Quoted from jibmums:

Got a switch problem with my BK. Just got the head attached and wired up this week for the first time since I got it. Sound, lamp, and solenoid tests are all fine. NONE of the playfield switches register, although ALL other switches - plumb bob tilt, ball roll tilt, left & right coin, credit button, high score reset, flipper button - all work just fine. I know it must be something simple that I'm overlooking. Ideas?

Quoted from jibmums:

That was my first thought as well, even though I was VERY careful and methodical during assembly. To eliminate any doubt, I just pulled the connectors and re-connected them again. Nope, same problem - no playfield switches work, but all other switches work.
However - here's something interesting - when I press it down, the pop bumper switch doesn't register in switch test mode, but it DOES trigger the bumper itself. What the heck is going on??

Quoted from jibmums:

Yep, slings fire also but don't register in switch test. None of the fuses have anything to do with these switches, correct?

Quoted from jibmums:

Thanks guys! I got it, thanks to Schwaggs' guess. I completely missed the connectors with the green and white wires. The backbox end was hiding behind the big blue capacitor, and the bottom end behind the transformer. I knew it was something simple that I just must have missed.....boy do I feel dumb!

Quoted from StratDoc:

One other question. When I bought my restoration Black Knight it came with an extra partially populated playfield. The playlfield and plastics are in decent shape, some wear but no planking. I am not an expert but it looks like it could be candidate for a full resotoration. Is there a market for this? If so, what would you estimate the price range to be?

Quoted from StratDoc:

Here are some pictures of the playfield and plastics.

Quoted from SilverballSleuth:

Everyone, I need a favor. Just bought a Black Knight. Took off the back box to get it home.
Can't find the red white grounding lead. I have looked for hours. It is driving me insane. Where does this cable come from? Where does it split off into a single cable?
Thank you for your help. Pictures would also be helpful.
Cheers,
Eric
UPDATE: made the decision to plug the game in without the red/white grounding lead. Magnets do not work, but they did yesterday.

Quoted from TicTacSeth:

Interesting, I hope that’s it! I went through all of the fuses though. Which fuse runs the solonoid s?
Also, I just completely disconnected the pop bumper for now. Would that take out the other solonoid?

Quoted from Yelobird:

Since I will be ordering parts, any other "yeah I would do that also" type parts? I think I have a new voltage regulator somewhere in my box o crap. Since I have all new boards including displays would it be reasonable to just get a new power board? I only ask this because this game is at a relatives house now and the thought of driving there every other week to trouble shoot a new part is a last resort I am hoping..

Quoted from mjvancam:

Hi guys, thanks for the suggestions. (sorry for the late response - likely would have been best to ask my question after the holidays when I had more time ),
I'm quite a novice here, so I just want to make sure I'm following frunch's suggestion properly. I assume when you say "disconnect the switch columns and row connectors on the driver board at connectors 2J2 and 2J3", you mean the connections as per the 2 images below? I believe that's 2J2 at the top and 2J3 underneath? I think so, but want to check.
To verify the board is working properly, I would run a jumper from, say column 5 (the GRN-BLK) to any of the row connectors, say row 3 (WHT-ORN). This would imitate the triggering of the top-left 3 bank upper target if I am reading the switch matrix properly. How do I verify that the switches respond? Do I need the pin on? Sorry for the stupid questions...
To answer Schwaggs' query, yes, all was working until I replaced the original piece of hardware. I had the machine plugged in, but not turned on (next time, unplug to be safe), so hope that isn't it.
Lastly, I've checked all the diodes as well, and they seem fine.
Thanks again!

Quoted from dalispictures:

Anyone have any reset issues with your BK? I have been trying to trouble shoot this problem. Both flippers energized reset it. Rottendog 327 X - pin power supply. Any help would be great appreciated!

Quoted from mjvancam:

I looked up IC18 and it appears that it's chip 6821. Is it a simple replace? I suppose it's best to get the appropriate tool, ground myself AND to unplug the machine to replace (remembering a little of my old computer chip replacement knowledge)?
Thanks all.

Quoted from mjvancam:

The clouds have lifted! Schwaggs & frunch - thanks a ton! I managed to replace the hex inverter 7406 and voila, she's good as new (or refurbished).
Thanks again - I never would have known what to do once I left the electrical checking behind.

