(Topic ID: 54503)

Black Knight Club...Members Only!


By mof

7 years ago



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There are 2277 posts in this topic. You are on page 28 of 46.
#1351 1 year ago
Quoted from SpaceAce:

Hey @schwaggs, Actually, it doesn't make any sound at all for between 20-45 minutes (silence), then all at once, it comes in (both voice and sound effects). But it's like little chirps at first. Like... you will get a glimpse of sound here and there. And then when it finally decides to kick in, it's all within about 5 minutes, and then it plays perfectly. I am working recapping and reflowing it tonight. I am not sure if I will get it finished tonight or not (because I really want to play it some more). I found a couple posts about how to troubleshoot it this afternoon, and hopefully between that and your suggestions I will figure out something. I went to Fry's tonight in search of sockets, but I am not paying that much. I will get it from Mouser, or Amazon r something.

It is nice to have Frys for emergencies, isn't it!

Good luck and let us know how you make out. Recapping is a great place to start. Don't skip the 1uf caps, they are coupling capacitors and can cause all sorts of audio quality issues. If you have time before recapping and reflowing, try pressing the audio diagnostic button on the sound board while in the first 20-45 minutes. If that doen't work, you can feel confidenty the issue is with the sound board (most likely).

#1352 1 year ago

Finished reassembling my playfield tonight after clearcoating, and installed it in the Knight. After tweaking the trough switches (still needs a bit more) I can get it into a game but I have intermittent flippers. They have worked a couple of times, but mostly non working. Gonna hit it tomorrow after some sleep, but didn't know if anyone had any thoughts. Not sure if it makes a difference, but it has a Rottendog board in it.

#1353 1 year ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

It is nice to have Frys for emergencies, isn't it!
Good luck and let us know how you make out. Recapping is a great place to start. Don't skip the 1uf caps, they are coupling capacitors and can cause all sorts of audio quality issues. If you have time before recapping and reflowing, try pressing the audio diagnostic button on the sound board while in the first 20-45 minutes. If that doen't work, you can feel confidenty the issue is with the sound board (most likely).

So... I was already disassembled and working when you wrote this. Previous to this run through of fixes, (back in the olden days)(4 or 5 years ago) I had this same issue. This is one I knew I would be fighting. I could press the button and get the run through of sounds, while there would be no sound in game. This told me that the issue was I believe off board. I just reflowed the MPU connector prior to working on the sound board. So... this didn't help anything. It could be a wiring issue, I suppose, but then I would have some sounds, and not others, right? So, it has to be before that too. I were a betting men, I would think it's deeper in the MPU, but I haven't really gotten to just explore the process yet as there's some maintenance I know I have to do. In the past, I would go in and get sidetracked and sidetracked, and sidetracked... So this time, I am going through all the bits I KNOW I really need to do... as if nothing else, a baseline. Just so I know I can rule X, Y, and Z out, without having to wonder if that might be part of the problem. I mean, sure, I could easily hork something up, but I am really paying attention and reflowing carefully.

Now... I have not been here long enough to start ribbing folks like vid1900, so I wont. Buuuut... Many years ago, he said that he would write a Williams Sound Repair thread. All, I can say is... Man, if you write it, it will get read. You have laid down some great chunks of knowledge here, and I really do appreciate it. Heck, I have read and re-read the bullet proofing thread at least 3 times, and some sections of it many more. I am doing my homework this time and trying to make the best of my time.

#1354 1 year ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

It is nice to have Frys for emergencies, isn't it!

For emergencies, yes, Fry's is nice. But they are going to be receiving a call from me today. I am going to try to speak with as high up in the management chain as I can go. Man, that place has gone down hill and is still slipping. Trying to find... well anything by tag on the wall is impossible. Good luck in trying to find a price that matches with the thing. I bought a pack of slow blow 4A fuses last night. It was $2.00 more that what the tag above it had said. They do not put prices on the little box of fuses. So... is $2.00 a bank killer? No, but if you have a cart full of unknown prices, it makes it impossible to be efficient money wise.
If I wanted to be a dick about it, I could show them the place that the fuses were hung and the fact that the whole peg was marked with that price were these fuses. I can't speak for all places, but at least in Ga. if it is an item marked, that's what the cost is, and they have to honor it. I was in a hurry as it had taken far too long to find the things which I decided were too expensive.

