on Wednesday.

Original - BK Right Cabinet Vector Art (resized).pngModified - BK Right Cabinet Vector Art (resized).pngOriginal - BK L&R Head Vector Art (resized).pngModified - BK L&R Head Vector Art (resized).png
#2001 9 months ago

Thanks! The area you are referring to is for reference. I use inkspace, and these items are on a unique layer which I make invisible when sending the file to the printer. I intend to make this artwork available to the forum members once I have completed a successful print and installation.

#2003 9 months ago

Completed the front artwork (original and modified), and going to the printers tomorrow.

schwaggs You bet: happy to help. Will post the files soon.

Modified - BK Front Art (resized).pngOriginal - BK Front Art (resized).png
#2010 8 months ago

Any idea why the previous owner jumpered the left and right switch grounds?

These two wires are connected to the driver board at 2J12-1 and 2J12-2.


Jumpered Lt & Rt Sw Grounds (resized).jpg
#2012 8 months ago

Hi vec-tor,

Thank you for your reply. Here are some answers:

1. Maybe to make better contact to ground?
- Although I saw someone refer them to as a "ground", they are in-fact independent of one another, and not connected to the main ground. They are more like a "return" line perhaps?

2. Maybe one wire has a male or female connector bad on the intermediate connectors in the back box?
- Good thinking. I used my multi-meter to do a continuity check of each wire through the connectors, all the way to the 2J12-1 and 2J12-2 pins on the board, and both wires are good.

Maybe the issue is that the flipper relay is broken?

Is this flipper replay generally considered to be reliable?

After more searching, I also found this thread where the topic of bypassing these pins is discussed:
Mod from previous owner (resized).png

#2014 8 months ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

hich is tied back to the power board which has all grounds tied together.

That mod could have been used to work around a bad set of contacts on the relay or a bad connection in the wiring/connectors from the flippers to the driver board.

Thanks Schwaggs for the explanation. That helps. Will return the wiring to original, and investigate/fix root cause.

#2018 8 months ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

That would be awesome of you! I for one am very interested.
I have a basket case BK that someone disassembled, trying to do a playfield swap and cabinet repaint. The paint job is not as good as I want so I was going to re-paint it but installing decals would be even better!

Printers had to reprint the vinyls because:
1. One image did not transfer properly from the PDF (they admitted that they had to fix it); and
2. The vinyl was super-glossy even though I had asked for an egg shell Sheen

My Lessons Learned in regards to the printing & application process:

1. Make sure that you ask for a top clear layer on top of the vinyl print - it makes the vinyl thicker and protects the print from scratches

2. Ask for scrap pieces of vinyl from the print shop. It was nice to be able to practice without the stress of ruining the final print!

3. Get a roller! Even the "soft" applicator the vinyl print shop gave me tended to make scratches. I put some velcro on one side of the applicator, and even then it was not foolproof.

4. Wet vs dry. Material was 3M Controltac for which I paid more ($284 before taxes), but I was told that it the longevity is much better. This material has channels to allow the air to exit ("air egress" feature). However, no matter what I did (with the practice pieces), I would still get the occasional air bubble. The 3M instructions said to avoid the wet method because there is no means for the water to dry if any of it gets trapped, However, the print shop highly recommended the wet method anyway. Since my cabinet had a layer of clear, and it was fairly flat, I went ahead, and used the "wet" method, using a light mist of water (with 2 drops of detergent per liter). Procedure was easy: the roller allowed me to fully push out any trapped water, and after 24 hours, I can attest that the vinyl has adhered to the cabinet very well and it was fully flat with no bubbles. Generally speaking, I used the procedure from Australia shown on youtube here (except I used far less water). Trimming just shy of the corner worked well.

5. I did not need to use an assistant. Separating the film was easy, and I used a trimmed piece of underlay to grab the end, and keep the end stiffso that the corners would not fold.

6. I used the triangles at bottom of each print to align the pieces with the cabinet, and it all lined up well.

7. I did not remove the rails, and simply trimmed around them. Worked well.

8. Total time to apply the vinyl: 5 hours. This excludes removing/re-installing the legs, and playing with the practice pieces of vinyl.

