Auburn, NH
Picking up a BK on Monday. I will be joining this club!!! It's been a long time coming.
(Topic ID: 54503)
Linked Games
Black Knight
Williams, 1980-
Black Knight Limited Edition
Williams, 1981
Topic Gallery
You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider epeabs.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
1 week later
Black Knight is in the house!!! Finally getting the pin that hooked me on pinball. I was going the set it up and play it, but I am gonna take my time. Been waiting long enough that I might as well tweak it before I set it up. The cabinet is in very good condition and not faded. I will grab a repro backglass for it since the original has been majorly "touched" up, and it deserves a new one. The playfield is in decent condition. Slight wear over right Magna-Save, some mylar missing behind the pop bumper, some slight wear at upper playfield ball entrance, but overall very good condition for being 38 years old! The bottom of the cabinet was coming apart some and felt too flimsy to hold the speaker. I have removed the base and will replace with 1/2" plywood, recut for speaker, power switch, etc. While at it, I removed the playfield and have torn down the topside. I will rebuild the slingshots as they are very loose and replace the slingshot switches while at it. It came with two factory CPU's and has a Rottendog in it. It has some LED's, Rottendog LED displays, and a PinballPro speaker. I will rerubber with Titans and rebuild the sound board as one of the capacitors is starting the "bulge". I'll update anything else I see that needs to be addressed.
20180806_181809 (resized).jpg20180806_181815 (resized).jpg20180806_181820 (resized).jpg20180806_192658 (resized).jpg20180806_192707 (resized).jpg20180806_194604 (resized).jpg20180806_201212 (resized).jpg20180806_203628 (resized).jpg20180807_162602 (resized).jpg20180807_204247 (resized).jpg20180807_205155 (resized).jpgFelt a bit adventurous today. I would like to install some side "blades" on my BK at some point. But there isn't much clearance between the playfield sides and the cabinet. So, while the playfield is out, I trimmed the width on the table saw. The playfield is now about 3/16" thinner than stock. Should have no clearance issues now, unless I need to "shave" a couple plastics.
20180812_161540 (resized).jpgQuoted from Mathazar:As I was putting in new rubbers and LEDs this evening on my new BK, I noticed behind the blue drop downs on the lower playfield that there appears to be a red post missing given the hole in the playfield and the circular exposure of "newer" looking wood. Your BK's have this post? I'll have to pick one up from Marco's or somewhere.
[quoted image]
IPDB had mention of the area you are speaking. Not sure why there is a hole, but on some early machines there is a cutout for a switch. From IPDB - "Also pictured in this listing is a stripped playfield from the game with serial number 457797. Three of the four slots cut into this playfield for the drop target banks also have a cutout to support a vertical rebound switch. The switch can be seen in the flyer game if one looks carefully at the center drop bank. We do not know how many production games had these switches. Games that do not have switches might still have the playfield cutouts. Other games might not even have the cut outs. Steve Ritchie explains:
The switch was removed because it never really got a chance to be hit much. The timers would reset the banks, so they weren't exposed often enough to justify the cost of keeping them." Maybe some clarification.
I just realized that a prior owner placed a post on mine.
20180807_133517 (resized).jpgimage-44 (resized).jpgCan someone take a photo of the upper playfield right side drop target area with the plastic removed. Mine has two "pins" behind the drops I'm thinking to support the plastic? But mine are literally two nails. I also have one behind the upper playfield left drop target assembly, second picture (the nail is the shiny thing in the forefront).
20180807_103550 (resized).jpg20180807_212948 (resized).jpgMuch more professional-looking approach than Factory. I was already thinking of doing something along the same lines. As far as the left side, I'll look into that set up a little more and maybe try to do a Cliffy as well. Thank you.
Quoted from dzorbas:I still don't understand the purpose of these nails. To support the plastic? From what, an airball coming down on top of it? Maybe to protect the light bulb from the plastic crushing it? As for the one on the guide on the left ramp, I put in a post screw and *gasp* drilled a hole in the plastic and used an acorn nut on it. This worked perfectly because I already had the metal plate under the plastic and it rested on the edge of the ball guide. When I tightened down the plastic it pushed the metal plate down on top of the ball guide. Everything is nice and tight!
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
I like the post mod behind the left upper drop bank. Makes much more sense than the nail. I think I will use that approach to cure the factory "hack".
Does anyone have the part number for this switch? It is the switch activated by the kicker arm itself not the ones that register on each side of it on BK. My manual doesn't have part numbers as far as switches, Etc. And nothing looks quite right on pinball life, Marco, etc.
