Eapbs,
Is your play field original? It looks quite good in the pics. Mine needs some serious TLC. Trying to decide between learning touch ups or getting a hard top overlay.

Your "before" pictures look way better than mine. Comparing the "after" in your previous post, the only thing I could notice was the right magna save "when lit" was a little off. If and when I try airbrushing, if mine comes out that well, I will be ecstatic. For right now, I am happy with it as a working machine in line for some love after a few of my other projects. Too bad you are not closer, I would love to learn a few airbrushing skills when the time comes.

Here are a few pics of what I have to conquer. The dirt and swirl is consistent all over the playfield and there are several of these gouges.

0076093B-1051-4F8E-81B4-45D64CEC23ED (resized).jpeg

19ADA6EE-3130-4039-ADB5-C1F33CEC4581 (resized).jpeg

D1D84E0E-C39D-4645-B947-EEEDDDDBA756 (resized).jpeg

Fuse blown - Rectifier problem or something else?

Turned on my BK the other day and could not get a game started. Was working just fine previously. Attract mode was still working, but no ball ejected. Turns out the F2 fuse blew. Have been going down the troubleshooting route, but I have run out of fuses. Found a few posts mentioning using circuit breakers temporarily, so I have a few sizes in the mail.

I can't pin down exactly when the fuse blows, and it isn't an obvious blow either. No flash of light, no break in the inside wire, I can only tell it is blown by pulling and using the DMM. Whatever is causing it, I am assuming it is not a huge short that draws a considerable amount of voltage.

One thing I did was take a look at the bridge rectifiers. From what I am reading, the left rectifier should be at 28vdc and the right rectifier should be at 18vdc. When I measure, I am showing the left rectifier at 43vdc and the right at 16.6vdc. Not surprisingly, I get the same 43vdc at the fuse lug as well. Would the higher voltage (43 instead of 28) cause the fuse to blow or am I better off looking elsewhere?

If I need to replace them, does anyone know the part numbers? I can find the rectifiers listed in the manual, but not seeing actual part numbers.

Thanks!

The power supply caps were replaced less than a year ago. They are good.

What do you mean about checking the bridge diodes?

@vec-tor

The power supply seems OK. Not exact, but I assume within 1980's tolerance.

D1 = 13.8 one side and 26.5 on the other

For IC 1
11 & 12 = 26.6
10 = 6.5
2 = 5
3 = 4.8
4 = 4.8

@schwaggs
I found some other posts that mention this a while ago. When I turn the game on and check with the probe, the blanking circuit is low for maybe a second or so, then there is a very fast blip to high, then it goes low again. I have a bunch more fuses and a circuit breaker coming tomorrow. I can check inserting a fuse with the game running later.

I am following up on my post. After getting the circuit breaker and hooking it up to the fuse position, when I turned on the game the lower right coil energized and locked on. I tested the board for for voltage and did a logic probe on the solenoid IC, resisters and both transistors. Moving on to the playfield I replaced the diode, soldered the wire and confirmed the grey/orange wire was showing continuity to the back box and was getting ground. Long story short, I failed to recognize that low signal on the logic probe is not the same a no signal. The center post on the driver transistor for coil 3 was showing low signal, where the other transistors were showing no signal. Replacing the transistor has the game working 100%.

Thank you for your help. For anyone with similar issues in the future, when the research tells you to test the pre driver transistor and the driver transistor, be sure to check it at least twice and take the time to understand what your data tells you. Almost every post I read said that a transistor was the most likely culprit, but I thought I had ruled that out.