(Topic ID: 54503)

Black Knight Club...Members Only!


By mof

7 years ago

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There are 2397 posts in this topic. You are on page 25 of 48.
#1201 2 years ago

Felt a bit adventurous today. I would like to install some side "blades" on my BK at some point. But there isn't much clearance between the playfield sides and the cabinet. So, while the playfield is out, I trimmed the width on the table saw. The playfield is now about 3/16" thinner than stock. Should have no clearance issues now, unless I need to "shave" a couple plastics.

20180812_161540 (resized).jpg
#1202 2 years ago

I'm normally a traditionalist, but as I was cleaning up my BK purchase from last week (new rubbers, fixing some flaky switches, replacing bad bulbs) I decided to try LEDs. I put LEDs in my EBD and I really liked them, so I tried it with Black Night. Wow. Huge difference without being overbearing, IMO. I can post a before & after video if anyone is interested, but in the meantime look at the differences in the green Lock light....I thought I had finished replacing all the playfield lights and when I put the table back down and turned it on, I saw I forgot one light. The difference is rather striking. Even my wife liked it, and she just rolls her eyes whenever I'm spending time tinkering on the pins.

LED vs Incandescent (resized).jpg
#1203 2 years ago

As I was putting in new rubbers and LEDs this evening on my new BK, I noticed behind the blue drop downs on the lower playfield that there appears to be a red post missing given the hole in the playfield and the circular exposure of "newer" looking wood. Your BK's have this post? I'll have to pick one up from Marco's or somewhere.
IMG_5728 (resized).JPG

#1204 2 years ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

As I was putting in new rubbers and LEDs this evening on my new BK, I noticed behind the blue drop downs on the lower playfield that there appears to be a red post missing given the hole in the playfield and the circular exposure of "newer" looking wood. Your BK's have this post? I'll give to pick one up from Marco's or somewhere.[quoted image]

I just went back and looked at some old pics of my original and no post on mine, just a hole. So it was done for a reason. I vaguely remember reading something about it a while back, I am sure someone else will elaborate.

#1205 2 years ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

As I was putting in new rubbers and LEDs this evening on my new BK, I noticed behind the blue drop downs on the lower playfield that there appears to be a red post missing given the hole in the playfield and the circular exposure of "newer" looking wood. Your BK's have this post? I'll have to pick one up from Marco's or somewhere.
[quoted image]

IPDB had mention of the area you are speaking. Not sure why there is a hole, but on some early machines there is a cutout for a switch. From IPDB - "Also pictured in this listing is a stripped playfield from the game with serial number 457797. Three of the four slots cut into this playfield for the drop target banks also have a cutout to support a vertical rebound switch. The switch can be seen in the flyer game if one looks carefully at the center drop bank. We do not know how many production games had these switches. Games that do not have switches might still have the playfield cutouts. Other games might not even have the cut outs. Steve Ritchie explains:
The switch was removed because it never really got a chance to be hit much. The timers would reset the banks, so they weren't exposed often enough to justify the cost of keeping them." Maybe some clarification.
I just realized that a prior owner placed a post on mine.

20180807_133517 (resized).jpgimage-44 (resized).jpg
#1206 2 years ago

Can someone take a photo of the upper playfield right side drop target area with the plastic removed. Mine has two "pins" behind the drops I'm thinking to support the plastic? But mine are literally two nails. I also have one behind the upper playfield left drop target assembly, second picture (the nail is the shiny thing in the forefront).

20180807_103550 (resized).jpg20180807_212948 (resized).jpg
#1207 2 years ago
Quoted from epeabs:

Can someone take a photo of the upper playfield right side drop target area with the plastic removed. Mine has two "pins" behind the drops I'm thinking to support the plastic? But mine are literally two nails. I also have one behind the upper playfield left drop target assembly, second picture (the nail is the shiny thing in the forefront).
[quoted image][quoted image]

Yes, this is the way mine was from the factory as well. The nails on the right support the plastic but also can scratch it, pencil erasers would work to protect. The one on the left is a guide for that V rail and that whole area is a problem for the plastic, Cliffy makes a top cover.

My right upper posts after the restore...