Quoted from jag1:

Schwaggs and I could be neighbors!
Thanks for the tips. I’ve ran the coil tests a few times, but can’t get it to blow the fuse. I’ve done a few visuals, but didn’t see anything “obvious” to me.
When I power the game on, I only hear the click come from the coin door. I have a 2.5 amp slow blow installed.
I talked with Ernie, he said replace the 2.5 amp with a 5 amp and start sniffing! Hoping that will turn the intermittent issue into a hard failure that can then be fixed.

Quoted from zacaj:

No guarantee at all the stops are the same depth. They switched depth and plunger length all the time. My links aren't colliding with the bracket, the stop stops them short of it. I'd love to get a measurement on PBL's replacement bases, but I don't even know where they got their measurements from.

Quoted from nerdygrrl:

OK, I finally got a chance to scope out the schematics and the connector. While this is the "cabinet wiring" and it looks like everything is coming straight from front of the cab, I noticed this on the bottom of page 21 (thanks Schwaggs). It appears there are two GI lines that originate from the upper PF and go into this connector at pins 1and 2. This makes sense given the GI from my upper PF is also cut.
If anyone has the time and could snap a pic of how these two lines run off of the upper PF GI and go to this main cabinet harness I would be super appreciative. I am guessing there has to be some other kind of disconnect in there. That are I am super off base.

Quoted from nerdygrrl:

I broke C15 when trying to get the IC out of my PS, which looks like a 470 pF cap. Does anyone know if I should order the 50V or 100V from GPE? The manual doesn't quite state.
I am so mad, I was so close to having a fully working PS. Yet another GPE order coming up.

Quoted from Spacemanratso09:

Very frustrating..my extra ball up top and lower turnaround switches do not register in a switch test all looks fine
Been playing for a awhile I noticed the extra ball never comes on

Quoted from Troyster42:

So I have been still trying to figure out what is going on with this solenoid circuit. This is continuing from post 1097. So my Drive transistor keeps getting fried and my ball release coil locks on. I have checked and replaced the diode on the coil. I checked the ohms on the coil and I am getting 4. I checked switch 20 that triggers the coil. I’m getting no shorts in the wires and continuity from the switch to the board connectors. I took the mpu and driver board out and hooked up and old pc power supply on them. With a logic probe I took readings on IC1 Leg 9 is hi, 10 is low and 8 is low. I think that’s how this should be. I tested other legs for different solenoids and I am getting the same. I checked different voltages over components and compared them from the solenoid circuit that is having issues to a working one and I am getting matching readings. The only thing I have found different was resistance from the base of Q15 to ground, the solenoid 1 circuit I’m getting 2.1K and all others I’m getting 1.7K. Its not a big difference but I don’t know why, I thought it should be 2.7k unless the reading is coming from the predrive transistor to ground. I also checked the voltage on the predrive transistor Q14 and there is none. Again I think this is how it should be as the circuit should not be switched on at this point. Tonight or tomorrow I’m going to put the boards back in (new transistor) leave all of the solenoid connectors off the board and pull the fuse. Go in to test mode for edge test for switches and see if there is anything going on with switch 20. I also will check to see if pin 10 on IC1 is high or low. If anyone has any ideas let me know at this point I’m not sure what else to do if I get normal readings putting the boards back in.

Quoted from kilmarnock1350:The starburst inserts just don’t look right on this game.
Very disappointed CPR used them.

Quoted from chaskett:

Hey all, I am developing some diagrams for lighting the machine with LEDs.
How are you all lighting the right side (encircled in Blue)? I was thinking of using a bulb with a matrix cord between the two right ramps and 2 4" LED strips under the blue plastics.
The area encircled in Yellow i was considering using double flex head comet lights to light the upper playfield. How are you getting extra light thrown onto the upper playfield in this area?
The pop bumper I was thinking of just throwing an Comet Opmax LED light in so it would hopefully illuminate more of the upper playfield. what's your strategy?
[quoted image]

Quoted from chaskett:

Thanks for the suggestions! Isn't sunlight white tinted blue? Or is that natural White? Also, my lower lock insert is red for some reason.[quoted image]

Quoted from SpaceAce:

Hi all. Having read this thread front to back... I think it's time to add my game to the list. Unless I am missing something, I think I am in the club (being a happy owner of a Black Knight Machine). I got my machine back in 2005(ish). It was located, box top off, legs off, sitting on the floor of someone's basement. It had the wrong back glass on it (Wms. Stellar Wars), and was missing a couple of plastics (top left). They said that they had it for some time, but it wasn't working and they didn't know how to fix it. "May be it's just a fuse" they said (yeah... right). So, I bought it and have had it ever since.

