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(Topic ID: 54503)

Black Knight Club...Members Only!


By mof

7 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 2,292 posts
  • 212 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 35 days ago by dzorbas
  • Topic is favorited by 106 Pinsiders

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There are 2292 posts in this topic. You are on page 41 of 46.
#2001 1 year ago

Thanks! The area you are referring to is for reference. I use inkspace, and these items are on a unique layer which I make invisible when sending the file to the printer. I intend to make this artwork available to the forum members once I have completed a successful print and installation.

#2002 1 year ago
Quoted from Michel_K17:

Thanks! The area you are referring to is for reference. I use inkspace, and these items are on a unique layer which I make invisible when sending the file to the printer. I intend to make this artwork available to the forum members once I have completed a successful print and installation.

That would be awesome of you! I for one am very interested.

I have a basket case BK that someone disassembled, trying to do a playfield swap and cabinet repaint. The paint job is not as good as I want so I was going to re-paint it but installing decals would be even better!

#2003 1 year ago

Completed the front artwork (original and modified), and going to the printers tomorrow.

schwaggs You bet: happy to help. Will post the files soon.

Modified - BK Front Art (resized).pngOriginal - BK Front Art (resized).png
#2004 1 year ago

what size bolts are needed to attach the cabinet to the headbox?

#2005 1 year ago
Quoted from PopBumperPete:

what size bolts are needed to attach the cabinet to the headbox?

Any hardware store should have them - 3/8-16 x 2" or 2-1/2"

Bolt:

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/4322-01113-40

Washer:

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/4700-00095-00

#2006 1 year ago

I’d like to replace the GI connectors and header. Can anyone point me to the right header? Is that just 2 pins?

#2007 1 year ago
Quoted from Boise_D:

I’d like to replace the GI connectors and header. Can anyone point me to the right header? Is that just 2 pins?

The one on the power supply board?

Board side with pins:
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=15-31-1026

Wire side housing:
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=19-09-1029

Pins for wire side housing:
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=02-09-1104

#2008 1 year ago

Unless you've converted a LOT of your GI lights to LED, you don't want to replace the original connectors for the GI on the power supply with identical stuff. They're badly over-loaded already. There's a reason that EVERY system 7 game has that connector burned/bypassed/hacked, etc.... When I tried replacing it on mine, way back when, the new one failed in less than an hour.

Better choice would be to convert it over to the style of connector they used in the early System 11 machines, unfortunately I don't have any of the part numbers on that.

That and you really need to run LED's in as much of the GI lights as possible to reduce the power load on the connector.

#2009 1 year ago

Thank you schwaggs that’s what I needed. I have put all LEDs in, but I’d still consider a switch to the system 11 type. Anyone have those links? I’ve got several system 11 games. I’ll go look

#2010 1 year ago

Any idea why the previous owner jumpered the left and right switch grounds?

These two wires are connected to the driver board at 2J12-1 and 2J12-2.

Thx.

Jumpered Lt & Rt Sw Grounds (resized).jpg
#2011 1 year ago

Maybe to make better contact to ground?
Maybe one wire has a male or female connector bad on the intermediate
connectors in the back box?

#2012 1 year ago

Hi vec-tor,

Thank you for your reply. Here are some answers:

1. Maybe to make better contact to ground?
- Although I saw someone refer them to as a "ground", they are in-fact independent of one another, and not connected to the main ground. They are more like a "return" line perhaps?

2. Maybe one wire has a male or female connector bad on the intermediate connectors in the back box?
- Good thinking. I used my multi-meter to do a continuity check of each wire through the connectors, all the way to the 2J12-1 and 2J12-2 pins on the board, and both wires are good.

Maybe the issue is that the flipper relay is broken?

Is this flipper replay generally considered to be reliable?

After more searching, I also found this thread where the topic of bypassing these pins is discussed:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/system-7-black-knight-flipper-problem#post-4070915
Mod from previous owner (resized).png

#2013 1 year ago
Quoted from Michel_K17:

Hi vec-tor,
Thank you for your reply. Here are some answers:
1. Maybe to make better contact to ground?
- Although I saw someone refer them to as a "ground", they are in-fact independent of one another, and not connected to the main ground. They are more like a "return" line perhaps?

