(Topic ID: 54503)

Black Knight Club...Members Only!


By mof

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 2,020 posts
  • 195 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 hours ago by frunch
  • Topic is favorited by 97 Pinsiders

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There are 2020 posts in this topic. You are on page 41 of 41.
#2001 12 days ago

Thanks! The area you are referring to is for reference. I use inkspace, and these items are on a unique layer which I make invisible when sending the file to the printer. I intend to make this artwork available to the forum members once I have completed a successful print and installation.

#2002 12 days ago
Quoted from Michel_K17:

Thanks! The area you are referring to is for reference. I use inkspace, and these items are on a unique layer which I make invisible when sending the file to the printer. I intend to make this artwork available to the forum members once I have completed a successful print and installation.

That would be awesome of you! I for one am very interested.

I have a basket case BK that someone disassembled, trying to do a playfield swap and cabinet repaint. The paint job is not as good as I want so I was going to re-paint it but installing decals would be even better!

#2003 11 days ago

Completed the front artwork (original and modified), and going to the printers tomorrow.

schwaggs You bet: happy to help. Will post the files soon.

Modified - BK Front Art (resized).pngOriginal - BK Front Art (resized).png
#2004 10 days ago

what size bolts are needed to attach the cabinet to the headbox?

#2005 10 days ago
Quoted from PopBumperPete:

what size bolts are needed to attach the cabinet to the headbox?

Any hardware store should have them - 3/8-16 x 2" or 2-1/2"

Bolt:

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/4322-01113-40

Washer:

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/4700-00095-00

#2006 10 days ago

I’d like to replace the GI connectors and header. Can anyone point me to the right header? Is that just 2 pins?

#2007 10 days ago
Quoted from Boise_D:

I’d like to replace the GI connectors and header. Can anyone point me to the right header? Is that just 2 pins?

The one on the power supply board?

Board side with pins:
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=15-31-1026

Wire side housing:
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=19-09-1029

Pins for wire side housing:
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=02-09-1104

#2008 10 days ago

Unless you've converted a LOT of your GI lights to LED, you don't want to replace the original connectors for the GI on the power supply with identical stuff. They're badly over-loaded already. There's a reason that EVERY system 7 game has that connector burned/bypassed/hacked, etc.... When I tried replacing it on mine, way back when, the new one failed in less than an hour.

Better choice would be to convert it over to the style of connector they used in the early System 11 machines, unfortunately I don't have any of the part numbers on that.

That and you really need to run LED's in as much of the GI lights as possible to reduce the power load on the connector.

#2009 9 days ago

Thank you schwaggs that’s what I needed. I have put all LEDs in, but I’d still consider a switch to the system 11 type. Anyone have those links? I’ve got several system 11 games. I’ll go look

#2010 8 days ago

Any idea why the previous owner jumpered the left and right switch grounds?

These two wires are connected to the driver board at 2J12-1 and 2J12-2.

Thx.

Jumpered Lt & Rt Sw Grounds (resized).jpg
#2011 7 days ago

Maybe to make better contact to ground?
Maybe one wire has a male or female connector bad on the intermediate
connectors in the back box?

#2012 7 days ago

Hi vec-tor,

Thank you for your reply. Here are some answers:

1. Maybe to make better contact to ground?
- Although I saw someone refer them to as a "ground", they are in-fact independent of one another, and not connected to the main ground. They are more like a "return" line perhaps?

2. Maybe one wire has a male or female connector bad on the intermediate connectors in the back box?
- Good thinking. I used my multi-meter to do a continuity check of each wire through the connectors, all the way to the 2J12-1 and 2J12-2 pins on the board, and both wires are good.

Maybe the issue is that the flipper relay is broken?

Is this flipper replay generally considered to be reliable?

After more searching, I also found this thread where the topic of bypassing these pins is discussed:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/system-7-black-knight-flipper-problem#post-4070915
Mod from previous owner (resized).png

#2013 6 days ago
Quoted from Michel_K17:

Hi vec-tor,
Thank you for your reply. Here are some answers:
1. Maybe to make better contact to ground?
- Although I saw someone refer them to as a "ground", they are in-fact independent of one another, and not connected to the main ground. They are more like a "return" line perhaps?