Quoted from Andy_B:

Made some progress back to the original problem Just reseated the ROMS and the pin will once again boot into attract mode with coin door open but only into audit mode with it closed.

The game does remember audit adjustments between power cycles whether coin door open or closed.

Quoted from Andy_B:

Sockets have been replaced but the legs of the ROMs do look a bit grubby.
I usually replace ROMS on project games as a matter of course but these seemed to be OK.
I'll give the legs a clean but is this likely to be the cause of my problem?

Quoted from Andy_B:

OK. I will order new ROMs so I should know one way or another when I get them fitted.
In the mean time could someone let me know where the red and white ground wire from the magnet relays connects in the back box. Mine is bundled with the wires that go to the black connector in the picture but is then left hanging. The schematic just shows a ground connection.
Thanks.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from SpaceAce:

So... I did the fireproofing and the bullet proofing. I added the mosfets, removed the resistors, and jumpered. I pulled the resistors, and jumpered the driverboard. I replaced the 40 pin interconnect, moved the batteries off the board, and reflowed all other connectors. I turned on the machine and saw the 2500 4. I went through the diagnostics (twice ) and then it went into attract. While I am really excited. With that excitement, I now get to work though figuring out all the little things that might be wrong. I am a little perplexed, but moving forward.
- The credits / match display has the first digit (on each number) coming in and out.
- The sound is nearly non existent. And that which is present is rreeeeeaaaalllllyy sssslllllloooooowwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww (and it seems to be stuck on).
- Eventually the machine heats up (or something) and the sound starts to come in. Gritchy at first, and then it comes in nice and smooth (such a great sound).
- I am still working through some bulb replacement to see if I have a ROW issue, or, just a bunch of dead bulbs. I am however interested in how many things I am breaking just trying to change the lights.
I have a lot of things I still need to do. But I want to get the obvious items running. I will be replacing a WHOLE BUNCH of sockets.

Quoted from SpaceAce:

Hey @schwaggs, Actually, it doesn't make any sound at all for between 20-45 minutes (silence), then all at once, it comes in (both voice and sound effects). But it's like little chirps at first. Like... you will get a glimpse of sound here and there. And then when it finally decides to kick in, it's all within about 5 minutes, and then it plays perfectly. I am working recapping and reflowing it tonight. I am not sure if I will get it finished tonight or not (because I really want to play it some more). I found a couple posts about how to troubleshoot it this afternoon, and hopefully between that and your suggestions I will figure out something. I went to Fry's tonight in search of sockets, but I am not paying that much. I will get it from Mouser, or Amazon r something.

Quoted from epeabs:

After adjusting the shooter trough switches I was able to play one actual game. But only one. Now I have my ball lock solenoid repeatedly firing upon startup. I've tried adjusting the lock switches, but it is still doing it. So the lock trough repeatedly fires or it doesn't and the shooter trough fires two balls into lane instead. If that happens the flippers don't work. It also will seem to load a second or third player. I'm perplexed. Sorry if this is confusing, its difficult to explain.

Quoted from epeabs:

Well....Amazing what you find when you start looking at areas closely. I found one of my wires going to the "right" ball eject switch got pinched under the playfield metal "strap". Loosened screws and removed wire, then had to "fix" the "grounded out" wire. Once done I was able to play a game. But realized I need to adjust all my drain switches, spinner switch, etc. since none of them are registering. But the interesting part is that the pop bumper which I rebuilt is not working when hit. But I can activate it by hand, and when I do, the outhole solenoid is firing. Definitely some more work to be done.

Quoted from SpaceAce:

So... I got home and went to work on the machine. I was working on the sound and got all the soldering finished (well finished for now).
I put it back in the machine. I used an alligator jumper wire and clipped onto the bracket that holds the sound board (ground) and touched the connector points. It made the sounds. I went to the MPU connector and tried it there. I had sounds. So, both the connector is good, and the wires are good. Immediately the machine had sound when I turned it on. ??? Really? I played a game and reveled in the sound.
I then turned off the machine and restarted it. NO SOUND. Grrrrrrrr. What the fffffffactory settings.
So... I pressed the diagnostic button, and it played just fine (and normal, of not faster (than I am used to)). I then tried the grounding the pins, and it no longer works. This makes no sense.
So... what does work. The amp, the chips (I have both sounds and voice). I have proper positive voltages. The negative voltage is running -18v.

