Oh hey AMBoggs I just posted where my Black Knight looks similar but novus 1 isn't cutting it. What did you use to clean the dirt up?

I’ve used magic eraser (melamine) and rubbing alcohol, or mist’n’shine you can clean the swirls, but they will never go away unless you clean them perfectly and then clear coat .

I’ve also used sprayway glass cleaner and magic eraser

Be very cautious

If you rub too much or too hard you will remove paint, then have to touch up

Doing any of the above will remove most of the clear that is over the paint.

Finish by cleaning with naphtha, then wax.

Good luck, I hated this part of black knight , nothing ever turned out perfect

Nope, that's stock

That's ball swirls. Novus 2 won't take it off either. New games of this era I get I do a pass of novus 2, novus 1 and then your wax of choice. You can reduce the swirls by using magic eraser with a wetting agent, but you are removing whatever clearcoat is left on the PF. I don't do this unless I plan on clearing the PF.

For my BK it got a CPR PF from long ago and it's been fine since then. Ball swirls are pretty expected with this title because of the lighter artwork.

Thats interesting. I may mod the MPU to take a 2732, but this is something to consider. I have 2732's on the way.

https://store.go4retro.com/23xx-adapter/

I'm exploring this adapter board to be able to stick 27128-27256-27512 chips in to replace 2532/2732, etc. - mostly because my 2732's are getting stubborn to program now. I'm thinking possibly that's caused by my computers' USB port more than anything though (I have multiples of the burner and they all started doing it at once....)

Might be a nice solution for those that don't want to rejumper. I can't rejumper my system 7 games because I need the 3x2532 setup ala hyperball for larger roms.

Ah, I've heard of ball swirls but I guess I've never actually seen them. I'll just leave it alone then, I'm not looking to remove and restore the clear. Thanks.

Have this nos BK lower playfiled only if anyone is interested. available for pickup at Pinball Expo. 650 obo
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Hey everyone, I'm looking to swap my lower flipper mechs to fliptronics style, but will keep using same style coil.
The prebuilt kit from pinball life has the coil all installed but what I'm not sure about is the re-soldering of the wires. If I look at a pic from Vid's guide it calls out the diode orientation.

I realize the prebuilt mech will most likely have the coil rotated so the lugs are away from the stop - So my question is, on the existing original coils - are the 28v lines the side of the coil with the silver band?

If so I just would need to ensure that I get this right and do the same thing on the new ones, then work my way back (middle wires would be the same orientation and the last outside lug as well)

Thanks

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That’s right! 28v positive supply is always towards the banded side of the diode. There may be 2 identical looking wires on that side. Just move them both to that lug on the new coil.

Thanks for confirming!
I'm just trying to avoid accidentally hooking the 28v to the wrong lug, as I understand if that happened - I'd lose some transistors at best?

Not on Black Knight, no transistors in the flipper circuit. If done wrong, all you would do is instantly blow the flipper fuse (assuming it’s not over fused).

If you connect a controlled coil (sling, pop bumper, etc) up wrong, you would probably blow the driver transistor and the solenoid fuse.

Hello fellow BK owners! I’ve had my BK for almost 2 years now and have a problem that popped up. When first getting a multiball the lights flash on and off, including all the back box and all other background lighting. Recently instead of flashing the background lights would stay off until after the multiball session was over. Then they stayed off a little longer than the multiball session, then stayed off all the time which is where I am now. All other lights work, just the background lighting stays off. Tried resetting the power and checked fuses to no avail. Then started looking into the boards and schematics and then remembered the previous owner installed a Main/Driver combo board which is the Rottendog MPU327-1. Did some digging on pinside and realized this board has issues with the BK and is no longer supported for the System 7. So, now I realize I may have a bigger problem than a bad component. It seems the preferred MPU/Driver is the Kohout Enterprises System 3-7 Replacement board which runs $425 when it becomes avail again. I prefer to not drop that kind of $$, but if it’ll solve this and other future headaches, it may be worth it. So, I’d like to ask some advice; do I keep troubleshooting the no longer supported Rottendog, do I wait for the Kohout and hurt the wallet, or are there any other options?
Finally, the way it was acting tells me it’s either a software issue or possibly a bad component on the board. I do not think it’s a wiring issue, although I’ll probably check that just to be sure.
I appreciate any ideas, suggestions, etc in advance. Thanks!

I don’t have the schematic in front of me, but I think there’s a relay in the circuit that does the on/off. From what you describe sounds like the relay has gone bad or the contacts in the relay have gone bad.

I think the relay is an “ice cube” type, and is located in the back box.

Thanks, I thought it could be a relay as well, and I just double checked and the only two relays I see are a K1 on the Rottendog MPU and a K1 on the Rottendog Power Supply. I tapped on both to see if they’d kick the lights on by chance but no go. I don’t see any stand alone relays though.

Hey all,

I'm guessing this is something fellow owners have run into here on this pin.