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1 week later
#2037 8 months ago
Quoted from Tbpilot78:

Im just glad i gotta couple options cause its black knight not red knight,thanks again everyone who chimed in

I can vouch for CPR in regards to the quality of the print on the backglass, the rounded corners, as well as their customer service on an issue on my purchase which they are fixing by sending a replacement unit. Furthermore, they tell me that it is an official/licensed/approved design that is based on a NOS glass. Finally, their shipping box is flawless in regards to protecting the glass during shipment.

Out of curiosity on the Mayfair (NOS 2nd printing) vs CPR, does anyone know if the horse is dark grey or blue?

- My original BK black glass (early unit w/ transformer in the head) - horse (and knight) are very dark, and the horse color is dark grey
- My CPR replacement - the knight is much brighter (looks good) but the horse is a dark blue except for where the bulb is under the left hoof (bright blue);
- Mayfair replacement - is ???

Also, I am curious on how "new" the Mayfair units are in regards to scratches/damage since it sounds like they are over 20 years old.

BK_Glass (resized).jpg
#2040 8 months ago

Thank you both for the excellent feedback. Definitely concur that the design of this backglass is spectacular.

#2051 8 months ago

Hi Draegermeister. Were you able to located the BK HardTop you were looking for?

1 month later
#2070 7 months ago

Quick question. BK has three 23-750 coils (#6, #7 & #8), yet all of these coils in my BK are 23-850s.

The 23-750 coil seems to be "out-of-stock" almost everywhere.

What is best practice?

1. Ignore and continue as is? or
2. Take the coil apart and remove 100 windings?


#2072 7 months ago

Thank you. Sounds sensible.

#2075 6 months ago

Hi Tomass,

Probably more than what you want to spend, but you can have my old backglass for $99 plus shipping.

You can view it in ther classified section here:

1 week later
#2078 6 months ago

Oh wow... What a difference! Glad to hear it got there safe and sound.

#2079 6 months ago

Shout out to CPR(i.e. Classic Playfields - https://classicplayfields.com/) for their awesome customer service.

I had purchased a new BK backglass back in May, and eventually, I figured something was not quite right. It seemed like some of the artwork was just plain missing.

Bird (resized).png
Missing Black Highlight (resized).png

I sent a note to CPR to ask for help with the problem, and this is the very professional response that I got:

Thank you for bringing this to us. I know exactly what those glass problems are, as a couple printed wrong on a day back in the spring, and got sat aside. Somehow, both eventually later got grabbed and shipped to customers. This wasn't known until a little bit later, when we discovered the bunk prints were missing.

We were wondering where those glasses had went. One guy spoke up many months ago and we had exchanged his. Yours looks to be thankfully found, now we can deal with it.

The raster server that runs the press had stepped the gold layer ahead one in the layers... making the glass look the way it does, mainly because the gold layer ended up covering a whole bunch of the blackline layer.

Now for the odd part... I need you to destroy the bunk glass you have. Be safe, but being tempered the glass should break easily. Wrap in a sheet, snap the edge with a hammer. The glass is tempered, so it should "pop" into a million pieces... thus best being in a sheet (or hefty garbage bag). Then I need you to forward in a couple pictures to the web site address: inquiries@classicplayfields.com The reason for this is because our Bally/Williams licensing rules enforce the destruction of repro pieces that are too erroneous to allow out there in the wild.

So story short, pop the one we sent you, and a new one will be on it's way to replace it.

So yes, even though it broke my heart, I destroyed the backglass as they asked.

20190929_165855 (resized).jpg

Within a few days, I received the new and corrected backglass with all of the correct artwork. I can also confirm that the mirror finish is perfect!

Again: huge kudos to CPR. You guys rock!

Final Install with liftbar 01 (resized).jpg

#2082 6 months ago

It's been tried, and it is a waste of time. Even with a light, none of the light makes it through the plastic. If you are talking about the knight looking towards the left: don't waste your time.

Just played a BK tonight at a local bar which, as it turned out, had that light, and it did nothing.

additional edit:
Here is a post that shows all of the extra lights that can be added on the right side of the playfield, both lower and upper playfields. You can be the judge yourself.


