(Topic ID: 54503)

Black Knight Club...Members Only!


By mof

5 years ago



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  • Latest reply 1 day ago by Andy_B
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There are 1889 posts in this topic. You are on page 5 of 38.
#201 4 years ago
Quoted from Toyguy:

I bought a Mayfair for mine and I will say this - it's a beautiful thing.

Tony Ramunni's work on that backglass towers above anything else in my gameroom, including Fathom. It really is a work of art.

#202 4 years ago

You can disregard my earlier post asking for some playtesting. I ended up swapping my Williams driver back in and it behaves the exact same way. I guess I just never paid it any attention. The Kohout is working fine, and I love having the diagnostic LEDs in case of a problem down the road.

#203 4 years ago

I spent 2 hours last night adjusting the 4 switches under the apron (3 trough switches, and the one for the kicker). This was AFTER upgrading 2 of the switches to microswitches. I had to bend the actuator a little and adjust the "sled" assembly back and forth to get it just right. And then of the course one of the leaf switch stacks was assembled wrong, so I had to pull it out to fix it. I tried to figure out how to replace it with a microswitch, but decided that would be too hard.

I just pray that my switch-repair days are finally over for BK. What a pain!

#204 4 years ago

LOL - having spent the last week or so fiddling with my new EM machine, I can relate. Those switches seem to have a mind of their own.

#205 4 years ago

anyone have an extra set of working displays kicking around? before i pull the trigger and get a new set I figured I'd check with you guys first

#206 4 years ago

I don't have displays, but I have a new Rottendog power board and a new Kohout sound/voice board combo if anyone is looking.

#207 4 years ago
Quoted from Black_Knight:

I don't have displays, but I have a new Rottendog power board and a new Kohout sound/voice board combo if anyone is looking.

I'll keep that in mind as I star to re-assemble this disaster. I'll PM you

1 week later
#208 4 years ago

Just about finished taking the top of the play field apart, lightly dusted the PF and flakes started coming off, what can I do to clean if the paint is going to come off like this?

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#209 4 years ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

Just about finished taking the top of the play field apart, lightly dusted the PF and flakes started coming off, what can I do to clean if the paint is going to come off like this?

I had a BK with similar marks... Sorry to see that. I had assumed it came off from the previous owner pulling mylar... =(
-mof

#210 4 years ago
Quoted from rcbrown316:

I'll keep that in mind as I star to re-assemble this disaster. I'll PM you

Got frankenstein-knight put together on sunday with power and solenoid boards off ebay. Did some basic boardwork etc. and I gotta say I was pretty pleased when it fired right up! It's in attract mode and the black knight sounds like Herman Munster laughing just after choking on a large bong-hit. Got the rottendog displays in today. They all work (after removing the keys on the old ribbon connectors). Nows where i begin to discover deeper problems. First one being scrolling numbers in audit/adjust mode. I need to spend more time with the manual open but I'm happy i now have a good starting point. These are all before pictures except for the last one which is after i got it cleaned up ( 6 hours worth) and semi-operational. What I cleaned off/out-of this thing was pretty gross. Sorry for the sideways pics.

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#211 4 years ago
Quoted from rcbrown316:

It's in attract mode and the black knight sounds like Herman Munster laughing just after choking on a large bong-hit.

Nice.
-mof

#212 4 years ago

Hello, I am working on a BK and I can not find any pictures of how the magnet relays are wired. The one I am working on looks wrong and one of the switches is not even connected. Can somebody please take a picture of a correctly wired magnet relay? Thank you!!
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#213 4 years ago

Not sure why there is a capacitor on yours.
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#214 4 years ago

Maybe this is better.
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#215 4 years ago

Thank you LEE! that is perfect. Ya I have no Idea why that capacitor was on there either. The flipper EOS had the same capacitor attached... going to remove those as well.

Thanks again!

#216 4 years ago
Quoted from DragonPin:

Thank you LEE! that is perfect. Ya I have no Idea why that capacitor was on there either. The flipper EOS had the same capacitor attached... going to remove those as well.
Thanks again!

I think the capacitor is on the EOS to prevent sparking. Could be the same reason they added it to that stack as well.