20180807_214752 (resized).jpg20180813_223100 (resized).jpgLooks beautiful!! The hardtop looks like a deep clear job. I like the updated drop targets. I want to change mine out since the "red" is pink and it drives me crazy. In the process of doing some playfield touch ups right now as I think I'm going to go the Spraymax 2K clear route. Just got my BK on the 6th and it is now in many pieces, the playfield is on the rotisserie and top stripped down, just pulled the drop target assemblies out tonight. Do you have a part number for the drop targets?
20180815_214156 (resized).jpg20180815_221531 (resized).jpgWhile taking apart my drop target assemblies for cleaning, I realized I have a different coil on one of the four assemblies. Three of my drop targets are using an SA-3-23 850-DC coil, and the fourth one has a G-23 750 coil. It is physically a smidge smaller than the other three and I'm figuring isn't as
"strong". Is the SA-3-23 850-DC still available? I only saw an SG version.
20180815_204431 (resized).jpg20180815_204437 (resized).jpg 1 week later
While in the clearing playfield and sanding process, I had actually sanded through a coat of clear, and began to sand my playfield (Ohhhhhh SHIT!). Of course in was right in the center of the sword in the scroll area so not an easy repaint. So I actually made a waterslide decal of the area from a few photos I had taken prior with my cell phone. I was ultimately able to print it out after quite a few sizing attempts onto clear decal paper. I am very impressed with how it came out. The first two photos below are the before and after photos. As of tonight, I have finished clearing my playfields with Spraymax 2K. Very easy to use, but definitely more expensive that going the spray gun route. If I am to clear another playfield, I will probably use a gun for more options. I am very impressed so far with the clear finish. After several coats and sanding with 400 grit, respraying, sanding with 800 grit, I sprayed two heavy coats tonight, using my two last cans. Wow, it looks like glass. I will let it cure for a couple of weeks and then wet sand it and buff it out. Last three photos are tonight after the heavy clear coats.
20180829_210957 (resized).jpg20180830_152228 (resized).jpg20180909_172114 (resized).jpg20180909_172120 (resized).jpg20180909_172128 (resized).jpg 2 weeks later
These two yellow wires got pulled from their respective loop ends attached to the fuse board in removing the head. When I check continuity from the transformer, I have continuity to each wire itself as well as the other one at the same time. I'm assuming it doesn't matter which of these yellow wires gets connected to which terminal? Or should they be connected a specific way?
20180925_113102 (resized).jpg20180925_113121 (resized).jpg20180925_113440 (resized).jpgFinished reassembling my playfield tonight after clearcoating, and installed it in the Knight. After tweaking the trough switches (still needs a bit more) I can get it into a game but I have intermittent flippers. They have worked a couple of times, but mostly non working. Gonna hit it tomorrow after some sleep, but didn't know if anyone had any thoughts. Not sure if it makes a difference, but it has a Rottendog board in it.
After adjusting the shooter trough switches I was able to play one actual game. But only one. Now I have my ball lock solenoid repeatedly firing upon startup. I've tried adjusting the lock switches, but it is still doing it. So the lock trough repeatedly fires or it doesn't and the shooter trough fires two balls into lane instead. If that happens the flippers don't work. It also will seem to load a second or third player. I'm perplexed. Sorry if this is confusing, its difficult to explain.
Well....Amazing what you find when you start looking at areas closely. I found one of my wires going to the "right" ball eject switch got pinched under the playfield metal "strap". Loosened screws and removed wire, then had to "fix" the "grounded out" wire. Once done I was able to play a game. But realized I need to adjust all my drain switches, spinner switch, etc. since none of them are registering. But the interesting part is that the pop bumper which I rebuilt is not working when hit. But I can activate it by hand, and when I do, the outhole solenoid is firing. Definitely some more work to be done.
I'm trying to work through some of my issues. I've started by making sure the Rottendog is working, by starting from the self test and it is working properly. In coil test, all my coils fire including the pop bumper. I next went to switch test and it is stuck on left kicker #17 saying that it is stuck, but in the couple games I have played, the left kicker works fine. Currently when loading balls, it will eject them into the ball trough, but once the third ball triggers the switch it is not playing sounds as it had done, and it won't allow me to start a game. While I have had a game going I have manually tried to activate most of the switches and they do not register. Example, left and right outlanes, behind the kicker lanes, spinner, etc. (all the drop targets are working fine). Also when playing a game sometimes it will just lose flippers altogether. When clearcoating the playfield I never stripped the back of the playfield, just the top. So I haven't removed or adjusted these switches during the clearcoating. I'm not thinking that it is a matter of readjusting all these switches since the clearcoating isn't the thickness of say a "hardtop".