88587A43-FA14-4AD7-842C-C764B23ED61E (resized).jpeg
#1208 2 years ago

Much more professional-looking approach than Factory. I was already thinking of doing something along the same lines. As far as the left side, I'll look into that set up a little more and maybe try to do a Cliffy as well. Thank you.

#1209 2 years ago

Is the white plastic lens above the left Magna Save markings on the apron supposed to be a credit light (it is on my Bally Eight Ball Deluxe)? There's no bulb socket or supporting circuitry underneath it on my BK.

0 - Credit Light (Top) (resized).jpg1 - Credit Light (Inside) (resized).jpg
#1210 2 years ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

Is the white plastic lens above the left Magna Save markings on the apron supposed to be a credit light (it is on my Bally Eight Ball Deluxe)? There's no bulb socket or supporting circuitry underneath it on my BK.
[quoted image][quoted image]

I think this is around when they started phasing those out. Probably didn't want to make a new apron press without the hole yet but skipped the lamp. Also note that every single lamp in the matrix is used already, as with many sys 7s. They also started phasing out various backglass lamps (player up, etc) at the same time.

#1211 2 years ago

Note: Black Knight has four lamps not used....
------ Back box wiring color is mismatch for the lamps....
------ If done correctly maybe the "player 1-4" lights would work...
------ the holes are above the score displays.

#1212 2 years ago

Great info - thanx, guys!

#1213 2 years ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

I'm normally a traditionalist, but as I was cleaning up my BK purchase from last week (new rubbers, fixing some flaky switches, replacing bad bulbs) I decided to try LEDs.

Mine is full LEDs and I think they look great in this game. I opted for purple bulbs for the inserts in front of the drops for a change. I didn't want to use blue seeing as the left arrows are already blue. This worked pretty well with the blue insert. I'm planning on putting in some post flashers as well and tying them into the pop bumper and the slings.

IMG_20180813_2150243 (resized).jpg
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Quoted from epeabs:

Mine has two "pins" behind the drops I'm thinking to support the plastic? But mine are literally two nails.

I still don't understand the purpose of these nails. To support the plastic? From what, an airball coming down on top of it? Maybe to protect the light bulb from the plastic crushing it? As for the one on the guide on the left ramp, I put in a post screw and *gasp* drilled a hole in the plastic and used an acorn nut on it. This worked perfectly because I already had the metal plate under the plastic and it rested on the edge of the ball guide. When I tightened down the plastic it pushed the metal plate down on top of the ball guide. Everything is nice and tight!

IMG_20180813_2144413 (resized).jpg
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#1214 2 years ago
Quoted from dzorbas:

Mine is full LEDs and I think they look great in this game. I opted for purple bulbs for the inserts in front of the drops for a change. I didn't want to use blue seeing as the left arrows are already blue. This worked pretty well with the blue insert. I'm planning on putting in some post flashers as well and tying them into the pop bumper and the slings.

I'm actually doing the same thing - I also thought of purple in that spot when I saw the left arrow inserts lit up in blue after the conversion to LEDs. I ordered some purple LEDs from Cointaker on Thursday, should be here tomorrow.

I would like to add a couple of strip lights in some dark areas as well - one behind the outhole under the apron, and one in that plastic piece that runs on top of the ball shooter trough up the right side of the playfield. I've not added lights like that before - is there an easy way or guide on how to tie them into GI light circuit?

#1215 2 years ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

I would like to add a couple of strip lights in some dark areas as well - one behind the outhole under the apron, and one in that plastic piece that runs on top of the ball shooter trough up the right side of the playfield. I've not added lights like that before - is there an easy way or guide on how to tie them into GI light circuit?

I've already done both of those mods. For the outhole, find a clear saucer (https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=4693) and then get a light socket. You have a couple of options. You can tie it into the GI nearby, just run two wires, which is what I did. I put a colour changing bulb in it and pointed it at the saucer. The other option is to tie it into the green arrow that flashes. The only time it will come on is when the arrow flashes. I did this on my Firepower.

For the plastic on the right side I put a socket up close to the front and one back where the knight's head is. Again, I ran some wires off the GI nearby, under the playfield. Just be careful of running wires under that area. If they hang down into the shooter lane the ball might hit them when it is plunged.

I will see if I have some pictures of this. Someone else has done this but I'm not sure if it's in this thread or another one...

