(Topic ID: 54503)

Black Knight Club...Members Only!


By mof

6 years ago



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  • 2,261 posts
  • 209 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 hours ago by BlackxDragon
  • Topic is favorited by 104 Pinsiders

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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider dakotamike.
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#2096 5 months ago

I'm in the club! Picked up my first pinball machine on Saturday--a pretty nice Black Knight! So excited! Loving it! This machine is loaded; way ahead of its time. In a lot of ways I think it beats some system 11's in the feature and gameplay department.

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#2099 5 months ago
Quoted from MoSeS_1592:

Please confirm... in the default settings, two or three captured balls intended to start multiball do NOT carry over each turn if multiball is not achieved before round is over, right? Meaning you need lock two/ three balls AND achieve multiball on the same round or else the locked balls don't count and the locked multiball counter resets, correct?

Hey, 10 months later follow-up. For me, I like changing the game adjustment so that it saves the locks after ball drain. It technically makes the game a little easier, but for me BK can be a pretty mean game anyway, so that's not a bad thing. Plus, saving ball-locks between ball drains feels a lot more modern. So when I set it to retain locks, it makes BK feel that much more ahead of its time for me. Lastly, its really annoying to lock 2 balls, and then drain and have to start completely over. You all ready have to start over with your bonus and drop bank lights, so I think that's enough punishment.

But hey, to each their own!

2 weeks later
#2101 5 months ago
Quoted from Andy_B:

Can someone let me know what supports the end of this plastic between the ramps. Some sort of standoff I guess that must have been there when I stripped the pin down.....
Thanks.[quoted image]

Yeah, mine's got a thin metal post/pin. Goes down to the wood. I'm not sure if its actually screwed in or not. Can't get a picture right now, but I'll post one later if no one else pops in sooner.

3 weeks later
#2130 4 months ago

Whew, finally beat my old High Score! I set the GC (2.6mil) like 3 days after I bought it, but before I'd really had a chance to dial in the pitch and levelness just right. And so it didn't feel like a "true" high score. Its been driving me bonkers trying to top it. My closest games being in the 2.2 to 2.3mil range. Then finally I kinda gave up and accepted that I was never gonna beat that score.

Low and behold, I took a 2-week break, came back, and knocked it out on like my third game! I think what really helped was that I was totally relaxed, and not even thinking about getting a high score. I only got one set of drops down before draining on ball 1, and had a short 100k ball 2, so I was like, "Well, definitely no hope of a GC this game!" But I ended up having a spectacular ball 3, earning an EB, and having a really great EB too. Before I took a break, I would start to get really tense every time I had a good ball going, and I think that hurt my play. Whereas this time, I didn't even really look at my score while I was playing, so that helped a lot I think.

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3 weeks later
#2134 3 months ago
Quoted from frenchmarky:

Here's my Black Knight, bought around '85. The owner had it in his living room by itself and he might have even bought it brand new (can't remember, long ago) but the cabinet hasn't a scratch so I could believe it. I've never had to 'fix' anything save for shopping it, and the usual pf cleanings, rubbers, switch cleaning etc. when needed. Doubt the boards have ever been touched, I ain't laid a finger on 'em. I did add a #44 socket under the plastics above the shooter lane and next to the top right flipper that can be reversed also, just looked like they should be lit to me. I can't believe it's been 35 years![quoted image][quoted image]

Looks good. Cool story. Although I see yours has the mildly-annoying misaligned stencil on the front of the cab. Sometimes the start button is right in the center of the sword handle, and sometimes it's off to the side. Not sure if it's where they drilled the hole, or if they modified the stencil at some point in the run.

#2136 3 months ago

Hmm...I'd be curious what the ratio of aligned to not-aligned is. Maybe others could chime in? Here's mine:

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#2139 3 months ago

So far, 2 offset and 2 aligned!

#2142 3 months ago

Yeah, looks like the horse and sword are shifted to the right on the centered ones. On the offset ones, you can actually see the left-hand horse's front-legs fully.

Quoted from jibmums:

Mine couldn't be more perfectly aligned in the center. I wonder if it's an early versus late production game thing.

Could be. Not sure of the manufacture date, but mine is a System 7. Weren't some of the earlier BKs System 6's? Wonder if there's any correlation?

#2146 3 months ago
Quoted from zacaj:

Mine is centered, early production/system 6 power supply

Quoted from Michel_K17:

Same here: centered and early system 6 PS.

Well, there goes the late-run vs early-run theory. We're making real scientific progress here! Maybe it just depended on what guy was doing the stenciling that day? Although it seems weird that the stencil guys wouldn't all just align them to the sword. Maybe some of the stencilers were cross-eyed or something?

#2147 3 months ago

Tally stands at 5 centered vs 3 offset. With no apparent correlation to production date.

1 week later
#2155 3 months ago
Quoted from EilersPark:

Mine is a system 7 with the transformer in the cab, the button was centered on mine. here are before restore and after new stencils.[quoted image][quoted image]

Oh, I thought the 6's were the ones with the transformer in the cab? How do you tell if you have a system 6 or system 7 then?

