Greensboro, NC
Pinball resource did have some.
(Topic ID: 54503)
Linked Games
Black Knight
Williams, 1980-
Black Knight Limited Edition
Williams, 1981
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1 week later
Thought I would post this here. My CPR Silver Knight #14. New plastics. All new boards, sound, speech, power supply, combo MPU. All new connectors in back box (I hate insulation displacement connectors). New displays. Mayfair back glass. Every coil replaced. New flipper mechanisms. All new maple rails. It's like a new 36 year old machine.
2 months later
Yes there is a piece of metal you can put between the posts and the plate that keeps the ball from hitting. I made one out of a piece of stainless kick plate that goes on the bottom of a door. You could just use any thin metal and trim the same shape as the plastic. It also helps the ball from popping out when hit hard and there are no other balls in the trough. I can post a picture tonight if you need. Better than that, I will make you one if you want.
Quoted from jhamm72:Travish,
Thank you so much for your offer. I would love for your to fabricate me one since you already have the template. Just let me know the cost.
No cost just pm me.
There is a bulb behind the u-turn on the left but the rail blocks all the light. I think it would be hard to light that area because the ball would hit the bulb or get in the way. I guess you could use thin lexan and install another bulb socket and make it work with one of the "stalk" led's somehow.
2 months later
Quoted from jhamm72:Hello BK members. For the past several months I have been slowly restoring my first BK. I just had a stuck t nut on one of the back box bolts. I tried to place screws around it to grab it, but it did not work. I ended up using a dremel to cut off the head of the bolt.
Here are my questions. I went to Home Depot and picked up another t nut and bolt. My concern is getting another t nut installed correctly and that this new bolt is actually a grade 8 (which will obviously make cutting it harder if this happens again). Would it be ok to use a flat washer, lock washer and nut instead of the t nut? Please let me know if this substitution is not ideal. I surely do not want to cause any further problems down the road. Up until this point this restoration has been very smooth.
Thanks in advance for any advise
Jennifer
Sure. The main reason t nuts are used is because many times it is hard to get behind to hold/tighten a nut. If you have a new t nut just use that. You can place the nut in the hole and use a bolt and washer and it will pull the nut into place when you tighten the bolt. I wouldn't worry about it happening again. No telling how long it has been since it was removed last time.
3 months later
Quoted from muzikman:What is the proper kind of pin or post that connects the metal guide to the playfield at the top left horseshoe (u-turn)? Mine is missing and the ball gets stuck sometimes since the guide does not stay centered.
I found in this thread where a finishing nail was the apparent answer. Let me know if anyone has a better solution or if that works well for you all. Thanks!
It's a nail. My nail kept falling out so I just squeezed/tweaked the rail and just left the nail out and it holds in place just fine. You could glue the nail in and that would probably be good also.
3 months later
Quoted from Antennaejim:You should only need 5v D.C. To power those leds.
Yes the new displays don't need the high voltage.
For what it's worth. I have the same displays and mpu combo board in my black knight and they work great.
1 week later
1 month later
1 week later
Hmm the marks from the head of the original screw on the bracket looks like a #6 head size also. Whether it fits or not the proper size should be a 6. Eight would be to big and a four would be to small. Drill the hole just a bit bigger in the bracket.
3 weeks later
Quoted from Kronlar:Anyone have a spare set up of new cpr plastics they would sell?
Looks like ministry of pinball may have a set.
2 months later
Quoted from zacaj:Mine didn't either. I've forgotten the name but some nice person in this thread made me one a while ago..
EDIT: It was travish. Thanks Travish!
I have several more all ready to go if you need one. Pm an address and I will stick it in an envelope. Best part is they are free.
1 week later
Quoted from dcannan:What are the differences between the BK and the BK ltd?
Nothing really. Decal on the apron and micro switches in the troughs.
Quoted from dcannan:I'm new to pin side. Does posting here make me a member of the BK club? If not how do I join? And what does it mean to be members only? obviously I can post here.
Yes you can post. Members only is something got started on a thread a long time ago. Kind of a joke. Do you have a BK?
That is a nice one. Better than most original playfields. You will get it figured out. There are a bunch of smart people here. Some with their heads and some with their butts. 
If you look at the bottom right of all your posts you will see a set of quotation marks. Click on that and you will see how to use the quote feature. You can delete parts of the quote as long as you keep the front and rear part. It's frowned on here to alter a quote besides shortening it. Even if is obviously in jest.
