(Topic ID: 54503)

Black Knight Club...Members Only!


By mof

6 years ago



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  • 2,053 posts
  • 198 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 days ago by avspin
  • Topic is favorited by 99 Pinsiders

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#3 6 years ago

I really need to get a new batch of photos on mine, it's come a long way since I first picked it up. CPR silver knight playfield, mayfair backglass, and I also went and had the coin door powder coated in black/yellow too. Currently waiting on a replacement power supply after the pinscore piece in there had died a couple months ago... blah.

I just love the artwork, where the theme is what you see coming through the most, instead of having a bunch of big text block inserts everywhere like most games these days have. The gameplay is also fantastic.... simple, fast, brutally unforgiving. Probably why I have a Firepower sitting next to it.

I will NEVER part with this machine.

-Hans

#15 6 years ago

I used Cointaker 90 degree for he inserts and warm white frosted for the GI. Their super bright and such are just too bright for me. Shouldn't have any flicker issues with any of the bayonet base pieces on the market, I haven't found any that aren't rectified except cheap wedge based stuff.

Mayfair amusements has nos back glasses from an early 90's re-run, very very nice

#24 6 years ago

Always possible to make your own pop bumper caps. I did this a couple years ago for mine.

http://www.siegecraft.us/popbumper.htm

#51 6 years ago

Saw a bit of an info thing about the new movie Grown Ups 2 coming out in the next couple weeks. One of the scenes from the movie had a Black Knight in the background, next to a hyperball of all things.

-Hans

1 week later
#67 6 years ago
Quoted from mof:

Cliffy came through for me this week and shipped a BK protector set to me.
I was able to install the one on the upper PF fine. I noticed one tiny issue. I am missing a screw (it appears) that goes in the hairpin turn of the metal ramp piece -- the corner between the turn around and the ball lock.
Does anyone know what kind of screw goes in there? It looks very narrow. I cannot imagine it since it "should" support the ramp from moving as well. Cliffy made a hole just FOR that purpose of being better anchored there. But the area is so TINY, I didn't see how I could get anything in there. Is it not a screw, but a post?
(see pic)
2) I wasn't able to figure out an easy way to install the lower PF Cliffy... It wants you to remove the metal bracket above the ball lock hole, but it "feels" like I'd have to remove the entire upper PF to get room to get the screws out. I have a 90' screwdriver but it still wants a 1" clearance to turn, and I don't think I have that.
(see pic)
thanks for the help on 1 or 2!
-mof

#1 - No screw present, but every one I've seen had a long finishing nail there. Doesn't hold it down, but does keep the steel from shifting laterally. It's a similar nail to the two that are next to the light bulb under your plastic covering the upper right drop targets.

#2 - NOT easy to get to. IIRC I used a screwdriver bit that you'd normally use in a drill, and turned it with a small box wrench. It is possible to do, as I did install it on my original playfield before swapping over, I just also remember it being difficult to access.

-Hans

1 year later
#90 5 years ago

Depends on the plastic. Some of them are too opaque, and you don't see the light shining through.

-Hans

1 week later
#109 5 years ago

10k bonus lights for a few seconds when the magnets are activated

1 week later
#150 5 years ago

Special only lights during the multiplayer bonus round after all games have ended. Need to finish wll 4 drop target banks before the 30 second timer finishes.

-Hans

#156 5 years ago

Mirror balls with a high chromium content don't get as much pull from the magnets. I always use regular carbon steel for any game with magnets. That's the most common reason I see for low magnet pull.

#162 5 years ago

Extra ball alternates locations. First one you earn is on the long left ramp, 2nd one on the lower playfield turnaround, 3rd on the left ramp, 4th on the turnaround. On default settings, first extra ball only needs you to finish either the top OR bottom set of drops 3 times each. Every subsequent extra ball you have to do all 4 sets of drops 3 times each.

Replay can only be earned by a high enough score, match, or special.

1 month later
#249 4 years ago

Go into test mode, see if you can replicate. Or even better, go into switch test mode and do the same, as your flippers are active in that mode. Could be slam tilting, which in system 7 does a complete CPU reboot, no warning and no excuses.

If that's the case, taping some cardboard between the switch leaves on your coin door would also rule it out.

-Hans

6 months later
#383 4 years ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

Thinking of painting my lane guides, anyone have any suggestions?

image.jpg (Click image to enlarge)

I made new ones out of white oak. Look fantastic, much better than the original soft crappy wood covered in wood grain vinyl wrap.