That's another thing. They used to have all the sockets, fuses, components... all in the same area. Now they are spread out into like 7 or 8 areas. Talking about a cluster.

Sorry about getting a little moody here, but dang... fix yer store.

#1355 1 year ago
Quoted from SpaceAce:

It could be a wiring issue, I suppose, but then I would have some sounds, and not others, right? So, it has to be before that too. I were a betting men, I would think it's deeper in the MPU, but I haven't really gotten to just explore the process yet

If it was on the MPU it can pretty much only be the PIA. On the sound board IC5, 6, or maybe 10 could have failed in a way to prevent inputs from getting to the board but still let the test button work. You can verify it's not the wiring by grounding the individual pins on J3 of the sound board.

#1356 1 year ago

After adjusting the shooter trough switches I was able to play one actual game. But only one. Now I have my ball lock solenoid repeatedly firing upon startup. I've tried adjusting the lock switches, but it is still doing it. So the lock trough repeatedly fires or it doesn't and the shooter trough fires two balls into lane instead. If that happens the flippers don't work. It also will seem to load a second or third player. I'm perplexed. Sorry if this is confusing, its difficult to explain.

#1357 1 year ago
Quoted from epeabs:

After adjusting the shooter trough switches I was able to play one actual game. But only one. Now I have my ball lock solenoid repeatedly firing upon startup. I've tried adjusting the lock switches, but it is still doing it. So the lock trough repeatedly fires or it doesn't and the shooter trough fires two balls into lane instead. If that happens the flippers don't work. It also will seem to load a second or third player. I'm perplexed. Sorry if this is confusing, its difficult to explain.

If you are sure your switches are adjusted properly and the switch blades and wiring are not shorting to other things, I would look at the switch diodes.

Remove all the balls so every switch should be open. Use you meter on Diode test to check all the switches in the trough, ball lock, etc. You can test diodes on switches without removing them as long as the switch is open.

#1358 1 year ago

So... I discovered a miraculous feature of my machine. It makes screws disappear into thin air.
How to make this work.

1. Try changing a bulb and loosening the screw so you can get the bulb out.
2. Accidentally drop the screw.
3. While looking in the wrong place for where you think it will drop, it must hit the speaker.

So you start the search. You will see... it's gone. Nowhere to be found. Poof! Pretty amazing stuff Williams was able to make.

#1359 1 year ago
Quoted from zacaj:

If it was on the MPU it can pretty much only be the PIA. On the sound board IC5, 6, or maybe 10 could have failed in a way to prevent inputs from getting to the board but still let the test button work. You can verify it's not the wiring by grounding the individual pins on J3 of the sound board.

So... I got home and went to work on the machine. I was working on the sound and got all the soldering finished (well finished for now).
I put it back in the machine. I used an alligator jumper wire and clipped onto the bracket that holds the sound board (ground) and touched the connector points. It made the sounds. I went to the MPU connector and tried it there. I had sounds. So, both the connector is good, and the wires are good. Immediately the machine had sound when I turned it on. ??? Really? I played a game and reveled in the sound.

I then turned off the machine and restarted it. NO SOUND. Grrrrrrrr. What the fffffffactory settings.
So... I pressed the diagnostic button, and it played just fine (and normal, of not faster (than I am used to)). I then tried the grounding the pins, and it no longer works. This makes no sense.

So... what does work. The amp, the chips (I have both sounds and voice). I have proper positive voltages. The negative voltage is running -18v.

#1360 1 year ago
Quoted from SpaceAce:

So... I got home and went to work on the machine. I was working on the sound and got all the soldering finished (well finished for now).
I put it back in the machine. I used an alligator jumper wire and clipped onto the bracket that holds the sound board (ground) and touched the connector points. It made the sounds. I went to the MPU connector and tried it there. I had sounds. So, both the connector is good, and the wires are good. Immediately the machine had sound when I turned it on. ??? Really? I played a game and reveled in the sound.
I then turned off the machine and restarted it. NO SOUND. Grrrrrrrr. What the fffffffactory settings.
So... I pressed the diagnostic button, and it played just fine (and normal, of not faster (than I am used to)). I then tried the grounding the pins, and it no longer works. This makes no sense.
So... what does work. The amp, the chips (I have both sounds and voice). I have proper positive voltages. The negative voltage is running -18v.

