(Topic ID: 54503)

Black Knight Club...Members Only!


By mof

7 years ago



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There are 2277 posts in this topic. You are on page 31 of 46.
#1501 1 year ago

Question: When the ball comes tearing down the righthand ramp, and you have to stop it with the RH flipper, do you find that the flipper "gives" a little? It doesn't seem like it should, but I'm new to these 28V flippers so maybe that is normal with really high speed impact?

#1502 1 year ago
Quoted from sethbenjamin:

Ooh, didn't know about that...saves the transistors, does it?

Did you replace the IDC connectors at the switch row and column connectors to the board? I had issues with some switches not registering after I had tested them all and found them working, then realized those connections to the board weren't making consistent contact. I had been reluctant to do those over because the IDC's have a number of "pass-through" contacts, but Allan advised me to go ahead and crimp 2 wires into one Trifurcon, just do both crimps on the wire and don't worry about crimping the insulation. Works just great.

Nothing like added protection. As far as the idc's, I just picked up an assortment from Mouser from 2 pin through 10 pin connectors with several hundred trifurcons. One of my next projects will be to go through and redo all the connectors going to the driver and CPU. But the connector I'm speaking of from the playfield to the back box is definitely a major issue right now.

#1503 1 year ago
Quoted from epeabs:

Placed and order from Great Plains today for some pins and sockets and some plugs and receptacles, and an extraction tool. I will rebuild the connector once the parts arrive. I the meantime I installed nvram.weebly's Special Solenoid Saver. A super easy 10 minute install with the directions.
[quoted image]

Ohhh, mine is going on route and the weebly solinoid saver would be great! Didn’t know it existed!

Ok, so I re-pinned my connector and for the game up!

0D20B28A-BD0F-4AA4-A887-542F4A4E8128 (resized).jpeg

However every time I boot the game up, it goes to this menu, and I left the manual at home, any clue on how to get it to boot normal, or is this a time thing and it will go to attract mode after x time?

18AED3C2-39B8-4B84-961E-912BD8684229 (resized).jpeg

#1504 1 year ago

Make sure your 3 advance buttons are in the up position on the inside of the coin door. Shut the machine off. When you turn it back on, it should be in regular attract mode.

20181121_200732 (resized).jpg
#1505 1 year ago
Quoted from epeabs:

Make sure your 3 advance buttons are in the up position on the inside of the coin door. Shut the machine off. When you turn it back on, it should be in regular attract mode.
[quoted image]

Ahhhh! Ok I’ll try that! Game is at work so when I run back sometime I’ll test and post back. Hoping to clean and have it on route soon! I put one game on today just to test, man it was fun, so glad I started to like solid state games!

#1506 1 year ago
Quoted from epeabs:

Make sure your 3 advance buttons are in the up position on the inside of the coin door. Shut the machine off. When you turn it back on, it should be in regular attract mode.
[quoted image]

The position of the door switches will not affect the machine upon boot up. Also, only the middle one has up/down latching positions.

Vibe - your game is booting to audit mode. Are the batteries good? Holder good? Battery power getting to the ram? Or did you install nvram?

Once in audit mode, you can turn the machine on/off quickly to get it to attract mode. Or use the coin door switches to travel through the menus. This doesn't fix the underlying issue, and you will have to do it each power up.

#1507 1 year ago
Quoted from gutz:

The position of the door switches will not affect the machine upon boot up. Also, only the middle one has up/down latching positions.
Vibe - your game is booting to audit mode. Are the batteries good? Holder good? Battery power getting to the ram? Or did you install nvram?
Once in audit mode, you can turn the machine on/off quickly to get it to attract mode. Or use the coin door switches to travel through the menus. This doesn't fix the underlying issue, and you will have to do it each power up.

My bad. When I have been doing switch/coil/lamp tests, etc. once I turn the game off and turn it back on it boots fine. But as you said the buttons do not affect booting.

#1508 1 year ago
Quoted from gutz:

The position of the door switches will not affect the machine upon boot up. Also, only the middle one has up/down latching positions.
Vibe - your game is booting to audit mode. Are the batteries good? Holder good? Battery power getting to the ram? Or did you install nvram?
Once in audit mode, you can turn the machine on/off quickly to get it to attract mode. Or use the coin door switches to travel through the menus. This doesn't fix the underlying issue, and you will have to do it each power up.