Chris

#217 4 years ago

EDITED: first challenge was too damned hard!

Hello fellow BK lovers...here's a weekend challenge for you: play 5 games on 3 ball, and hit the turnaround as many times as you can. Ignore the points and all the other goals; this is ALL about making and surviving the turnaround. Example: you get up to 3X, 2X and 4X on balls 1, 2 and 3. Your score for that game is 6, because you hit the turnaround 6 times.

HINT: set up and use your Magnasaves, and don't forget to lock on ball 3 to light "Last Chance"!!

[WAS: light "5X" as many times as you can. Ignore the points and all the other goals; this is ALL about surviving the turnaround. A perfect score is 15/15 (unless you get extra balls in the process!). Make sure your multipliers reset at the start of each ball.]

I'm starting now, and I'm on my 3rd beer - usually perfect for precision play.

Post edited by swampfire: Scored 0/15 on my own challenge

#218 4 years ago

I'm in! What might be simpler though is to just count up the number of Xs - in your example, you would have scored 9. That way you don't have to figure out the number of turns, it just happens indirectly.

Easy enough to do wither way though, and a great idea!

#219 4 years ago

So, fellow club members, what do you all have in the bottom of your cabinets for speakers? I want to replace my original one with a more modern one in search of better frequency response and a bit cleaner sound. I'm pretty sure mine has a 4 ohm unit in it, but the Parts Catalog out at Planetary Pinball says it's an 8 ohm. Just curious what others have. And if you replaced yours, I'd be interested in what you used and what you think of your choice.

Dave

#220 4 years ago
Quoted from Toyguy:

I'm in! What might be simpler though is to just count up the number of Xs - in your example, you would have scored 9. That way you don't have to figure out the number of turns, it just happens indirectly.
Easy enough to do wither way though, and a great idea!

Right, you can just count X's and subtract 3 from the total for each game. Good idea.

I also want to hear about your experiences with the turnaround. If I hit mine perfectly with the right flipper, it flies through it clockwise and lands in the left inlane almost every time. But if I miss and it goes through counter-clockwise, the ball goes SDTM. Brilliant design by Mr. Ritchie. I can sometimes hit it with the left flipper, but it's usually clatter-drain when I try it from there.

#221 4 years ago

I'll answer back later with the gory details but for me, it's the other way usually. If I turnaround clockwise with any kind of speed, it heads right for the left outlane. Counterclockwise usually comes to the left flipper but can, on occasion, go right down the middle on a fast ball.

#222 4 years ago

Now I wonder if I installed the metal part in the center of the turnaround backwards. I remember before doing the playfield swap, I could sometimes get 2 switch hits on one go-around (CCW of course). I haven't seen that in a long time.

#223 4 years ago

Well, pretty lame actually, but par for the course. Only 8 times through in total. I have learned that I cannot hit that shot on demand from either flipper. Most of them were sheer luck, often during multiball. No extra balls were earned either. Sad....

#224 4 years ago

No, you know what's sad? I had a game last night where I hit 1.2M on ball one, then choked on balls 2 and 3. I ended at around 1.4M.

#225 4 years ago

LOL - me and a couple co-workers have started having Weds pinball lunch hours. One of the guys is just learning pinball, let alone BK, and had a high score of some 400,000. On his first ball, he got to about 800K then did the same thing - tanked balls 2 and 3. He was still psyched though.

#226 4 years ago

OK, my score is pretty lousy: 1+4+4+1+3 = 13 turnarounds in 5 games.

Quoted from swampfire:

Hello fellow BK lovers...here's a weekend challenge for you: play 5 games on 3 ball, and hit the turnaround as many times as you can. Ignore the points and all the other goals; this is ALL about making and surviving the turnaround. Example: you get up to 3X, 2X and 4X on balls 1, 2 and 3. Your score for that game is 6, because you hit the turnaround 6 times.

#227 4 years ago
Quoted from Toyguy:

So, fellow club members, what do you all have in the bottom of your cabinets for speakers?

I'm pretty sure mine is 4 ohms; it sounds great. I also replaced the volume pot, which made a difference.

