(Topic ID: 54503)

Black Knight Club...Members Only!


By mof

6 years ago



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There are 2095 posts in this topic. You are on page 7 of 42.
#301 5 years ago

Bad coil! The kickout to the shooter lane looks like it got shredded by the shooter arm. I'm the Nth owner so I while I've looked at the coil at least what feels like a 100 times in the last month or so, it never registered, since it seemed to work.

When using the normal 2.5A fuse I could get it to blow after what would seem randomly a few minutes. Went back to it tonight and shot the ball around manually with the glass off. Then it drained... then the kicker shot it out of the drain a couple times (think the arm linkage is old) then it simply did not kick a new ball into the shooter lane and the fuse was gone again.

Hmmm... remembered what that coil looked like and it's done.

coil.jpg

#302 5 years ago

Hey can I uncoil a layer to remove the damaged section to test? I've got a new one on the way. I think I've read you should remove no more than 20% of the total length/volume.

#303 5 years ago

http://www.zaccaria-pinball.com/misc/arnold.html
Point #30. Going to give it a whirl. I figure the worst thing that could happen is blow another fuse.

#304 5 years ago

Humph. That didn't help at all. I've clearly remove the damaged section. I guess that wasn't the issue.

#305 5 years ago

maybe you removed too much and created a short of sort. maybe unhook it all together and manually kick the ball in trough ??

#306 5 years ago

or maybe check the resistance to see where your at. http://www.flippers.com/coil-resistance.html

#307 5 years ago

So all of you Black Knight owners, what are some of the other games in your collections. I saw some of the pictures posted with some games next to it, but how about the rest of you? I have my Black Knight which I have had since 1988, I added a Twilight Zone in 2008 I believe and Indiana Jones (The Pinball Adventure) in 2012. I have an Ice Cold Beer which I also play that I picked up at an auction in probably 2004.

#308 5 years ago

I have a mix of all eras, but I probably favor the 80s games. Right next to the Black Knight are Baby Pacman and GTB '68 Bowling Queen.

#309 5 years ago

I have Black Knight, Black Knight 2000, Breakshot, Airborne, Lord of the Rings, Tales of the Arabian Nights, Game Show, Riverboat Gambler, Revenge From Mars, Star Wars Episode 1, 4 video games, and a pool table. I like variety LOL

Chris

#310 5 years ago
Quoted from boydsc331:

maybe you removed too much and created a short of sort. maybe unhook it all together and manually kick the ball in trough ??

Right. With it connected - not having tried the alternative yet. I've started just triggering random coils. It seems that when the bumper is fired, the ball release coil (drain) is firing as well. That's odd. I suppose if I were to run the game with one coil disconnected at a time, I should be able to isolate.

Anyone see an issue with that methodology?

Finding a 2.5A slow blow at a local store seems to be quite the mission. Auto parts supply seem to have everything but that value.

#311 5 years ago

I'm a fan of 80s games and earlier mostly. I'll buy a DMD-based game someday - would love to have a Scared Stiff or Attack From Mars. In addition to BK I have an Alien Poker and a Black Hole, plus one EM - a Williams Aces & Kings. There's also a MAME cabinet for arcade emulation.

#312 5 years ago

I have Taxi and Jokerz. I'm out of room, but still want more pins and a MAME machine.

#313 5 years ago

I've got 4 DMD pins, a Williams, two stern, an Alvin G, two game plan pins, a Zaccaria and of course, my BK. Collections all over the place, which is what I like!~SpOoKy

#314 5 years ago

Nightflight, I think your PIA for the solonoids is toast. Far left on the driver board maybe a 7402 ic too.

#315 5 years ago
Quoted from Razor:

Nightflight, I think your PIA for the solonoids is toast. Far left on the driver board maybe a 7402 ic too.

Hope not. It's all new Kohout boards except for the sound board. Still have the outhole/drain kickout firing at the same time as the bumper when triggered. Scratching my noodle with that one and pouring over the switch matrix. The certain drop targets when triggered manually trigger game reset or tilt too.

#316 5 years ago

Hi everybody, I´d like to be a member of this great club. I´m from Argentina and I have two b.k. Let me tell you that next to my b.k. I have a Skateball, Bally 1980 and a Future Spa, Bally 1979. I want to sell one B.K. and buy a Firepower.

#317 5 years ago

Example from BK manual:
Shorted diodes (or an incorrectly wired switch) can cause "rectangle" switch matrix problems as follows: The lower left 3-bank upper target is down (switch 27), and lower right 3-bank center target is down (switch 30). A ball enters the lockup trough making switch 43, a shorted diode at switch 27 would cause switch 46 Playfield Tilt to be (incorrectly) indicated. Note that the "rectangle" is always completed with an incorrect switch diagonally opposite from the switch with the shorted diode.

