Quoted from MoSeS_1592:

Please confirm... in the default settings, two or three captured balls intended to start multiball do NOT carry over each turn if multiball is not achieved before round is over, right? Meaning you need lock two/ three balls AND achieve multiball on the same round or else the locked balls don't count and the locked multiball counter resets, correct?

Quoted from Andy_B:

Can someone let me know what supports the end of this plastic between the ramps. Some sort of standoff I guess that must have been there when I stripped the pin down.....
Thanks.[quoted image]

Quoted from frenchmarky:

Here's my Black Knight, bought around '85. The owner had it in his living room by itself and he might have even bought it brand new (can't remember, long ago) but the cabinet hasn't a scratch so I could believe it. I've never had to 'fix' anything save for shopping it, and the usual pf cleanings, rubbers, switch cleaning etc. when needed. Doubt the boards have ever been touched, I ain't laid a finger on 'em. I did add a #44 socket under the plastics above the shooter lane and next to the top right flipper that can be reversed also, just looked like they should be lit to me. I can't believe it's been 35 years![quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from jibmums:

Mine couldn't be more perfectly aligned in the center. I wonder if it's an early versus late production game thing.

Quoted from zacaj:

Mine is centered, early production/system 6 power supply

Quoted from Michel_K17:

Same here: centered and early system 6 PS.

Quoted from EilersPark:

Mine is a system 7 with the transformer in the cab, the button was centered on mine. here are before restore and after new stencils.[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Michel_K17:

I very much like the original "jeweled" look of the inserts on my BK, but some inserts have faded, particularly the blue one. I have done an LED conversion using the dimmest "retro" LEDs from Comet (and a few non-ghosting for the problem bulbs). Unfortunately, they all have white domes, which appear very white through the inserts.
I have had success using 10mm gel boot caps (for car instrument panels) which you can get for different colours from ebay: ebay.com link » 10 Qty Red 10mm T10 168 192 Light Bulb Color Caps Covers Toyota Honda Import
In summary: Green and Blue worked great, but the Red ones hardly make a difference. I only concentrated on the inserts close to the player. The ones on the upper playfield are too far to be visible.
And obviously, this is only a problem in moderately bright rooms.
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Quoted from Michel_K17:

Here's mine: 1/4" thick foam seal with sticky back. It prevents fly-throughs 99% of the time, so yours is better. Just using what I have around the house. [quoted image]

Quoted from ArcadeBar:

Thanks for the help! Yes a buddy and myself had been combing through the machine trying to find the source of an intermittent start button issue that ended up just being a loose connector in the neck of the backbox. But before that all lights had been working. I'll try to follow these lines and see what I can find. THX

Quoted from ArcadeBar:

Yes thats actually what happened yesterday! I followed that yellow/orange-stripe wire up into the backbox and reseated the connector on the board, and also found a connector in the next of the backbox that I pressed firmly together. We had previously solved the start button issue by finding a larger connector in the neck of the backbox that wasn't snug and so it was most likely the same case with this smaller connector that was in there with this lamp wire. Thanks again for the help - Back in full Black![quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from KnockerPTSD:

Board work is not my forte. I have a flash board with a black knight add on thing stamped 1982. I was told the flash board is fine but clearly not. I see some wire jumping to the tiny Black knight 82 "board". I have completely disconnected this board out of curiosity and it doesnt seem to do a damned thing. As far as I can tell, the game plays the same. I've included lots of pics of the boards and the add on board. Maybe someone with lots of experience will spot my flaw no problem. I'm mechanical inclined so I like tinkering with playfield mechs but computers are totally alien to me. I dont even own one.
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Quoted from KnockerPTSD:

Dumb feeling question but should all the legs be the same length on this game?
I have the the front down as far as they'll go and the back up as high as they'll go. Not the most stable and I'd still like it even steeper tbh. I've got your standard 28" something legs all around.