Must be an issue on the sound board then. I'd suspect IC6 first

#1361 1 year ago

Well....Amazing what you find when you start looking at areas closely. I found one of my wires going to the "right" ball eject switch got pinched under the playfield metal "strap". Loosened screws and removed wire, then had to "fix" the "grounded out" wire. Once done I was able to play a game. But realized I need to adjust all my drain switches, spinner switch, etc. since none of them are registering. But the interesting part is that the pop bumper which I rebuilt is not working when hit. But I can activate it by hand, and when I do, the outhole solenoid is firing. Definitely some more work to be done.

#1362 1 year ago
Quoted from epeabs:

Well....Amazing what you find when you start looking at areas closely. I found one of my wires going to the "right" ball eject switch got pinched under the playfield metal "strap". Loosened screws and removed wire, then had to "fix" the "grounded out" wire. Once done I was able to play a game. But realized I need to adjust all my drain switches, spinner switch, etc. since none of them are registering. But the interesting part is that the pop bumper which I rebuilt is not working when hit. But I can activate it by hand, and when I do, the outhole solenoid is firing. Definitely some more work to be done.

Sounds like you have a couple issues there. First, the pop bumpers and slings are special solenoids in that the switch directly activates the transistor to activate the device. There is also a switch in the switch matrix on pops and slings that are there only for scoring the hit.

Problem 1 - the pop bumper activation switch is not adjusted properly or the special switch input or the drive transistor for the pop bumper is not working. you will see 2 sets of switches. One should be activated by the spoon (thats the one that leads to the special solenoid switch input and activates the coil) and the scoring switch that should be activated when the solenoid pulls in. Sounds like you may have the switch stack installed backwards or not setup quite right. Check your "before pictures" and double check you have it setup correctly.
Problem 2 - you have a switch matrix problem in that the CPU thinks the "Lower Eject hole" (switch 24) is closing when the pop bumper scoring switch (21) is activated. Could be a bad diode or a row/column issue.

#1363 1 year ago
Quoted from SpaceAce:

So... I got home and went to work on the machine. I was working on the sound and got all the soldering finished (well finished for now).
I put it back in the machine. I used an alligator jumper wire and clipped onto the bracket that holds the sound board (ground) and touched the connector points. It made the sounds. I went to the MPU connector and tried it there. I had sounds. So, both the connector is good, and the wires are good. Immediately the machine had sound when I turned it on. ??? Really? I played a game and reveled in the sound.
I then turned off the machine and restarted it. NO SOUND. Grrrrrrrr. What the fffffffactory settings.
So... I pressed the diagnostic button, and it played just fine (and normal, of not faster (than I am used to)). I then tried the grounding the pins, and it no longer works. This makes no sense.
So... what does work. The amp, the chips (I have both sounds and voice). I have proper positive voltages. The negative voltage is running -18v.

Great progress!

Could be IC6 like zacaj suggested. To test IC6, remove the input to the sound board (J3). With your meter set to DC volts in the 5v range, test pin 13 of IC6 (red on pin 13 and black on ground - cabinet braid is fine). It should be close to zero volts.

Then ground one of the pins on J3 (like you were doing earlier) and measure pin 13. It should be close to 5V with one of the input pins grounded.

If either test fails, IC6 is for sure the culprit. If those tests pass, we need to keep looking.

#1364 1 year ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

Great progress!
Could be IC6 like zacaj suggested. To test IC6, remove the input to the sound board (J3). With your meter set to DC volts in the 5v range, test pin 13 of IC6 (red on pin 13 and black on ground - cabinet braid is fine). It should be close to zero volts.
Then ground one of the pins on J3 (like you were doing earlier) and measure pin 13. It should be close to 5V with one of the input pins grounded.
If either test fails, IC6 is for sure the culprit. If those tests pass, we need to keep looking.

Awesome. Thanks. I will do it as soon as I get home tonight.

#1365 1 year ago
Quoted from SpaceAce:

So... I discovered a miraculous feature of my machine. It makes screws disappear into thin air.
How to make this work.
1. Try changing a bulb and loosening the screw so you can get the bulb out.
2. Accidentally drop the screw.
3. While looking in the wrong place for where you think it will drop, it must hit the speaker.
So you start the search. You will see... it's gone. Nowhere to be found. Poof! Pretty amazing stuff Williams was able to make.