Well, from what I can tell so far is that I have column 5 out. As well as there is an issue with switch #17 which is the right ball ramp. I can't seem to clear it by cleaning the contacts or adjusting the switch. I have checked the diode which is good. Have to take a breather for family stuff. But maybe I'm making some headway.
Schwaggs I have cleared the ball roll tilt and the right ball ramp switches. At this time, column 5 is still out but I have not had a chance to look at it again. In that column none of those switches seem to be registering when I activate them.
Quoted from Schwaggs:Great! If you had an original board set, I would suspect the header pins or driver for that column. Since you have a RD board, the header pins nor driver shouldn't be the issue unless you accidentally grounded a switch in column 5. I would look at the connector at J2 (on the original driver board, not sure where it is on a RD board). Make sure the wires are seated securely in pin 5 of that connector. Maybe have someone hold a switch closed in that column and push/move the wire in the connector to see if the connection is intermittent.
Upon initial inspection J2 seems fine. I was starting to look in that direction. I need to grab a Molex .156 connector kit to have around. If I had one currently I would just replace the female side to be safe. I will follow all my wires going to it to confirm no shorts. I have never played my BK. When I purchased it I went right into my "Resto-Mod". I do have a video of it playing and the pop bumper, etc. was working, although I don't know if it was scoring. So I'm figuring I could have bumped something while working under the playfield. On another note, I would be interested in upgrading a fair amount of my switches to the "Cherry" style microswitches. Cherry brand seem to be a little trickier to find. There are tons of microswitches on Amazon and eBay. Has anyone had anyone positive experience with these "knockoff" versions?
Quoted from chaskett:Welp... that didn't take long. The flat "T" bottom broke off on 2 of the six drop targets I installed after about 20 games. Back to the drawing board.
Mine probably won't be far behind you after I get the Knight up and running. Mine are also printed from PLA because that is what my friend had available. Yelobird had recommended using Nylon X as a stronger material which is probably a better bet.
This is becoming an adventure. I have now visually inspected and checked continuity throughout the column five switches and all the way back to the board. Everything has continuity. I also pulled the Rottendog board and "trimmed" down the middle board mount so that it doesn't ground on J3 lug. I had blown a solenoid fuse, so I just replaced it. Going through coil test I am missing left and right kickers and the pop bumper. I just ordered 5 of the 74HCT9114N switch matrix chips from K's Arcade but not sure when I will get them through priority mail. My local electronics supply didn't have them. So now I've got to wait to see if the chip if a big part of the problem.
I got my 74HCT9114N switch matrix chips from K's Arcade today. I installed a new one in U17. Fired the game up. It won't start a game even though switch #17, right ball ramp does register in switch test. My pop bumper switch and my upper drop targets (all column 5 in the switch matrix) still don't register in switch test. The interesting thing is when I trigger my pop bumper manually, my left and right kicker are activating at the same time. And my left kicker is sometimes activating by itself although not completely, only partially. Just went back to it quickly to try a coil test. My coils started to fire and then they stopped. Now I have no coils firing at all during coil test. Jeeeezzz. Thought I was getting closer. All for now. Got to work tomorrow so it's off to bed. Try to address it with a clear head.
Just a quick update. Just quickly before work this morning I checked my solenoid fuse which was burned (so now replaced). And I also went through the entire initial startup and self check with the Rottendog board which is showing it is working. I'll try to take a peek at it when I get home. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
I tried to do a switch and coil test tonight. My left kicker stuck on during the test and I had to manually release it. But I have blown my solenoid fuse again. Have to grab some 2.5 SB's tomorrow to try again. I feel like I'm going in circles. I've checked continuity through all the wires going to J2 and j3 and none of them are grounded inadvertently. Just not sure where I need to be looking on the Rdog board.
Visually nothing looks out of place or wrong. I have traced the wires around and don't see anything that looks like it would be "crossing". Thinking there may be something more on the Rdog MPU 327-1 that may have been toasted when I hurt the U17 chip which I have replaced.
Even though I have not really played my BK, I have a video right before I bought it that it played fine. I don't have the score in the video to know that it was scoring, but it started a game and played it well. I have the original MPU and a second one that came with the game, but I am missing the system 7 driver board (I already thought about putting the original board back in after I know it is good and finding a driver). I'm thinking I messed something up when I grounded something and blew the switch matrix chip, which I have replaced. I just don't know where to look on the Rdog to troubleshoot.