Quoted from SpaceAce:

So... I played for like an hour tonight. The conclusion... 1. This is a great game, and 2. I suck (though the margarita was probably not helping either).
I got up to a massive 270K tonight. The game eventually was over and then I looked up to see the default 2,500,000 flashing in between my high score.
Question 1. Is there any way reset this thing to a far lower number so I can play against myself and not a crazy impossible level that I wont reach... well for a while (cough... ever)? I found 13, which I changed, but it doesn't seem to have made a difference.
2. In watching some internets webz videos, I have noticed that a lot of people are nudging the machine. Is this an acceptable part of play? I mean I know that there's electronics at play to keep people from getting carried away, but is nudging a thing? Is it considered poor play, or just part of play?
In repair news... Interestingly when I turned the machine tonight, I had full on sound from the start. I played the crap out of it for like an hour. Not an issue. Then I turned it off as an experiment. I left it off for about 10 seconds. When I turned it on, there was no sound. So... while it was on, it was rock solid. After a brief repower, it was completely gone. That's a little odd. I will try this again tomorrow morning.

Quoted from epeabs:

I'm trying to work through some of my issues. I've started by making sure the Rottendog is working, by starting from the self test and it is working properly. In coil test, all my coils fire including the pop bumper. I next went to switch test and it is stuck on left kicker #17 saying that it is stuck, but in the couple games I have played, the left kicker works fine. Currently when loading balls, it will eject them into the ball trough, but once the third ball triggers the switch it is not playing sounds as it had done, and it won't allow me to start a game. While I have had a game going I have manually tried to activate most of the switches and they do not register. Example, left and right outlanes, behind the kicker lanes, spinner, etc. (all the drop targets are working fine). Also when playing a game sometimes it will just lose flippers altogether. When clearcoating the playfield I never stripped the back of the playfield, just the top. So I haven't removed or adjusted these switches during the clearcoating. I'm not thinking that it is a matter of readjusting all these switches since the clearcoating isn't the thickness of say a "hardtop".

Quoted from epeabs:

Haven't had a chance to delve back into these issues yet. Schwaggs thank you for the Switch Matrix diagram printout direction, it is a great way to visualize potential issues.
[quoted image]

Quoted from epeabs:

Schwaggs I have cleared the ball roll tilt and the right ball ramp switches. At this time, column 5 is still out but I have not had a chance to look at it again. In that column none of those switches seem to be registering when I activate them.

Quoted from SpaceAce:

Cool. Would it be totally silly just to buy a set of 40's and cut (Dremel) a few down to 28's?

Quoted from epeabs:

This troubleshooting makes me feel like I'm running in circles. I have replaced the U17 switch matrix chip on the Rdog board. BK still won't start a game. Trying to go through testing. When I start into test mode, as soon as I press the advance to go into the display test, my left kicker is energizing and sticking on. It won't release until either the 2.5A solenoid fuse blows, or I shut the machine off. I just removed one leg of the left kicker solenoid diode and it tests fine so I have resoldered it back together. Any thoughts on areas of the Rdog 327-1 board to troubleshoot?

Quoted from epeabs:

I know. I'm almost there. So far with any of my machines, I've been able to diagnose and fix the issue with the assistance of great Pinsiders. I'm also considering (since I have the original mpu, but missing the driver board) of getting a driver board and bulletproofing them both. Then eliminating the Rdog altogether. But I'm still not positive I haven't missed something in wiring that might have gotten "tweaked" during clearcoating, etc.

Quoted from epeabs:

Playfield level switches are not closed and no terminals or wires are touching each other. Don't find any shorts in the wiring, and all wiring is solid and not loose or sketchy. I pulled off one end of the capacitor and retried the switch test but it still locks on. I think it is time to contact Rottendog about sending in the board. In the mean time I will keep my eye out for a system 7 MPU. I misspoke before and just realized I have the original driver board and a "spare" not the MPU. The original is in rough shape with some burn to it and a hack on the back. The "spare" looks initially to be in better shape and possibly a better candidate for bulletproofing.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from epeabs:

Okay. So lets recap. I spoke to Jim at Rottendog today numerous times troubleshooting over the phone. In the long run he doesn't feel it is the board and the issue is somewhere on (under) the playfield. Again, nothing is looking out of place to me but I'm figuring I am overlooking something. I just installed four new kicker upright switches which I hadn't installed yet. Now, once I was able to get through switch test without the left kicker sticking and all the switches are open. During solenoid test the left kicker did not stick, but at some point during the test, the fuse blew. The machine turns on, lights up, no sound. Add balls and now the ball launch does not send them to the right ball ramp. Just tried test again and the left kicker is sticking upon pushing advance.