This little $2 telescoping magnet is a life saver. Hold it against the screw head with one hand and your screw driver in the other hand. No more wondering screws. Also works as a lost screw divining wand!

1538146512280-1381918481 (resized).jpg
#1366 1 year ago

Would someone be willing to make a high resolution scan of their upper left plastic? This is the one that looks sort of like Florida.
If so, please lay a ruler next to it so I can get proper scale. I am going to CAD this thing. I do not want to purchase a whole set of plastics, just for one piece.

I have seen a few videos on Youtube about how to make your own plastics, but they all use printed decals which I suspect are not as rich in color. I am looking at what it would take to actually do a stamp, or pseudo silk screen. I am still playing with it, but I do need a form to play with. My machine came without this one. I do need to make a metal shield though. I am pretty sure that one of these days the trough is going to kick a ball out and that glass is going to shatter if I don't get something in there to redirect it.

#1367 1 year ago
Quoted from chaskett:

This little $2 telescoping magnet is a life saver. Hold it against the screw head with one hand and your screw driver in the other hand. No more wondering screws. Also works as a lost screw divining wand!
[quoted image]

Heh... This is a great idea.
So... I am discovering that I need more hands. I need a hand to direct the metal lamp holder, one to hold the screw with the divining wand, one to hold the screwdriver, and redirect it to screw into the hole all the while avoiding all the wiring around it(held gently out of the way by yet another hand). I was laughing at how silly I felt... I just couldn't get my fingers into the right position to make it all come together. I then tried from the other side of the table, and it just came together. So, I learned something there. There's an optimal place to do certain jobs.

#1368 1 year ago
Quoted from Toyguy:

As an aside for future readers, it is quite simple to remove the drop targets in order to re-sticker them. To start, make sure the targets are reset. You can do this easily by manually raising the reset bracket attached to the coil.
On each drop target bank you will notice 2 metal bars going across the bank frame, each with 4 screws in it. Remove the lower bar completely but leave the two end screws in place to hold the coil bracket loosely or it may fall out along with the coil. Alternatively, you can also loosen the last screw and swing the bar out of the way but I found it just as easy to take it off completely. Next, remove two screws at the bottom of the target assembly that hold the switch plate on and remove the switch plate. You can let it dangle or tie it up.
Once that's done, support the bottom of a target with your fingertip and from the top of the playfield, release the target to drop down. The spring will pull it down and you use your finger to keep it from flinging off. The target will then simply come out.
Clean the target up, taking care to check and tighten any loose screws holding the copper spring or the coil spring in place. Remove any lube as none is needed and re-apply your decals. To reinstall, reverse the process. Take the loose end of the attached spring and loop it over the retaining finger on the target frame. Use one of the other targets as a reference. Once the spring is hooked, ease the target up into the frame while holding the copper spring flat against the target until it slips under the upper crossbar. Once it's under the crossbar, just slide the target all the way up until it resets and hangs in the up position. With a flashlight, verify that the spring loop is caught on the retaining pin and the copper spring is under the upper crossbar. Reattach the lower crossbar and manually raise the reset plunger. Then fit the switch plate back into place and secure with the 2 screws. Check the adjustment on the leaf switches and give them a quick cleaning with a business card or burnisher. That's it! Rinse and repeat...
It's easy once you've done the first one or two. I've done my two lower banks. When I do the upper ones next I will try to add some photos here also.
Post edited by Toyguy: Slight modification to the steps, to suggest removing the switch plate.

I book marked this post a month or so ago. It was super helpful installing my new 3d printed drop targets with custom decals!

20180928_114801 (resized).jpg
#1369 1 year ago
Quoted from SpaceAce:

Heh... This is a great idea.
So... I am discovering that I need more hands. I need a hand to direct the metal lamp holder, one to hold the screw with the divining wand, one to hold the screwdriver, and redirect it to screw into the hole all the while avoiding all the wiring around it(held gently out of the way by yet another hand). I was laughing at how silly I felt... I just couldn't get my fingers into the right position to make it all come together. I then tried from the other side of the table, and it just came together. So, I learned something there. There's an optimal place to do certain jobs.

Buy a screwdriver with a magnetic tip...

I have a wand as well. Actually I have 3 of them. And a magnetic bowl so screws don't go flying around. Also, a tip I learned from an excellent tech, if you don't have a magnetic bowl, stick all of the screws you remove to the speaker magnet. You will always know where they are.

