Quoted from scottmaggie:Also the decals are a modded logo I found online.
Love the blue/red targets! Totally makes sense.
(Topic ID: 54503)
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Black Knight
Williams, 1980-
Black Knight Limited Edition
Williams, 1981
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Quoted from scottmaggie:New drop targets in red & blue to match the arrows pointing to them (This took some modding of the new style targets to make them work)
Just found this... Print any color you like of the T style drops!
1 week later
I joined the club today, picked up a nice player's table that was well maintained on route! NVRAM, new sound board, xpin displays, NOS backglass, no wear on magna save, decent cabinet.
I've read this entire topic and I'm stoked to be apart of the group. Looking forward to installing LEDs and learning more about the machine. Not sure how I feel about the green Xpin displays...
P.S. first thing is first, i already have on hand the correct hot stamped red bumper cap.
Quoted from chaskett:Not sure how I feel about the green Xpin displays...
[quoted image]
Now that I have played several games, I really like the green displays! Its a nice contrast to the yellow glow of the backglass and is going to make the green inserts on the playfield pop when i install LEDs. The pictures fade the green out a bit. Its a much deeper green in person.
20180824_084959 (resized).jpgHey all, I am developing some diagrams for lighting the machine with LEDs.
How are you all lighting the right side (encircled in Blue)? I was thinking of using a bulb with a matrix cord between the two right ramps and 2 4" LED strips under the blue plastics.
The area encircled in Yellow i was considering using double flex head comet lights to light the upper playfield. How are you getting extra light thrown onto the upper playfield in this area?
The pop bumper I was thinking of just throwing an Comet Opmax LED light in so it would hopefully illuminate more of the upper playfield. what's your strategy?
Quoted from hawknole:For the blue area I use matrix jumped off the sword plastic nearby on the lower level. For the yellow I use 3 matrix 7 LED frosted
Cool! Would you mind taking some photos of the setup?
Quoted from Schwaggs:I just used sunlight white in all the standard GI sockets and that alone really brought the playfield to life.
The arrow to the lower lock saucer should be green, not red.
Thanks for the suggestions! Isn't sunlight white tinted blue? Or is that natural White? Also, my lower lock insert is red for some reason.
Screenshot_2018-08-30-09-21-44 (resized).pngQuoted from Schwaggs:Sunlight is right between Natural white (the blueish one) and warm white (the amber one). It looks the best to me personally but they make the various shades for a reason!
Also, I use frosted for all my GI, even LEDs I can't directly see. It disperses the light better in my opinion. Less chance of a visible hot spot on the plastics.
Interesting your lock insert is red! Mine is green!
Totally with you on the frosted debate. Would you mind sending or posting a photo of yours with the GI on and room lights off? I found a photo of @hawknole 's and it looks sweet with the matrix lights surrounding the upper playfield.
805b3bbe0a542c45c5716386dfb8f6f9a08c6cd9 (resized).jpgQuoted from hawknole:Per request, lights in the upper playfield.
White dot gone with an apron decal.[quoted image]
hawknole That looks sweet! Would you mind taking the plastics off to show how you have the matrix lights setup?
Factory high score beat, instruction cards installed, rubber kit ready in waiting, backglass LEDs futzed with, black cabinet scuffs touched up with Tester's paint pen, 2 new pingulps installed, and Comet order placed! He's coming up nicely for 2 weeks of ownership. Gonna try 4 flame bulbs at the backglass feet and hooves (only 2 installed in the below picture).
I am getting some red/blue targets 3D printed at my library, so in preparation, I printed out some of scottmaggie custom targets and cut them with my vinyl cutter. I have extra sets and can make more if anyone is interested, PM me. They are inkjet printed on matte vinyl with single sided laminate on top for the glossy protective layer. I used
hawknole 's method for printing/laminating. The install picture below is from Scott's machine.
Black Knight speech quotes from the manual...
Random start button phrases:
"Defend thyself, Knight."
"I challenge thee to fight me."
"You cannot fight and win."
"I will slay you, my enemy."
"The BLACK KNIGHT will win again."