#1216 2 years ago
Quoted from dzorbas:

I still don't understand the purpose of these nails. To support the plastic? From what, an airball coming down on top of it? Maybe to protect the light bulb from the plastic crushing it? As for the one on the guide on the left ramp, I put in a post screw and *gasp* drilled a hole in the plastic and used an acorn nut on it. This worked perfectly because I already had the metal plate under the plastic and it rested on the edge of the ball guide. When I tightened down the plastic it pushed the metal plate down on top of the ball guide. Everything is nice and tight!
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

I like the post mod behind the left upper drop bank. Makes much more sense than the nail. I think I will use that approach to cure the factory "hack".

#1217 2 years ago

Does anyone have the part number for this switch? It is the switch activated by the kicker arm itself not the ones that register on each side of it on BK. My manual doesn't have part numbers as far as switches, Etc. And nothing looks quite right on pinball life, Marco, etc.

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#1218 2 years ago

Finally got around to finishing up by BK. This started as a complete but truly craptastic mess both cosmetically and mechannically. Now, in no particular order...

Done:
"Outside Edge" playfield hard top. This is awesome and was easy to do!
All new inserts with some modifications (magnet inserts are green, round inserts in front of drop targets are clear with color changing LEDs, shoot again at bottom of sword is orange)
All new star posts in red & blue - Red on right side of cab and blue on left
New drop targets in red & blue to match the arrows pointing to them (This took some modding of the new style targets to make them work)
New custom designed red & blue target decals
Added on 3 missing GI lights on right side
New pop assembly with black wafer & base, stamped graphic cap and a multi-led
New spinner decals
Ball entry flap decal mod
Cliffy protectors for eject holes
Full Cointaker LED kit
Translucent red flipper & green magnet buttons lit by LED's
New rubber, balls, legs, levelers, bolts, red corner protectors
New shooter rod with red translucent handle
All boards 100% recapped, all connectors reflowed & or replaced, NVRAM installed
All system 7 board mods/upgrades done
Inkochnito's rectifier replacement board installed
Pinball Electronics (weebly) solenoid fuse board installed
All new coil sleeves
New kick out hole plastic (translucent red w LED)
All new flipper coils, bats, EOS switches, etc.
New Mayfair backglass
New speaker
New start button & freeplay button (small hole for a freeplay button was already in the door)
Printed and laminated apron cards
Probably more I am forgetting

Left to do:
New playfield glass
New plastic set will be here Monday
LED scoreboard - hmmmm maybe???
Those cool etched ramp mods??? (Anyone know if they hold up well?)

Thoughts:
I would have also made the shoot again insert with clear and a color changing LED.
I go back and forth on the multiball insert - I did orange but maybe should have left it green.
Thinking of changing the LED wiring on the magnet buttons to only light when that sides magnet is lit.
Boards (resized).jpgBox (resized).jpgGlass (resized).jpgPop (resized).jpglegs (resized).jpglower red & blue targets (1) (resized).jpglower red & blue targets (2) (resized).jpgmod green inserts (resized).jpgmod lights (resized).jpgplayfield (resized).jpgpop (2) (resized).jpgupper blue targets (1) (resized).jpgupper blue targets (2) (resized).jpgupper playfield (1) (resized).jpgupper playfield (2) (resized).jpgupper red targets (1) (resized).jpgupper red targets (2) (resized).jpg

#1219 2 years ago
Quoted from scottmaggie:

New drop targets in red & blue

Wait - how did you get blue drops for BK ? That looks nice
Dig the colored stickers as well.

mof

#1220 2 years ago
Quoted from mof:

Wait - how did you get blue drops for BK ? That looks nice
Dig the colored stickers as well.
mof

We will see how the targets hold up. I didn't know they were different L shape instead of T shape bottom. What I ended up doing was drilling a small hole at the bottom of each, inserting a finishing nail with a dot of epoxy. Then I cut the nails and grinded the end smooth. Works perfect though it hasn't been long term battle tested.

Also the decals are a modded logo I found online. Image attached. Decals are 1.25" high x .93" wide

blue knight (resized).jpgdrop target modification (1) (resized).jpgdrop target modification (2) (resized).jpgdrop target modification (3) (resized).jpgred knight (resized).jpg

#1221 2 years ago

Looks beautiful!! The hardtop looks like a deep clear job. I like the updated drop targets. I want to change mine out since the "red" is pink and it drives me crazy. In the process of doing some playfield touch ups right now as I think I'm going to go the Spraymax 2K clear route. Just got my BK on the 6th and it is now in many pieces, the playfield is on the rotisserie and top stripped down, just pulled the drop target assemblies out tonight. Do you have a part number for the drop targets?