BK switch matrix_01.jpg

#318 5 years ago

Finally obtaining a 2A TD fuse for I could use for diagnostics (ran out of fast blo's). The top right 3-bank lower target triggers +10 credits in attract mode. It also triggers the lower right bank while in gameplay - but I can't tell which target. Top right 3-bank center target triggers 2 credits. Top right 3-bank upper target triggers door lock and game reset.

Long story short, I think my switch issue is here:

IMG_0437.JPG

Can I wire to bypass the last switch?

#319 5 years ago

Okay, your all very polite letting me work out that three lugs on a switch makes no electrical difference. The first lug is not connected to the switch contacts and serves only as a binding location and to jumper the diode. My open connection in the coin door should have no effect other than showing as a normally open switch.

#320 5 years ago

Correct. That center coin switch is a good example of a correctly wired switch. You need to check all the other switches for something that does not look right. Also, take all balls out, all drop targets up and go into switch test and see if any show as closed. Then test each switch one at a time and make sure the proper switch number is reported.

#321 5 years ago

Yeah, I have switch driver line 5 stuck on the diag LED of the khout driver board. Jeff is going to send me parts, assuming an IC is popped. Anyone have any experience properly diagnosing a Khout board? I've been speaking with Jeff via email, but I don't think he really has the time to break it down. I'm going to be away in a week or so, so I'm avoiding international shipping right now. If I can figure out which ICs, I can just get them from mouser.ca overnight.

#322 5 years ago

Well, the SN7406 in IC17 would blow when the bell went off - taking out switch driver line 5. I sacrificed 3 SN7406 hex line buffers to determine that. Disconnected the the switch on the bell and the game seems to play fine again and is no longer seems endlessly possessed. Of course... its just lying in wait before the next thing goes.

There's a cap on the bell switch, I suspect that has dried up and gone to heaven. Also the contacts are really bad so that could be playing part as well.

Does anyone have a mod to replace the bell? I don't actually care for it, nor the fam when they are sleeping.

#323 5 years ago

Nope. Blew the IC17 SN7406 again. The PIA so far as I can tell are fine.

Are any of the switches in the PF supposed to have caps? I've got one on my bumper as well. I think on the relay coils for the magnets as well, but I'll have to look again. Right now the Black Knight wins again and I give up for the day.

#324 5 years ago
Quoted from robertmee:

I've got a BK that I had all intents to restore, but alas, my business has kept me too busy and it's time to let it go. I have no idea how to value it as it is all in pieces (how I received it to begin with).
Details:
New CPR Playfields
New CPR Plastic set missing one plastic but have the old one
Two working board sets
Refinished cabinet with new back and luan bottom. Average stencil job on cabinet, head needs redone
New Mayfair mirrored Backglass
All the metal parts, side rails, coin door, powdercoated gray sparkle
All the parts are accounted for as far as I can tell, just needs a complete reassembly. The previous owner started populating the playfield, but I would probably start it over myself and clean up the wiring harness a bit.
I hate to part it out and I know I'd get more money if I did, but I'm hoping a BK lover wants to restore it back. Any idea as to what would be a fair price for something like this?
I don't want to ship...any locals feel free to PM me if interested.

I'm the fella who bought this project from robertmee. I felt the price was a fair one. Robert seems like a really cool guy. He did a great job on the bottom luan replacement. The cabinet art is like he says, "average". So far I have the back box back in Virginia where my paint equiptment is. I'm going to repaint it, then the bottom cabinet. My wife is going to paint the side art. Robert did give me the stencils but I may have a better way. If someone here could please post high res pics of the sidearts and art around the coin door that would be much appreciated. Please make the pics as straight on without and angle as possible. I can print the pics and my wife can hand paint this. I've seen her do it before, not on a pin, and it looks amazing. It helps being married to an art major. I have nice hvlp equiptment. Should I clear coat the back box and cabinet? I can't wait to post the results!

Anways, It appears all the parts are here. Once I get into putting it all together I will know for sure. The play fields are amazing. Great job CPR. I'll be pulling parts from them and polishing. Anyone know a good technique for cleaning the wires? The legs, side rails and coin door are very pretty. He had them powder coated a metallic dark gray. The repro back glass is awesome however the original don't look bad either.

I plan to go back with full led's. I've read so much about these games having heat and wiring issues from the gi pulling so much amperage. Robertmee, if you are reading this, after I'm done you're welcome to come by and bash this thing.