An yes I understand that you are talking about when you drop a screw and have no clue where it goes as it plays plinko through the uplifted playfield. Been there, done that many times!

#1370 1 year ago
Quoted from SpaceAce:

Would someone be willing to make a high resolution scan of their upper left plastic? This is the one that looks sort of like Florida.
If so, please lay a ruler next to it so I can get proper scale. I am going to CAD this thing. I do not want to purchase a whole set of plastics, just for one piece.
I have seen a few videos on Youtube about how to make your own plastics, but they all use printed decals which I suspect are not as rich in color. I am looking at what it would take to actually do a stamp, or pseudo silk screen. I am still playing with it, but I do need a form to play with. My machine came without this one. I do need to make a metal shield though. I am pretty sure that one of these days the trough is going to kick a ball out and that glass is going to shatter if I don't get something in there to redirect it.

Pm me a address and I will send you one (it goes under the plastic )I probably have that plastic too.
IMG_4627 (resized).JPG

#1371 1 year ago
Quoted from chaskett:

I book marked this post a month or so ago. It was super helpful installing my new 3d printed drop targets with custom decals![quoted image]

Are you using PETG? What model are you using for these? Where'd you source the decals?

Have any luck printing other cool parts?

Thanks in advance!

#1372 1 year ago

So... I played for like an hour tonight. The conclusion... 1. This is a great game, and 2. I suck (though the margarita was probably not helping either).
I got up to a massive 270K tonight. The game eventually was over and then I looked up to see the default 2,500,000 flashing in between my high score.

Question 1. Is there any way reset this thing to a far lower number so I can play against myself and not a crazy impossible level that I wont reach... well for a while (cough... ever)? I found 13, which I changed, but it doesn't seem to have made a difference.

2. In watching some internets webz videos, I have noticed that a lot of people are nudging the machine. Is this an acceptable part of play? I mean I know that there's electronics at play to keep people from getting carried away, but is nudging a thing? Is it considered poor play, or just part of play?

In repair news... Interestingly when I turned the machine tonight, I had full on sound from the start. I played the crap out of it for like an hour. Not an issue. Then I turned it off as an experiment. I left it off for about 10 seconds. When I turned it on, there was no sound. So... while it was on, it was rock solid. After a brief repower, it was completely gone. That's a little odd. I will try this again tomorrow morning.

#1373 1 year ago

Nudging is definitely a thing. They're designed with that in mind. As long as you're not tilting every ball you're fine. I nudge constantly and keep my tilts fairly tight. A skill all in its own

After setting the backup high score you need to actually reset them using the button in the door.

#1374 1 year ago
Quoted from SpaceAce:

So... I played for like an hour tonight. The conclusion... 1. This is a great game, and 2. I suck (though the margarita was probably not helping either).
I got up to a massive 270K tonight. The game eventually was over and then I looked up to see the default 2,500,000 flashing in between my high score.
Question 1. Is there any way reset this thing to a far lower number so I can play against myself and not a crazy impossible level that I wont reach... well for a while (cough... ever)? I found 13, which I changed, but it doesn't seem to have made a difference.
2. In watching some internets webz videos, I have noticed that a lot of people are nudging the machine. Is this an acceptable part of play? I mean I know that there's electronics at play to keep people from getting carried away, but is nudging a thing? Is it considered poor play, or just part of play?
In repair news... Interestingly when I turned the machine tonight, I had full on sound from the start. I played the crap out of it for like an hour. Not an issue. Then I turned it off as an experiment. I left it off for about 10 seconds. When I turned it on, there was no sound. So... while it was on, it was rock solid. After a brief repower, it was completely gone. That's a little odd. I will try this again tomorrow morning.

Setting 13 is the default high score setting. Set it as low as you want, reboot the machine then reset the high score table using the "reset high score" button.

I find the key to this game is keep the ball on the upper playfield and master the magnasave buttons. There are some shots on the lower playfield where using the magnasave is mandatory. The bonus multiplier loop for example.