"The BLACK KNIGHT will slay you."
"Fight against me, the BLACK KNIGHT."
"I will slay thee, Knight."
"Fight against 2 enemies" - 2 ball multiball
"Fight against 3 enemies" - 3 ball multiball
"Ah ha ha ha" - Magna Save drain
"I cannot slay you. You win." - win free game
"Fight me again, Knight." - win extra ball
"One enemy cannot fight the BLACK KNIGHT again." - end of one player game
"You win the right to fight the BLACK KNIGHT again." - end of multiplayer game to introduce timed bonus ball for player with the most points
"You win one fight. I challenge thee again." - win high score to date
"The BLACK KNIGHT will win again." - Match
"Will you challenge the BLACK KNIGHT again?" - Game Over
Quoted from jibmums:Just in case you'd like to re-typeset parts of your cards with the actual Black Knight font, here's a link to download the closest thing available to it:
https://www.1001freefonts.com/ds-cathedral.font
The original Black Knight artwork used a Chartpak or Letraset rub-off lettering typeface called "Cathedral" by Martin Wait. The font above is a knock-off of it.
Awesome, thanks! I used the "What the font" app to find the ones i used but none were spot on. I was thinking of making some changes and this will do nicely! Also the jpg i posted is not the high res PDF i used to print. If anyone wants the PDF, let me know.
1 week later
Quoted from frunch:I dealt with the same problem on my BK at some point, SpaceAce. The solution was exactly what chaskett said--make sure that nail on the metal guide rail is firmly pressing the guide rail into the wood next to it. Just like he said, a good whack with a nail punch might just be the solution. Good luck!
One other thought: you said you pulled the game out of storage recently. Has it been properly leveled since? I'm wondering if maybe the playfield is flexing a little bit or something due to an unleveled stance. That's more of a shot in the dark though.
Keep an eye on the guide and nail after several plays. Chances are the hole is worn and the nail will pull out again. You might have to pull the nail with tweezers or needle nose pliers, break off a toothpick in the hole, and then reinsert the nail with a small hammer and punch. Here are the tools i used for the job and i didn't have to remove anything from the playfield.
1537291686631-1201932192 (resized).jpg
Quoted from Travish:Also space, your missing your tilt bob.
SpaceAce , the hanging pendulum thingy.
tilt (resized).jpg
I was having an issue where the upper lock wasn't registering if i had 2 balls in the apron trough. I would then have to repeatedly hit the flipper buttons to get the ball to eject into the shooter lane, with no lock ball register. I figured out the kicker arm in the trough was getting stuck in the up position not allowing the apron trough ball to register and move into the "on deck" shooter position. Apparently hitting the flipper button would shimmy the ehect arm eventually. Removed the arm, cleaned the pivot pin with alcohol, lubed the pivot with synthetic oil, and all is working as it should! Just a reminder to keep your metal on metal joints lubed with an oil that won't attract dirt to gum up the machine. Metal on nylon and nylon on nylon never need lubed.
2018-09-20 13.45.06 (resized).jpg20180919_132336 (resized).jpg 1 week later
Quoted from SpaceAce:So... I discovered a miraculous feature of my machine. It makes screws disappear into thin air.
How to make this work.
1. Try changing a bulb and loosening the screw so you can get the bulb out.
2. Accidentally drop the screw.
3. While looking in the wrong place for where you think it will drop, it must hit the speaker.
So you start the search. You will see... it's gone. Nowhere to be found. Poof! Pretty amazing stuff Williams was able to make.
This little $2 telescoping magnet is a life saver. Hold it against the screw head with one hand and your screw driver in the other hand. No more wondering screws. Also works as a lost screw divining wand!
1538146512280-1381918481 (resized).jpgQuoted from Toyguy:As an aside for future readers, it is quite simple to remove the drop targets in order to re-sticker them. To start, make sure the targets are reset. You can do this easily by manually raising the reset bracket attached to the coil.