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#228 4 years ago

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Hey everyone here is the BK I just finished a PF restore on, turned out great considering how trashed it was before starting BUT... the machine is not working It was not working prior to the restore as well.

Whats happening is when I turn it on CPU flashes and then goes blank, usually followed by a buzzing sound. GI comes on but no feature lights.
The troubling thing is that occasionally the displays and the feature lights start in attract but only for a brief second before it goes blank, buzzes randomly fires coils and blows the two 3 amp fuses.

My gut tells me its something on the MPU but I honestly am at my wits end and cant figure this one out.
Anybody out there have a BK that had problems booting and can give me some advice?

Thanks!

#229 4 years ago

There's things that must be done to early Williams solid state pins before they will ever run reliably.
Start here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-bulletproofing-williams-system-6

#230 4 years ago

In my experience, most early SS problems are connector related. Rebuilding connectors is boring, but it gives you a foundation to work from.

#231 4 years ago

Thought this might be the best place to bug about finding L4 EPROMS. I've only got L2.

Side note... has anyone figured out how to adjust the drop target leaf springs without pulling the assembly? I have one that when hit hard - won't drop but does with brushed. I figure the spring is relaxed and it jams when hit fast.

#232 4 years ago
Quoted from NightFlight73:

I have one that when hit hard - won't drop but does with brushed.

This usually has less to do with spring tension than with the drop hitting off of either the rubber or the playfield behind it and bouncing back to the resting position before it can drop.

One size down on the rubber or loosening and trying to re-align the drop target assembly will probably solve this better than trying to increase the spring tension.

#233 4 years ago

New rubber may make a non-dropping target worse but I did find on mine that replacing all of the small tension springs fixed all of my issues. The leaf seems to rarely need any maintenance. In my case, after who knows how many years, the coil springs were clearly stretched beyond the new ones. Marco has them and they are cheap.

#234 4 years ago

Almost forgot, if you look at one of the drop target mechanisms, on the side away from the targets themselves, you will see formed in the mechanism's casing plate 3 small fingers. Look closely at the upper end of those and you should see the loop end of the tension spring around that finger.

For testing, you can grab that loop with some tweezers (I use the lockable type) and pull a couple of extra coils down over the finger, effectively shortening and tightening the spring. If this resolves your issue, you'll want to replace the springs with the new ones from Marco.

#235 4 years ago

I cleaned the leafs well and added 1 drop of synthetic lube to each (at the point of friction). This made a huge difference in how easily the drops went down.

1 week later
#236 4 years ago

I'm in the club, always played and love the Knight, back when he first came out. Loads of work to do, but one big issue I'm having, once I lock ball number three, they don't eject for multiball. Sounds like the game is searching for a ball. Any ideas? Thanks, and can't wait to rip into this!~SpOoKy

#237 4 years ago

One or more of the ball lock trough switches needs attention. Common problem. Williams even made an upgrade for the ball lock switches to have them be micro-switches instead of blade contacts.

#238 4 years ago

Thanks Lee! I'll replace them and go from there. ~SpOoKy

#239 4 years ago
Quoted from SpOoKyRiDeS:

Thanks Lee! I'll replace them and go from there. ~Spooky

While you're at it, may as well do the switches in the trough under the apron as these will drive you nuts also. Almost all of these leaf switches were assembled wrong with one blade upside down. You can disassemble them and flip the blade, but by now the other contact has been beat by the rough backside of that flipped blade and the gold plating is ruined.

#240 4 years ago
Quoted from mof:

I think LEDs really help this game under the old inserts. It's a very primary color game, and the LEDs work well with games that are designed that way.
-mof

Hi MOF, I've been thinking about this. Which LEDs do you recommend?

#241 4 years ago

I used mostly Cointakers on mine and have no complaints. I used frosted whites where they were hidden, like in the backbox and their warm white retros where they were visible as that retains much of the traditional look. I used the premium non-ghosting in most of the controlled lamps, matching the color to the insert. That made a huge difference as the inserts were well faded after 34 years. On some of the really big inserts I ended up using some of their larger LEDs to get a decent brightness level. All in all, I'm really pleased with it and the load on the power supply and emitted heat will be way down which to my mind is a very good thing.