Mmm no batteries...boards refurbed and the AA holder is still empty. So you’re sayin I need some batteries....

#1509 1 year ago
Quoted from northvibe:

Mmm no batteries...boards refurbed and the AA holder is still empty. So you’re sayin I need some batteries....

you need batteries unless the "refurber" installed nvram.

After replacing the batteries, it will go into audit mode the first power up. Turn it off for a few seconds then turn it back on. It should now always boot into attract mode (with good batteries).

ALSO - remote mount those batteries once you get the rest of the issues sorted out.

#1510 1 year ago
Quoted from gutz:

After replacing the batteries, it will go into audit mode the first power up. Turn it off for a few seconds then turn it back on. It should now always boot into attract mode (with good batteries).

And make sure the door is open while you do this

#1511 1 year ago
Quoted from gutz:

ALSO - remote mount those batteries once you get the rest of the issues sorted out.

Better just to install NVRAM.

#1512 1 year ago

Happy Black Knight Friday to All!!!

#1513 1 year ago

Happy day for me! To follow up on my earlier issue I read another thread and found out about a possible grounding issue from the top two screws on the driver board touching the mounting bracket in the backbox. I removed the MPU and driver board, added some electrical tape to the screw holes for the driver board mount for insulation and reassembled and now my switch issues have been resolved! Hope this helps others out there.

1 week later
#1514 1 year ago

I have a few questions.

I had a lower right flipper that seemed weak. I rebuilt 3 of the 4, and the lower right still wasn’t able to get the ball near the ramp. However after looking, seems like the wrong coil?

Lower right
E455B500-70E4-4F85-B4B0-548710D89C1F (resized).jpeg

Lower left
87B3CC86-F005-4A44-B43F-62630E657362 (resized).jpeg

Also, the left upper flipper, to replace the switch I was taking off the entire bracket, but one screw is under the pf. Are people using short flat head or taking off the upper pf? And actually how do you take off the upper pf?

5F73C98F-6918-4471-95B4-627E3C7CB919 (resized).jpeg

#1515 1 year ago
Quoted from northvibe:

seems like the wrong coil?

Ummmm... Yea.. 50volt coils on a 28 volt circuit.?????

#1516 1 year ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Ummmm... Yea.. 50volt coils on a 28 volt circuit.?????

The two left coils are correct, right? The 30-750?

The two right sides are incorrect. ( lower and upper)

#1517 1 year ago
Quoted from northvibe:

The two left coils are correct, right? The 30-750?
The two right sides are incorrect. ( lower and upper)

Pulled up the manual from ipdb. Confirmed the coil list, all flippers are the 30-750, ordering 2 to replace the two rights.

The one thing I want to confirm is the drop target springs. I can't find any info on those. Are they the standard pbl drop target reset?
https://www.pinballlife.com/drop-target-reset-spring.html

I have the sleeve kit from marco and when I do the drops. I want to pull them apart, clean and replace the spring. A few of them are not dropping easily like below

#1518 1 year ago
Quoted from northvibe:

Pulled up the manual from ipdb. Confirmed the coil list, all flippers are the 30-750, ordering 2 to replace the two rights.
The one thing I want to confirm is the drop target springs. I can't find any info on those. Are they the standard pbl drop target reset?
https://www.pinballlife.com/drop-target-reset-spring.html
I have the sleeve kit from marco and when I do the drops. I want to pull them apart, clean and replace the spring. A few of them are not dropping easily like below

The back springs are quite adjustable, just give them a slight bend

#1519 1 year ago
Quoted from northvibe:

Pulled up the manual from ipdb. Confirmed the coil list, all flippers are the 30-750, ordering 2 to replace the two rights.
The one thing I want to confirm is the drop target springs. I can't find any info on those. Are they the standard pbl drop target reset?
https://www.pinballlife.com/drop-target-reset-spring.html
I have the sleeve kit from marco and when I do the drops. I want to pull them apart, clean and replace the spring. A few of them are not dropping easily like below

Black Knight uses part number 10-364 as the return spring. https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-flipper-extension-spring.html

You can use the Planetary Pinball online parts manuals to look at exploded diagrams with part numbers of most every mechanism.