#325 5 years ago
Quoted from NightFlight73:

Nope. Blew the IC17 SN7406 again. The PIA so far as I can tell are fine.
Are any of the switches in the PF supposed to have caps? I've got one on my bumper as well. I think on the relay coils for the magnets as well, but I'll have to look again. Right now the Black Knight wins again and I give up for the day.

So the SN7406 blows when the bumper and another coil fire at the same time. I can reproduce it by firing one of the upper bank reset coils and the bumper together. Costs me an IC every time.

Any ideas what the root cause would be?

Also discovered the playfield clear coating around back of the bumper is coming up. Feeling a bit screwed about that. No idea what to do there.

#326 5 years ago

Quick, can someone please post a correctly wired jet bumper? Thanks in advance!

#327 5 years ago

Okay, think I finally got the ghost in the machine!!!

The diode across the jet bumper coil was not making full contact on one leg. Truth be told, the whole soldering job on the upper PF is crap. Odd, but the IC17 7406 would only blow when the bumper and a coil from one of the drop banks would fire at the same time. After fixing that connection I can no longer reproduce the issue. Yay for Kohout diagnostic LEDs and completely socketed ICs. I would have never found that otherwise.

I think I'm going to try some good thick packing tape on the bad clear coat behind the bumper and see if it holds out until spring. Bad idea? I've really had no play time on this thing since I got it. That and I'm out of cash. *sigh*

In the spring I'll build a rotisserie and overhaul the PF electrical connections and coils as well as tackle the clear coat which seems to have bubbled and cracked.

#328 5 years ago
Quoted from maestro:

I plan to go back with full led's. I've read so much about these games having heat and wiring issues from the gi pulling so much amperage. Robertmee, if you are reading this, after I'm done you're welcome to come by and bash this thing.

I've read that not filling the entire back panel with LEDs is better. Gets you less reflection in the glass and gives better contrast to the sections that are lit. I went with the cointaker kit and find it a bit bright. I got some blue LEDs for behind the backglass title (http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=2166) which seem to disperse the light. If I did it again I would not go with a kit and just pick them out. But at the time I had no idea what I needed and could not find a definitive guide for this machine.

I also mean to get some diffused warm white LEDs for the GI and get rid all of the harsh cointaker kit LEDs there. They are too harsh when you get them in the eye. Maybe I can sell them or something.

#329 5 years ago

Glad to hear that you fixed you diode issue.
Don't know which LED's are in the CT kit, but I prefer the frosted ones as they tend to disperse better.
The Ablaze LED's seem to be less bright too.

#330 5 years ago

I was doing some "maintenance" today on my BK jet bumper. I thought it was really simple to replace the leaf switch as the spoon was all worn out so I didn't take any before pictures. Now I have a problem. Game will not start and lower ball kicker keeps going off every two or three seconds. I think I must have miswired something. Any pictures of the proper connections would be a great help.

#331 5 years ago

Oy. My drain kicker would fire with the jet bumper as a sign that the 7406 at line drive 5 on IC17 was blown. Doesn't mean it is for you, just my current experience. Do you have an original driver board?

#332 5 years ago

I have replaced both the cpu and driver boards from Kohout Pinball pcb a while ago. I think they have some diagostic capabilities but I can't figure out the schematics. I am thinking that if I had a picture of the wire wire on the jet bumper switch it may be all I need.

#333 5 years ago
Quoted from maestro:

I'm the fella who bought this project from robertmee. I felt the price was a fair one. Robert seems like a really cool guy. He did a great job on the bottom luan replacement. The cabinet art is like he says, "average". So far I have the back box back in Virginia where my paint equiptment is. I'm going to repaint it, then the bottom cabinet. My wife is going to paint the side art. Robert did give me the stencils but I may have a better way. If someone here could please post high res pics of the sidearts and art around the coin door that would be much appreciated. Please make the pics as straight on without and angle as possible. I can print the pics and my wife can hand paint this. I've seen her do it before, not on a pin, and it looks amazing. It helps being married to an art major. I have nice hvlp equiptment. Should I clear coat the back box and cabinet? I can't wait to post the results!
Anways, It appears all the parts are here. Once I get into putting it all together I will know for sure. The play fields are amazing. Great job CPR. I'll be pulling parts from them and polishing. Anyone know a good technique for cleaning the wires? The legs, side rails and coin door are very pretty. He had them powder coated a metallic dark gray. The repro back glass is awesome however the original don't look bad either.
I plan to go back with full led's. I've read so much about these games having heat and wiring issues from the gi pulling so much amperage. Robertmee, if you are reading this, after I'm done you're welcome to come by and bash this thing.