#2160 84 days ago
Quoted from Michel_K17:

I very much like the original "jeweled" look of the inserts on my BK, but some inserts have faded, particularly the blue one. I have done an LED conversion using the dimmest "retro" LEDs from Comet (and a few non-ghosting for the problem bulbs). Unfortunately, they all have white domes, which appear very white through the inserts.
I have had success using 10mm gel boot caps (for car instrument panels) which you can get for different colours from ebay: ebay.com link ยป 10 Qty Red 10mm T10 168 192 Light Bulb Color Caps Covers Toyota Honda Import
In summary: Green and Blue worked great, but the Red ones hardly make a difference. I only concentrated on the inserts close to the player. The ones on the upper playfield are too far to be visible.
And obviously, this is only a problem in moderately bright rooms.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Yeah, I've run into similar issues trying to LED the inserts. In the end, I've got an LED GI, and incandescents for the inserts. Even just having the GI LED'ed reduces the power draw quite a bit.

#2161 84 days ago
Quoted from Michel_K17:

Here's mine: 1/4" thick foam seal with sticky back. It prevents fly-throughs 99% of the time, so yours is better. Just using what I have around the house. [quoted image]

Yeah, I used a piece of cardboard roughly that shape and size, and covered/attached it with silver duct tape. Can't be seen, and even if you could, it just looks like the metal guide. Haven't had any fly-throughs since.

3 weeks later
#2171 60 days ago
Quoted from ArcadeBar:

Thanks for the help! Yes a buddy and myself had been combing through the machine trying to find the source of an intermittent start button issue that ended up just being a loose connector in the neck of the backbox. But before that all lights had been working. I'll try to follow these lines and see what I can find. THX

I'd also recommend wiggling the connectors for the lamps, that plugs into the main board. I had a string of lights out on mine, and fixed it by just wiggling and re-seating the connector in the back box. You never know, could get lucky!

#2173 59 days ago
Quoted from ArcadeBar:

Yes thats actually what happened yesterday! I followed that yellow/orange-stripe wire up into the backbox and reseated the connector on the board, and also found a connector in the next of the backbox that I pressed firmly together. We had previously solved the start button issue by finding a larger connector in the neck of the backbox that wasn't snug and so it was most likely the same case with this smaller connector that was in there with this lamp wire. Thanks again for the help - Back in full Black![quoted image][quoted image]

Looks good! I always appreciate finding a Black Knight without wear spots on the Magna-save circles.

1 month later
#2206 23 days ago
Quoted from Graysonsdad:

Board work is not my forte. I have a flash board with a black knight add on thing stamped 1982. I was told the flash board is fine but clearly not. I see some wire jumping to the tiny Black knight 82 "board". I have completely disconnected this board out of curiosity and it doesnt seem to do a damned thing. As far as I can tell, the game plays the same. I've included lots of pics of the boards and the add on board. Maybe someone with lots of experience will spot my flaw no problem. I'm mechanical inclined so I like tinkering with playfield mechs but computers are totally alien to me. I dont even own one.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Huh, there's definitely some custom stuff going on there in the backbox. Drop-target banks should definitely be acting independently. Have you tried taking the batteries out to reset all the settings back to default? Might be worth seeing what happens, unless you all ready did that. Also, that wear around the bumper is a little strange, I would have thought the mylar-ring would have prevented that. Unless of course your bumper doesn't have one.

Quoted from Graysonsdad:

Dumb feeling question but should all the legs be the same length on this game?
I have the the front down as far as they'll go and the back up as high as they'll go. Not the most stable and I'd still like it even steeper tbh. I've got your standard 28" something legs all around.

Pretty sure my Black Knight's back legs were longer than the front ones. Don't have it anymore to check, but I'm 99% sure that they were.

#2213 23 days ago
Quoted from HHaase:

So, I dug up an old pinside thread that had another little perfboard almost idential to that one, but in a firepower. I'm very confused as to the purpose.
Both have "Copywrite F.M.T." on them. I wonder who that was. Much less random at this point since the Firepower board looks identical.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/firepower-what-is-this-little-board
-Hans

In the words of Mr. Spock...Fascinating.

1 week later
#2246 13 days ago
Quoted from Graysonsdad:

I'm looking at getting some.board work done. Maybe someone can help me.out here to see what might be more worth it? I'm not good with board knowledge thanks. What boards/parts would be needed if buying updated boards like rottendog or similar products? I want to price out the costs/benefits of installing new boards that will never be an issue in my lifetime vs an unknown amount of board repairs that may need to be worked on again down the road (oh, and the battery pack moved/eliminated)
(For anyone unfamiliar with my issues in the last page or 2, game is playable but has hacks and plays incorrectly/not as intended)
I'm doing the whole Hardtop project anyway so it may be worth it to get new boards and I can follow basic install instructions. I'm not a dummy, I just would be utterly lost trying to locate the source of my grief on the existing boards. Still leaning toward cheaper repair job but it all depends just how expensive these new parts cost. Like I implied, I dont even know what is necessary to get a Black Knight up and running in the first place.
Thanks again guys.
[quoted image]

Yeah, your best bet is probably a good board-repair person. I'm pretty sure the Rottendog boards are know to have some issues. Mainly sound-related I believe, but others would be more familiar than me.

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