This troubleshooting makes me feel like I'm running in circles. I have replaced the U17 switch matrix chip on the Rdog board. BK still won't start a game. Trying to go through testing. When I start into test mode, as soon as I press the advance to go into the display test, my left kicker is energizing and sticking on. It won't release until either the 2.5A solenoid fuse blows, or I shut the machine off. I just removed one leg of the left kicker solenoid diode and it tests fine so I have resoldered it back together. Any thoughts on areas of the Rdog 327-1 board to troubleshoot?
Quoted from SpaceAce:You know, for all your struggles, if this is an option, you might just consider it. This thing has had you pinned for long enough. I know that there's the satisfaction of fixing it yourself, but it's also possible that it could be a defective unit. If they can look at it and know in an hour what would take you...
I know. I'm almost there. So far with any of my machines, I've been able to diagnose and fix the issue with the assistance of great Pinsiders. I'm also considering (since I have the original mpu, but missing the driver board) of getting a driver board and bulletproofing them both. Then eliminating the Rdog altogether. But I'm still not positive I haven't missed something in wiring that might have gotten "tweaked" during clearcoating, etc.
Quoted from Schwaggs:Check the playfield level switches for that sling. Make sure they are not closed. Make sure the terminals on those switches are not touching each other.
Check the wiring for that sling, make sure it isn't shorted. The 2 switches are wired in parallel and there are short jumper wires between the 2 sets of switches, make sure all that is solid.
Check the capacitor on the sling switch. Make sure it is not shorted. Remove it and try again as a troubleshooting step.
Playfield level switches are not closed and no terminals or wires are touching each other. Don't find any shorts in the wiring, and all wiring is solid and not loose or sketchy. I pulled off one end of the capacitor and retried the switch test but it still locks on. I think it is time to contact Rottendog about sending in the board. In the mean time I will keep my eye out for a system 7 MPU. I misspoke before and just realized I have the original driver board and a "spare" not the MPU. The original is in rough shape with some burn to it and a hack on the back. The "spare" looks initially to be in better shape and possibly a better candidate for bulletproofing.
BK original driver board back (resized).jpgBK original driver board front (resized).jpgBK spare driver board back (resized).jpgBK spare driver board front (resized).jpgJust curious if anyone is familiar with the Swemmer Electronics S7MPU006 replacement MPU. It looks like it is a new version of the original board with pretty much everything in the same layout as the original. Not finding much out there for a used system 7 MPU for sale.
Okay. So lets recap. I spoke to Jim at Rottendog today numerous times troubleshooting over the phone. In the long run he doesn't feel it is the board and the issue is somewhere on (under) the playfield. Again, nothing is looking out of place to me but I'm figuring I am overlooking something. I just installed four new kicker upright switches which I hadn't installed yet. Now, once I was able to get through switch test without the left kicker sticking and all the switches are open. During solenoid test the left kicker did not stick, but at some point during the test, the fuse blew. The machine turns on, lights up, no sound. Add balls and now the ball launch does not send them to the right ball ramp. Just tried test again and the left kicker is sticking upon pushing advance.
Quoted from Schwaggs:Before you send it off, try disconnecting 2J13 from the board and seeing if the sling still locks on. 2J13 is where the special switches (slings, pops, etc) enter the board. If it still locks on with this connector removed, you certainly have a board issue. If it no longer locks on, you have a wiring/switch problem.
If you have a board problem, might be worth testing the driver transistor for that solenoid to see if it failed. That is an easy replacement.
Both those boards are in workable shape. Your backup will end up being a cleaner board but neither is too far gone!
I just removed 2J13 from the board and the sling did not lock up. The left kicker did not fire, the right kicker did not fire and the pop bumper did not fire. So I think I've confirmed it is not the board. But I can not find what the hell the problem is. And like most things it is probably staring me in the face.
Quoted from dzorbas:Looks good. I think I like the clear posts more than I like the orange rubbers. I would have considered sprinkling around some red and blue. I definitely like the pop bumper. Can you post a close up of that?
I'll try to take some close-ups when I get home. Power on and power off. I picked up the cap and led portion from pinball life. And the clear bumper body from pinball-mods.com
20180925_230108 (resized).jpgIt is the original play field. I pulled all the Plastics and alcohol and Magic Erasered it. Did a light coat of spraymax 2K clear, did some touch-ups with an airbrush which came out Fair because I'm a novice. Then coats of clear spraymax 2K. Pic of the original playfield when I got it a few months ago below.