Those wires do indeed go to "main" ground. They traverse the relay which is used to disable the flippers when not in a game. From there, they use the "lamp and solenoid" ground on the driver board which is tied back to the power board which has all grounds tied together.

That mod could have been used to work around a bad set of contacts on the relay or a bad connection in the wiring/connectors from the flippers to the driver board.

#2014 1 year ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

hich is tied back to the power board which has all grounds tied together.

That mod could have been used to work around a bad set of contacts on the relay or a bad connection in the wiring/connectors from the flippers to the driver board.

Thanks Schwaggs for the explanation. That helps. Will return the wiring to original, and investigate/fix root cause.

#2015 1 year ago

I have a newly acquired Black Knight project. It has an errant wire on the harness, and I was wondering if I could get a reference photo or guidance to which pin it needs to connect to in order to function.

The purple with gray wire in the display (Strobe 16?) is in correctly attached in position 5 on the display connector (photo pointing to the wire.) On my project, that wire is just loose and not connected to any pin on the CPU. Can someone shoot me a reference photo of where the purple with gray wireshould attach to on the CPU board?

I haven't done much on these older machines. So, I am excited to learn from all of the people in the thread.

It's also doing this, but that could be related.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/black-knight-sound-question

purple gray (resized).jpgdisplay (resized).jpg
#2016 1 year ago

Try this doc from the old firepower.com site. It is a system 6 board but the connections to the display didn't change.

CPUBoard.pdf
#2017 1 year ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

Try this doc from the old firepower.com site. It is a system 6 board but the connections to the display didn't change.[quoted image]

Thanks. That color coding and the ability to zoom makes all the difference.

#2018 1 year ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

That would be awesome of you! I for one am very interested.
I have a basket case BK that someone disassembled, trying to do a playfield swap and cabinet repaint. The paint job is not as good as I want so I was going to re-paint it but installing decals would be even better!

Printers had to reprint the vinyls because:
1. One image did not transfer properly from the PDF (they admitted that they had to fix it); and
2. The vinyl was super-glossy even though I had asked for an egg shell Sheen

My Lessons Learned in regards to the printing & application process:

1. Make sure that you ask for a top clear layer on top of the vinyl print - it makes the vinyl thicker and protects the print from scratches

2. Ask for scrap pieces of vinyl from the print shop. It was nice to be able to practice without the stress of ruining the final print!

3. Get a roller! Even the "soft" applicator the vinyl print shop gave me tended to make scratches. I put some velcro on one side of the applicator, and even then it was not foolproof.

4. Wet vs dry. Material was 3M Controltac for which I paid more ($284 before taxes), but I was told that it the longevity is much better. This material has channels to allow the air to exit ("air egress" feature). However, no matter what I did (with the practice pieces), I would still get the occasional air bubble. The 3M instructions said to avoid the wet method because there is no means for the water to dry if any of it gets trapped, However, the print shop highly recommended the wet method anyway. Since my cabinet had a layer of clear, and it was fairly flat, I went ahead, and used the "wet" method, using a light mist of water (with 2 drops of detergent per liter). Procedure was easy: the roller allowed me to fully push out any trapped water, and after 24 hours, I can attest that the vinyl has adhered to the cabinet very well and it was fully flat with no bubbles. Generally speaking, I used the procedure from Australia shown on youtube here (except I used far less water). Trimming just shy of the corner worked well.

5. I did not need to use an assistant. Separating the film was easy, and I used a trimmed piece of underlay to grab the end, and keep the end stiffso that the corners would not fold.

6. I used the triangles at bottom of each print to align the pieces with the cabinet, and it all lined up well.

7. I did not remove the rails, and simply trimmed around them. Worked well.

8. Total time to apply the vinyl: 5 hours. This excludes removing/re-installing the legs, and playing with the practice pieces of vinyl.