#1375 1 year ago

I'm trying to work through some of my issues. I've started by making sure the Rottendog is working, by starting from the self test and it is working properly. In coil test, all my coils fire including the pop bumper. I next went to switch test and it is stuck on left kicker #17 saying that it is stuck, but in the couple games I have played, the left kicker works fine. Currently when loading balls, it will eject them into the ball trough, but once the third ball triggers the switch it is not playing sounds as it had done, and it won't allow me to start a game. While I have had a game going I have manually tried to activate most of the switches and they do not register. Example, left and right outlanes, behind the kicker lanes, spinner, etc. (all the drop targets are working fine). Also when playing a game sometimes it will just lose flippers altogether. When clearcoating the playfield I never stripped the back of the playfield, just the top. So I haven't removed or adjusted these switches during the clearcoating. I'm not thinking that it is a matter of readjusting all these switches since the clearcoating isn't the thickness of say a "hardtop".

#1376 1 year ago
Quoted from pb456:

Are you using PETG? What model are you using for these? Where'd you source the decals?
Have any luck printing other cool parts?
Thanks in advance!

All the information is in this topic. It is a williams drop target posted on thingaverse. I don't have a printer, but my library does. I was suggesting their strongest material, but they thought PLA would be best because of the smoothness. They thought the strength would be good enough. Time will tell. If i did it over, I would remove the ridges in the rear and make the target thicker.

The graphic from one of the posters in this topic. I printed on printable vinyl and laminated with one sided self adhering laminate. I printed extra if you're interested.

I have printed other parts, but nothing that takes as much abuse as a drop target.

#1377 1 year ago
Quoted from epeabs:

I'm trying to work through some of my issues. I've started by making sure the Rottendog is working, by starting from the self test and it is working properly. In coil test, all my coils fire including the pop bumper. I next went to switch test and it is stuck on left kicker #17 saying that it is stuck, but in the couple games I have played, the left kicker works fine. Currently when loading balls, it will eject them into the ball trough, but once the third ball triggers the switch it is not playing sounds as it had done, and it won't allow me to start a game. While I have had a game going I have manually tried to activate most of the switches and they do not register. Example, left and right outlanes, behind the kicker lanes, spinner, etc. (all the drop targets are working fine). Also when playing a game sometimes it will just lose flippers altogether. When clearcoating the playfield I never stripped the back of the playfield, just the top. So I haven't removed or adjusted these switches during the clearcoating. I'm not thinking that it is a matter of readjusting all these switches since the clearcoating isn't the thickness of say a "hardtop".

There are 2 sets of switches on the slings and pops.

One set on fires the solenoind through the special solenoid inputs on the driver board. These are the switches standing up behind the sling rubber. They directly trigger the drive transistor to make the sling action fast.

There is another switch mounted under the playfield that registers points. This switch is in the switch matrix and what is reported in switch test.

Modern games only have a switch in the switch matrix to both trigger the solenoid and score points. The processing speed of these early computers wasn't fast enough to build them this way.

To troubleshoot what is going on with your switches, remove all the balls from the game. Print out a copy of the switch matrix from the manual. Enter switch test and see if any switches are registering as closed. None should be closed if all the balls are removed. If any are registering as closed, adjust them so they are open.

Now go through the playfield and manually activate each switch and make sure it registers in switch test. Mark all the switches that do not work on your switch matrix printout. This will help you visualize if you have an entire row or column out.

#1378 1 year ago
Quoted from SpaceAce:

I got up to a massive 270K tonight. The game eventually was over and then I looked up to see the default 2,500,000 flashing in between my high score.

I have noticed that a lot of people are nudging the machine. Is this an acceptable part of play? I mean I know that there's electronics at play to keep people from getting carried away, but is nudging a thing?

Yes nudging is part of the game. That's why the tilt bob has a sliding adjustment to make it easier or harder to tilt. Remember you are missing a part of the mechanism though. Marco has the part you are missing and it's not expensive.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/20-6502-A

IMG_4632 (resized).PNG

Since you say you suck I shouldn't post this but take it with a grain of salt because I always have my games set on 5 balls. Yes the glass was on.
IMG_4633 (resized).JPG

#1379 1 year ago
Quoted from Travish:

Remember you are missing a part of the mechanism though.
[quoted image]

Ha Dang... using photographic evidence against me. Yeah, I had looked that up. They have many different versions, but I didn't know which one to grab. I have a Marco order coming up soon I think. I have some plastic posts n such that I need as well.

Quoted from Travish:

Since you say you suck I shouldn't post this but take it with a grain of salt because I always have my games set on 5 balls. Yes the glass was on.
[quoted image]

Wow. That's pretty impressive even with 5. Just curious, how long was that game?