I just removed 2J13 from the board and the sling did not lock up. The left kicker did not fire, the right kicker did not fire and the pop bumper did not fire. So I think I've confirmed it is not the board. But I can not find what the hell the problem is. And like most things it is probably staring me in the face.

Quoted from sethbenjamin:

So, I'm coming to the end of a BK playfield swap, and have done all the things you're supposed to do but have no power to the right flippers. I can't figure it out and it's making me nuts!
There's current going to the switches, there's equal voltage to all 4 coils, I've got good continuity from the cabinet switches to the coils. The right flippers *initially worked*, but quickly died completely. I don't have the wiring reversed (Upper right - BLUE to banded side of diode, BLK/YEL to non-banded. Lower right - BLUE to banded side, BLU/VIO to non-banded), and the flipper fuse in the backbox is fine, as are the fuses under the playfield (checked continuity through the fuse holder to be sure the old holders were getting good contact. They are.)
The boards are new. I have also done a continuity check from the power lug back to the driver board, and from the ground lug at the cabinet switch back to the board, just to be sure there wasn't a problem with the connectors themselves. Also have continuity in those places.
I am completely stumped. It's probably something dead simple staring me in the face, but I've checked through all the things I can think to. Very strange problem. Help?

Quoted from sethbenjamin:

Neither.

Quoted from sethbenjamin:

OK, so, RH flippers still seem to be working, cool, and I've got the whole game re-assembled. But...now the stupid game will not start.

Quoted from canoncitypb:

I'll give that a try.

I can occasionally save it with a slap, but not very often.
It would be interesting to hear from Steve Ritchie on this one. I'm assuming that some things are designed in and some are happy or unhappy coincidences.

Quoted from epeabs:

After taking a hiatus from doing too much on the BK, I got my board back from Allan at Ardvark. It looks almost as nice as the day it was new. In the meantime I replaced all the header pins on the driver board. I will replace all my connectors when I have time, since I placed a large Mouser order for connectors and trifurcon pins. I installed the boards yesterday morning. The game started up fine and did not stick the left slingshot. But it would not start a game. In switch test there were no stuck switches. I continued to play with the trough switches which seemed troublesome before. I had a couple of the ball trough switches that were intermittent. I chased continuity through the circuit and realized that the connector from the playfield to the head is wonky. I "tweaked" the connector and spayed with DeOxit and now it is working for the most part. I have been able to play several games without any major issues. I have several switches that are still not registering, and my pop bumper and right slingshot, which were firing in coil test do not currently work during the game. I will replace at least that one connector and will probably replace a fair amount of them, before I beat my head against a wall trying to troubleshoot too deeply. I do have a question concerning what connector to order from Mouser or Great Plains. It is a 15 pin plug/receptacle connector, but I am not sure if it is the .093" size Molex?
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from northvibe:

Pulled up the manual from ipdb. Confirmed the coil list, all flippers are the 30-750, ordering 2 to replace the two rights.
The one thing I want to confirm is the drop target springs. I can't find any info on those. Are they the standard pbl drop target reset?
https://www.pinballlife.com/drop-target-reset-spring.html
I have the sleeve kit from marco and when I do the drops. I want to pull them apart, clean and replace the spring. A few of them are not dropping easily like below

Quoted from epeabs:

I'm hoping to put this issue to bed. Fresh boards, and it boots up. When I credit a game, it immediately locks the jet bumper. I just replaced the lower half of the jet bumper switch that is actuated by the spoon and I have replaced the diode just in case. And it is doing the same thing. I feel I am so close to finally having a complete up and running BK. Any other thoughts?
[quoted image]

Quoted from epeabs:

Yes. Although self test doesn't seem to do anything when button is pressed. Been on quick vacation with my wife and coming home tonight. Hopefully get back into this soon.