Recently it seems the game is having a hard time recognizing drains. Initial trough switch seems good as it kicks the ball right, other miscroswitches register fine in switch diag test. The balls were new a week ago and i'm not using magna saves too much but wondering if its a magnetization issue. These were carbon balls, nothing fancy.

I'll take a look later under the hood to check as well, just figured someone has encountered similar issues.

Make sure to check the ball lock switches on the upper playfield as well. A problem with those can also cause the game not to start or cause ball detection issues.

Make sure the outhole switch is adjusted properly too. The ball may not be pushing it completely closed sometimes.

Also check the wiring and diode to the switch and make sure everything's firmly connected. A light tug on the wires and diode legs can help reveal a weak connection.

Have the general illumination connectors been re-pinned? Did you pull the fuses and test them with a meter?

If you're looking at a project to buy now, have you noticed anything blatantly damaged or missing?

Backglass and plastics can be gotten from CPR. Drop targets, most playfield parts from Marcos and other sources. CPR used to have playfields but they're out of stock now....be willing to bet they'll make another run in the future. In the meantime, Micro still has playfields I think. Another playfield option is Outside Edge's hardtop - applies right over your existing playfield and make it look (and play) like new. Reese Rails makes beautiful looking rails for BK if yours are old and ratty (like most originals are).

Magna-Save assemblies, if you need them, might be hard to come by from the regular shops but I see them pop up on pinside parts once in a while. Same for power transformers.

If there are issues with any of the boards and they can't be repaired, there are clone options out there (expensive) so unless it's totally acid damaged, it's usually best to stick with the originals and have them professionally repaired/updated if that's out of your wheelhouse.

Fuses, confirmed good with meter. Previous owner repinned connectors. Keep the ideas coming

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What is this thing? Found in the cabinet of a Black Knight I recently acquired. Nothing is missing as far as I can tell and I'm stumped.

Credit button.

So I've replaced my flipper mechs (including the coils, sleeves, EOS switches)
New flipper switches in the cabinet

All connections appear to be good on the boards, gapping of switches, and I also cleaned the contacts with alcohol/cardboard.

I notice that if I cradle the ball or do a full press of the right flipper button, I can never make the left ramp unless there is already momentum.
I've also read this shot basically needs to be perfect given the spinner and the post/rubber and that makes sense, but I also notice if I do essentially a "light" or "half" press of the flipper button, I get a ton more power and can make the ramp with ease.
Game is at 6 degrees pitch.

I'm so used to more modern games, if this is how it's supposed to be then so be it, just wanted to confirm.

It is supposed to be a tough shot from a cradle, but you're getting more power on the half flip because the EOS isn't opening, so double check that it's opening about 1/8" or so at the end of its stroke, not starting earlier.

No 80s flipper is going to feel like the more modern ones, you've only got 28v to work with and a relatively long stroke. I played zacaj 's black knight with 50volt going to the flippers and I didn't really notice a difference, but I only played a couple of games. I should probably fool around with my BK and see how it performs I guess I never really thought about that too much. It doesn't help I'm really used to the way my BK plays since I've had it since 1989. Maybe time for a fresh look.

Agree with all of this. Flipper power is massivly impacted by the EOS gap. Tune it to open at the last 1/16 of an inch. When you adjust them this tight, make sure you are pushing the pawl into the coil stop and not the flipper bat or the crank. Slop in those parts can change the EOS adjustment and when this tight, you want to make sure the EOS is still opening.

So I have it a bit better, eos was fine but it seems to be partially due to the cabinet flipper switch. If I bend the outmost blades to take out the upper flippers completely the flipper is very strong and can make the ramp every time. Obviously I can’t leave it this way so I’ve gapped them in a way that the second set of contacts just makes contact at the very end of the push. It’s not perfect but I wonder if this helps diagnose it further.

Out of curiosity, do you have the original power supply board installed, or an aftermarket?

All original boards, have been gone through though. I haven’t actually pulled them out to inspect cold joints etc but they have new caps, connectors including the 40 pin. I also did the rectifier fuses but that didn’t impact the issue. Power supply is in the cabinet.

In that case, you may want to try replacing the header pins for the solenoid/flipper power connector on the power supply (3J3), in addition to it's female connector. (Though it looks like you might have already covered that)

I've seen a notable difference on my BK flipper power since replacing that connector. The pins for the flipper power (pins 4+5) were a bit dull compared to the other pins. You may also want to re-pin the flipper ground connector on the driver board (male and female sides) at 2J12. (Not sure if that one's been replaced on your game yet)

May also want to try new cabinet switches if all else checks out.

Speaking of flippers… I was just in a multiball cradling one in my right flipper for a while… and then it started smoking. I killed the game and found the coil burnt and the flipper is stuck in place halfway flipped (cannot manually move it up or down with glass off). Not a good feeling seeing and smelling smoke in your baby. What could have caused this?

