Looking good!

Will the 3D printed parts hold up to the beating of the ball? I mean, I am guessing yes but was genuinely curious.

Chris

They should, I have a rollover one on my space shuttle and I whack the crap out of it. I'm not sure how it would hold up in an arcade but for my home use it's great so far. Cost is about $5/ea to have them printed in PETG.

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New light board is key, huge difference. BK is a good combo with Space shuttle!

Yea, the light board was a nice product for a decent price...

I certainly agree on the BK and Space Shuttle combo!

Populating the lower playfield some more, got all my replacement wood rails on and they look really nice I think. Polished up the shooter lane ball "flip" and I think it looks really nice. Pain to get in there to polish the inside of it, though!

I'm not happy w/ the quality of the old apron... it's pretty worn, I could clean it up a bit but wondering if there's a different solution that would get it like new. I polished up the playfield hangers and they turned out ok as well, but still a little rough. I had to put washers between the apron and the hangers so the playfield side would line up better with the hard top.

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The best solution i found for the apron is clean with novus using microfiber towel. Then touchup black with black paint pen. Touchup yellow with createx airbrush paint. Need to mix a little black or brown into it to make it match. Use a toothpick to dab on the nicks and scratches. Add new price cards and it should be presentable. If there is any decal glue try goo gone carefully.

Found this Justler

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Hey Thanks,

I got your PM as well!

Little bit of progress so far today…

Got all my 3d printed drop targets in the upper playfield! They look pretty awesome!

Also got the old flippers on lower and upper swapped to WPC style.

Got the pop bumper rebuilt (spring, spoon, rod and ring). Swapped from 44/47 to wedge socket. I think I like the red, yellow and black pop bumper. May have to paint the white part at the very bottom if it bothers me .

Also got the rest of the coils cleaned up/resleeved and plungers polished up as well as the rollovers and lock area.

Up next is polishing ramps and reassembling more of the top side of the upper playfield!

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Nice!! Looks amazing ..

Got things mostly back together. Need to solder the lights under the right side plastic back on. Wish I would have ordered a couple Molex connectors so I could just unplug them in the future. Will do it on the next Digikey/Mouser order. Psyched with how the black rails came out, was a bit more work but I think it looks really sharp.

Super happy with how it turned out!

Two things I need to resolve:

1. Get a ramp flap for the far left ramp because the positioning with the hard top is off a bit.

2. On the right ramp with the V notch at the top, the v for the hard top is off a bit. Not sure how I’m going to resolve this. I don’t think it will effect the play but it will bother me . No one else will probably notice it.

3. Need to get some machine screw playfield posts because a previous owner but wood screw ones in where a couple t nuts are.

4. Up by the ball lock there was never any mini post on mine.

5. I lost the wire for the middle ramp somewhere in the yard. It flew off while I was buffing :’(.

Got all the comet LEDs installed, black titan bands and their flipper rubbers on.

I’ve spent the last two days polishing everything and if I never polished anything again I’d be happy.

Tomorrow will be tying up a few loose ends (installing the middle ramp wire switch to playfield, installing new cabinet flipper button switches and installing the Inkochnito board.

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SteelTigers Looks great! I ended up going with comet LEDs and they look really nice. The problem I was trying to solve was when the lights aren’t lit. Turns out it’s not really very noticeable.

Progress has been a bit slow but I got the cabinet flipper switches replaced and the flippers hit nice and hard now.

Installed BriteButtons for flippers and magna save. Green for flipper red for magna save. On system 3-7 you have to plug the adapter board into 1j2. No instructions for that and britebuttons email contact and their webpage didn’t know. Found included Power tap board the kit comes with on pinball life’s page (where I bought everything). Their system 9/11 kit comes with this:

https://www.pinballlife.com/power-tap-board-for-williams-system-3-11.html

I’ll grab pics later. Only issues I seem to have now is my top left flipper gets stuck when fully flipped, I think it’s the bushing or the plastic on the bottom of the flipper. I don’t get a ball ejected into the shooter lane when I hit a ball into the top playfield ball lock. Haven’t done any digging yet/checking yet but I think the switches are working. Ordered a new roll under wire for the middle ramp, I guess possibly it could be related but doubtful.

Will post pics of progress tomorrow maybe!

Where'd you buy these at?

These are what I used in my Black Knight also.

Here’s an option if you have a bunch of 44/47s already as well:

https://www.pinballlife.com/silicone-bulb-caps-thin.html

Those can really dim a bulb though vs the painted glass ones.

What size diodes are on the switches on black Knight?

You can use just about anything. Common replacement is 1N4004 which is also common on lamps and coils.

You can use 1N4001 through 1N4007 in the switch and lamp matrix.