I also did the trick in the backbox of replacing the bulbs behind the blue are in the top center with frosted blue LEDs. That really makes the artwork pop. I also am still experimenting with some brighter LEDs for the game text lights and the player number lights to try and make them stand out a bit more.

The only place I used a different light, this one a Comet RGB changer, was in the bonus turnaround. I just liked the effect and that it attracts the eye a bit and reminds me that the bonus shot is there.

Here are a few pics. Note the bright colors of the lower playfield inserts even with the room lights on. And yes, the Mayfair repro backglass is worth every penny!

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#242 4 years ago

I'm liking that BG look! Nice.~SpOoKy

#243 4 years ago
Quoted from SpOoKyRiDeS:

I'm in the club, always played and love the Knight, back when he first came out. Loads of work to do, but one big issue I'm having, once I lock ball number three, they don't eject for multiball. Sounds like the game is searching for a ball. Any ideas? Thanks, and can't wait to rip into this!~Spooky

Quoted from SpOoKyRiDeS:

Thanks Lee! I'll replace them and go from there. ~Spooky

I put these in my lock trough and my ball trough;

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/B-8644

#244 4 years ago
Quoted from Boise_D:

Which LEDs do you recommend?

Like Toyguy, I used Cointakers in my BK's. Color matched Premiums in the inserts. Frosted in the GI, except I kept regular bulbs under the slings and inlanes to combat the strobe effect.
Did a little more color matching in the backglass. Blues, yellow, oranges, reds.

DSCN0375.JPG

#245 4 years ago

I went with super bites under the inserts, a little over kill, frosted & clear cool white GI, frosted WW in BB,

#246 4 years ago
Quoted from Toyguy:

Almost forgot, if you look at one of the drop target mechanisms, on the side away from the targets themselves, you will see formed in the mechanism's casing plate 3 small fingers. Look closely at the upper end of those and you should see the loop end of the tension spring around that finger.
For testing, you can grab that loop with some tweezers (I use the lockable type) and pull a couple of extra coils down over the finger, effectively shortening and tightening the spring. If this resolves your issue, you'll want to replace the springs with the new ones from Marco.

I'll try that once I have it up and working again. I think I blew my MPU board replacing the solenoid (F2) with a 5A... which what was in there - without consulting the chart. Long story short I have a replacement Kohout on the way, said they're shipping tomorrow. Then I might still have a solenoid issue somewhere.

I have the cointakers LED Kit in mine. It was missing a couple blue and I used a red in the bonus turnaround.

Marco is a great supplier if you live in the US. The shipping is simply unrealistic if you are shipping to Canada. I ordered the LED Contaker kit and a new shooter rod and springs. It cost me 49.26USD to ship it in a reasonable time. Here were my options:

Canada Post Express 1-2 Weeks: $40.26 USD
USPS Priority 2-4 Weeks: $47.10 USD
Economy Air 4-5 Days: $49.35 USD
Express Air 2-3 Days: $64.68 USD

Most other retailers charge around half that for international orders, so I have to say on that point I'm done with Marco. Its a shame, they have everything.

#247 4 years ago

Straight up incandescent GI for me, but with blue frosted LEDs for the blue inserts. I think red games call for extra discretion with LEDs in the GI.

#248 4 years ago

Methinks I have a Power Supply problem

Here is a craptastic one handed cell phone video. When I hit both flippers, the machine resets. Sometimes right away, or, as in this vodeo, after a few flips.

Can someone confirm a power supply issue? It is the original PS board, but the caps were redone a while back.

Any other ideas if not the PS?

Thanks
Chris

#249 4 years ago

Go into test mode, see if you can replicate. Or even better, go into switch test mode and do the same, as your flippers are active in that mode. Could be slam tilting, which in system 7 does a complete CPU reboot, no warning and no excuses.

If that's the case, taping some cardboard between the switch leaves on your coin door would also rule it out.

-Hans

#250 4 years ago

Its it normal on a BK that the inserts are a hair lower than the clear coat? Going to hazard a no.

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