On each drop target bank you will notice 2 metal bars going across the bank frame, each with 4 screws in it. Remove the lower bar completely but leave the two end screws in place to hold the coil bracket loosely or it may fall out along with the coil. Alternatively, you can also loosen the last screw and swing the bar out of the way but I found it just as easy to take it off completely. Next, remove two screws at the bottom of the target assembly that hold the switch plate on and remove the switch plate. You can let it dangle or tie it up.
Once that's done, support the bottom of a target with your fingertip and from the top of the playfield, release the target to drop down. The spring will pull it down and you use your finger to keep it from flinging off. The target will then simply come out.
Clean the target up, taking care to check and tighten any loose screws holding the copper spring or the coil spring in place. Remove any lube as none is needed and re-apply your decals. To reinstall, reverse the process. Take the loose end of the attached spring and loop it over the retaining finger on the target frame. Use one of the other targets as a reference. Once the spring is hooked, ease the target up into the frame while holding the copper spring flat against the target until it slips under the upper crossbar. Once it's under the crossbar, just slide the target all the way up until it resets and hangs in the up position. With a flashlight, verify that the spring loop is caught on the retaining pin and the copper spring is under the upper crossbar. Reattach the lower crossbar and manually raise the reset plunger. Then fit the switch plate back into place and secure with the 2 screws. Check the adjustment on the leaf switches and give them a quick cleaning with a business card or burnisher. That's it! Rinse and repeat...
It's easy once you've done the first one or two. I've done my two lower banks. When I do the upper ones next I will try to add some photos here also.
Post edited by Toyguy: Slight modification to the steps, to suggest removing the switch plate.
I book marked this post a month or so ago. It was super helpful installing my new 3d printed drop targets with custom decals!
20180928_114801 (resized).jpgQuoted from pb456:Are you using PETG? What model are you using for these? Where'd you source the decals?
Have any luck printing other cool parts?
Thanks in advance!
All the information is in this topic. It is a williams drop target posted on thingaverse. I don't have a printer, but my library does. I was suggesting their strongest material, but they thought PLA would be best because of the smoothness. They thought the strength would be good enough. Time will tell. If i did it over, I would remove the ridges in the rear and make the target thicker.
The graphic from one of the posters in this topic. I printed on printable vinyl and laminated with one sided self adhering laminate. I printed extra if you're interested.
I have printed other parts, but nothing that takes as much abuse as a drop target.
Quoted from chaskett:All the information is in this topic. It is a williams drop target posted on thingaverse. I don't have a printer, but my library does. I was suggesting their strongest material, but they thought PLA would be best because of the smoothness. They thought the strength would be good enough. Time will tell. If i did it over, I would remove the ridges in the rear and make the target thicker.
The graphic from one of the posters in this topic. I printed on printable vinyl and laminated with one sided self adhering laminate. I printed extra if you're interested.
I have printed other parts, but nothing that takes as much abuse as a drop target.
Welp... that didn't take long. The flat "T" bottom broke off on 2 of the six drop targets I installed after about 20 games. Back to the drawing board. 
Quoted from chaskett:Welp... that didn't take long. The flat "T" bottom broke off on 2 of the six drop targets I installed after about 20 games. Back to the drawing board.
Update... glued the bottoms back on with locktite professional liquid super glue and so far so good after around 10 plays. I love this stuff:
1 week later
Quoted from frunch:Damn!
Is that set to 3 or 5 balls?
5 balls, but one player with no timed bonus ball.
Quoted from Mathazar:Here's mine...I did this a few weeks ago. 3 balls, single player (no bonus ball). I got two extra balls along the way for a total of 5 for that game. Took a little more than a half hour...I was actually getting tired and wondering when it would end! Ironically, when I snapped this photo, it also caught the high score on my Eight Ball Deluxe. My 16 year old son did that a few weeks ago (5 ball setting) beating me by 300K and ever since then I've been playing EBD 3 to 5 times a day trying to get my high score back![quoted image]
Nice! My BK hi score took me a few weeks after my best friend came over and, after never having played the game before that night, beat my hi score on our last game of the night.
"It's more fun to compete."
Quoted from Travish:I took off the rubber caps and used polished stainless acorn nuts.