That being said, your problem more likely is from dirt and oxidation than the return spring. Disassemble and clean all the parts of the drop target. Use some metal polish or Novus 2 to clean and polish all the parts that rub. The flat tension "spring" (flat tab of metal. on the back of the drop target) being oxidized and or dirty is the #1 cause of slow/sticky drops IME in this type drop targets. Use no, none, zero lubricants when re-assembling drop targets.

#1520 1 year ago

Rejoining the Black Knight club after 7 years. Sold my BK -among others- back then to acquire an Addams, and it's one I always said I'd own again if I got the chance. The chance came a couple of months ago when a fellow pinhead put some of his projects up for sale. I've only done some minor work since, but I thought I'd share. First up, send the CPU to Clive. Check. Picked up a gray Repro BG from CPR, along with a new plastics set and did some cleaning and touch up (see the eagle claw.) I need to touch up all of the inserts, and finish up the cleaning, which will happen...soon.

arrival (resized).jpglower pf (resized).jpgUpper pf (resized).jpgbird after (resized).JPG
#1521 1 year ago

Hey all, If you don't want to overspend on an LED kit. Here's a diagram I've put together of how I lit mine using all comet bulbs. It lights up all the dark areas with Comet's matrix system (super easy to use). The only thing I haven't done yet is install the blue "cave" light because I haven't done an entire tear down of the playfield. Hope this helps some of you out. I will post a speread sheet with the specific bulbs later.

EDIT: Should be 44 total LEDs in the head

BK - BACKBOX LED (resized).jpgBK - PLAYFIELD LED (resized).jpg

20181015_210816 (resized).jpg

#1522 1 year ago

...and as promised, here's the Lamp Schedule.

BK - LAMP SCHEDULE (resized).jpg
#1523 1 year ago
Quoted from bobnatlanta:

Picked up a gray Repro BG from CPR

How does that backglass look? I'm debating the mirrored one or whether I should save the $100 and just get the non-mirrored.

Thanks!

#1524 1 year ago

Mirrored.

Next question.

#1525 1 year ago

Nicely LED Black Knight,well done!
Might take you up on that LED list later on...Debating a hardtop with myself right know.
I know i don't have the talent to bring back my playfield from the deads so...leaning toward a hardtop.
Sacrilege?

#1526 1 year ago
Quoted from Andre:

Nicely LED Black Knight,well done!
Might take you up on that LED list later on...Debating a hardtop with myself right know.
I know i don't have the talent to bring back my playfield from the deads so...leaning toward a hardtop.
Sacrilege?

Thanks! Sacrilege?! Nope. You are bringing back the shine to an old machine.

On another note here is a video of the LED'd game someone somewhere else asked about:

#1527 1 year ago

If anybody is watching that new Kurt Russell movie on Netflix "The Christmas Chronicles".....

Keep a close eye on the background in the garage scene. Our favorite machine makes a guest appearance, and unlike movies of old, the pins don't get smashed.

-Hans

#1528 1 year ago
Quoted from HHaase:

If anybody is watching that new Kurt Russell movie on Netflix "The Christmas Chronicles".....
Keep a close eye on the background in the garage scene. Our favorite machine makes a guest appearance, and unlike movies of old, the pins don't get smashed.
-Hans

It was surprisingly a pretty good movie.

#1529 1 year ago

I think I know the answer to what I'm about to ask but just wanted to be sure so I'll ask it here. The Jet bumper coil in my BK is stuck ON. This is the only problem. I am guessing the TIP102/120 for this coil is most likely fried and needs replaced? Also, when I look at the manual it says transistors Q4 and Q6 control the coil. Why are there two TIP102/120's for this coil when all others have one TIP and a corresponding smaller pre-driver transistor? Also, could it be Q4 or Q6's pre-driver transistors (Q5 and Q3) causing the issue? The coil locks on instantly when the machine is turned on. Everything else in the machine works perfectly. Aside from fried transistors is there any other common problem to check for that could cause this issue?