1 month later
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1 month later
Quoted from northvibe:One of my connectors, melted to the pin on the board when I removed it. Are these .156 idc ?
https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1601
Yes unfortunately
3 weeks later
Quoted from dzorbas:Those 44/47 holders in the pops are crap.
You can put brand new original style 44 sockets in and they are still crap.
1 week later
Quoted from epeabs:Is the SA-3-23 850-DC still available? I only saw an SG version.
[quoted image][quoted image]
It's really the same. Only difference is the direction/end that sleeve is inserted and if it has a diode. Just get the sg and match up the mounting and wire attachments.
1 week later
Nice playfield, crappy glass. A little work and a new glass and you will have a really nice machine. I would check over everything real good and rebuild the flippers. Go ahead and have the 40 pin replaced. It's no fun chasing ghosts if you start having a issue.
You didn't include a picture of the boards. What about the battery holder? Has it been moved off the board?
Oh, be sure to fuse the bridges in the back box.
Since your new here did you check out vids guide on system 3-7? You should read up on that too.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-bulletproofing-williams-system-6
Quoted from SpaceAce:I am on a trip for work right now and will be starting when I get home. When you say glass, do you mean backgkass, or playfield glass? I will be working getting a new backglass before the playfield as I can look I can live with the scratches (for a while).
I was going to post pix of the boards once I started work (before and after). I spent about an hour and took a couple hundred photos of the various elements of the game (something I do before every referb). It's proven to be a life saver. The flippers look to be in great shape. They are smooth and shiny.
The batteries are still part of the board. But I have been replacing them every few years knowing that was a dangerous point for these machines. I will be moving them off the board, or putting in a coin cell. I just don't get how a 3v coin cell works better than 4.5v (from the 3 AA batteries). But folks say it lasts longer.
The fuses are definitely part of the plan. No fun in replacing the transformer, so yeah, the fuses are a must.
Yeah, Vids guide is how I found this site. I spent many hours reading through that one. I sort of hope he gets around to doing the sound module tutorial. He said that he would be doing one, but that was like 6 years ago. That's the one part of the game that I know will be in need of repair once I finish the power supply. Although I guess it's possible that the problem is in the headers, but not holding my breath.Hey, Thanks for the offer. Let me get the first phase done so I can see where it lives. Then I will be quite happy to some help.
I meant backglass. Playfield glass is $45. A new backglass is $350 but they sure are nice.
1 week later
Quoted from northvibe:Has anyone installed a Inkochnito board? Looking to just verify wiring
[quoted image]
http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/
You can pm him too.
I wouldn't use a wire wheel. Use really fine (like 1000 grit) sandpaper longwise. Just like you do for regraining the rails. Since it's stainless you don't need to do anything except wipe them down to make sure all the residue from sanding is cleaned. I make custom stainless rails and guides with my shear and break and you can't tell them from factory.
Edit: the side rail is stainless but the "loop thing" appears to be anodized/plated steel.
Quoted from zacaj:I think it's technically a different size for some reason. Not sure a normal one will fit.
Yes they are 15/16ths so little smaller than a "normal" ball. Also space, your missing your tilt bob.
1 week later
Quoted from SpaceAce:Would someone be willing to make a high resolution scan of their upper left plastic? This is the one that looks sort of like Florida.
If so, please lay a ruler next to it so I can get proper scale. I am going to CAD this thing. I do not want to purchase a whole set of plastics, just for one piece.
I have seen a few videos on Youtube about how to make your own plastics, but they all use printed decals which I suspect are not as rich in color. I am looking at what it would take to actually do a stamp, or pseudo silk screen. I am still playing with it, but I do need a form to play with. My machine came without this one. I do need to make a metal shield though. I am pretty sure that one of these days the trough is going to kick a ball out and that glass is going to shatter if I don't get something in there to redirect it.
Pm me a address and I will send you one (it goes under the plastic 
)I probably have that plastic too.
IMG_4627 (resized).JPG
Quoted from SpaceAce:I got up to a massive 270K tonight. The game eventually was over and then I looked up to see the default 2,500,000 flashing in between my high score.
I have noticed that a lot of people are nudging the machine. Is this an acceptable part of play? I mean I know that there's electronics at play to keep people from getting carried away, but is nudging a thing?
Yes nudging is part of the game. That's why the tilt bob has a sliding adjustment to make it easier or harder to tilt. Remember you are missing a part of the mechanism though. Marco has the part you are missing and it's not expensive.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/20-6502-A
Since you say you suck I shouldn't post this but take it with a grain of salt because I always have my games set on 5 balls. Yes the glass was on.