20180815_214156 (resized).jpg20180815_221531 (resized).jpg
#1222 2 years ago
Quoted from scottmaggie:

Also the decals are a modded logo I found online.

Love the blue/red targets! Totally makes sense.

#1223 2 years ago
Quoted from chaskett:

Love the blue/red targets! Totally makes sense.

Quoted from epeabs:

Looks beautiful!! The hardtop looks like a deep clear job. I like the updated drop targets. I want to change mine out since the "red" is pink and it drives me crazy. In the process of doing some playfield touch ups right now as I think I'm going to go the Spraymax 2K clear route. Just got my BK on the 6th and it is now in many pieces, the playfield is on the rotisserie and top stripped down, just pulled the drop target assemblies out tonight. Do you have a part number for the drop targets?
[quoted image][quoted image]

Part is 03-7478

#1224 2 years ago
Quoted from scottmaggie:

New drop targets in red & blue to match the arrows pointing to them (This took some modding of the new style targets to make them work)

The Red/Blue targets are a really, really nice touch. Love them.

#1225 2 years ago

Newbie question - the bulb in my pop bumper was really dim and having changed out all of the other playfield and backglass lights to LEDs, I decided to do the pop bumper as well. The bulb was very difficult to get out....I wound up mangling it, separating the glass bump from the bayonet base. I then had to use needlenose pliers to twist the 44/47 base out of the socket. I put in a known working LED, and it doesn't light. This was working before I touched it, of course. The pop bumper itself still works, it's just the light. I don't see anything obvious underneath the playfield....doesn't look like I pulled any wires loose. I cleaned the contacts in the base best I could (the original bulb was pretty oxidized). Still no light.

Any suggestions on the next step in the triage? I have a DVM but not sure what to do with it.

Thanx!

Pop Bumper (resized).jpg
#1226 2 years ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

I put in a known working LED, and it doesn't light.

Try putting the bulb in both ways. Put it in one way and twist. If that doesn't work, pull it, twist it 180 degrees and try it again. If that doesn't work, replace the entire holder with a 555 holder like this - https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/24-8776

Those 44/47 holders in the pops are crap.

#1227 2 years ago
Quoted from dzorbas:

Try putting the bulb in both ways. Put it in one way and twist. If that doesn't work, pull it, twist it 180 degrees and try it again. If that doesn't work, replace the entire holder with a 555 holder like this - https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/24-8776
Those 44/47 holders in the pops are crap.

I hate those holders. They work like crap in em’s and all my other games too. Usually I clean the socket and make sure it’s tight on the bulb, bottom and sides

#1228 2 years ago
Quoted from scottmaggie:

Finally got around to finishing up by BK. This started as a complete but truly craptastic mess both cosmetically and mechannically. Now, in no particular order...

That's a fantastic looking game! Great job! I've got a few of the same things done to mine (hardtop, flipper buttons, extra bulbs on the right side, clear lit lock saucer, custom drop target decals, NVRAM, Weebly fuse board, rectifier fuses, new caps, etc.). I put in new flipper mechs on the lower playfield, made my own rails and am about to add some post flashers.

I haven't pulled the trigger on a new backglass yet, waiting on CPR to release the mirrored version (non-mirrored are available at a slightly lower price). And my displays are perfect otherwise I would have already swapped them for xPins!

Enjoy the game!

#1229 2 years ago
Quoted from scottmaggie:

New drop targets in red & blue to match the arrows pointing to them (This took some modding of the new style targets to make them work)

Just found this... Print any color you like of the T style drops!

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2774414

#1230 2 years ago
Quoted from chaskett:

Just found this... Print any color you like of the T style drops!
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2774414

Now that's super cool! Gonna have to remember this. I like the mix of blue and red. I hate that mine have faded to some washed out pink colour!

#1231 2 years ago
Quoted from dzorbas:

Those 44/47 holders in the pops are crap.

You can put brand new original style 44 sockets in and they are still crap.