Awesome....can't wait to see it, although I'll probably want to buy it back!

#334 5 years ago
Quoted from Farmboss:

I have replaced both the cpu and driver boards from Kohout Pinball pcb a while ago. I think they have some diagostic capabilities but I can't figure out the schematics. I am thinking that if I had a picture of the wire wire on the jet bumper switch it may be all I need.

Just back from VK, I'll try and get in there for you and take a pic today. Are any of the switch Drivers LEDs stuck lit? On the Kohout board its the LED row below IC17. IC17 is in the top right corner. If so you likely have a blown 7406. You can test that by fully powering down and swapping the 7406 with IC18 and if you get a lamp row LED stuck then you need a new 7406 which you can order pretty cheap from mouser and receive it next day. I ordered 20 to diagnose and I blew 8 of them to determine I had a short in the jet bumper diode.

#335 5 years ago

Cleaning out and re-springing my drop targets today so here is the best I could do without yet having a rotisserie.

Wiring from the LEFT
Wiring from the RIGHT

Hope this helps!

#336 5 years ago
Quoted from LEE:

Glad to hear that you fixed you diode issue.
Don't know which LED's are in the CT kit, but I prefer the frosted ones as they tend to disperse better.
The Ablaze LED's seem to be less bright too.

Blew the IC17 7406 again after hitting the jet bumper a couple times. Lost the GI for a fraction of a second while the surge happened. Now that I've posted mine as 'correctly' wired - can anyone confirm that as true? Having purchased a unit with unknown history - nothing can be trusted. The soldering sure as hell isn't factory - if it is I'll eat my hat.

Also, can anyone chip in an tell me how to correctly wire a coil? Does direction matter or is it only the diode that needs to taken into account?

#337 5 years ago

have a shooter spring issue, if i get 2 or 3 balls stuck in the lane, cant shoot the balls out, what spring color are you using

#338 5 years ago

First question, how are you getting that many in the lane? I occasionally get two, after I fiddled with the ejector there. Could switch 17 not be getting released properly?

#339 5 years ago

Looks to me to be wired correctly. The stripe on the diodes are orientated to the right in my pic. Did you replace the cap w a new one?

P1030835.JPG

#340 5 years ago
Quoted from NightFlight73:

First question, how are you getting that many in the lane? I occasionally get two, after I fiddled with the ejector there. Could switch 17 not be getting released properly?

I've had that occur in multiplayer games during the bonus ball round when whomever is playing doesn't get a full plunge as balls drain. As soon as the ball leaves the switch in the plunger lane, the game pops out another if one is waiting in the trough, then the one that didn't exit the plunger lane comes back down. Rinse and repeat and you can get all 3 stuck in there. The stock spring weight won't throw them out.

#341 5 years ago

Yes! Finally finished my cpr playfield swap. Turn out extremlely nice. Only thing is that now it plays very fast and the black knight seems unjust and hard on the player. Barely makes 1.000.000 points.
Upgrades made:
-New wpc flippers on all flippers.
-New mosfet transistors on lamp matrix. Both rows and column driver transistors swapped
-new black pompbumper skirt.
- new decals on spinner and drop targets
- new cpr plastic set.
- new post cap plastics and rubbers. Rubbers only on slings.
No leds anywhere, but might consider putting warm white leds behind the backglass to minimise heat.

Total hours approx 60. But didnt count them. Too much fun and a very learning experience since it was my first pf swap.
image-591.jpgimage.jpg

#342 5 years ago
Quoted from svendmute:

Yes! Finally finished my cpr playfield swap. Turn out extremlely nice. Only thing is that now it plays very fast and the black knight seems unjust and hard on the player. Barely makes 1.000.000 points.
Upgrades made:
-New wpc flippers on all flippers.
-New mosfet transistors on lamp matrix. Both rows and column driver transistors swapped
-new black pompbumper skirt.
- new decals on spinner and drop targets
- new cpr plastic set.
- new post cap plastics and rubbers. Rubbers only on slings.
No leds anywhere, but might consider putting warm white leds behind the backglass to minimise heat.
Total hours approx 60. But didnt count them. Too much fun and a very learning experience since it was my first pf swap.

image.jpg 221 KB

image-591.jpg 201 KB

Looks very nice. I'm going to add WPC mechanics to the lower flippers, but adding to the uppers? Man those drops are going to take a beating. Again looks like you've done a very nice job with the swap.

