(Topic ID: 54503)

Black Knight Club...Members Only!

By mof

10 years ago


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  • 3,192 posts
  • 303 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 27 days ago by vec-tor
  • Topic is favorited by 161 Pinsiders

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There are 3,192 posts in this topic. You are on page 34 of 64.
#1651 5 years ago

Ok, my BK is so close

I have the cliffys on the game, but they seem to make a lip so the ball has a little harder time ejecting into the trough, never on ball 1 but ball 2 or on a lock. The upper pf lock also has a little lip. Is this an issue? Do people adjust so it’s flush?

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#1652 5 years ago

I dont have the ball trough cliffy, but I have the saucer cliffy and the upper ball lock cliffy. I dont find they inhibit the ball at all.

#1653 5 years ago

Same here - I have a Cliffy in my upper playfield ball lock and no issues ejecting the ball out. In fact it's help cut down tremendously the "fly through" I used to experience when the first ball goes into the lock and it's traveling fast enough that it doesn't stay in and lock, it just flies through. Before the Cliffy, that would happen about half the time. After the Cliffy install, it happens maybe 1 time out of 50.

#1654 5 years ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

Thanx, guys. Very helpful and I was able to get the upper playfield up enough to get at the turnaround. Playfield protector is in, and I'm quite pleased. I put it mainly to overcome the multitude of cupped inserts and it sure did...balls roll much truer now, no bizarre change of directions. I needed to make a few mods/shims to keep the balls from hopping when hitting the ramps, but all in all this is a great improvement. I can post some before and after pictures if anyone is interested....it looks like my semi-decent playfield has been clear coated.
I'm encouraged enough now that I'll probably do my Eight Ball Deluxe tonight as well. That should be much easier/simpler than BK.

What protector did you use? Have had my bk for 30 yrs. So it has some wear. Dont want to overlay it until needed. A protector may be an option for me.

#1655 5 years ago
Quoted from Mtkst19:

What protector did you use? Have had my bk for 30 yrs. So it has some wear. Dont want to overlay it until needed. A protector may be an option for me.

I used the one from these guys:

https://www.playfield-protectors.com/Home/Details/a--hn8cHiUai1PzL150V-g?categoryid=22&category=Playfield%20Protectors&name=Black%20Knight%20%7C%201980

They're in Germany, but they ship FAST. I ordered it over their holiday shutdown (they posted they were closed for a couple of weeks and would resume shipping on 09JAN). Mine shipped from Germany on 10JAN and it was at my door 15JAN.

#1656 5 years ago

Does anyone put Mylar on the magnasave circles? I’m potentially putting this on route and want to keep the playfield decent. The plan was to put a hardtop on years from now but was in no rush... so I’d like to keep it as nice as I can for now. Was worried about the balls grinding and wearing the paint at the magnets

#1657 5 years ago
Quoted from northvibe:

Does anyone put Mylar on the magnasave circles? I’m potentially putting this on route and want to keep the playfield decent. The plan was to put a hardtop on years from now but was in no rush... so I’d like to keep it as nice as I can for now. Was worried about the balls grinding and wearing the paint at the magnets

Yes I use the round "drop" circular Mylar on the magnets. Works great.

#1658 5 years ago
Quoted from Travish:

Yes I use the round "drop" circular Mylar on the magnets. Works great.

Can you post a link where to buy? Thanks!

#1659 5 years ago

I think this is the one I used. I'm sure other places have then too.

39 cents each.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=66-msc

#1660 5 years ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

I used the one from these guys:
https://www.playfield-protectors.com/Home/Details/a--hn8cHiUai1PzL150V-g?categoryid=22&category=Playfield%20Protectors&name=Black%20Knight%20%7C%201980
They're in Germany, but they ship FAST. I ordered it over their holiday shutdown (they posted they were closed for a couple of weeks and would resume shipping on 09JAN). Mine shipped from Germany on 10JAN and it was at my door 15JAN.

Thanks for getting back to me so promptly. The protector is just a clear non sticky plastic that is held in place from the various playfield items/posts correct? Not like a mylar that sticks to surface.