#1232 2 years ago

Still wondering if anyone figured out how to replace the annoying bell with a knocker or sometbing else.

#1233 2 years ago
Quoted from scottmaggie:

Still wondering if anyone figured out how to replace the annoying bell with a knocker or sometbing else.

Can I buy your annoying bell? I need stereo bells.

Seems like it would be weird having a knocker go off every time you complete some drops with max bonus.

#1234 2 years ago
Quoted from zacaj:

Seems like it would be weird having a knocker go off every time you complete some drops with max bonus.

The code would have to be modified. Installing a knocker in place of the bell would not work. The code would hold the coil on too long and burn it up, especially at extra ball reward.

#1235 2 years ago
Quoted from mwsmith:

The code would have to be modified. Installing a knocker in place of the bell would not work. The code would hold the coil on too long and burn it up, especially at extra ball reward.

Could maybe wire in a relay ...

#1236 2 years ago

I am going to be clearing my playfield and have a few touch ups to make. Does anyone have any water slide decals for the "when lit" over the Magna Save?

20180816_195120 (resized).jpg
#1237 2 years ago

epeabs on ebay right now. Maybe try them?
-Mike

Screenshot_2018-08-16-20-08-52 (resized).png
#1238 2 years ago

I'm hesitant on those, because any of them I've ever seen never matches the green properly. Hence I was looking to see if there was just a when lit decal,clear with the black lettering.

#1239 2 years ago

My buddy and I downloaded that file from thingiverse for the drop targets. Here is a trial run in Gray just to test for quality and fitment.

556209874 (resized).jpg
#1240 2 years ago

That's awesome!

#1241 2 years ago

The gray prototypes fit absolutely perfect. Screws thread in perfectly. Roll of red ABS on order to do some finals.

20180818_001123 (resized).jpg20180818_001204 (resized).jpg
#1242 2 years ago
Quoted from epeabs:

The gray prototypes fit absolutely perfect. Screws thread in perfectly. Roll of red ABS on order to do some finals.

This is awesome! Keep us posted!

#1243 2 years ago
Quoted from epeabs:

The gray prototypes fit absolutely perfect. Screws thread in perfectly. Roll of red ABS on order to do some finals.

My pinball group of friends is concerned with the strength of these. One of them printed a drop for his Star Trek game but it didn't hold up to the pounding. I'm trying to get one of them to print one up for me that I will throw into BK and test. I will report back how it goes.

#1244 2 years ago
Quoted from epeabs:

The gray prototypes fit absolutely perfect. Screws thread in perfectly. Roll of red ABS on order to do some finals.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Looks awesome but I would strongly suggest using Nylon X instead of ABS. Was designed to hold up under serious stress where abs tends to crack in short order. Mattermaker makes great Nylon filament in several colors. Just a suggestion. Good luck and looking great.

#1245 2 years ago

While taking apart my drop target assemblies for cleaning, I realized I have a different coil on one of the four assemblies. Three of my drop targets are using an SA-3-23 850-DC coil, and the fourth one has a G-23 750 coil. It is physically a smidge smaller than the other three and I'm figuring isn't as
"strong". Is the SA-3-23 850-DC still available? I only saw an SG version.

20180815_204431 (resized).jpg20180815_204437 (resized).jpg
#1246 2 years ago

750 is a bit stronger than 850. Other coil should be compatible as long as you put the diode on

#1247 2 years ago
Quoted from Grizlyrig:

epeabs on ebay right now. Maybe try them?
-Mike
[quoted image]

If you’re going to clear coat your playfield, don’t use these, they are about 1mm thick

#1248 2 years ago

Thank you. I decided not to go that route. I made my own waterslide decal and matched the font very well. I think it will look good when all done.

#1249 2 years ago

Added the cool new ramps today. Great quality from the Mod Couple. They changed the right ramp from orange to blue for me as well.

20180822_204603 (resized).jpg

#1250 2 years ago
Quoted from scottmaggie:

Added the cool new ramps today. Great quality from the Mod Couple. They changed the right ramp from orange to blue for me as well.
[quoted image]

Are those metal ramps pliable like the originals? Or are they more solid like modern ramps? I've been wondering if the pliability of the ramps deadens the ball at all

There are 2397 posts in this topic. You are on page 25 of 48.

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