Thanks!

#1530 1 year ago
Quoted from MoSeS_1592:

I think I know the answer to what I'm about to ask but just wanted to be sure so I'll ask it here. The Jet bumper coil in my BK is stuck ON. This is the only problem. I am guessing the TIP102/120 for this coil is most likely fried and needs replaced? Also, when I look at the manual it says transistors Q4 and Q6 control the coil. Why are there two TIP102/120's for this coil when all others have one TIP and a corresponding smaller pre-driver transistors? Also, could it be Q4 or Q6's pre-driver transistors casing the issue? The coil locks on instantly when the machine is turned on. Everything else in the machine works perfectly. Aside from fried transistors is there any other common problem to check for that could cause this issue?
Thanks!

Ironic, I just got my CPU and driver boards back from a minor repair. Installed boards and while trying to go through tests with the advance button on the coin door, my jet bumper is sticking on as soon as I press the advance button and I am blowing my solenoid fuse. I was just going to post about this. My switches are not stuck closed, but I'm not seeing anything to cause this visually. I had rebuilt one of my 36 pin playfield to backbox connectors and had incorrectly installed one pin knocking out a couple items on the CPU and the driver. I have triple checked my 36 pin after realizing my error and it is now correct.

#1531 1 year ago
Quoted from MoSeS_1592:

I think I know the answer to what I'm about to ask but just wanted to be sure so I'll ask it here. The Jet bumper coil in my BK is stuck ON. This is the only problem. I am guessing the TIP102/120 for this coil is most likely fried and needs replaced? Also, when I look at the manual it says transistors Q4 and Q6 control the coil. Why are there two TIP102/120's for this coil when all others have one TIP and a corresponding smaller pre-driver transistor? Also, could it be Q4 or Q6's pre-driver transistors (Q5 and Q3) causing the issue? The coil locks on instantly when the machine is turned on. Everything else in the machine works perfectly. Aside from fried transistors is there any other common problem to check for that could cause this issue?
Thanks!

I think the manual has a misprint there. The line above is also wrong. Q5 is the pre-driver for Q6, which is what drives the pop bumper. Q6, Q5, IC8, IC6 could all be the cause.

#1532 1 year ago
Quoted from Black_Knight:

Mirrored.
Next question.

Absolutely agree. I should have waited a month or two, as the gray ones were the only ones available from CPR a few months back when I was looking.

#1533 1 year ago
Quoted from zacaj:

I think the manual has a misprint there. The line above is also wrong. Q5 is the pre-driver for Q6, which is what drives the pop bumper. Q6, Q5, IC8, IC6 could all be the cause.

Thanks for the info. What type of transistor is the pre driver Q5, and are there any substitutes or other compatible transistors (similar to tip102/120 cross compatibility)?

#1534 1 year ago
Quoted from MoSeS_1592:

Thanks for the info. What type of transistor is the pre driver Q5, and are there any substitutes or other compatible transistors (similar to tip102/120 cross compatibility)?

I think it's a 2n4401 if my memory serves. Don't know of any replacements

#1535 1 year ago

I'm hoping to put this issue to bed. Fresh boards, and it boots up. When I credit a game, it immediately locks the jet bumper. I just replaced the lower half of the jet bumper switch that is actuated by the spoon and I have replaced the diode just in case. And it is doing the same thing. I feel I am so close to finally having a complete up and running BK. Any other thoughts?

20181211_220921 (resized).jpg
#1536 1 year ago
Quoted from epeabs:

I'm hoping to put this issue to bed. Fresh boards, and it boots up. When I credit a game, it immediately locks the jet bumper. I just replaced the lower half of the jet bumper switch that is actuated by the spoon and I have replaced the diode just in case. And it is doing the same thing. I feel I am so close to finally having a complete up and running BK. Any other thoughts?
[quoted image]

Try disconnecting 2J13. If it still locks on you have a board issue. If it doesn't something on that line is shorted to ground

#1537 1 year ago
Quoted from epeabs:

I'm hoping to put this issue to bed. Fresh boards, and it boots up. When I credit a game, it immediately locks the jet bumper. I just replaced the lower half of the jet bumper switch that is actuated by the spoon and I have replaced the diode just in case. And it is doing the same thing. I feel I am so close to finally having a complete up and running BK. Any other thoughts?
[quoted image]

There are 2 switches on the pops (and slings). The one with the diode does nothing but add score and sound effects. The one closest to the spoon is what activates the solenoid. Make sure that switch is open when the ring is at rest (not being pressed). Make sure that silver capacitor is not shorted.