1-20190913_190229 - Copy (resized).jpg2- 20190913_190241 - Copy (resized).jpg3- 20190914_122500 - Copy (resized).jpg4 - 20190914_131922 (resized).jpg5 - 20190914_121512 - Copy (resized).jpg6 - 20190914_122739 - Copy (resized).jpg7 - 20190914_150314 (resized).jpg8 - 20190914_133030 (resized).jpg9 - 20190914_133206 (resized).jpgA - 20190914_133434 (resized).jpgB - 20190914_135540 (resized).jpgC - 20190914_135804 (resized).jpgD - 20190915_083827 (resized).jpgE -20190915_083120 (resized).jpgF - 20190915_094830 - Copy (resized).jpgG - 20190915_083856 - Copy (resized).jpg
#2019 1 year ago

Wow. Very nice job indeed.

#2020 1 year ago

Wow, thanks for the detailed post! That looks great!

#2021 1 year ago
Quoted from Michel_K17:

Printers had to reprint the vinyls because:
1. One image did not transfer properly from the PDF (they admitted that they had to fix it); and
2. The vinyl was super-glossy even though I had asked for an egg shell Sheen
My Lessons Learned in regards to the printing & application process:
1. Make sure that you ask for a top clear layer on top of the vinyl print - it makes the vinyl thicker and protects the print from scratches
2. Ask for scrap pieces of vinyl from the print shop. It was nice to be able to practice without the stress of ruining the final print!
3. Get a roller! Even the "soft" applicator the vinyl print shop gave me tended to make scratches. I put some velcro on one side of the applicator, and even then it was not foolproof.
4. Wet vs dry. Material was 3M Controltac for which I paid more ($284 before taxes), but I was told that it the longevity is much better. This material has channels to allow the air to exit ("air egress" feature). However, no matter what I did (with the practice pieces), I would still get the occasional air bubble. The 3M instructions said to avoid the wet method because there is no means for the water to dry if any of it gets trapped, However, the print shop highly recommended the wet method anyway. Since my cabinet had a layer of clear, and it was fairly flat, I went ahead, and used the "wet" method, using a light mist of water (with 2 drops of detergent per liter). Procedure was easy: the roller allowed me to fully push out any trapped water, and after 24 hours, I can attest that the vinyl has adhered to the cabinet very well and it was fully flat with no bubbles. Generally speaking, I used the procedure from Australia shown on youtube here (except I used far less water). Trimming just shy of the corner worked well.

5. I did not need to use an assistant. Separating the film was easy, and I used a trimmed piece of underlay to grab the end, and keep the end stiffso that the corners would not fold.
6. I used the triangles at bottom of each print to align the pieces with the cabinet, and it all lined up well.
7. I did not remove the rails, and simply trimmed around them. Worked well.
8. Total time to apply the vinyl: 5 hours. This excludes removing/re-installing the legs, and playing with the practice pieces of vinyl.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Looks GREAT!

#2022 1 year ago

Hey guys,new to the club but bk is a top ten for me and so happy to have a nice one but.......some fool sealed the bg with spray paint,wayyyyyy to red now,anyway where should i look for a better bg,i put a wanted ad up but wondered being so popular if someone was doing repo's or nos?

#2023 1 year ago
Quoted from Tbpilot78:

Hey guys,new to the club but bk is a top ten for me and so happy to have a nice one but.......some fool sealed the bg with spray paint,wayyyyyy to red now,anyway where should i look for a better bg,i put a wanted ad up but wondered being so popular if someone was doing repo's or nos?

These are nice: https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-backglasses/black-knight/

#2024 1 year ago

Hey thank you,this game deserves a new face ,cashy but i was worried i might lose that mirrored paint,they look perfect,totally worth it

#2025 1 year ago
Quoted from Tbpilot78:

Hey thank you,this game deserves a new face ,cashy but i was worried i might lose that mirrored paint,they look perfect,totally worth it

Mine looks fantastic. CPR did a nice job.

#2026 1 year ago
Quoted from Tbpilot78:

Hey guys,new to the club but bk is a top ten for me and so happy to have a nice one but.......some fool sealed the bg with spray paint,wayyyyyy to red now,anyway where should i look for a better bg,i put a wanted ad up but wondered being so popular if someone was doing repo's or nos?

If you go to a show that Mayfair is at, he typically has a BK backglass or two. They are from the second Williams run in the 90s. I had picked one up at Pintastic, and it looks phenomenal. I believe he also ships if you call too. Picture doesn't do it justice.