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My guess would be that the EOS switch didn't open, keeping the low-resistance winding of the coil activated for much longer than it should. That would def burn a coil.

Had you done any work on the flippers recently? I've gotten in the habit after doing a flipper rebuild, play a few games and then re-check the EOS gap and also make sure it's tightly mounted to the bracket etc.

I figured out why my general lighting isn’t working. I found J86 to be nice and toasty as you can see in the pic (back side is overdone as well). I can’t even disconnect it because the connector is welded together. Now, per the Rdog drawing it looks like I should be able to connect the yellow wires coming from the main transformer 17&19 to the Rdog PS connector CN9X4 pins 2&3 after I get the proper molex connector (tips on part number appreciated). Now, in the OG PS, there was a 20A fuse in line with this circuit, but the Rdog does not have this particular circuit protection in its PS. I wonder why that is? So, if anyone reading this can confirm I could move the two main transformer wires to CN9X4, I would very much appreciate it! Also, is this a common problem with BK and Rdog Pwr Supp?

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Dang, that must've been it. Last week I did try to adjust the EOS switch (no prior experience doing so), since the flipper was seemingly a bit weak. I made sure the EOS was still opening during the adjustment, but I assume with time and gameplay, the EOS gap did not stay true.

Thanks for the insight. I'll have to be more diligent on those adjustments in the future.

Unfortunately this is how we learn sometimes. I went through a very similar experience myself years ago

A new coil and a properly adjusted Eos and you'll hopefully be good to go. Have you already rebuilt the flippers? If not, this would probably be the right time to consider doing them (even just the lower flippers)...

Did you find adjusting the Eos made a notable increase in flipper power before the coil fried?

Does anyone have any ideas how much that Black Knight LP/record should sell for ? MSRP or is it highly desired? Thanks

That what now?

Wrong Black Knight thread I think.

Yeah--that made me do a double-take too!

Looks like it's a special vinyl for Black Knight: sword of rage--

https://littleshopofgames.com/shop/shirts-hats/black-knight-sword-of-rage-fire-edition-lp-vinyl-record-album-scott-ian-anthrax-883-5002-00/

There was unfortunately no noticeable increase in flipper power after the adjustment, so was planning to do a flipper rebuild anyway. Unfortunately now it will be a little more work, and money, since I'll need a new coil as well.

Noticed today my entire lamp matrix is out. No Insert lighting works anywhere on the game. All GI is working fine.
I wasn't doing anything under the playfield recently that would have triggered this, and was playing last night with no issues.

I've done the following so far:

* Checked the F3 8A fuse and connector (connector wasn't loose) even replaced with a new fuse
* Reseated all the connectors on all boards in the backbox - No difference (I do notice that the two pin GI In connector gets really hot and isnt as tight as it could be - no doubt thanks to the game being all incandescent)
* Checked for any obvious loose connections/diodes on Insert bulb sockets
* Lamp diag doesn't have any effect, it's all dark
* I don't see any obvious transistor damage
* Cursory inspection of the ICs/Transistors look good in terms of soldering (no obvious cold joints)

I do have a multimeter, but not really sure where to begin on this.

Start by measuring the voltage across the large capacitor in the back box. That filters the lamp matrix supply. You should see 16 VDC+ there.

When you say entire lamp matrix, are you talking all lighting or just general (white) lighting?

Everything GI Including backbox is working - all inserts and controlled lamps are not.
The GI relay works as in attract mode it can turn off/on all GI.

Thanks, I just want to clarify - we aren't talking about the large cap that is standing in the backbox?
This would be a large cap on the power supply board?

Also just because I don't want to make things worse, I can check this with the power on in the game by putting black lead of the MM to ground/wingnut and measure either lead of the cap or should I be measuring by keeping each MM lead on one leg of the cap.

One other thing, and this could be a red herring but I notice that my upper right drop target assembly - all 3 drops fail switch tests (maybe I bashed them too hard playing and something shorted there)

Yep, he means that large cap standing in the backbox - that's the lamp matrix cap.

10-4. I was wondering if you were having the same issue as I have. Looks like you are in good hands with Schwaggs and @slochar.

Thanks,
I just want to make sure on the best way to measure it. I also noticed that the large cap at C10 looks like the top is bulging off so I might as well order a cap kit for the PS as well.

Not a bad idea to recap and replace the header pins on the power supply board. Take a close look at J1 and J2 as well. Those are where ground and power are brought in to the power board. Check if those pins are loose or burned and replace both sides, as needed.

The lamp matrix supply only passes through the fuse and these connectors. None of the caps or regulators on the power board are for the lamp matrix.

Appreciate the help everyone - just seems odd that every lamp is out, so hoping it's not transistor or IC related yet...

I'm going to pull the PS board and check the connectors, reflow if anything looks off.

As for measuring that cap to get the 16v - all I should need to do is
Power on machine
put black lead to common ground
red lead to + side of cap

Does that sound right?