-Hans

2 weeks later
#437 4 years ago
Quoted from Black_Knight:

I have an unused Kohout sound/voice board if you end up needing one of those.

How much you asking for those? Been fighting sound issues on my Firepower since I bought the thing.
Maybe a trade of some kind?

-Hans

3 weeks later
#459 4 years ago

1N4004's are the regular diodes on all the switches.

-Hans

3 weeks later
#473 4 years ago
Quoted from castlesteve:

Looking for BK backglass. Repro or original in good shape. Mine is pretty beat up

Contact Mayfair Amusements, in Queens NY.
They may still have some left from the 1990's Williams re-run.
Fantastic looking.

-Hans

1 month later
#478 4 years ago

Now that's awesome to see. Even stamped in the middle, which means it'll look even better than original version.

Gets a thumbs up from me, and that's saying a lot considering the very very very very very very bad mood I'm in right now.

-Hans

#481 4 years ago

Video on e-bay shows a hot stamping machine applying artwork. Doesn't look like the outer artwork is deeply melted into the pop bumper like the originals. To be honest, I prefer the newer look better. The originals looked kinda crappy.

-Hans

2 months later
#522 3 years ago

Bell should be on the left wall of the lower cabinet, just behind the tilt pendulum.

Solenoid 25 IIRC is the GI flasher. But I'm on the road right now, can't confirm.

5 months later
#545 3 years ago

Thats a nice Black Knight. New set of CPR plastics on there most likely since it has both the return lanes and left ramp plastic.

Zacaj; Run a switch test, and check all your trough switches both top and bottom. My guess is you'll find a stuck switch in there somewhere.

11 months later
#652 2 years ago
Quoted from mof:

I wonder how current owners can check to see what version they have installed?

Look at the switches for the upper and/or lower ball trough. Pre-upgrade was leaf switches, post-upgrade was microswitches.
All the LE machines have the microswitches.

-Hans

#654 2 years ago
Quoted from catboxer:

Fun fact: The wiring diagram that came with the upgrade kit was wrong. If you followed it the game would not work. I only know this because that's how I received my game, with the Williams upgrade instructions, and it took me a week to diagnose the problem.

Not surprised with Williams in that era. They had a lot of schematic and diagram issues to sort out.
All I did was scan and upload the instructions, never actually compared them to my machine.

-Hans

9 months later
#912 1 year ago

I had a local (at the time) cabinet shop make my rails in white oak. Ohhhh baby do they look nice, and they can take a beating too.

-Hans

#916 1 year ago

Yep. Most common reason for the magnets not to work is the ground braid not connected. Though from memory, isn't it white with a red stripe? Either way, you need to have two ground braids connected to that lug in the head box, just in front of the wiring hole.

-Hans

3 weeks later
#936 1 year ago
Quoted from Sheprd:

Question for the Black Knight experts. When on "Free Play" do you ever see either of the arrows light during a game for the free ball or special at the turn-a-round? The arrows light during test and attract mode, but I cannot seem to get into a mode where they light during game play.

The 'Special' for Black Knight is probably one of the hardest modes in pinball. Only lights up during the post-game 'bonus round' following a multi-player game, and only if you complete all 4 sets of drop targets during that round, which is only 30 seconds long. All while manually plunging a non-stop multiball.

The extra ball I get all the time during free play. Default settings are you have to finish all the upper OR lower target sets three times each during a single ball, that gets the first extra ball. Any subsequent ones you have to finish all 4 sets of drops three times each (which is also what the 'hard' setting needs for the first extra ball).

-Hans

#941 1 year ago

Bell goes off in a few spots.

When you max the bonus sword and multipliers, it'll ring on everything after that which would have advanced the bonus. (Short rings)
When you're awarded an extra ball. (Looooong ring)
When you obtain the high score. (Looooong ring)
When you're awarded a free game via the match. (short ring)
When you're the highest scorer in a multiplayer game (# of rings is the player who wins)

Man, when you get that maxed bonus, it's sure as hell draws attention. Black Knight wants everybody to know when someone is having a kick-ass game.

Definitely should work in diagnostics, just like any other solenoid circuit. But it's commonly found with a cut wire, or something else to keep it from ringing. Some venues don't like how loud it gets.