20190811_151632 (resized).jpg
#2027 1 year ago
Quoted from epeabs:

If you go to a show that Mayfair is at, he typically has a BK backglass or two. They are from the second Williams run in the 90s. I had picked one up at Pintastic, and it looks phenomenal. I believe he also ships if you call too. Picture doesn't do it justice.[quoted image]

I've got a Mayfair one myself and can vouch for how good it looks. Didn't think he was still selling them, tho!

BK.jpg
#2028 1 year ago
Quoted from epeabs:

If you go to a show that Mayfair is at, he typically has a BK backglass or two. They are from the second Williams run in the 90s. I had picked one up at Pintastic, and it looks phenomenal. I believe he also ships if you call too. Picture doesn't do it justice.[quoted image]

Dang you showoffs ill email mayfair and see but i think cpr one looks pretty good and in stock! Beautiful pins guys

#2029 1 year ago
Quoted from Tbpilot78:

Dang you showoffs ill email mayfair and see but i think cpr one looks pretty good and in stock! Beautiful pins guys

I think they might also give you a deal on plastics if you order them at the same time as a backglass. I think you will at least save on shipping. The CPR guys are great to deal with. I have a Mayfair glass in my Firepower. Looks great as well. I think my CPR glass was a bit cheaper to acquire. You really can't go wrong either way.

#2030 1 year ago
Quoted from dzorbas:

I think they might also give you a deal on plastics if you order them at the same time as a backglass. I think you will at least save on shipping. The CPR guys are great to deal with. I have a Mayfair glass in my Firepower. Looks great as well. I think my CPR glass was a bit cheaper to acquire. You really can't go wrong either way.

Im just glad i gotta couple options cause its black knight not red knight,thanks again everyone who chimed in

#2031 1 year ago

Rottengog MPU327 resets - SOLVED!

I wanted to revisit this topic as several folks had had issues with the Rottendog MPU327 resetting when both flippers are energized at the same time. In my case, I had a completely working machine before adding the MPU327. I was using a Rottendog PS board with all other OEM boards. No issues. When I swapped in the Rottendog MPU, the issue started happening. I checked connectors, voltages, etc. All good.

The issue appeared to be the GND reference between the MPU and PS boards. I added a dedicated wire with U connectors on it from board to board, attaching under a mounting screw on each board. It has been bullet proof for the last 2 years. I did pass this along to Jim to let him know as well.

I hope this helps

#2032 1 year ago

I just re-did all of the rubber on my Black Knight with Perfect Play Silicon Rubber from Pinball Wizard and man what a huge difference. The rubber on my machine was about 10 years old, but had been very light home use only. Now with the Perfect Play on there the machine plays like a whole new machine. It is an absolute rocket. I would highly recommend this!

#2033 1 year ago
Quoted from EilersPark:

Rottengog MPU327 resets - SOLVED!
I wanted to revisit this topic as several folks had had issues with the Rottendog MPU327 resetting when both flippers are energized at the same time. In my case, I had a completely working machine before adding the MPU327. I was using a Rottendog PS board with all other OEM boards. No issues. When I swapped in the Rottendog MPU, the issue started happening. I checked connectors, voltages, etc. All good.
The issue appeared to be the GND reference between the MPU and PS boards. I added a dedicated wire with U connectors on it from board to board, attaching under a mounting screw on each board. It has been bullet proof for the last 2 years. I did pass this along to Jim to let him know as well.
I hope this helps

There are 6 separate ground wires that lead directly from the CPU board to the power supply board. Since the header pins were all brand new (new boards), I wonder if the problem is the wiring harness connectors. Do you have the stock IDC connectors on the power supply and CPU harness?

#2034 1 year ago

Maybe they could have been weakened by disconnecting and reconnecting them. I have stock wiring harness connectors (original) and I suppose it is possible that it was the problem, however the problem only occurred after I changed to the Rottendog MPU, which is the same as reported by others. I could probably prove / disprove this by putting back my original System 7 boards but since it's working great I don't want to change anything. Not trying to throw Rottendog under the bus here but maybe the board does have some grounding issue. Regardless I just wanted to share my solution.