20180806_192645 (resized).jpgWaiting for my new to me used System 7 CPU to be repaired by Allan @ Ardvark. So I took the time to do some upgrades with some LED strip lighting. I used Comet's matrix system to add lighting on the right side upper playfield plastics. I will also do some LED strip lighting in the front of the upper playfield area that houses the 3 bayonet bulbs.
20181027_170714 (resized).jpg20181027_170721 (resized).jpg20181027_170833 (resized).jpg20181027_172012 (resized).jpg 1 week later
I've got to work into my schedule today, going down to pick up my BK board from Allan at Ardvark Pinball in Massachusetts. He called yesterday to say it was done. Also with a laundry list of repairs as well as what he thinks was a factory defect. I'm hoping this is a new beginning, and an end to my current troubleshooting.
1 week later
After taking a hiatus from doing too much on the BK, I got my board back from Allan at Ardvark. It looks almost as nice as the day it was new. In the meantime I replaced all the header pins on the driver board. I will replace all my connectors when I have time, since I placed a large Mouser order for connectors and trifurcon pins. I installed the boards yesterday morning. The game started up fine and did not stick the left slingshot. But it would not start a game. In switch test there were no stuck switches. I continued to play with the trough switches which seemed troublesome before. I had a couple of the ball trough switches that were intermittent. I chased continuity through the circuit and realized that the connector from the playfield to the head is wonky. I "tweaked" the connector and spayed with DeOxit and now it is working for the most part. I have been able to play several games without any major issues. I have several switches that are still not registering, and my pop bumper and right slingshot, which were firing in coil test do not currently work during the game. I will replace at least that one connector and will probably replace a fair amount of them, before I beat my head against a wall trying to troubleshoot too deeply. I do have a question concerning what connector to order from Mouser or Great Plains. It is a 15 pin plug/receptacle connector, but I am not sure if it is the .093" size Molex?
20181118_213000 (resized).jpg20181118_224237 (resized).jpgQuoted from Schwaggs:Congrats on getting it going! The connector in your picture is a 0.062 Molex. You need crimp on pins for one side and crimp on sockets for the other.
If you want to repair a single pin or a few pins or re-use the housings, you should pick up an extraction tool. They allow you to remove the pins and sockets from the housing. https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=140
Awesome. Thank you Schwaggs
Placed and order from Great Plains today for some pins and sockets and some plugs and receptacles, and an extraction tool. I will rebuild the connector once the parts arrive. I the meantime I installed nvram.weebly's Special Solenoid Saver. A super easy 10 minute install with the directions.
20181119_210943 (resized).jpgQuoted from sethbenjamin:Ooh, didn't know about that...saves the transistors, does it?
Did you replace the IDC connectors at the switch row and column connectors to the board? I had issues with some switches not registering after I had tested them all and found them working, then realized those connections to the board weren't making consistent contact. I had been reluctant to do those over because the IDC's have a number of "pass-through" contacts, but Allan advised me to go ahead and crimp 2 wires into one Trifurcon, just do both crimps on the wire and don't worry about crimping the insulation. Works just great.
Nothing like added protection. As far as the idc's, I just picked up an assortment from Mouser from 2 pin through 10 pin connectors with several hundred trifurcons. One of my next projects will be to go through and redo all the connectors going to the driver and CPU. But the connector I'm speaking of from the playfield to the back box is definitely a major issue right now.
Quoted from gutz:The position of the door switches will not affect the machine upon boot up. Also, only the middle one has up/down latching positions.
Vibe - your game is booting to audit mode. Are the batteries good? Holder good? Battery power getting to the ram? Or did you install nvram?
Once in audit mode, you can turn the machine on/off quickly to get it to attract mode. Or use the coin door switches to travel through the menus. This doesn't fix the underlying issue, and you will have to do it each power up.
My bad. When I have been doing switch/coil/lamp tests, etc. once I turn the game off and turn it back on it boots fine. But as you said the buttons do not affect booting.
2 weeks later
Quoted from MoSeS_1592:I think I know the answer to what I'm about to ask but just wanted to be sure so I'll ask it here. The Jet bumper coil in my BK is stuck ON. This is the only problem. I am guessing the TIP102/120 for this coil is most likely fried and needs replaced? Also, when I look at the manual it says transistors Q4 and Q6 control the coil. Why are there two TIP102/120's for this coil when all others have one TIP and a corresponding smaller pre-driver transistors? Also, could it be Q4 or Q6's pre-driver transistors casing the issue? The coil locks on instantly when the machine is turned on. Everything else in the machine works perfectly. Aside from fried transistors is there any other common problem to check for that could cause this issue?
