What size pins are used in the 24 pin molex connector from the playfield? I need to order some. Hack picture included. ThanksDSCN1743.jpg

Try this: Put the posts in Windex, and tie the container to your vibrating tumbler for about three days. The rubber falls off, and they are clean. I'm not anal enough to look for small scrapes, etc. from them hitting each other, but they do come out clean. Any residual rubber will wipe off while you rinse and dry.

Thomas’s
I searched for an answer to that question several years ago, and as Steve-o suggested, it was to hold the wiring harness in place. Gottlieb would use scrap pieces of wire to tie and hold up the harness. (I think this was covered in RGP group.)

Drove me nuts trying to figure out where the wire was supposed to go until I learned that fact.

I don’t have the schematic in front of me, but I think there’s a relay in the circuit that does the on/off. From what you describe sounds like the relay has gone bad or the contacts in the relay have gone bad.

I think the relay is an “ice cube” type, and is located in the back box.

Coin guy- see if changing function 39 does anything. (Background sound)

Did you clean the switches at the flipper coils- do all four, it won’t hurt.

Sometimes new switches have a thin oil coating from the manufacturing process, which is why I suggested cleaning the switches at the flipper coils.

That’s the way it works on mine.

Justler - you may have just inadvertently helped SilverUnicorn (The post just prior to yours) with his research.

Both of you need to buy a lottery ticket!

Nate - that sounds correct to me - at least that’s the way mine works.

It sounds as if your second lock switch is intermittent. Check to see if it needs an adjustment.

Going by memory, there was a retrograde kit Wms had to upgrade from leaf to micro switches. If you find the bulletin, it may have the part numbers you need for the switches.

Sounds like a trough switch is staying closed since the issue doesn’t show up in switch test. Lift the hood and see if one of the trough playfield wires is too close to the playfield and getting hung up.

The caps on the power board look original - check the ESR or just replace them - they're about 40 years old. Same with the sound board.

Remove the battery holder - that corrosion will continue to grow, and you need to see what the underside looks like. Install NVRAM.

Break apart the driver board and the MPU - consider replacing both sides of the 40 pin connector. At a minimum look for a lack of tension or stretched out female pins, and tarnished/burned male pins. The data lines bounce back and forth between the two boards, and this is a known problem area, especially if they are original.

Have a look at Pinwiki - some good info there.

It’s a coiled spring. The outside end of the spring goes between the two tall posts, and the inner (long) piece goes between the short posts and over to the place where the coin hits the wire.

Here’s a few pics.

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