#2035 1 year ago
Quoted from EilersPark:

Maybe they could have been weakened by disconnecting and reconnecting them. I have stock wiring harness connectors (original) and I suppose it is possible that it was the problem, however the problem only occurred after I changed to the Rottendog MPU, which is the same as reported by others. I could probably prove / disprove this by putting back my original System 7 boards but since it's working great I don't want to change anything. Not trying to throw Rottendog under the bus here but maybe the board does have some grounding issue. Regardless I just wanted to share my solution.

Thanks for the info,im sure this will help someone as i assume plenty of rottendogs are ending up in these older titles.Imma try to keep mine all williams

#2036 1 year ago
Quoted from EilersPark:

Maybe they could have been weakened by disconnecting and reconnecting them. I have stock wiring harness connectors (original) and I suppose it is possible that it was the problem, however the problem only occurred after I changed to the Rottendog MPU, which is the same as reported by others. I could probably prove / disprove this by putting back my original System 7 boards but since it's working great I don't want to change anything. Not trying to throw Rottendog under the bus here but maybe the board does have some grounding issue. Regardless I just wanted to share my solution.

Yes, thanks for posting your solution!

#2037 1 year ago
Quoted from Tbpilot78:

Im just glad i gotta couple options cause its black knight not red knight,thanks again everyone who chimed in

I can vouch for CPR in regards to the quality of the print on the backglass, the rounded corners, as well as their customer service on an issue on my purchase which they are fixing by sending a replacement unit. Furthermore, they tell me that it is an official/licensed/approved design that is based on a NOS glass. Finally, their shipping box is flawless in regards to protecting the glass during shipment.

Out of curiosity on the Mayfair (NOS 2nd printing) vs CPR, does anyone know if the horse is dark grey or blue?

- My original BK black glass (early unit w/ transformer in the head) - horse (and knight) are very dark, and the horse color is dark grey
- My CPR replacement - the knight is much brighter (looks good) but the horse is a dark blue except for where the bulb is under the left hoof (bright blue);
- Mayfair replacement - is ???

Also, I am curious on how "new" the Mayfair units are in regards to scratches/damage since it sounds like they are over 20 years old.

BK_Glass (resized).jpg
#2038 1 year ago
Quoted from Michel_K17:

I can vouch for CPR in regards to the quality of the print on the backglass, the rounded corners, as well as their customer service on an issue on my purchase which they are fixing by sending a replacement unit. Furthermore, they tell me that it is an official/licensed/approved design that is based on a NOS glass. Finally, their shipping box is flawless in regards to protecting the glass during shipment.
Out of curiosity on the Mayfair (NOS 2nd printing) vs CPR, does anyone know if the horse is dark grey or blue?
- My original BK black glass (early unit w/ transformer in the head) - horse (and knight) are very dark, and the horse color is dark grey
- My CPR replacement - the knight is much brighter (looks good) but the horse is a dark blue except for where the bulb is under the left hoof (bright blue);
- Mayfair replacement - is ???
Also, I am curious on how "new" the Mayfair units are in regards to scratches/damage since it sounds like they are over 20 years old.[quoted image]

I have a Mayfair glass that I got back in the early 2000s. The horse is dark grey (not blue) and the night is a darker grey.

BK Glass (resized).jpg
#2039 1 year ago
Quoted from Michel_K17:

I can vouch for CPR in regards to the quality of the print on the backglass, the rounded corners, as well as their customer service on an issue on my purchase which they are fixing by sending a replacement unit. Furthermore, they tell me that it is an official/licensed/approved design that is based on a NOS glass. Finally, their shipping box is flawless in regards to protecting the glass during shipment.
Out of curiosity on the Mayfair (NOS 2nd printing) vs CPR, does anyone know if the horse is dark grey or blue?
- My original BK black glass (early unit w/ transformer in the head) - horse (and knight) are very dark, and the horse color is dark grey
- My CPR replacement - the knight is much brighter (looks good) but the horse is a dark blue except for where the bulb is under the left hoof (bright blue);
- Mayfair replacement - is ???
Also, I am curious on how "new" the Mayfair units are in regards to scratches/damage since it sounds like they are over 20 years old.[quoted image]

Thanks for your imput as ive yet to hear back from mayfair,i believe color of horse /knight depends on time of run or something as if you look at prev post last week it shows 2 mayfair bg's. One guy(post above me )has black but the other has blue.I think i like the dark scheme better but the blue/brighter knight wouldn't bother me a bit,eighter way its one of the best bg's in pinball imo

#2040 1 year ago

Thank you both for the excellent feedback. Definitely concur that the design of this backglass is spectacular.