Thanks!
Ironic, I just got my CPU and driver boards back from a minor repair. Installed boards and while trying to go through tests with the advance button on the coin door, my jet bumper is sticking on as soon as I press the advance button and I am blowing my solenoid fuse. I was just going to post about this. My switches are not stuck closed, but I'm not seeing anything to cause this visually. I had rebuilt one of my 36 pin playfield to backbox connectors and had incorrectly installed one pin knocking out a couple items on the CPU and the driver. I have triple checked my 36 pin after realizing my error and it is now correct.
I'm hoping to put this issue to bed. Fresh boards, and it boots up. When I credit a game, it immediately locks the jet bumper. I just replaced the lower half of the jet bumper switch that is actuated by the spoon and I have replaced the diode just in case. And it is doing the same thing. I feel I am so close to finally having a complete up and running BK. Any other thoughts?
20181211_220921 (resized).jpgQuoted from zacaj:Try disconnecting 2J13. If it still locks on you have a board issue. If it doesn't something on that line is shorted to ground
I just tried pulling 2J13 and when crediting a game the jet locked on. What transistor, etc. should I suspect? Odd, I just got the boards back and everything tested fine, but maybe I bumped something while installing or something.
I have a weebly solenoid saver fuse board for the special solenoids. When I remove the fuse for Q6 the jet bumper does not lock on. I am going to stop by my local electronics supply on the way home. Q6 is a TIP122, is Q5 the same, and what is the IC6, a 7408?
Sorry, just saw the post above about the Q5.
Quoted from northvibe:Whoa, that solenoid saver, I didn't know about. Just ordered one for my BK. It's going on route and that would be super sucky if a coil locked on.
Super easy 10 minute install.
I'm starting to think this BK is possessed. I tested the Q6 transistor and it was faulty. I removed the driver board and removed the old Q6 TIP 122 and soldered in a new TIP122 at Q6 and reinstalled the board. I didn't touch anything else. Now, when I turn on the machine, my playfield inserts, player one and credit displays flash on and then off in a split second. Then just my GI stays on with no inserts and no displays. I can't start a game. Jeeessshhhh. I am at wits end.
Screenshot_20181212-200446_Gallery (resized).jpgUpon powering up game the led display flashes 0 and the two led's light then display and led's go out. Pushing lower diagnostic button nothing happens, pressing higher button the 0 and the two leds come on but as soon as it is released, the display and the leds go out.
All is not good. No voltage at TP4, unless I am not grounding at a proper location. I have never tested at a test point before. This new problem didn't happen until I replaced the Q6 transistor, which makes no sense to me. I only removed the driver out of the backbox to do it and never even removed the CPU.
Okay. I will try when I get home. My back box does not have the middle support between the CPU and the driver. I had made a small block of wood just for support back there but maybe I should remove it just in case. And try to find an actual support.
Okay. I will try when I get home. My back box does not have the middle support between the CPU and the driver so I made a small block of wood just for support back there but maybe I should remove it just in case. And try to find an actual support.
Quoted from zacaj:I guess, to be doubly sure, you could also disconnect 2J12. If it still locked on, you have a short in the wiring. Very rare though.
Otherwise, Q6, Q5, and IC6 are the prime suspects. IC8 is probably fine, since that's what enables/disables the solenoids in game over. [quoted image]
Had my CPU and Driver out and on my bench tester with my Leon's test ROM. Ultimately I ended up doing a reset and put the boards back in. Diagnostics button works properly and flashes "0" with the two LED's and then "0" and LED's go out. Again while crediting a game, the jet bumper locks on. I just pulled the driver and replaced the IC6 with a new 7408. Reinstalled and it still locks the jet. I have a new 7402 I can install. Is there a way to test the 100 ohm resistor and the capacitor on the jet bumper switch (could that be a possibility)? Dang I want to get this up and running, I just got a CPR replacement plastics set for Christmas I need to install.
Quoted from Schwaggs:You can easily test the capacitor, just put your meter on resistance (ohms) and test across the cap with the power to the game off and the red lead on the plus side of the capacitor. If it is good, you should see a low resistance that increases over time. If it is bad, you will see a constant low resistance (close to zero).
Stupid question but it is hard to see from the pictures - the switch on the spoon is gaped ever so slightly open with the skirt at rest and the terminals of the switch are not touching, right?