Quoted from epeabs:

Upon powering up game the led display flashes 0 and the two led's light then display and led's go out. Pushing lower diagnostic button nothing happens, pressing higher button the 0 and the two leds come on but as soon as it is released, the display and the leds go out.

Quoted from epeabs:

All is not good. No voltage at TP4, unless I am not grounding at a proper location. I have never tested at a test point before. This new problem didn't happen until I replaced the Q6 transistor, which makes no sense to me. I only removed the driver out of the backbox to do it and never even removed the CPU.

Quoted from epeabs:

Had my CPU and Driver out and on my bench tester with my Leon's test ROM. Ultimately I ended up doing a reset and put the boards back in. Diagnostics button works properly and flashes "0" with the two LED's and then "0" and LED's go out. Again while crediting a game, the jet bumper locks on. I just pulled the driver and replaced the IC6 with a new 7408. Reinstalled and it still locks the jet. I have a new 7402 I can install. Is there a way to test the 100 ohm resistor and the capacitor on the jet bumper switch (could that be a possibility)? Dang I want to get this up and running, I just got a CPR replacement plastics set for Christmas I need to install.

Quoted from epeabs:

I have just replaced the capacitor on the jet bumper switch. I have even adjusted the switch so it doesn't contact even when the spoon is depressed. Upon trying to credit a game or going into diagnostics it locks the jet. I now adjusted the switch so that it has continuity with my DMM. The other thing I did was trim the end of the score switch for the jet bumper because it looked fairly close to the spring and I know @Crispin had an issue with his Black Knight with the end of the switch grounding out on the spring. Not sure how, but it is not locking the jet bumper anymore. But it also isn't working. I have retested Q6 and Q5 and they both test good. I can play a game, but again with no jet bumper working.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from topkat:

Is there a site that sells the star posts? I scoured marcos and they dont seem to be the same as what was there originally?

Quoted from MoSeS_1592:

This is interesting to me since I have also attempted to clean these posts in my Taxi with not much luck. It seems like the old dry, worn out rubbers leave a residue/grit that is just impossible to remove completely from the plastic posts. This question may belong in the restoration forums but does anyone have any tips on how to restore these things to a like-new appearance? It would be nice if it was possible to restore the original posts if someone were OCD about original parts/authenticity and such.

Quoted from northvibe:

I had a little get together to play test my BK and it would randomly do this in the pic. 2’s would scroll, one time it just ejected a locked ball and a game continued, the other time a ball got locked and then it did this but wouldn’t eject a ball. Not sure what is going on or what to look for.
[quoted image]

Quoted from zacaj:

Only way to start 2 ball usually is via the bottom lock eject, I'd check that switch too

Quoted from Brdmanstl:

I have found myself in the same situation as you, have you received any response on this or found a work around?
Jim

Quoted from PinballConspiracy:

just Joined this club! excited to get to work on it. its working but needs work. Want a new playfield but this one isn't bad..some where on right magna save and on some of the black outlines of inserts. Surely the cpr version has come and gone? lol anyone got one available?

Quoted from PinballConspiracy:

Thankyou!
having sound issues currently
when i flip on the power switch the game makes a sequence of crazy sounds like its about to go into lift-off but when i push start button everything goes mute..had sound at the sellers home and during first game when i brought it home but it cut out mid game. any input helps thnx

Quoted from wolffcub:

Game did it 2 times during my first few games but as the night went on it never happened again, and that was about a few dozen games. Is Vids bulletproofing the Williams system 7 posts still the go to for updating these boards ? i noticed its quite old but still seems to have some traffic thu the topic.

Quoted from CreepyPinball:

Anyone know a comparable chip that can take the place of this one? I’m spinning my wheels trying to find one. It’s right above the battery to the left, I need to replace it or bypass if possible. The numbers on top of it are /I8223 MM74COON
Battery corrosion hit that ic pretty hard.
Thanks in advance![quoted image]

Quoted from Andy_B:

Dunno. Maybe I'm just being a bit anal.
[quoted image][quoted image]
In fairness it looks a lot worse in the close up pictures.

