(Topic ID: 54503)

Black Knight Club...Members Only!

By mof

10 years ago


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  • 3,200 posts
  • 303 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 45 minutes ago by jibmums
  • Topic is favorited by 161 Pinsiders

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Awesome! Black Knight Pinball 1980 machine by Williams. Brand New Playfield!  eBay (resized).jpeg
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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider TicTacSeth.
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#737 6 years ago

I'm officially in! This game looks super fun, even though mine is a fixer. The guy bought it 20 years ago and eventually stopped paying for maintenance. He didn't know how to take the backglass off so I know the balls weren't changed in that time. The upper playfield is especially torn up.

Batteries are super corroded, pulled those out instantly and just bought a nvram. Anyone want to airbrush up my playfield? Haha. I'll probably clean as best I can and wax a few layers ... maybe with Mylar as I don't know when/if I will go for a CPR. I'd be interested in thoughts on that.

Quick question, my plastics that should be next to the flippers are gone, but what's in the metal guides are the wrong screws even if I can fin/buy those plastics. What type of screw/post will I need?

I'm looking forward to playing this one with my kids!

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#741 6 years ago
Quoted from Travish:

Those plastics are from CPR. Here is what they look like.

Interesting, yeah, those are the ones I saw. I was watching some video on YouTube and saw others with steel, good to know I'm not missing pieces I guess haha!

That upper playfield is supper rough and bumpy ... I gotta think about what to do about that. Gotta go with Mylar to help smooth it out right? Or maybe I find a place to just do the work on the upper ...

#748 6 years ago
Quoted from Kronlar:

I will be doing a restore on my BK with new cpr playfield set later this summer or fall after I finish a Funhouse.
I have the original play field plus a spare populated playfield set. Might be able to get you a better upper from one of my two. Just can't remember what shape they are in and it's folded up for now...

That would be awesome! Especially if I can start from a better position that this one, there are some more detailed sections that will be tough to manage, and in general it is just rough.

#749 6 years ago

Ok, need some insight from you guys. After cleaning I'm putting back the wires in the head but it looks like I might be missing a few? I don't see any hanging anywhere, and I didn't take anything out. (At least I think I didn't?) I also see a lot going on in the bottom right of the head that I don't see in other pictures in this thread. Any insight to what I might be missing?

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#751 6 years ago
Quoted from gutz:

You're missing the gi connectors because it looks like someone modified the stock setup by running the gi circuits through the fuse bank on the lower right. Not a bad idea to fuse each string (instead of a single 20a protecting them all) but with this modification you bypass the gi relay! You won't have the gi flashing effect during multiball start.

Hmm, that goes in the "not cool" column to me! Is there a way to get the mod to run back through the relay?

Also, good to know I have a separate booting issue. This happened at the guys house I bought it from, and is happening now. When I flip it on, the inside digit flickers 0, with the same happening to the scoreboard (a single 0 digit). Basically not booting. I read a bunch earlier and tried googling, but not seeing that same issue. Thoughts?

#752 6 years ago

Oh, there's also a loud humming sound from the speakers ...

#754 6 years ago
Quoted from gutz:

I posted a pic in a different thread: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/re-pinning-psb-system-7#post-3825246
The two larger yellow wires (that are nutted in the pic) go to the 2 position connector. The four wires going into and the four wires coming out of the fuse bank go in the 9 position connector.
Edit: I zoomed in on the pic and it looks like a relay was mounted a la system 6 style! Does the gi flash when you start multiball? If it's working, it wouldn't be horrible to leave it alone.

I wish I could tell, I can't get the game to boot, it just flickers a "0" digit inside on the battery board, and on the scoreboard when I turn it on with a loud humming sound. The 0 digit happened when I bought it, and the reason I got a deal (I hope), I'm not sure if it had the humming sound though.

#756 6 years ago
Quoted from frunch:

Have you checked for correct voltages at the power supply board and CPU boards? Game won't boot with missing/incorrect voltages.

I'll try to check tonight, I'm still learning so I might have questions on how to do that, but will google first to not bog down the chat.

#758 6 years ago
Quoted from frunch:

If you need help, you can always start another thread in the solid state tech forum (or PM me, I'd be happy to help watch you thru it)

Awesome, thanks Frunch. I caught a few fuses that were quite a bit different than they should be. Not that it will fix things, but I'm interested to at least see if a few more things get going. I also found someone that is more experienced and bulletproofing the boards, so might do that as well. Not sure yet, I might turn back to my Black Pyramid and finish that up so I can free up some space (and cash) to go at Black Knight.

1 month later
#781 6 years ago
Quoted from gutz:

I am in the market for a unpopulated used lower playfield that is restorable, and possibly an upper. My lower playfield is too far gone, but my upper might be salvageable.

That's funny because my lower is great and my upper is toast!

I might get the plastic playfield protector from Germany to make the surface smooth for the time being.

#782 6 years ago
Quoted from hawknole:

I have my old playfields, not sure if we PM'd before or not, "decent" is a relative term. My old ones would need quite a bit of work, hence the CPR swap.

Hey Hawk, can get get a look at the upper you have too?

2 months later
#812 6 years ago
Quoted from frunch:

Any time, man. If you need pics, advice, etc let me know. I think you've got the right idea giving the boards to someone experienced who can bulletproof them for you. These old boards are still perfectly good, they often just need some attention/refreshing (especially the 40-pin connectors, certain chip sockets, etc)... Let us know how you fare!
Good luck!

Ok, I’m back on this. Black Pyramid was sold and the boards are back from being refurbished, bulletproofed and a NVRAM installed. Unfortunately when I fired it up, the pop bumper solonoid burned up! Aside from that, there are still lots of issues. I went through the switch test, and I fixed them one by one. Nothing new pops up, but only the top left drop targets reset, the rest don’t pop back up, the magnets don’t work, the middle ball lock won’t pop out the ball, the ball trough won’t pop the ball to the switch 17-19 area, and the ball doesn’t pop into the shooter lane.

So big stuff still not working, and I need a new digital tester. What does work are the rollover switches, the spinner and middle ramp gate, lights, scoreboards and the top left drops.

The question is, where do start for the next stage of fixing?

#817 6 years ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

When the pop bumper solenoid burned, it probably blew the solenoid fuse which is why your other solenoids are not working. I would start by figuring out whats going on with the pop bumper. Look at the pop switches and make sure they adjusted correctly.

Interesting, I hope that’s it! I went through all of the fuses though. Which fuse runs the solonoid s?

Also, I just completely disconnected the pop bumper for now. Would that take out the other solonoid?

#828 6 years ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

The Solenoid fuse is the 2.5 amp slow blow on the power supply board. The bottom fuse in the row of 4 on the left of the board.
When you disconnected the pop bumper, how did you do that? Did you remove the wires from the solenoid? If so, there was likely one terminal that had 2 wires on it, did you keep those 2 wires connected to each other? The power supply for the solenoids daisy chains from one solenoid to the other. If you break the chain by not keeping the 2 wires together, the down stream coils will not work.
Techincally to disconnect the pop coil, all you need to do is remove one of the wires. Removing the smaller, single wire is the easiest way to do it.

You know, i did not keep those 2 wires connected. I’ll try that!

Edit: just connected those two wires. I’m back in action! All solonoids and drop targets are firing! Thanks man! Now, the sound is the last Thing that i need to figure out, still not on?

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