Quoted from HHaase:

So, I dug up an old pinside thread that had another little perfboard almost idential to that one, but in a firepower. I'm very confused as to the purpose.
Both have "Copywrite F.M.T." on them. I wonder who that was. Much less random at this point since the Firepower board looks identical.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/firepower-what-is-this-little-board
-Hans

Quoted from KnockerPTSD:

I'm looking at getting some.board work done. Maybe someone can help me.out here to see what might be more worth it? I'm not good with board knowledge thanks. What boards/parts would be needed if buying updated boards like rottendog or similar products? I want to price out the costs/benefits of installing new boards that will never be an issue in my lifetime vs an unknown amount of board repairs that may need to be worked on again down the road (oh, and the battery pack moved/eliminated)
(For anyone unfamiliar with my issues in the last page or 2, game is playable but has hacks and plays incorrectly/not as intended)
I'm doing the whole Hardtop project anyway so it may be worth it to get new boards and I can follow basic install instructions. I'm not a dummy, I just would be utterly lost trying to locate the source of my grief on the existing boards. Still leaning toward cheaper repair job but it all depends just how expensive these new parts cost. Like I implied, I dont even know what is necessary to get a Black Knight up and running in the first place.
Thanks again guys.
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Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:

It only took me 3 months but I finally beat the default high score!
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Quoted from timk:

Hi! New guy here, just revived my long-dormant Black Knight and am having a problem where it always powers up in diagnostic/setting mode and with setting values at default. I go through the setting procedure to put it into freeplay & 5-ball and all's good; game play works fine. Until I turn the power off and back on again, at which point I'm back into diagnostic/setting mode and have lost those setting changes. So I change them again and all's good again.
Have any of you run into this issue and/or have any suggestions what to check beyond that the three AA batteries are good (they are).
And now for a little introduction: I bought my Black Knight back in 1993 or 4, played it for about 5 years or so, and then it stopped working. It has sat collecting dust for the last 20 years until last month when I decided it was time to get it back in action. The CPU self-test was returning a different number every time, and sometimes displaying random led segments that didn't even make a digit, so I figured I had a circuit board problem of some sort. Sent the main & driver board to Tim Nabours for repair and when I got them back yesterday the game was up and running in short order. While I was waiting for the board repair I replaced the o-rings which had deterioriated badly, and when I got it back up and running I replace a handful of burnt bulbs, but otherwise it's unrestored and original. I have a couple minor issues with lights that aren't as simple as dead bulbs, but I'll ask about those in a different post if I can't figure it out myself.
After looking at the playfield pics here I have concluded that mine is what would be called a "high mileage example" in the motorcycle restoration/collecting field (my main hobby). I didn't even know the drop targets were supposed to have art on them -- mine are just bare pink -- and the "When Lit" part in the center of the Magna-Save is completely worn off.
Anyway, that ran on longer than I planned -- excited to find this community and super happy to be playing my Black Knight again, and thanks in advance for any help that you all might be able to provide.
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Added 15 days ago: Following up... Got the playfield lights working (should've waited a bit before taking and uploading that pic I guess) and found some info in one of my manuals that seemed relevant to my main problem described above, but it didn't solve it.
I have a booklet of schematics which includes a couple introductory pages of assembly & setup. In the Power Turn-On and Game Setup section, paragraph 2 part b says:
If the game still comes on in the diagnostic mode, open the coin door and turn the game OFF, and ON twice. This is an indication of the batteries being removed with the power OFF or coming loose during shipment. [note -- I did remove the batteries with the power off to check their voltage and so this seemed relevant] This has also resulted in features reverting to factory settings. Any changes from factory settings must be reentered using procedures provided in the instruction booklet. [again, right in line with what I'm experiencing]
So I thought, eureka! But no. If I leave the game powered off for more than a few minutes it comes back on in diagnostics mode. Argh.
The next paragraph (3) says:
If the game still comes on in the diagnostic mode, refer to troubleshooting procedures in the maintenance manual.
I don't have the maintenance manual, just the instruction booklet and the schematic booklet with these setup instructions.
So still stuck and hoping one of you more experienced Black Knight owners will have a clue or two for me. Thanks.