#2087 6 months ago
Quoted from epeabs:

I ran cool white LED strip lighting under the right side upper playfield plastics with decent results. I also added a spotlight, hidden under the plastic at the front of the upper playfield.[quoted image][quoted image]

Wow: that looks spectacular!

Do you have the specifics of your installation? (parts and location of your installation) - if available.

1 week later
#2094 6 months ago

Yes - having the same desire as well.

1 week later
#2098 5 months ago

Congratulations! And welcome to the club.

2 months later
#2145 3 months ago

Same here: centered and early system 6 PS.

#2153 3 months ago

Totally agree on variations from game to game.

Stenciling aside, I am seeing variations on the playfield as well, with various locations for screw holes resulting in the ramp sides in different locations. My BK had the left side of the left ramp moved inboard about 1/4 in compared to other machines resulting in a ball drain every single time. I moved it after inspection of pics from other machines and playing two other machines at local bars. Sigh.

Left Ramp Guide - Before and After (resized).jpg
1 week later
#2158 86 days ago
Quoted from frenchmarky:

Likely not the first time somebody did this mod but here's one I did maybe 10 years ago on my Black Knight to prevent fast balls from flying right back out of the upper multiball lock when it is empty, was really annoying. If a ball is flying far enough up above the switch trough, it glances downward off of this bumper. Has worked flawlessly since I put it in. It's a little sloppy looking with just a piece of 1/2" rubber tubing strapped down with multiple layers of packing tape so it can take the impacts, but it's invisible plus the mod can be reversed.[quoted image]

Here's mine: 1/4" thick foam seal with sticky back. It prevents fly-throughs 99% of the time, so yours is better. Just using what I have around the house.

20200101_163958 (853x480) (resized).jpg
#2159 86 days ago

I very much like the original "jeweled" look of the inserts on my BK, but some inserts have faded, particularly the blue one. I have done an LED conversion using the dimmest "retro" LEDs from Comet (and a few non-ghosting for the problem bulbs). Unfortunately, they all have white domes, which appear very white through the inserts.

I have had success using 10mm gel boot caps (for car instrument panels) which you can get for different colours from ebay: ebay.com link » 10 Qty Red 10mm T10 168 192 Light Bulb Color Caps Covers Toyota Honda Import

In summary: Green and Blue worked great, but the Red ones hardly make a difference. I only concentrated on the inserts close to the player. The ones on the upper playfield are too far to be visible.

And obviously, this is only a problem in moderately bright rooms.
Sample Boots (resized).jpgSample Boots - Green (resized).jpgBlue LED w and wo boot (resized).jpgGreen LED w boot (resized).jpgRed LED w and wo boot (resized).jpgRed boots installed (resized).jpg

#2163 83 days ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

You have the upgraded micro switches! Excellent.

Good eye!

1 week later
#2165 77 days ago
Quoted from frenchmarky:

How do these color-capped LEDs look when lit? I did a little experimenting too with making my badly faded blue inserts look more like the BK flyer and repro playfields... just dark, smokey blue. I tried blue LEDs but didn’t like the look, too bright, too pure blue, too garish and neon-ish especially since I'm sticking with #44s otherwise. I’m trying various warm white LEDs with no cap (so looks more like a #44 filament) and differing layers of blue & purple cellophane and 2-sided tape to make colored ‘lenses’ to stick on the top of them. Still dialing in the process and color but looks like this. I made the 2X & 5X purple because those are the only ones that are definitely purplish vs. the others on my BK, what color is left that is. Weird thing is on the flyer and repros the two purple ones on mine just look blue (?)
[quoted image][quoted image]

So, perhaps I should have mentioned that although the caps are white, the LED itself is colored. So, I am using blue on all blue arrows, dropdown target timers and the bonus lights (X2, X3, X4, X5). What the boot does is make the white cap less visible from the top when unlit, but when they are lit, they look nearly identical to without the boot. Maybe a touch darker/richer.

In regards to the purple hue of your X2 and X5: I am guessing that it is just the way they faded, but that they were originally blue. I have noticed on older Black Knights, that they do have a slight purple fade to them (including my machine), but generally, I feel like all 4 are typically blue, but we do know that there has been variations over time.

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