I was rereading the instruction book and playing with the settings. I thought that the total ball in play timer was kinda cool. I explored the game a little in the past, I guess I never really crawled through it. It's been a fascinating ride so far.

epeabs Man, I am sorry for your struggles. I guess it's up to us to encourage you not to give up. So keep on man! Make it go!

#1380 1 year ago

If you can get that lock shot off the plunge (and the loop on hard settings) down, it's just mb all day and the points pile on!

#1381 1 year ago

SpaceAce. I will persevere and the Knight will not slay me. Even the struggles are enjoyable to a point but they do get frustrating after a bit.

#1382 1 year ago

Well, from what I can tell so far is that I have column 5 out. As well as there is an issue with switch #17 which is the right ball ramp. I can't seem to clear it by cleaning the contacts or adjusting the switch. I have checked the diode which is good. Have to take a breather for family stuff. But maybe I'm making some headway.

#1383 1 year ago

Haven't had a chance to delve back into these issues yet. Schwaggs thank you for the Switch Matrix diagram printout direction, it is a great way to visualize potential issues.

img20180930_08401685 (resized).jpg
#1384 1 year ago
Quoted from epeabs:

Haven't had a chance to delve back into these issues yet. Schwaggs thank you for the Switch Matrix diagram printout direction, it is a great way to visualize potential issues.
[quoted image]

Cool, glad it helped! I would work on clearing those 2 switches not in Row 5 first, then see if row 5 is still an issue. Is Ball Roll and Right Ramp stuck on or they will not register when you manually close them? All the switches in Row 5, are they stuck on or will not register?

If those 2 switches are not registering, have a look at the wiring on the switch and make sure the solder joint is solid. Trace the wires from the non-working switch back to the next switch in the line and see if that solder joint is solid. Lightly tug on the wires to make sure the connections are solid.

#1385 1 year ago
Quoted from SpaceAce:

Hey @schwaggs, Actually, it doesn't make any sound at all for between 20-45 minutes (silence), then all at once, it comes in (both voice and sound effects). But it's like little chirps at first. Like... you will get a glimpse of sound here and there. And then when it finally decides to kick in, it's all within about 5 minutes, and then it plays perfectly. I am working recapping and reflowing it tonight. I am not sure if I will get it finished tonight or not (because I really want to play it some more). I found a couple posts about how to troubleshoot it this afternoon, and hopefully between that and your suggestions I will figure out something. I went to Fry's tonight in search of sockets, but I am not paying that much. I will get it from Mouser, or Amazon r something.

Digikey is also a good place

#1386 1 year ago

Schwaggs I have cleared the ball roll tilt and the right ball ramp switches. At this time, column 5 is still out but I have not had a chance to look at it again. In that column none of those switches seem to be registering when I activate them.

#1387 1 year ago
Quoted from epeabs:

Schwaggs I have cleared the ball roll tilt and the right ball ramp switches. At this time, column 5 is still out but I have not had a chance to look at it again. In that column none of those switches seem to be registering when I activate them.

Great! If you had an original board set, I would suspect the header pins or driver for that column. Since you have a RD board, the header pins nor driver shouldn't be the issue unless you accidentally grounded a switch in column 5. I would look at the connector at J2 (on the original driver board, not sure where it is on a RD board). Make sure the wires are seated securely in pin 5 of that connector. Maybe have someone hold a switch closed in that column and push/move the wire in the connector to see if the connection is intermittent.

#1388 1 year ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

Great! If you had an original board set, I would suspect the header pins or driver for that column. Since you have a RD board, the header pins nor driver shouldn't be the issue unless you accidentally grounded a switch in column 5. I would look at the connector at J2 (on the original driver board, not sure where it is on a RD board). Make sure the wires are seated securely in pin 5 of that connector. Maybe have someone hold a switch closed in that column and push/move the wire in the connector to see if the connection is intermittent.

Upon initial inspection J2 seems fine. I was starting to look in that direction. I need to grab a Molex .156 connector kit to have around. If I had one currently I would just replace the female side to be safe. I will follow all my wires going to it to confirm no shorts. I have never played my BK. When I purchased it I went right into my "Resto-Mod". I do have a video of it playing and the pop bumper, etc. was working, although I don't know if it was scoring. So I'm figuring I could have bumped something while working under the playfield. On another note, I would be interested in upgrading a fair amount of my switches to the "Cherry" style microswitches. Cherry brand seem to be a little trickier to find. There are tons of microswitches on Amazon and eBay. Has anyone had anyone positive experience with these "knockoff" versions?