I'd love a "mint" play field. But realistically I wanna play the game not collect dust because of afraid of wearing it. My playfield is not terrible. So if I can slow down the wear to the point I wont need to hardcap any time soon it I'm ok with that.

#1661 5 years ago
Quoted from Mtkst19:

Thanks for getting back to me so promptly. The protector is just a clear non sticky plastic that is held in place from the various playfield items/posts correct? Not like a mylar that sticks to surface.
I'd love a "mint" play field. But realistically I wanna play the game not collect dust because of afraid of wearing it. My playfield is not terrible. So if I can slow down the wear to the point I wont need to hardcap any time soon it I'm ok with that.

Ya, mine is probably the same. It’s in good shape no huge wear. But I’m gonna play it now and route it, then, after probably put a hardtop on it. I have the cpr plastic set waiting

#1662 5 years ago
Quoted from Mtkst19:

Thanks for getting back to me so promptly. The protector is just a clear non sticky plastic that is held in place from the various playfield items/posts correct? Not like a mylar that sticks to surface.
I'd love a "mint" play field. But realistically I wanna play the game not collect dust because of afraid of wearing it. My playfield is not terrible. So if I can slow down the wear to the point I wont need to hardcap any time soon it I'm ok with that.

Correct - that protector is non-adhesive and can be easily removed with no damage at all to the playfield. It's held in place by the way it hugs some of the surrounding topside hardware. You remove the plastics, rubbers, wire guides, flippers/shafts, ramps, and the like then lay it in place, then put your stuff back. You do have to separate the upper playfield from the lower so that you can get enough access to the lower playfield turnaround and get the protector over that, but it wasn't too hard to do. That was my first playfield top-side tear down....took about 2 hours to tear it down (including 45 minutes trying to figure out how to separate the top playfield from the bottom), about 20 minutes to put in the protector, and about an hour to put everything back.

Tips:
- Clean your playfield after it's torn down and make sure it's dry and dust free. Do not wax or it'll make the underside of the protector look smudgy.
- Lay the protector down without peeling off the top or bottom protective strips. Make sure it's going to go in/fit.
- Wear rubber gloves when laying it down. Getting fingerprints on top of the playfield is fine...they're easily wiped away. But you don't want to get fingerprints on the underside...it'll drive you nuts when you see them during game play and the only way to get rid of them is to tear everything down (again), lift out the protector, and wipe it clean.
- The ramp bottoms will sit a little lower than the playfield...the ball may hop or even get stuck there if it's going slow enough. Cut off some unused/unseen excess protector from an edge (scissors work) and use that as shims to put under the ramp bottoms and bring them up to the same level of the protector.
- I did not have to adjust the height of the drop targets - they still worked fine after install. Some people have reported that they needed to raise their drop targets a bit to accommodate the higher playfield with the protector.

Kris

#1663 5 years ago
Quoted from Mtkst19:

I'd love a "mint" play field. But realistically I wanna play the game not collect dust because of afraid of wearing it. My playfield is not terrible. So if I can slow down the wear to the point I wont need to hardcap any time soon it I'm ok with that.

Another avenue to consider is getting your playfield clear coated. This depends on your being able to find someone who will do it, but a woodworking shop or auto body shop - any place with a spray booth - would probably be willing to help you out.

It isn't a whole lot more work than what's involved in installing a playfield protector, and you get the advantage of a playfield where the art has been locked down (no flaking paint, for example, especially if your playfield has any planking), and if you ever want to restore the playfield, you've got step one taken care of and can play the game without deteriorating it further.

I have a playfield protector on my Diner because I was curious to try it out, and it really does play nicely. They seem to take a while to "break in", I think because of a residue from the film you have to peel off. I keep mine waxed; many people would debate me on it, but it definitely makes a difference in terms of speed - but the downside of the protectors is any dirt or hair (or stray wax) that gets under the protector is there to stay until you depopulate the playfield again and pull up the protector to clean. So, to my mind, shooting the playfield with clear is a tidier solution, but you have to be able to spray the clear safely.

From the "too much information" file...

