(Topic ID: 54503)

Black Knight Club...Members Only!


By mof

6 years ago



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  • 2,260 posts
  • 208 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 12 hours ago by Graysonsdad
  • Topic is favorited by 104 Pinsiders

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#2031 8 months ago

Rottengog MPU327 resets - SOLVED!

I wanted to revisit this topic as several folks had had issues with the Rottendog MPU327 resetting when both flippers are energized at the same time. In my case, I had a completely working machine before adding the MPU327. I was using a Rottendog PS board with all other OEM boards. No issues. When I swapped in the Rottendog MPU, the issue started happening. I checked connectors, voltages, etc. All good.

The issue appeared to be the GND reference between the MPU and PS boards. I added a dedicated wire with U connectors on it from board to board, attaching under a mounting screw on each board. It has been bullet proof for the last 2 years. I did pass this along to Jim to let him know as well.

I hope this helps

#2032 8 months ago

I just re-did all of the rubber on my Black Knight with Perfect Play Silicon Rubber from Pinball Wizard and man what a huge difference. The rubber on my machine was about 10 years old, but had been very light home use only. Now with the Perfect Play on there the machine plays like a whole new machine. It is an absolute rocket. I would highly recommend this!

#2034 8 months ago

Maybe they could have been weakened by disconnecting and reconnecting them. I have stock wiring harness connectors (original) and I suppose it is possible that it was the problem, however the problem only occurred after I changed to the Rottendog MPU, which is the same as reported by others. I could probably prove / disprove this by putting back my original System 7 boards but since it's working great I don't want to change anything. Not trying to throw Rottendog under the bus here but maybe the board does have some grounding issue. Regardless I just wanted to share my solution.

#2038 8 months ago
Quoted from Michel_K17:

I can vouch for CPR in regards to the quality of the print on the backglass, the rounded corners, as well as their customer service on an issue on my purchase which they are fixing by sending a replacement unit. Furthermore, they tell me that it is an official/licensed/approved design that is based on a NOS glass. Finally, their shipping box is flawless in regards to protecting the glass during shipment.
Out of curiosity on the Mayfair (NOS 2nd printing) vs CPR, does anyone know if the horse is dark grey or blue?
- My original BK black glass (early unit w/ transformer in the head) - horse (and knight) are very dark, and the horse color is dark grey
- My CPR replacement - the knight is much brighter (looks good) but the horse is a dark blue except for where the bulb is under the left hoof (bright blue);
- Mayfair replacement - is ???
Also, I am curious on how "new" the Mayfair units are in regards to scratches/damage since it sounds like they are over 20 years old.[quoted image]

I have a Mayfair glass that I got back in the early 2000s. The horse is dark grey (not blue) and the night is a darker grey.

BK Glass (resized).jpg
#2041 8 months ago

Question: Is this Bumper Post supposed to be exposed or remain hidden behind the metal guides? I just really noticed this when I put new rubbers on the machine and it doesn't seem like it serves a purpose the way it is now. When assembled the new CPR playfield I used all of their tapped screw holes to mount the metal guides. should those metal guides be moved expose that post? It seems like it would spare a lot of drains down the outside ramp.

bk bumper post (resized).jpg
2 months later
#2093 5 months ago

WTB: Green out lane proto plastics (with graphics right side up).

I'd like to get a set of the out lane proto plastics with the graphics the right side up. I got one of the early CPR sets with them upside down and CPR doesn't sell them individually.

PM me if you have some.

1 month later
#2107 4 months ago

HELP! The reset plate on one of my drop targets just broke off a finger. I looked around and didn't see one at Marco, Pinball Life, etc. Anybody have one, know where I can get one or have ideas on either fixing or fabricating one?

IMG_0031 (resized).JPG
#2113 4 months ago

Thanks for all the feedback. Unfortunately I can't find the missing broken finger. I went ahead and ordered the once from Marco and we'll see if they can work or be made to work. I'll report back.

I did find this link with 3D drawings of most everything including all of the parts in the drop target assembly including the reset plate. There is some cool stuff on this site. https://pinballmakers.com/wiki/index.php?title=Files_Section

#2119 4 months ago

Hold on before you make any electrical mods. I just updated my machine with Perfect Play silicon rubber all the way around including the flippers. This is the most amazing improvement I have done to the machine. With original rubbers, I could barely get up the left ramp, most times I wouldn't make it. Now it rockets off of the flippers. The machine is so much faster now. You might give it a try.

- Hans E.

#2125 4 months ago
Quoted from EilersPark:

Thanks for all the feedback. Unfortunately I can't find the missing broken finger. I went ahead and ordered the once from Marco and we'll see if they can work or be made to work. I'll report back.
I did find this link with 3D drawings of most everything including all of the parts in the drop target assembly including the reset plate. There is some cool stuff on this site. https://pinballmakers.com/wiki/index.php?title=Files_Section

I got my parts in from Marco and I am happy to report that they work fine after a slight mod. I just trimmed the top edge out to form the 3 fingers and it worked like a champ. The fingers on the new one were slightly longer but work just fine.

IMG_0053 (resized).jpgIMG_0054 (resized).jpg
1 month later
#2154 88 days ago

Mine is a system 7 with the transformer in the cab, the button was centered on mine. here are before restore and after new stencils.

DSC_0092 - Front Cab (resized).JPGDSC_0230 - Stencils Front Done (resized).JPG
2 months later
#2186 20 days ago
Quoted from EilersPark:

WTB: Green out lane proto plastics (with graphics right side up).
I'd like to get a set of the out lane proto plastics with the graphics the right side up. I got one of the early CPR sets with them upside down and CPR doesn't sell them individually.
PM me if you have some.

A quick update. I picked up a set of these on Ebay from ClassicArcades. Based on the pictures they didn't look like an exact match with the CPR ones, but for the price I thought I would take a chance. The size, shape and fit is good, the artwork is good except it goes all the way out to the edge unlike original or CPR plastics and the deal breaker for me, the green color is off. The CPR ones match the green on the playfield, these don't so I decided not to use them. I'm not upset with ClassicArcades, their price was fair and for some these may work, I'm just picky. Here is a picture to compare.

BK Proto Green (resized).jpeg
1 week later
#2233 11 days ago
Quoted from frenchmarky:

I’m going to keep the ClassicArcades ones I got this week of the ‘prototype’ lane guides. Yeah these don’t have transparent edges but the green vs. the tiny bit of green there is on my original plastics looks the same to me, and honestly since I put them on I totally forgot they were even there during play especially since they aren’t backlit. Every version has something 'wrong' with it - they either look dumb upside down or the art is non-original because somebody flipped it. If Williams had printed them correctly but still not used them or they had used them on some first run games, even upside down, THEN I’d be obsessed with getting those exact ones even if I had to buy a whole set. And nobody seems to be sure exactly how these were planned to be mounted... like this, or stacked above the guides on posts, or without the steel guides altogether and lit. They are a nice touch though. [quoted image]

Looks Good!! maybe I'll re-evaluate and put mine back on.

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