#343 5 years ago
Quoted from rottenrobert1313:

Looks very nice. I'm going to add WPC mechanics to the lower flippers, but adding to the uppers? Man those drops are going to take a beating. Again looks like you've done a very nice job with the swap.

I'm not sure that the force of the ball off the flipper just from changing out the return spring style is any different. It "sounds" more forceful with the "clack" sound that is introduced. I would think if the coil is left alone, that the only difference is the <5% improvement in force due to a new sleeve in there. I haven't done my upper two either, but it's certainly on my to do list for "Someday"

-mof

#344 5 years ago
Quoted from svendmute:

Yes! Finally finished my cpr playfield swap. Turn out extremlely nice. Only thing is that now it plays very fast and the black knight seems unjust and hard on the player. Barely makes 1.000.000 points.
Upgrades made:
-New wpc flippers on all flippers.
-New mosfet transistors on lamp matrix. Both rows and column driver transistors swapped
-new black pompbumper skirt.
- new decals on spinner and drop targets
- new cpr plastic set.
- new post cap plastics and rubbers. Rubbers only on slings.
No leds anywhere, but might consider putting warm white leds behind the backglass to minimise heat.
Total hours approx 60. But didnt count them. Too much fun and a very learning experience since it was my first pf swap.

image.jpg 221 KB

image-591.jpg 201 KB

That looks awesome! Congrats!~SpOoKy

#345 5 years ago
Quoted from mof:

I'm not sure that the force of the ball off the flipper just from changing out the return spring style is any different. It "sounds" more forceful with the "clack" sound that is introduced. I would think if the coil is left alone, that the only difference is the <5% improvement in force due to a new sleeve in there. I haven't done my upper two either, but it's certainly on my to do list for "Someday"
-mof

Oh yeah...Duh! Never mind my last post. It is on the return side not the power side. (Face palm) I know when I did my Pinbot with WPC, they definitely sound more powerful, must be what had me thinking they actually were.

#346 5 years ago

how about a picture of those bottom flippers? Was it hard to convert them. My poor BK is begging for attention, mostly to the troughs.

#347 5 years ago
Quoted from Toyguy:

I've had that occur in multiplayer games during the bonus ball round when whomever is playing doesn't get a full plunge as balls drain. As soon as the ball leaves the switch in the plunger lane, the game pops out another if one is waiting in the trough, then the one that didn't exit the plunger lane comes back down. Rinse and repeat and you can get all 3 stuck in there. The stock spring weight won't throw them out.

Yes Multiplayer game, winner gets that extra 30sec's, if your not quick on the re plunge they stack up in the lane & your game is stuffed

#348 4 years ago
Quoted from Boise_D:

how about a picture of those bottom flippers? Was it hard to convert them. My poor BK is begging for attention, mostly to the troughs.

http://www.siegecraft.us/blackknight6.htm

I did my bottom flippers first, and have one of the top ones done as of yesterday. The return speed is important up top. The short return time off the bumper and drops finds the ball behind the flipper a lot up there. At least for me it does. The WPC help a lot with that issue.

#349 4 years ago
Quoted from svendmute:

Yes! Finally finished my cpr playfield swap. Turn out extremlely nice. Only thing is that now it plays very fast and the black knight seems unjust and hard on the player. Barely makes 1.000.000 points.
Upgrades made:
-New wpc flippers on all flippers.
-New mosfet transistors on lamp matrix. Both rows and column driver transistors swapped
-new black pompbumper skirt.
- new decals on spinner and drop targets
- new cpr plastic set.
- new post cap plastics and rubbers. Rubbers only on slings.
No leds anywhere, but might consider putting warm white leds behind the backglass to minimise heat.
Total hours approx 60. But didnt count them. Too much fun and a very learning experience since it was my first pf swap.

image.jpg 221 KB

image-591.jpg 201 KB

I missed the boat on the CPR PF. *cries* But great work!

#350 4 years ago
Quoted from LEE:

Looks to me to be wired correctly. The stripe on the diodes are orientated to the right in my pic. Did you replace the cap w a new one?

P1030835.JPG 222 KB

The orientation of the pic taken into account, my diode is oriented the same as yours. Seems my switch has an extra lug however.

A for the cap, I did this weekend. A pair of 10 PF caps I found in my kit in parallel. Both tested before they went in there. My 22MFD original was reading 40uF on my meter before replacing. So I thought that was it. And in fact my game played for about an hour with new 7406 in IC17. Played so well in fact, I stuck my kid on it for the final test. Needless to say, he blew up another IC. Starting to feel defeated.

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