Include me in.

Just picked up a project BK. A bit of a nail and paid a bit too much.
Me and many others

There is a picture of it on the website but it isn't showing as one of the options available to add to the cart.

OK thanks.

I have fired them an e-mail on availability and will post their reply.

Picked up a bit of a shed of a BK that needs pf, cab and board work.

Has anyone ever created a decal for the area around the pop bumper on the upper pf?

I am undecided whether to re-paint or do the hard top pf replacement. Anyone done this?

Andy

Finally got my BK project booting into attract mode.

The problem I have is that it will immediately boot into attract mode with the coin door open (you don't have to flick the on/off switch multiple times it does it on the first try) but will only boot into audit mode with the coin door closed.

I have replaced all the ROM sockets and the 40 pin interconnector. The coin door interlock switch is present and working. I have a remote battery pack with new batteries, D17 tests good and I have 4.45v at pin 22 of the 5101.

What am I missing?

Yes

If I pull the diagnostisc connector (IJ4?) from the CPU the game boots every time. Might have a probe at IC5 to see what it is doing.

I don't have balls in the pin but I am not trying to start a game. I am just trying to get it to boot into attract mode with the coin door closed.
It should do this whether there are balls in or not - but it isn't

Dunno but will check.

Ok. Everything took a step backwards. Tried replacing the 5101 as it was already socketed but now the CPU locks up with a "0" displayed and both LEDs lit on the CPU and the machine repeating the same phrase over and over. Put the original 5101 back in but still the same problem.

Made some progress back to the original problem Just reseated the ROMS and the pin will once again boot into attract mode with coin door open but only into audit mode with it closed.

The game does remember audit adjustments between power cycles whether coin door open or closed.

Sockets have been replaced but the legs of the ROMs do look a bit grubby.

I usually replace ROMS on project games as a matter of course but these seemed to be OK.

I'll give the legs a clean but is this likely to be the cause of my problem?

OK. I will order new ROMs so I should know one way or another when I get them fitted.

In the mean time could someone let me know where the red and white ground wire from the magnet relays connects in the back box. Mine is bundled with the wires that go to the black connector in the picture but is then left hanging. The schematic just shows a ground connection.

Thanks.

DSCN2723A (resized).jpg

DSCN2724A (resized).jpg

That's great, thanks

I haven't read the whole thread but have you replaced the diode on the coil? Is it the right way round?

That upper playfield looks to be in pretty good condition

Just finished hard top intallation and cab decals.

20190602_124821 (resized).jpg

20190602_124851 (resized).jpg

The installation went pretty well. I didn't clearcoat the pf after sanding. Didn't see the point if its going to have a 3mm thick plastic layer on top.

The alignment wasn't perfect. I had to paint black around some of the inserts otherwise the sanded pf would have been visible. Some of the screw holes didn't line up very well either but neither of these were major issues.

In answer to the question "Why decals?" it's because I f*cked the stencils up. Despite my best prepping the stencils kept lifting the paint when removed. I think it was too cold in the garage and wasn't aware this could be an issue. About £200 down the Swanee Decals are much easier to apply and IMO look just as good.

I have to admit at being slightly disappointed that the hardtop is clearly a scan. The clarity of the text and artwork is not so sharp.

20190219_135120 (resized).jpg

Dunno. Maybe I'm just being a bit anal.
20190613_114115 (resized).jpg20190613_114143 (resized).jpg

In fairness it looks a lot worse in the close up pictures.

This wasnt something I considered when installing the hardtop but it is definitely an issue. Occasionally a slow ball does get stuck behind the lip at the bottom of the ramp.

I will have to shim it 0.030" or 0.8mm as we like to call it here in the 21st century

Or at least mention it in the documentation.

I've ordered some 0.03" vinyl to cut to size. It was the most convenient material to get next day in the correct thickness but I don't know if it will be hard enough to resist being squashed when the ramp screws are tightened. I will see how that goes.

I am thinking of getting some stainless sheet and cutting it to the profile of the ramp cut-out in the playfield. It might look quite good with the stainless ramps. Or not.

You might want to give the contact cleaner a miss.

No. 3 on Tim Arnold's "Things not to do to a Pinball" list

3 - SPRAY CONTACT CLEANER IS EVIL!

I don't care what your uncle told you! I don't care that the label says "Safe - Leaves No Residue"! They are false! This is a lazy fools fix! It's a chemical solution to a mechanical problem! 95% of the dirt can be removed by wiping with a soft cloth! This is all you should do to a digital game's gold plated heads! Electro-mechanical games and all flipper switches are made of silver or a hard alloy. These should be filed flat and smooth! While filing, if the head is loose, replace the whole blade! After both contacts are cleaned and/or filed, adjust for self cleaning by having the two overwipe on contact! This lack of overwiping is why the contacts got dirty in the first place! A properly adjusted contact should NEVER get dirty! Also, bakelite spacers dry out, leaving loose switch stacks! Tighten both screws before adjusting.

I think someone set fire to their pinball machine back in the day when the vapour from the contact cleaner ignited in the cab.

I think the detached green wire is soldered to the same spot as the green wire that is still attached.

I like the alternative artwork for the cab. Great work!

Will you be leaving the area for the legs and side rail white? I would suggest you make it all black and trim accordingly.

Can someone let me know what supports the end of this plastic between the ramps. Some sort of standoff I guess that must have been there when I stripped the pin down.....

Thanks.

20191209_125314 (resized).jpg

I over tightened mine and broke the end which made me think there would be some sort of support for it.

My BK displays have decided to stop working. I tried a newly repaired CPU in the pin that has new ROMs and ROM sockets and passes all the tests with Marcos test ROM. (including ROM socket test)
I left the pin on for several hours with no problems initially.
The following day no displays. I have good 100V, -100V, 5V and 3.8V blanking to the master display board and have the orange glow in all the displays.
Although the machine boots into attract mode and I can add credits and start a game, I have an error code 4 on the CPU LED. This has changed from a 6 earlier today. These both relate to ROM issues. I am thinking this is unrelated to displays but can't understand how the pin is booting and playing.

I swapped the CPU out before I could fix this, due to the multiple issues, but I was leaning towards the 74154 chip which was receiving pulsing input signals (logic probe) but output was fixed (can't remember if high or low).