Quoted from Andy_B:

This wasnt something I considered when installing the hardtop but it is definitely an issue. Occasionally a slow ball does get stuck behind the lip at the bottom of the ramp.
I will have to shim it 0.030" or 0.8mm as we like to call it here in the 21st century

Quoted from Turdbol:

Inviting myself into my first club here! Picked this up the other day for dirt cheap. It doesn't currently work, the battery holder has a decent amount of corrosion but the boards 'appear' clean. I pulled the batteries and it boots to test mode, but upon exiting - it will appear 'ready' to start a game, but none of the attract lights work. The game boots to a 2500 03 code in test mode - with no batteries or balls in it. Before I convinced it to get into test mode, it would blow the F2 fuse for solenoid. So in test mode, the flippers work, but none of the solenoids do. I think this will be a fun project and I know NOTHING about pins - so the whole thing will be an in depth learning process![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Xtraball:

Trisodium Phosphate

Quoted from MultiBallMike:

I had the driver board and MPU rebuilt. Put it back together and it burned up again within about 60 seconds. Prior to doing so, I realized the bottom left drop targets were not working properly. I've confirmed the transistor that burned up is for that set of targets. I then discovered the coil for the targets was melted badly, so I replaced it, repaired the board again, and again, the same transistor started smoking within 60 seconds. I turned it off in time not to burn it up as bad. I'm not sure where to go from here since I have replaced the coil on the target that I know is related to the transistor on the board that keeps melting. Any thoughts?

Quoted from Michel_K17:

Thanks! The area you are referring to is for reference. I use inkspace, and these items are on a unique layer which I make invisible when sending the file to the printer. I intend to make this artwork available to the forum members once I have completed a successful print and installation.

Quoted from Boise_D:

I’d like to replace the GI connectors and header. Can anyone point me to the right header? Is that just 2 pins?

Quoted from Michel_K17:

Hi vec-tor,
Thank you for your reply. Here are some answers:
1. Maybe to make better contact to ground?
- Although I saw someone refer them to as a "ground", they are in-fact independent of one another, and not connected to the main ground. They are more like a "return" line perhaps?

Quoted from Michel_K17:

Printers had to reprint the vinyls because:
1. One image did not transfer properly from the PDF (they admitted that they had to fix it); and
2. The vinyl was super-glossy even though I had asked for an egg shell Sheen
My Lessons Learned in regards to the printing & application process:
1. Make sure that you ask for a top clear layer on top of the vinyl print - it makes the vinyl thicker and protects the print from scratches
2. Ask for scrap pieces of vinyl from the print shop. It was nice to be able to practice without the stress of ruining the final print!
3. Get a roller! Even the "soft" applicator the vinyl print shop gave me tended to make scratches. I put some velcro on one side of the applicator, and even then it was not foolproof.
4. Wet vs dry. Material was 3M Controltac for which I paid more ($284 before taxes), but I was told that it the longevity is much better. This material has channels to allow the air to exit ("air egress" feature). However, no matter what I did (with the practice pieces), I would still get the occasional air bubble. The 3M instructions said to avoid the wet method because there is no means for the water to dry if any of it gets trapped, However, the print shop highly recommended the wet method anyway. Since my cabinet had a layer of clear, and it was fairly flat, I went ahead, and used the "wet" method, using a light mist of water (with 2 drops of detergent per liter). Procedure was easy: the roller allowed me to fully push out any trapped water, and after 24 hours, I can attest that the vinyl has adhered to the cabinet very well and it was fully flat with no bubbles. Generally speaking, I used the procedure from Australia shown on youtube here (except I used far less water). Trimming just shy of the corner worked well.

5. I did not need to use an assistant. Separating the film was easy, and I used a trimmed piece of underlay to grab the end, and keep the end stiffso that the corners would not fold.
6. I used the triangles at bottom of each print to align the pieces with the cabinet, and it all lined up well.
7. I did not remove the rails, and simply trimmed around them. Worked well.
8. Total time to apply the vinyl: 5 hours. This excludes removing/re-installing the legs, and playing with the practice pieces of vinyl.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from EilersPark:

Rottengog MPU327 resets - SOLVED!
I wanted to revisit this topic as several folks had had issues with the Rottendog MPU327 resetting when both flippers are energized at the same time. In my case, I had a completely working machine before adding the MPU327. I was using a Rottendog PS board with all other OEM boards. No issues. When I swapped in the Rottendog MPU, the issue started happening. I checked connectors, voltages, etc. All good.
The issue appeared to be the GND reference between the MPU and PS boards. I added a dedicated wire with U connectors on it from board to board, attaching under a mounting screw on each board. It has been bullet proof for the last 2 years. I did pass this along to Jim to let him know as well.
I hope this helps

Quoted from EilersPark:

Maybe they could have been weakened by disconnecting and reconnecting them. I have stock wiring harness connectors (original) and I suppose it is possible that it was the problem, however the problem only occurred after I changed to the Rottendog MPU, which is the same as reported by others. I could probably prove / disprove this by putting back my original System 7 boards but since it's working great I don't want to change anything. Not trying to throw Rottendog under the bus here but maybe the board does have some grounding issue. Regardless I just wanted to share my solution.