I just tested the capacitor on the jet bumper. I am getting an increase up to 5.06 - 5.07 ohms either side I test it from. I also tested the slings since they are the same capacitor and I am getting the same reading.
I have just replaced the capacitor on the jet bumper switch. I have even adjusted the switch so it doesn't contact even when the spoon is depressed. Upon trying to credit a game or going into diagnostics it locks the jet. I now adjusted the switch so that it has continuity with my DMM. The other thing I did was trim the end of the score switch for the jet bumper because it looked fairly close to the spring and I know @Crispin had an issue with his Black Knight with the end of the switch grounding out on the spring. Not sure how, but it is not locking the jet bumper anymore. But it also isn't working. I have retested Q6 and Q5 and they both test good. I can play a game, but again with no jet bumper working.
20181228_201651 (resized).jpg20181228_201930 (resized).jpgQuoted from Schwaggs:Does the pop bumper coil fire in coil test? If so, you know the driver, coil and wiring is good and can focus on the switch side of the mechanism.
It does not fire in coil test. Sorry, forgot to mention that.
Quoted from northvibe:Huh.... what is a good replacement, nail or otherwise? I’m not sure on size/length, but I can swing by the HW store tomorrow.
Excited to play! I took apart the drop target mechs on the upper pf, and man were those dirty.
As @Travish says it is a small nail. I installed a metal post to support the plastic better on my rebuild. I also installed some nice supports behind the upper right drop targets instead of the nails.
20180925_160501 (resized).jpg20180925_160505 (resized).jpg 1 week later
1 week later
Allan at Ardvark Pinball in Mass does great work. http://www.ardvarkpr.com/
Quoted from chaskett:Mine had 5 screws. The fifth is in a deep hole along the top right rail.
I believe that's accurate. I think mine had five as well and one of them is in that upper right corner and the hole is deep.
2 weeks later
2 weeks later
Quoted from BrewersArcade:Does anyone have an extra plastic in nice shape that goes on the lower playfield behind the center drop targets and kickout? I snapped off the end of mine while snagging it on my tool...ARGH! There is one on eBay but wanted to reach out here if anyone had a nice one I could buy. Thanks in advance!
[quoted image]
I also have a CPR set unopened for mine. I dont think the one installed on my BK currently is damaged. Your welcome to it. You must have a long tool if you caught it while in the playing position. LOL 
Quoted from BrewersArcade:Huge thank you to ePeabs! Sent out a plastic to me for free. Really appreciate the kind gesture!!! Good pinball karma!
Glad I could help. Spreading good pinball Karma to all.
Obviously can't help you with the same plastic, but I can help you with the upper plastic. It does have one additional screw hole that you can see in the photo. This is due to the original nail used as a post in the stainless guide. The nail scratched the plastic so I drilled a hole and installed a screw instead of the nail. It also holds the plastic down nicer from years of incandescent heat. Let me know if you want it. The photo does not look great due to reflection, everything that is supposed to be black is black. The plastic does have one crack in it near bottom right acorn nut.
Quoted from chaskett:"I challenge thee to fight me."
[quoted image]
Is that the White Knight?
PinballLife has ones that should work. They won't exactly match the other drop target areas, but if you replaced those three at the left lower three bank, they will match each other. https://www.pinballlife.com/1-12-x-58-triangle-transparent-starburst-blue-playfield-insert.html
4 months later
Quoted from Mathazar:I got my BK about a year ago. When I got it, all that was needed were some leaf switch adjustments, some new bulbs (I wound up going with color matched LEDs), and flipper rebuilds to turn it into a nice player. It's been working fine since.
I finally decided to take care of one thing that's been bugging me since I got it - no coin slot lights to illuminate the red "Quarters" plate. One of the previous owners cut it out...literally. No lamp socket on the coin door, and I found two cut wires in the harness (solid yellow and yellow striped with white) that I assumed was for the coin slot lamp.
So, I spliced in some new wire, ran them to a spare lamp socket and mounted it, and sure enough the slot is now lit. Nice! My question:
When the lights on the pin go out during attract mode, and when they flash during the launching of multiball, the coin slight lamp does the same. Is that correct, or should the coin slot light remain illuminated solid during these times? I'm thinking that it's supposed to flash/go out like the other GI lights, but I honestly don't remember the coin slight light behaving like that when I was younger and playing BK in the arcades.
I just played several games on mine just to be sure, but my coin slot bulbs stay on all the time. Attract mode as well as multiball.