#2041 1 year ago

Question: Is this Bumper Post supposed to be exposed or remain hidden behind the metal guides? I just really noticed this when I put new rubbers on the machine and it doesn't seem like it serves a purpose the way it is now. When assembled the new CPR playfield I used all of their tapped screw holes to mount the metal guides. should those metal guides be moved expose that post? It seems like it would spare a lot of drains down the outside ramp.

bk bumper post (resized).jpg
#2042 1 year ago

Your good,thats on right

#2043 1 year ago

Looks just like mine too.

-Hans

#2044 1 year ago
Quoted from HHaase:

Looks just like mine too.
-Hans

Hey hans were following eachother around the forums i think

#2045 1 year ago

I inquired about a new(old) backglass from Mayfair in late May of this year and here is his response. Hopefully he won't mind me posting this.

I have a quality reproduction Black Knight backglass that was made by Williams in 1996. It is just like the original in form and fit, and printed on glass not plastic. They upgraded the quality of the ink to address the issue of peeling on the original 1980 run. All colors including the mirroring are exactly like the original. It is simply perfect! I have sold dozens of these and never had a problem from a customer. The price on the glass is $275, add $45 for a trim package that includes a new stainless steel lift channel and plastic outside edge trim. Shipping is $75 East of Chicago, $95 West of Chicago in the USA. All backglasses are sent UPS fully insured. For International shipping ask for a quote. If using paypal add $20 for fees. If sending a US Postal Money order, no additional fees

I have his contact info and can send in a pm, I don't want to post in a public forum.

#2046 1 year ago
Quoted from EilersPark:

Question: Is this Bumper Post supposed to be exposed or remain hidden behind the metal guides? I just really noticed this when I put new rubbers on the machine and it doesn't seem like it serves a purpose the way it is now. When assembled the new CPR playfield I used all of their tapped screw holes to mount the metal guides. should those metal guides be moved expose that post? It seems like it would spare a lot of drains down the outside ramp.[quoted image]

I actually split a post sleeve and placed it around the post so that the ball wouldn't hit two metal ball guide ends. It doesn't interfere with the ball from any direction.

20181027_172012 (resized).jpg
#2047 1 year ago
Quoted from Destin:

The price on the glass is $275, add $45 for a trim package that includes a new stainless steel lift channel and plastic outside edge trim. Shipping is $75 East of Chicago, $95 West of Chicago in the USA.

I was quoted $325 and $25 two years ago. The response is basically cut and paste other than a price change. So you're saving a bit of money now compared to 2 years ago...

#2048 1 year ago
Quoted from Destin:

I inquired about a new(old) backglass from Mayfair in late May of this year and here is his response. Hopefully he won't mind me posting this.
I have a quality reproduction Black Knight backglass that was made by Williams in 1996. It is just like the original in form and fit, and printed on glass not plastic. They upgraded the quality of the ink to address the issue of peeling on the original 1980 run. All colors including the mirroring are exactly like the original. It is simply perfect! I have sold dozens of these and never had a problem from a customer. The price on the glass is $275, add $45 for a trim package that includes a new stainless steel lift channel and plastic outside edge trim. Shipping is $75 East of Chicago, $95 West of Chicago in the USA. All backglasses are sent UPS fully insured. For International shipping ask for a quote. If using paypal add $20 for fees. If sending a US Postal Money order, no additional fees
I have his contact info and can send in a pm, I don't want to post in a public forum.

At Pintastic New England this year I paid $325 complete with all the channel and new lift bar. I did purchase a few other items with the "package" at the same time.

#2049 1 year ago
Quoted from EilersPark:

Question: Is this Bumper Post supposed to be exposed or remain hidden behind the metal guides?

I adjusted mine so that the rubber bumper can be touched by the ball.
I believe I pushed the top side wall back a little, that helped expose the post.

#2050 1 year ago

It’s all apart. Cabinet is out for some restomod paint. Flippers rebuilt. Playfield protector next.

772128C0-11B5-40C1-9B70-90EDB3C351B2 (resized).jpeg
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