#1664 5 years ago
Quoted from sethbenjamin:

Another avenue to consider is getting your playfield clear coated. This depends on your being able to find someone who will do it, but a woodworking shop or auto body shop - any place with a spray booth - would probably be willing to help you out.
It isn't a whole lot more work than what's involved in installing a playfield protector, and you get the advantage of a playfield where the art has been locked down (no flaking paint, for example, especially if your playfield has any planking), and if you ever want to restore the playfield, you've got step one taken care of and can play the game without deteriorating it further.
I have a playfield protector on my Diner because I was curious to try it out, and it really does play nicely. They seem to take a while to "break in", I think because of a residue from the film you have to peel off. I keep mine waxed; many people would debate me on it, but it definitely makes a difference in terms of speed - but the downside of the protectors is any dirt or hair (or stray wax) that gets under the protector is there to stay until you depopulate the playfield again and pull up the protector to clean. So, to my mind, shooting the playfield with clear is a tidier solution, but you have to be able to spray the clear safely.
From the "too much information" file...

Only issue I have with clearing is the time. If the field was mint yes I'd do this.

But for a player the time vs reward not there.

#1665 5 years ago

Black Knight 3000 is next !

#1666 5 years ago
Quoted from Mtkst19:

But for a player the time vs reward not there.

Nothing wrong with that...I like going for full restoration, but my *VERY* player's condition PinBot is as much fun to play as my totally restored F-14. People who visit are always surprised by that!
"She may not look like much but she's got it where it counts" and all that...

#1667 5 years ago

I'm way to anal to start doing restos. I work on euro cars for a living. Last shop I worked for was a high end exotic car place. OCD and attention to detail is good for what I do for a living.

Yet it's bad to my wallet when it comes to personal projects be it car/pinball/ house etc. The 50 more dollar syndrome kicks in. The 50 more dollar syndrome is basically while in there- what's 50 more bucks to do this or do that. Before you know it an easy fix turns into a full out money eating rebuild.

Dont get me wrong, it may happen to black knight at some point because of my sentimental attachment. It is my 1st pin. Got it when I was 8 yrs old for Christmas 30 yrs ago. Parents snagged it used from a local vending vompany off route for like 400 bucks or something like that. Even after my parents split and my mom and I had nothing- she kept the machine.

In the lean years we had no living room furniture and a tiny living room at that. the black knight was broken and used as the tv stand lol.

#1668 5 years ago

I love this game but gonna voice my one complaint about BK... some may even say it's a coding glitch. During multiball if you hit the magnasave button, by default it should activate for I think 5 seconds. I noticed that if a target bank is completed while one of the magnets is activated (and the other magnasave is already lit), it will shut off the magnet and reset/relight the current magnet. Seems rare but I've lost many balls that were orbiting the magnet that did not have time to slow down. Seems like they should have coded this so the current active magnet finishes it's full 5 second cycle. Hope this makes sense. There, I'm done.

#1669 5 years ago

Dumb question, If I'm not mistaken the flipper coils use 50v before the eos switch is flipped, but do the coils for the kickout holes and drop target banks also use 50v or is it less?

#1670 5 years ago
Quoted from MoSeS_1592:

Dumb question, If I'm not mistaken the flipper coils use 50v before the eos switch is flipped, but do the coils for the kickout holes and drop target banks also use 50v or is it less?

they are 28v IIRC
coil 19-400/30-750

When I got my BK, there were 2 x 50v coils for flippers and man did they not flip good.

#1671 5 years ago
Quoted from MoSeS_1592:

Dumb question, If I'm not mistaken the flipper coils use 50v before the eos switch is flipped, but do the coils for the kickout holes and drop target banks also use 50v or is it less?

50V was not used until Laser Cue. All coils in BK are 28V.

#1672 5 years ago

Is there a site that sells the star posts? I scoured marcos and they dont seem to be the same as what was there originally?

#1673 5 years ago

Thanks for the info!

#1674 5 years ago
Quoted from topkat:

Is there a site that sells the star posts? I scoured marcos and they dont seem to be the same as what was there originally?

