Ok doing an edit because I see how it works now. Looks like the knob on the board is the sounds other than the voice. So if you want more speech volume you turn down the board knob so less the play sounds are mixed in lower then you turn the cabinet volume control up to bring up the volume in general thus making the voice more prominent.

Iirc if you turn the knob too far one way it'll just cut out the speech completely and leave the sounds

Definitely not where they should be. I’d have to check mine to see if there is even supposed to be a light there or not. But I’m on the road right now so can’t even check.

The original stickers often fade very badly on the pop bumpers. Most often they’re pink by now, but seen a few that faded in the past.

Yours is a fairly early production game, upper playfield still has the notches for the stand up targets. Never seen a game in the wild with the stand ups fitted though.

My machine does not have that light socket. It looks like that's the left side lower drop target? If so, mine has one behind the targets, but not under the empty plastic. If you keep it just run the wiring from the existing socket. That must be a product of an early machine too.

As far as your coin question, just set it to free play and ignore the rest. You do that by setting Maximum Credits to 0, in adjustment # 18.

I have an earlier production game (transformer in head, standup notches), and don't have that bulb. Looks almost like a mod to me

Mine doesn't have it either. That's not an original GI lamp location. No way Williams would have one there without a hole nearby to run the wiring through. A previous owner must have added it to brighten up a dark spot.

Anyone here willing to scan the plate in the center of the turnaround? I just need an image to cut a copy from.

We're cutting reproduction stainless steel ramp surfaces, too, and there could be an extra copy of those in it for you.

PM me if you can help. Thank you!

So my glass is bad and I can’t put lights in it because they glare off the playfield glass. A quick cheap fix till I find a glass replacement. Printed image between two layers of .080 lexan.

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Someones custom mod...No wires should ever come up from behind drop targets.
If you like it...replace with longer wires and have it in a black sheathed and dress the wires
further back on the left side then under the playfield... If you want a "clean look" or you can
drill a small hole next to the first lamp socket and feed the wires up/down from that point
and tap back into the GI string. I used to do stuff like that many years ago...
Neat find.

https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-plastics/black-knight-2/

That looks pretty good. I just went ahead and bought a reproduction glass from CPR. I would offer you my original but it's a piece of crap...

I think i just need to fold and buy a new one. Still does not feel right with the print lol.

New one looks REALLY nice. Not cheap though...

New CPR backglass ...

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vs. the old one (worth the money imo) ...

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That looks like a white knight not a black one.

Going to say the same. Sure looks different.

Still neat to see the knight more. It just needs some areas blacked out.

Hoping someone can help me out. Had my coil assembly come off the lower playfield for the ball eject that serves it up into the shooter lane.

Can anyone tell me what that whole thing is called? Not sure about proper terminology. Trying to order replacement parts for the whole thing, but getting kind of confused between the ball return assemblies versus ball eject assembly versus ball eject assemblies (ball lifters) in the parts catalog (http://www.planetarypinball.com/reference/partsmanuals/WMS_Parts_1980/index.html#/96/).

Also - the green wire that got disconnected in the last photo, anyone have a good photo of where that needs to be soldered back to?

Thanks all!

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Why do you want to replace it?

Looks like your problem is going to be the pf repair, not the assembly. If you replace it, it will go in the same spot, so not sure how that helps you.

To fix it, get some skewers or dowel rods that fit tightly in the screw holes. Add a little wood glue and let it dry. When you reinstall, make sure to drill pilot holes so you don't rip out the repair with he screw.

Don't forget the spring. If you need to see how it is assembled, the upper trough should be the same or similar enough for you to figure it out.

You aren't going to find these parts, except from someone that's parting out a pf. I'm sure many different Williams games would work if you really want to replace it.

I don't think the bracket has to go back in the same exact spot where the screws tore out. As long as the coil is centered over the plunger you can rotate the assembly anywhere else it will fit and make new holes for the screws. Filling the old holes is optional unless they bother you. About the only part you could have to replace is the coil if it got damaged when it dropped, or to resolder a wire if it tore off.

I think the detached green wire is soldered to the same spot as the green wire that is still attached.

I can post up a pic tonight my PF is out of the game.

Does anyone have a spare magnet they'd sell cheap?

Update:
Reflowed all header pins on the 2 main boards and the game is working 100% now. Very happy and thanks to John’s Arcade on youtube for the rainy day motivation to do this!
Is there a setting for the bell? It only works when the Bknight admits defeat and does not work during multiball
Thanks!

It should also play when you get an extra ball, and once you max your bonus

Also when in 30 second bonus time (more than one player) after the "regular" game is over.

Bell also plays when you hit any criteria that awards a free credit.

Did you end up using the stickers and how did it turn out? I recently acquired a Black Knight where the right magna save is worn out in the center. Does the sticker work or is it too raised?

Black Knight with Side Blade Art. Nice work by Tilt.

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I'm selling my Mod that plunges the ball onto the lower playfield instead of the upper playfield. PM me if you are interested.

Mod - For Sale

1980 Williams Black Knight Mod Modification Wire Guide Set Archived

Used, good condition - “I recently sold my Black Knight machine. The buyer wasn't interested in the mod that was done to the machine. I removed it and it is now available for sale. See the attached video ...”

2019-07-10

Cañon City, CO

canoncitypb

150

Archived after: 57 days

Viewed: 143 times

Status: Not sold: Decided to keep game

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I didn't make it. It came with my game. It was made by the previous owner. I just liked it which contributed to me buying the game.

I never tried that. What does that setting do to make multiball harder?

You have to hit the turnaround on the lower playfield before you can lock a ball. You can read it if you go to the IPDB and open the manual for Black Knight.

I like the idea of plunging to the lower playfield, make actually getting up there more rewarding. Not enough to put screw holes in my game though

There are two settings that make multi-ball difficult.
#37 - as noted above, you shoot the loop to qualify locks. A decent player will still get at least 1 multi-ball per game
#38 - is worse - memory for ball locks. Without memory, you have to re-qualify and re lock 3 balls after every drain. Makes MB pretty tough.

I never messed with the setting when i got min but i don't have to shoot the loop but i have no memory on locks so that hurts between balls. With the memory on I think I can bump up my high score!

Shooting the loops to light locks is a nice little difficulty increase, gives you some more strategic play. No lock memory is overly mean, imo. You earned the lock, you should keep it!

I’m getting really good at that upper playfield wraparound into the lock it’s the lower bonus loop that is giving me grief. I’m also having a issue with the right upper drops not actually going down when hit hard from the left flipper. I’m thinking stronger pull down springs ?

Weaker push forward springs probably

They drop very easily when moderate or the ball just brushes them, Its the super hard direct hit that don't seem to let them drop for some reason.

I have this same bricking problem on my BK upper playfield targets. I've tried different size springs, different targets, and even raising the targets. I more or less gave up and now treat that as a type of skill shot....hit those targets softer and/or at an angle.