1N4004 through 1N4007 on coils.

Haven’t gotten to check the bound up flipper yet but it could be because it’s a little cockeyed. I used the flipper post spacing tool from Marco so it should be correct.

I plugged the board into 1j2 and stacked them and it works fine. My Black Knight came with a rottendog board already.

How are the cpr plastics? I’m going to need a set. Was going to order a back glass from them for BK and Space Shuttle to save on shipping but read the horse color was off.

I like to go this route also. Mostly because i re-use old GE bulbs. I hate LEDS and the new Eiko bulbs are really crappy.

Sadly GE bulbs are becoming unobtanium.

Unless they have corrected it since I bought my set originally in 2006/2007, the fine details were oversaturated and just looked bad. I sold that set at a loss to someone that wasn't as picky.

Get your BK glass from Mayfair, they've had them for years and they are spot on to the original.

I've found that if your plastics are bad, CPR is a good resource, but they definitely look better if you replace them all. That way it's not as noticeable.

Chris

I bought a set of BK CPR plastics as I was placing an order for a FT playfield, the original set was in good shape apart from the yellowing and ended up leaving them on after comparing. At least I have a spare set but doubt I will be fitting them.

I’m going to sound grumpy but you would have thought things these days would be much better quality or very similar. Playfields, plastics, decals just don’t compare

Better than not being available they say……. Rant over

Agreed but remember, manufacturers sometimes used different vendors for the same plastics, playfields, backglasses, etc., and while the CPR set may not match yours, it might be an exact match for someone else's. I bought a repro Sorcerer BG from Planetary a few years ago (not a CPR product though) and was disappointed that the finer black details on my original glass were heavier on the reproduction, thus losing some of the smaller colored details in between. Checking it against the original Sorcerer flyer image, it's an exact match, so there's that at least. Still better the the missing ink on my original.

So I'm having a hard time finding much information on the Black Knight Limited Edition. I'm trying to get replacement drop target decals and since many things are a little special on this game, I need advice. Does anyone know if the LE decals were any different than the standard ones? Mine are totally gone.

Drop stickers are the same. Afaik the apron is different and some of the switches are micros instead of leafs.

Playing my black knight org last weekend and now all of a sudden the start button quit working. Went into test mode and during switch test the start switch doesn't work. Any suggestions on how to get my game playing again.

For starters, take all of the balls out of the troughs, then test the switches that are in the same row and column as the credit button in test mode and see if they all register and are not stuck on.

And to say that a different way, it will not start a game if it can’t detect all 3 balls. Pay attention to where the ball are now (how many in the upper trough, how many in the lower) and make sure those switches are registering closed.

Yeah that's what I was thinking, I did noticed the diode was broken on one of the switches and I solder it back on and the switch is working now in test mode. Is there a possibly that a switch would register but not work because the diode was bad?

My guess would be you're good to go, give it a try.

No it's still not working but all the balls register in the trough area which is weird.

Reseat the connectors between the head and the cabinet a couple times (power off of course)

Also, take all balls out and make sure no trough switches show closed. Put the balls back in one at a time and make sure the switches register one at a time.

Make sure you soldered that diode back in correctly. Post a picture if you are unsure.

If the diode is bad or disconnected, the switch won’t register in switch test or in game.

Did anything else change when this started? Like replacing the batteries, game powering up in audit mode?

Yeah I did that already, I took the balls out and all the switches stopped registering. Put them back in one at a time and they all registered and worked. Fixed the switch is the only thing I did to the game so I am stuck at this point.

Try alligator clipping the two leads on the start button switch to see if they register in switch test.

Good idea. Also, check that it is still on free play.

So is the credit button still not registering in switch test mode?

Didn’t have time this evening I’ll look at it tomorrow.

Question for people who have replaced BK plastics. What did you use to replace the tubular spacers riveted into some of the plastics? I'm not talking about the small rivets on the brackets, those are easy enough, but several plastics have a long tubular spacer that is riveted in. I was thinking of adding a black plastic spacer, but would like to keep things as original looking as possible. I can't find anything at Marco that looks remotely close, but not sure exactly what the name of the part is. Thanks for the help!

You can remove the originals using a soldering iron inserted in the ”bell” from the top. The iron will heat up the bell allowing it to push out.

Then I used a smooth pliers to crimp the flair in the top of the bell (that was in the old plastic) back to round so it can be inserted in the new plastic.

Thank you Schwaggs and SteelTigers great solution and it should also be easy enough to save the originals if I am careful with the heat.

I stuck a small screwdriver inside the top edge when the spacer was in the new plastic and with a circular motion was able to roll the edge enough for the spacer to stay in the plastic.