I don't think anyone sell the true 80s Williams posts. Best place I found to get spares is someone parting out a game on eBay.

The more modern style posts are the same physical size as the others, they just have a different texture. https://www.pinballlife.com/plastic-translucent-star-posts-1-116-tall.html

#1675 5 years ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

I don't think anyone sell the true 80s Williams posts. Best place I found to get spares is someone parting out a game on eBay.
The more modern style posts are the same physical size as the others, they just have a different texture. https://www.pinballlife.com/plastic-translucent-star-posts-1-116-tall.html

Thanks. That helps I didn’t realize those will work. I will get a bulk order.
I wasted my time trying to clean those in my f14 and they still don’t look ad nice the new ones. For the cost I will just replace.
Thanks again

#1676 5 years ago
Quoted from topkat:

I wasted my time trying to clean those in my f14 and they still don’t look ad nice the new ones.

This is interesting to me since I have also attempted to clean these posts in my Taxi with not much luck. It seems like the old dry, worn out rubbers leave a residue/grit that is just impossible to remove completely from the plastic posts. This question may belong in the restoration forums but does anyone have any tips on how to restore these things to a like-new appearance? It would be nice if it was possible to restore the original posts if someone were OCD about original parts/authenticity and such.

#1677 5 years ago

Try this: Put the posts in Windex, and tie the container to your vibrating tumbler for about three days. The rubber falls off, and they are clean. I'm not anal enough to look for small scrapes, etc. from them hitting each other, but they do come out clean. Any residual rubber will wipe off while you rinse and dry.

#1678 5 years ago

Thanks, I will give it a try.

#1679 5 years ago

I scrubbed a few with a number of chemical cleaners...for me even when they came out "clean", they still had wear marks from the ball bumping them for 20 plus years. Personally, I'd rather have the new ones as long as they dont change the play of the game..
Unitll I ordered a few bags of the star posts, I hadnt even realized how much nicer the new ones look vs the ones I tried to clean...
But I understand some will want to stay with the factory parts..

#1680 5 years ago
Quoted from MoSeS_1592:

This is interesting to me since I have also attempted to clean these posts in my Taxi with not much luck. It seems like the old dry, worn out rubbers leave a residue/grit that is just impossible to remove completely from the plastic posts. This question may belong in the restoration forums but does anyone have any tips on how to restore these things to a like-new appearance? It would be nice if it was possible to restore the original posts if someone were OCD about original parts/authenticity and such.

I put mine in a ultrasonic cleaner with some TSP in the water. Heat up the water using the ultrasonic's heater (makes the water very hot, too hot to touch for very long). Run several ultrasonic cycles, stirring the posts to give every post a chance to be shaken. Leave in the water overnight and repeat the heat and several ultrasonic cycles the next day. Take them out, rinse them off and I find that very few, if any, have rubber or wax residue on them.

#1681 5 years ago
Quoted from topkat:

Is there a site that sells the star posts? I scoured marcos and they dont seem to be the same as what was there originally?

Looks like pinball resource has something very similar. Sometimes he has parts that aren't shown on the website when you call in.

http://www.pbresource.com/posts.html#finned

#1682 5 years ago

thanks.. I went ahead and ordered a bunch of the newer model. Cant hurt to have and I figure I will see how they look
If not a good fit I will try Steve's

#1683 5 years ago

Rules question here:

Which events add score to the end of ball bonus? I know the U-turn increases the bonus multiplier, but what events actually add banked points to the bonus you receive at the end of a ball versus points you receive real-time as the event is actually happening during game play?

#1684 5 years ago

I think completing a bank gives you 3 bonus?

#1685 5 years ago
Quoted from zacaj:

I think completing a bank gives you 3 bonus?

3,000 points?

#1687 5 years ago

How does one light the special at the u turn? I don't recall lighting this, but maybe because all my settings award extra balls.

#1688 5 years ago

Each time you complete a bank of targets, you get an arrow lit next to the bank. To get EB, you have to complete all three arrows for both of the top 2 banks (6 arrows total), or the bottom 2 banks, or all 4 banks (depending on eb difficulty setting).