Quoted from Mathazar:epeabs - I don't suppose you could look at the lamp socket on your coin door for me? I'm wondering if there's supposed to be a capacitor across it - I looked on ipdb.com but still can't find a schematic or wiring diagram for the coin door. I checked a few different ~1980 Williams games on there including BK but none had the coin door.
Kris, no capacitors on mine. Some pix and the schematic with the coin door.
Quoted from frunch:Speaking of the coin door, does anyone know what goes in the center slot on this one? Is there a particular insert or decal or something for that space? There's a spot for a gi lamp behind it, so i figured it might have had some sort of insert like the "Quarters" signs that go in the adjacent ones.[quoted image]
Mine had a quarters slot. But I also realized when I disassembled it and cleaned my coin door and reassembled it, I didn't put things back in the proper position. My left coin slot which says quarters has the dollar size slot, and the other two have quarter-size slots even though one of them is marked dollars. Oops. Another small project to tackle.
20190730_195714 (resized).jpg20190730_195659 (resized).jpg20190730_195914 (resized).jpg 1 week later
Played around with some different lighting options for the back box tonight. Most of the LEDs I was trying seem to cause hot spots in most areas. I'd seen a version somewhere where someone used LED strip lighting. So I had some on hand in Warm White and redid the whole back box lighting with it. I really like it because it's very even. Picture makes it darker looking than it really is in person.
20190811_151605 (resized).jpg20190811_151632 (resized).jpg 1 month later
Quoted from Tbpilot78:Hey guys,new to the club but bk is a top ten for me and so happy to have a nice one but.......some fool sealed the bg with spray paint,wayyyyyy to red now,anyway where should i look for a better bg,i put a wanted ad up but wondered being so popular if someone was doing repo's or nos?
If you go to a show that Mayfair is at, he typically has a BK backglass or two. They are from the second Williams run in the 90s. I had picked one up at Pintastic, and it looks phenomenal. I believe he also ships if you call too. Picture doesn't do it justice.
20190811_151632 (resized).jpgQuoted from EilersPark:Question: Is this Bumper Post supposed to be exposed or remain hidden behind the metal guides? I just really noticed this when I put new rubbers on the machine and it doesn't seem like it serves a purpose the way it is now. When assembled the new CPR playfield I used all of their tapped screw holes to mount the metal guides. should those metal guides be moved expose that post? It seems like it would spare a lot of drains down the outside ramp.[quoted image]
I actually split a post sleeve and placed it around the post so that the ball wouldn't hit two metal ball guide ends. It doesn't interfere with the ball from any direction.
20181027_172012 (resized).jpgQuoted from Destin:I inquired about a new(old) backglass from Mayfair in late May of this year and here is his response. Hopefully he won't mind me posting this.
I have a quality reproduction Black Knight backglass that was made by Williams in 1996. It is just like the original in form and fit, and printed on glass not plastic. They upgraded the quality of the ink to address the issue of peeling on the original 1980 run. All colors including the mirroring are exactly like the original. It is simply perfect! I have sold dozens of these and never had a problem from a customer. The price on the glass is $275, add $45 for a trim package that includes a new stainless steel lift channel and plastic outside edge trim. Shipping is $75 East of Chicago, $95 West of Chicago in the USA. All backglasses are sent UPS fully insured. For International shipping ask for a quote. If using paypal add $20 for fees. If sending a US Postal Money order, no additional fees
I have his contact info and can send in a pm, I don't want to post in a public forum.
At Pintastic New England this year I paid $325 complete with all the channel and new lift bar. I did purchase a few other items with the "package" at the same time.
1 month later
Quoted from Heaterguy:Im in and Im loving my BK! Has anyone added a light on upper right playfield under the plastic? im thinking of doing so.
I ran cool white LED strip lighting under the right side upper playfield plastics with decent results. I also added a spotlight, hidden under the plastic at the front of the upper playfield.
20190928_152245 (resized).jpg20190928_152257 (resized).jpgQuoted from Michel_K17:Wow: that looks spectacular!
Do you have the specifics of your installation? (parts and location of your installation) - if available.
Here are some shots of the right upper playfield strip lighting. No photo of it, but I also installed some strip lighting in the bay between the two ramps on the upper playfield. I just used a Comet matric bulb and soldered a matrix connector to my strip wiring. I don't have a photo of the spotlight install but it was completely hidden under the plastic.
20181027_170714 (resized).jpg20181027_170721 (resized).jpg20181027_170833 (resized).jpgPromoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider epeabs.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
Reply
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!
Donate to PinsideGreat to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