Quoted from MoSeS_1592:

Audit/adjustment question here.
I'm trying to reset the high score to date (adjustment #13). I already cleared and reset the bookkeeping/audits and I set adjustment 13 to my desired high score to date at 600,000. For some reason no matter what i do i cannot get high score to date any lower than 2,500,000. It always defaults to that initial score until a higher score is achieved. Is this the minimum allowed or am I just missing something obvious here?
Also, will BK retain the top four highest scores and display them in attract mode or only the all time high score to date?

Quoted from HHaase:

Glad it was an easy fix! We've all done it at least twice.
-Hans

Quoted from EilersPark:

CPR vs Micro Playfield:
I was wondering who here had experience with the BK playfiled from Micro. Are they good quality? I just saw an add for one here and then went to their website which seems to not have pictures of most of what they are offering. They seem to be duplicating a bunch of what CPR has already done, which doesn't seem like it helps the community much. Just wondering what peoples thoughts are.
I have CPR Silver Knight Edition #35 so I'm partial to CPR.

Quoted from frenchmarky:

You can tell BK is an early speech game not only because of the limited vocabulary but how they had to 'cheat' a little bit. Like how when he says "THREE ENEMIES" the 'three' is really just 'the' with a soft 'th' and an R sort of stuck in the middle so it sounds more like "THLEE". And 'against' sounds like 'again' with just a little bit of 's' at the end. Would be interesting to know exactly how the software assembles all the syllables and consonants in some of the words like fight and right if the word 'knight' is on one chip but F and R are on another, is it somehow chopping the KN off and putting L or R in front instead?

Quoted from Michel_K17:

Hi,
The 10's digits on my credit/match display are blank (instead of showing zeros) and then start flashing/blinking.
Any ideas which component might be the culprit?
Thanks!
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Quoted from Tomass:

Do they still sell these plates? Copper or brass but not sure.[quoted image]

Quoted from Andy_B:

My BK displays have decided to stop working. I tried a newly repaired CPU in the pin that has new ROMs and ROM sockets and passes all the tests with Marcos test ROM. (including ROM socket test)
I left the pin on for several hours with no problems initially.
The following day no displays. I have good 100V, -100V, 5V and 3.8V blanking to the master display board and have the orange glow in all the displays.
Although the machine boots into attract mode and I can add credits and start a game, I have an error code 4 on the CPU LED. This has changed from a 6 earlier today. These both relate to ROM issues. I am thinking this is unrelated to displays but can't understand how the pin is booting and playing.

Quoted from EStroh:

I have the 9 - pin to the sound board connected (with only 3 wires used of the 9 pins).
This is a 6 - pin. It's fairly long, but not quite long enough to get to the upper right portion of the head.
Any other ideas?
Again, thanks for any help.

Quoted from frenchmarky:

Except looking at my BK and the circuit diagram, there are three connector pin positions - 1/2, 5/6, & 8/9. On mine it's 1, 5 and 9. So you would need a span of at least seven pins where it would still work. This one looks like the three wires span only five positions. Unless somebody screwed with the old board's pin wiring including the n/c pos. 4 so it could work with only five but that would be weird.

Quoted from EStroh:

I'm fairly comfortable with the connector currently plugged into the sound board. First, it actually reaches the location and my "mystery connector" is about 6 inches to short. The one I have plugged in there is a 9 pin, with gray, gray/white, gray/green wires.
Could my "mystery connector" go to the playfiled? Or maybe the MPU prior to the Rottendog MPU/Driver combo board? Or maybe to the original power supply prior to the XPin conversion? What's really puzzling is that I don't have anything left on the boards that doesn't already have something plugged into it.
The "mystery connector" is not fused, coming straight from the transformer (circled in yellow)
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Quoted from Tomass:

Looking for some help with an odd speech issue. Speech works when I use the test button, but not in game. In game when there is speech, it sounds like static and someone whistling over it. Almost like someone whistling at a ballgame.