IMG_4633 (resized).JPG
Quoted from frunch:The rottendog mpu doesn't seem to get along well with Black Knight for some reason. I've read numerous threads where folks were having trouble using that mpu with bk, though the board seems to work ok for other compatible system 3-7 games.
Do you have the original mpu and driver boards? May be worth fixing them up instead...
I'm pretty sure the 327-1's have been working but the 327-2's definitely have the issue.
1 week later
Quoted from Mathazar:Aha!! Can't believe I didn't see that before....the yellow wire is indeed there, and it's become disconnected from the good switch. I just need to re-solder that yellow wire to the tab on the good switch that has the two green wires then? Can't thank you enough....[quoted image]
I love a happy ending. Oh wait, wrong thread....
I took off the rubber caps and used polished stainless acorn nuts.
Rubbers are different. I personally like white. They have more bounce than black and it seems like black make a bigger mess. I guess the only good thing to me about black would be you couldn't see how dirty they are.
Those nuts are 6-32
3 weeks later
1 month later
Quoted from northvibe:What screw or post goes here? I took pics of tear down, however I don’t see it in mine. I think it is supposed to hold this guide, and I’m missing it.
Thanks!
[quoted image][quoted image]
It has a nail
Quoted from frunch:Where are you guys getting those trough protectors for the lock trough on the upper playfield?
Those are cliffy's. He has a set for the whole machine including the shooter trough.
Quoted from dzorbas:If you desolder the ground braid, when you put the socket back in, just put the braid underneath the tab, no need to resolder. It's not going anywhere and the contact with the socket should be more than sufficient.
A lot of times the solder will stay stuck to the tab but not the screw since the screw did not get hot enough for it to stick. As long as you can get your little socket on the screw head you won't even need to desolder it at all.
1 month later
Quoted from northvibe:Does anyone put Mylar on the magnasave circles? I’m potentially putting this on route and want to keep the playfield decent. The plan was to put a hardtop on years from now but was in no rush... so I’d like to keep it as nice as I can for now. Was worried about the balls grinding and wearing the paint at the magnets
Yes I use the round "drop" circular Mylar on the magnets. Works great.
I think this is the one I used. I'm sure other places have then too.
39 cents each.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=66-msc
1 month later
The only replacements I know of right now are the "nw7" boards. The reviews are good and include the sound and speech boards.
One interesting thing, you can change the sounds and enable "jukebox function". No other boards for 3-7 I know of let you change the sound/music files.
A little pricy but considering they replace everything but the power supply might be ok. One thread says they work in Black Knight fine. Here's the search and one thread includes a link.
Here us the manual in English.
https://www.pinball-dreams.com/images/NW7-Documentation-EN.pdf
Quoted from topkat:Is there a link for repro metal ramps? I have seen the mod ones with lights, but just the regular old metal, but shiny new metal, is what I am looking for
thanks
The ramps are stainless. Unless your original ramps are bent or destroyed take fine grit wet sandpaper and regrain them by sanding longwise. They will be just like new.
3 months later
2 weeks later
Quoted from cshelden:What is your tried and true method for cleaning up the red posts. I am about to repopulate my pf after a hard top install. All metal has been polished bright and looks amazing. Plastics are clean and look great. Sadly the posts are still dull after much cleaning. What are the options? Replace? If so with what model # from who? I've done some searches but have yet to find anything definitive.
Replace. Marco has them. You could toss them in the dishwasher and see how they come out too.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/C-951-7
IMG_5337 (resized).JPG
1 week later
Mathazar
No the sockets are regular sockets. I got new ones from marco when I redid mine.
Frunch
Did you find your filler plate? I don't have any "W" ones but I got a couple "M" ones.
The one above the "dollar" plate is brand new and the exact same size as the dollar plate and screen printed. The other is just a tad smaller? And the logo is actually cut into the plate just a little and paint filled. Click on the picture and I think you can see. The finish is the same the flash just got it.
6 months later
11 months later
Quoted from Surf_Champ:Hi,
I am restoring a BK and currently have the lower playfield in a rotisserie and the upper PF off on another bench. Question: Three of the four drop target bank frames seem to lean back about a degree or two. It is noticeable with the PF turned upside down. Did these get bent over the years or is that the design? Should the drop targets be perpendicular to the PF? Is it worth the time now to bend the frames?
Mines not leaning. Instead of trying to bend the frames maybe stick a washer under the front to level it out?
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