2 months later
#969 1 year ago
Quoted from troxel:

Just joined the group and rebuilt the system 7 power supply. I am checking voltages with nothing plugged in except 3J2 and 3J1. How much is too much on the high voltage connector (+90/-90 readings)? I thought I read that this might be different if there isn't a load on it.

Actually, unless you changed component values, they're supposed to be +/- 100v

-Hans

2 weeks later
#985 1 year ago

Metal side plate, similar to the ones that goes around the ramps and such.

1 month later
#1074 1 year ago

In a situation like that, it may be easier to just pull the whole playfield from the cabinet. Once the wires are disconnected it just lifts out. Then you can flip it over and trace things out easier.

-Hans

5 months later
#1527 10 months ago

If anybody is watching that new Kurt Russell movie on Netflix "The Christmas Chronicles".....

Keep a close eye on the background in the garage scene. Our favorite machine makes a guest appearance, and unlike movies of old, the pins don't get smashed.

-Hans

4 months later
#1781 6 months ago

GI lighting. But impossible to tell in the photo where in the playfield or headbox that particular circuit goes to.
Extremely common to see the failed connectors on the power supply board, rare to see the mid-wiring connector fail.

Realistically, system 7 machines need to have a significant number of the GI lights converted to LED's or lower amperage bulbs to prevent the problems you are seeing. The machines, as designed, have excessive amperage going through the GI circuits and it results in near universal failure of those connectors.

1 month later
#1818 4 months ago

Time for a bit of a long-term report on my own machine.

It's been 6-7 years since I've done my CPR playfield swap. Other than occasional light cleaning the game never really needed much. Took it to MGC last month and it got played almost non-stop for two days...... so things got a bit dirty finally and it's time for a good cleaning. I have to say, considering how much play this machine gets, the CPR playfield is holding up fantastic.

Needed a couple minor repairs after the show too. One of the drop-target tension springs broke. A couple of other leaf switches need replacement, due to the 1980 backwards rivets. Due for a new set of balls as well. 10 years on, the MOSFET swap on the driver board is still working flawlessly.

The rubber rings are starting to crack all over the place and time for a fresh set. Anybody done any colored silicone rings in a BK at all? I'm going to put a Titan set in the machine this time and I'm tempted to do some color combos. Might just stick with original white as well, haven't decided yet.

-Hans

#1823 4 months ago

Check your coin door switches. The wireforms get goofed around with a lot, and can cause oddball intermittent switch matrix issues.

1 week later
#1842 4 months ago

I like the idea for the original 1980.... but it’s gotta blend with the original artwork. Totally different feel than the new Stern game.

1 week later
#1877 4 months ago

I had to shim my ramps with a CPR playfield swap too.

-Hans

#1899 4 months ago

There’s another adjustment knob on the sound board, which adjusts the levels between sound and speech. A lot of time people think it’s a volume control. Try adjusting that first

#1904 4 months ago

Definitely not where they should be. I’d have to check mine to see if there is even supposed to be a light there or not. But I’m on the road right now so can’t even check.

#1906 4 months ago

The original stickers often fade very badly on the pop bumpers. Most often they’re pink by now, but seen a few that faded in the past.

Yours is a fairly early production game, upper playfield still has the notches for the stand up targets. Never seen a game in the wild with the stand ups fitted though.

2 weeks later
#1936 3 months ago

Bell also plays when you hit any criteria that awards a free credit.

3 weeks later
#1977 81 days ago

None of my System 3-7's had capacitors on the coin door lamps, just the GI wiring.

-Hans

#1979 81 days ago

Center coin slot was, at the time of Black Knight, usually a Susan B. Anthony dollar. The back side of it have a coin mechanism bracket and switch?

Most games though with that coin door had a flat plate with a Williams logo on it. Usually if this is how it was originally, there's not even a bracket and switch for a coin mech.

-Hans

1 month later
#2008 42 days ago

Unless you've converted a LOT of your GI lights to LED, you don't want to replace the original connectors for the GI on the power supply with identical stuff. They're badly over-loaded already. There's a reason that EVERY system 7 game has that connector burned/bypassed/hacked, etc.... When I tried replacing it on mine, way back when, the new one failed in less than an hour.

Better choice would be to convert it over to the style of connector they used in the early System 11 machines, unfortunately I don't have any of the part numbers on that.

That and you really need to run LED's in as much of the GI lights as possible to reduce the power load on the connector.

2 weeks later
#2043 23 days ago

Looks just like mine too.

-Hans

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