Those wires do indeed go to "main" ground. They traverse the relay which is used to disable the flippers when not in a game. From there, they use the "lamp and solenoid" ground on the driver board which is tied back to the power board which has all grounds tied together.

That mod could have been used to work around a bad set of contacts on the relay or a bad connection in the wiring/connectors from the flippers to the driver board.

#2014 5 days ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

hich is tied back to the power board which has all grounds tied together.

That mod could have been used to work around a bad set of contacts on the relay or a bad connection in the wiring/connectors from the flippers to the driver board.

Thanks Schwaggs for the explanation. That helps. Will return the wiring to original, and investigate/fix root cause.

#2015 4 days ago

I have a newly acquired Black Knight project. It has an errant wire on the harness, and I was wondering if I could get a reference photo or guidance to which pin it needs to connect to in order to function.

The purple with gray wire in the display (Strobe 16?) is in correctly attached in position 5 on the display connector (photo pointing to the wire.) On my project, that wire is just loose and not connected to any pin on the CPU. Can someone shoot me a reference photo of where the purple with gray wireshould attach to on the CPU board?

I haven't done much on these older machines. So, I am excited to learn from all of the people in the thread.

It's also doing this, but that could be related.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/black-knight-sound-question

purple gray (resized).jpgdisplay (resized).jpg
#2016 4 days ago

Try this doc from the old firepower.com site. It is a system 6 board but the connections to the display didn't change.

CPUBoard.pdf
#2017 3 days ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

Try this doc from the old firepower.com site. It is a system 6 board but the connections to the display didn't change.[quoted image]

Thanks. That color coding and the ability to zoom makes all the difference.

#2018 16 hours ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

That would be awesome of you! I for one am very interested.
I have a basket case BK that someone disassembled, trying to do a playfield swap and cabinet repaint. The paint job is not as good as I want so I was going to re-paint it but installing decals would be even better!

Printers had to reprint the vinyls because:
1. One image did not transfer properly from the PDF (they admitted that they had to fix it); and
2. The vinyl was super-glossy even though I had asked for an egg shell Sheen

My Lessons Learned in regards to the printing & application process:

1. Make sure that you ask for a top clear layer on top of the vinyl print - it makes the vinyl thicker and protects the print from scratches

2. Ask for scrap pieces of vinyl from the print shop. It was nice to be able to practice without the stress of ruining the final print!

3. Get a roller! Even the "soft" applicator the vinyl print shop gave me tended to make scratches. I put some velcro on one side of the applicator, and even then it was not foolproof.

4. Wet vs dry. Material was 3M Controltac for which I paid more ($284 before taxes), but I was told that it the longevity is much better. This material has channels to allow the air to exit ("air egress" feature). However, no matter what I did (with the practice pieces), I would still get the occasional air bubble. The 3M instructions said to avoid the wet method because there is no means for the water to dry if any of it gets trapped, However, the print shop highly recommended the wet method anyway. Since my cabinet had a layer of clear, and it was fairly flat, I went ahead, and used the "wet" method, using a light mist of water (with 2 drops of detergent per liter). Procedure was easy: the roller allowed me to fully push out any trapped water, and after 24 hours, I can attest that the vinyl has adhered to the cabinet very well and it was fully flat with no bubbles. Generally speaking, I used the procedure from Australia shown on youtube here (except I used far less water). Trimming just shy of the corner worked well.

5. I did not need to use an assistant. Separating the film was easy, and I used a trimmed piece of underlay to grab the end, and keep the end stiffso that the corners would not fold.

6. I used the triangles at bottom of each print to align the pieces with the cabinet, and it all lined up well.

7. I did not remove the rails, and simply trimmed around them. Worked well.

8. Total time to apply the vinyl: 5 hours. This excludes removing/re-installing the legs, and playing with the practice pieces of vinyl.

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#2019 13 hours ago

Wow. Very nice job indeed.

#2020 10 hours ago

Wow, thanks for the detailed post! That looks great!

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There are 2020 posts in this topic. You are on page 41 of 41.

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