#1538 1 year ago
Quoted from zacaj:

Try disconnecting 2J13. If it still locks on you have a board issue. If it doesn't something on that line is shorted to ground

I just tried pulling 2J13 and when crediting a game the jet locked on. What transistor, etc. should I suspect? Odd, I just got the boards back and everything tested fine, but maybe I bumped something while installing or something.

#1539 1 year ago
Quoted from epeabs:

I just tried pulling 2J13 and when crediting a game the jet locked on. What transistor, etc. should I suspect? Odd, I just got the boards back and everything tested fine, but maybe I bumped something while installing or something.

I guess, to be doubly sure, you could also disconnect 2J12. If it still locked on, you have a short in the wiring. Very rare though.

Otherwise, Q6, Q5, and IC6 are the prime suspects. IC8 is probably fine, since that's what enables/disables the solenoids in game over.

pasted_image (resized).png
#1540 1 year ago

I have a weebly solenoid saver fuse board for the special solenoids. When I remove the fuse for Q6 the jet bumper does not lock on. I am going to stop by my local electronics supply on the way home. Q6 is a TIP122, is Q5 the same, and what is the IC6, a 7408?

Sorry, just saw the post above about the Q5.

#1541 1 year ago
Quoted from epeabs:

I have a weebly solenoid saver fuse board for the special solenoids. When I remove the fuse for Q6 the jet bumper does not lock on. I am going to stop by my local electronics supply on the way home. Q6 is a TIP122, is Q5 the same, and what is the IC6, a 7408?
Sorry, just saw the post above about the Q5.

2n4401 and 7408, yes. Can't hurt to grab a 7402, too.

I'm not familiar with how the solenoid saver is wired, does it just go between the playfield and 2J12?

#1542 1 year ago

Solenoid saver looks like this. Yes, between playfield and 2J12.

20181119_210943 (resized).jpg
#1543 1 year ago
Quoted from epeabs:

Solenoid saver looks like this. Yes, between playfield and 2J12.
[quoted image]

That again implies a board issue then

#1544 1 year ago

Whoa, that solenoid saver, I didn't know about. Just ordered one for my BK. It's going on route and that would be super sucky if a coil locked on.

#1545 1 year ago
Quoted from northvibe:

Whoa, that solenoid saver, I didn't know about. Just ordered one for my BK. It's going on route and that would be super sucky if a coil locked on.

Super easy 10 minute install.

#1546 1 year ago

I'm starting to think this BK is possessed. I tested the Q6 transistor and it was faulty. I removed the driver board and removed the old Q6 TIP 122 and soldered in a new TIP122 at Q6 and reinstalled the board. I didn't touch anything else. Now, when I turn on the machine, my playfield inserts, player one and credit displays flash on and then off in a split second. Then just my GI stays on with no inserts and no displays. I can't start a game. Jeeessshhhh. I am at wits end.

Screenshot_20181212-200446_Gallery (resized).jpg
#1547 1 year ago

Bump......anyone have any thoughts?

#1548 1 year ago

Seems like it's not booting now. Are the leds on the MPU turning off? does the self test say anything? All connectors in correctly and fuses all good?

#1549 1 year ago

Yes. Although self test doesn't seem to do anything when button is pressed. Been on quick vacation with my wife and coming home tonight. Hopefully get back into this soon.

#1550 1 year ago
Quoted from epeabs:

Yes. Although self test doesn't seem to do anything when button is pressed. Been on quick vacation with my wife and coming home tonight. Hopefully get back into this soon.

Let us know what the LED display on the CPU board is doing. Cycling through the numbers and turning off or getting stuck at a number....

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