#1689 5 years ago
Quoted from frunch:

Each time you complete a bank of targets, you get an arrow lit next to the bank. To get EB, you have to complete all three arrows for both of the top 2 banks (6 arrows total), or the bottom 2 banks, or all 4 banks (depending on eb difficulty setting).

I get that is how you light EB, but how do you light the special?

#1690 5 years ago

Doh! Read that too fast. Special is obtained only during the "bonus ball" in multiplayer (winner of the game gets an extra 30 seconds of unlimited multiball)... During the bonus ball you have to knock down all 4 banks of targets once--that lights the u-turn Special. Very hard to light it, and even for the amount of times i may have lit it, I've only ever *collected* Special maybe 2-3 times in 15+ years on my game. I don't play nearly as much multiplayer as i used to when i first got the game though.

#1691 5 years ago
Quoted from zacaj:

Each bonus is 1k

Back to my original question, you mean that each time a bank is completed it adds 1k to that round's end-of-ball bonus, yes? Does anything else add to this value (e.g. pop bumper, slingshots, spinners, etc.)?

#1692 5 years ago

Inlanes and outlanes advance 2 bonus. A successful magna-save advances 5 bonus. The rollover at the top left of the upper playfield advances 1 bonus. Knocking down a bank of targets advances 3 bonus. I think that covers all of them...

#1693 5 years ago
Quoted from MoSeS_1592:

Back to my original question, you mean that each time a bank is completed it adds 1k to that round's end-of-ball bonus, yes? Does anything else add to this value (e.g. pop bumper, slingshots, spinners, etc.)?

As frunch says, completing a bank advances 3 bonus. Each bonus is 1k times the bonus multiplier.

#1694 5 years ago

Makes sense, thank you for clarifying!

#1695 5 years ago
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#1696 5 years ago
Quoted from Pbgixxer:

I have a completely populated play field for sale . Finished the play field a couple months ago and lost interest in the project .
Hard top installed
CPR plastics
Titan rubber
All new post
New flipper bats
Powder coated apron with new decal
New spinner and decal
New pop bumper cap (jet)
Laminated drop target decals
If this sells then I will part out the rest of the game . $700 firm
[quoted image][quoted image]

That looks really nice....and I'm tempted. Oy....decisions, decisions. I'm putting a hard top on my Mata Hari restoration now so the timing is bad! I just put a playfield protector on my BK and it's a dramatic improvement on play (cupped inserts). I'll get back to you if it's still available after I think about it a bit.

#1697 5 years ago
Quoted from Pbgixxer:

I have a completely populated play field for sale . Finished the play field a couple months ago and lost interest in the project .
Hard top installed
CPR plastics
Titan rubber
All new post
New flipper bats
Powder coated apron with new decal
New spinner and decal
New pop bumper cap (jet)
Laminated drop target decals
If this sells then I will part out the rest of the game . $700 firm
[quoted image][quoted image]

What happened to the rest of the game?

#1698 5 years ago
Quoted from zacaj:

What happened to the rest of the game?

I have it but the mpu and driver are battery corroded . Needs a new cabinet . Sat in a barn for quite some time . I’ve been looking for a donor cab but no luck .

#1699 5 years ago
Quoted from Pbgixxer:

I have it but the mpu and driver are battery corroded . Needs a new cabinet . Sat in a barn for quite some time . I’ve been looking for a donor cab but no luck .

Local cabinet maker? I could build you one but I'm in Massachusetts.

#1700 5 years ago

Hey guys,
Currently working on a Black Knight that I picked up last month. Have it working 100% except for a couple of small issues. The one main problem I've having is that the pop bumper is not illuminating. It is functioning but it is not lighting up. I've tried a couple of different LEDs in it with no luck. All other GI and inserts are working.

Secondly, the left magna sling doesn't seem to be activating...the right one works fine...anything in particular to look for?

Also to lift the playfield up and lean it against the backbox do I need to disconnect some of the molexes? I don't want to put a strain on the wires but there just isn't very good access with it leaning up with the bar. Thanks in advance!

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