I have done this to all the games i've owned (with the exception of my 300 which already had them). Gives them that classic EM look.
1 month later
Hey all, If you don't want to overspend on an LED kit. Here's a diagram I've put together of how I lit mine using all comet bulbs. It lights up all the dark areas with Comet's matrix system (super easy to use). The only thing I haven't done yet is install the blue "cave" light because I haven't done an entire tear down of the playfield. Hope this helps some of you out. I will post a speread sheet with the specific bulbs later.
EDIT: Should be 44 total LEDs in the head
BK - BACKBOX LED (resized).jpgBK - PLAYFIELD LED (resized).jpg
Quoted from Andre:Nicely LED Black Knight,well done!
Might take you up on that LED list later on...Debating a hardtop with myself right know.
I know i don't have the talent to bring back my playfield from the deads so...leaning toward a hardtop.
Sacrilege?
Thanks! Sacrilege?! Nope. You are bringing back the shine to an old machine.
On another note here is a video of the LED'd game someone somewhere else asked about:
Quoted from HHaase:If anybody is watching that new Kurt Russell movie on Netflix "The Christmas Chronicles".....
Keep a close eye on the background in the garage scene. Our favorite machine makes a guest appearance, and unlike movies of old, the pins don't get smashed.
-Hans
It was surprisingly a pretty good movie.
1 week later
Quoted from Yesh23:Thank you!!
Its the ground for the magna save. The magnet won't work unless these are connected.
2 weeks later
Quoted from dzorbas:I just had a look at mine. It would be much easier to unscrew the socket from the bottom of the playfield and swap the bulb. It might be a bit tight but that would be a much better option.
I had thought of that, but mine has a giant glob of solder covering the screw. I needed a rubber change and wax anyway 
1 week later
Quoted from dmgambone:How can I tell if the backglass on my Black Knight is an original or a reproduction? Do the reproductions have any indicators/differences on them? The backglass on mine is in near perfect condition, which I find unusual for an almost 40 year old pinball machine.
Given that it is in such great shape, should I do anything to help preserve it or leave it alone? What I've read is that many people feel that if it's in good shape and not flaking, don't mess with it.
If it is in great shape, convert to LEDs and be done with it as long as it is in a space without great temperature fluctuation. If you want to use incandescents, google "triple thick pinball backglass" to find out how to seal it.
Quoted from northvibe:There are four screws. One on each side (machine philips) and two between those red posts at the back. Once those are free, look underneath, there are harnesses you have to unhook. If you want to really get it out of the way.
Mine had 5 screws. The fifth is in a deep hole along the top right rail.
2 weeks later
Quoted from Travish:Yes I use the round "drop" circular Mylar on the magnets. Works great.
Can you post a link where to buy? Thanks!
Quoted from topkat:Is there a site that sells the star posts? I scoured marcos and they dont seem to be the same as what was there originally?
Looks like pinball resource has something very similar. Sometimes he has parts that aren't shown on the website when you call in.
How does one light the special at the u turn? I don't recall lighting this, but maybe because all my settings award extra balls.
Quoted from frunch:Each time you complete a bank of targets, you get an arrow lit next to the bank. To get EB, you have to complete all three arrows for both of the top 2 banks (6 arrows total), or the bottom 2 banks, or all 4 banks (depending on eb difficulty setting).
I get that is how you light EB, but how do you light the special?
2 weeks later
Quoted from epeabs:Is that the White Knight?
His name is Boss, and he likes pinball.
2 weeks later
Quoted from BrewersArcade:Well with the new Black Knight just announced by Stern...will it increase or decrease the value of this classic?
I would think it would peak the interest of people not familiar with BK or BK2K or entice some to collect the whole trilogy (depending how cool the new one is or reminiscent of the 2 prequels).
With almost 14,000 BKs produced they are still a pretty easy game to find. Therefore demand may increase slightly, but supply is fairly high.
7 months later
Hi guys! Having an issue with my Ball Release solenoid. Looking for some help here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/black-knight-trouble-with-solenoid-01#post-5319693
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Westjordan, UT
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