#1389 1 year ago

Maybe it's that screw on the back of the rottendogs that could possibly ground out?

#1390 1 year ago

And where might that screw be?

#1391 1 year ago
Quoted from chaskett:

All the information is in this topic. It is a williams drop target posted on thingaverse. I don't have a printer, but my library does. I was suggesting their strongest material, but they thought PLA would be best because of the smoothness. They thought the strength would be good enough. Time will tell. If i did it over, I would remove the ridges in the rear and make the target thicker.
The graphic from one of the posters in this topic. I printed on printable vinyl and laminated with one sided self adhering laminate. I printed extra if you're interested.
I have printed other parts, but nothing that takes as much abuse as a drop target.

Welp... that didn't take long. The flat "T" bottom broke off on 2 of the six drop targets I installed after about 20 games. Back to the drawing board.

#1392 1 year ago
Quoted from chaskett:

Welp... that didn't take long. The flat "T" bottom broke off on 2 of the six drop targets I installed after about 20 games. Back to the drawing board.

Mine probably won't be far behind you after I get the Knight up and running. Mine are also printed from PLA because that is what my friend had available. Yelobird had recommended using Nylon X as a stronger material which is probably a better bet.

#1393 1 year ago

This is becoming an adventure. I have now visually inspected and checked continuity throughout the column five switches and all the way back to the board. Everything has continuity. I also pulled the Rottendog board and "trimmed" down the middle board mount so that it doesn't ground on J3 lug. I had blown a solenoid fuse, so I just replaced it. Going through coil test I am missing left and right kickers and the pop bumper. I just ordered 5 of the 74HCT9114N switch matrix chips from K's Arcade but not sure when I will get them through priority mail. My local electronics supply didn't have them. So now I've got to wait to see if the chip if a big part of the problem.

#1394 1 year ago
Quoted from chaskett:

Welp... that didn't take long. The flat "T" bottom broke off on 2 of the six drop targets I installed after about 20 games. Back to the drawing board.

This is why I eventually sold my 3D printer. Nothing ever was strong enough for my needs. I tried all sorts of fills and materials. The best (strongest) bond I was able to get was from PETG, but while it was very strong, it was too flexible. It's sad because the precision is there. Just not the strength.

#1395 1 year ago

Actually given what these things are doing, perhaps PETG might be okay. You want some flex.

#1396 1 year ago
Quoted from chaskett:

Welp... that didn't take long. The flat "T" bottom broke off on 2 of the six drop targets I installed after about 20 games. Back to the drawing board.

Update... glued the bottoms back on with locktite professional liquid super glue and so far so good after around 10 plays. I love this stuff:

#1397 1 year ago

I got my 74HCT9114N switch matrix chips from K's Arcade today. I installed a new one in U17. Fired the game up. It won't start a game even though switch #17, right ball ramp does register in switch test. My pop bumper switch and my upper drop targets (all column 5 in the switch matrix) still don't register in switch test. The interesting thing is when I trigger my pop bumper manually, my left and right kicker are activating at the same time. And my left kicker is sometimes activating by itself although not completely, only partially. Just went back to it quickly to try a coil test. My coils started to fire and then they stopped. Now I have no coils firing at all during coil test. Jeeeezzz. Thought I was getting closer. All for now. Got to work tomorrow so it's off to bed. Try to address it with a clear head.

#1398 1 year ago

Just a quick update. Just quickly before work this morning I checked my solenoid fuse which was burned (so now replaced). And I also went through the entire initial startup and self check with the Rottendog board which is showing it is working. I'll try to take a peek at it when I get home. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

#1399 1 year ago

I tried to do a switch and coil test tonight. My left kicker stuck on during the test and I had to manually release it. But I have blown my solenoid fuse again. Have to grab some 2.5 SB's tomorrow to try again. I feel like I'm going in circles. I've checked continuity through all the wires going to J2 and j3 and none of them are grounded inadvertently. Just not sure where I need to be looking on the Rdog board.

#1400 1 year ago

I wonder if you have a couple of wires with the shielding cracked and you are having some crossed wires, or a stray whisker wire touching somewhere.

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