(Topic ID: 54503)

Black Knight Club...Members Only!


By mof

7 years ago



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  • 2,276 posts
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  • Latest reply 8 days ago by PSchmitz
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There are 2276 posts in this topic. You are on page 20 of 46.
#951 2 years ago

Gonna brighten up the right side plastics with a few bulbs. Just need to find some thin speaker wire... BRB60...
-mof

#952 2 years ago

Finally finished up an extensive top-to-bottom shop-out of my BK this weekend.

My wife was very excited to finally play it. It's the one pinball game that she has fond memories of playing as a teenager.
(and, yes, that's why I bought it)

IMG_20180414_160437 (resized).jpg

#953 2 years ago

Ok here we go...

Before: (DARKNESS ON RIGHT)
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After: (happy on right)
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#954 2 years ago

ok the after pic is crap, but you'll see for yourself.

Took about an hour... here are the "how to pics"
I re-used both screws already in use in the game.

-mof
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#955 2 years ago

What is the trick to securing the light bulb in the pop bumper? I see a small screw is this involved? Bulb does not want to turn to lock in place. Thanks!

#956 2 years ago
Quoted from Farmboss:

What is the trick to securing the light bulb in the pop bumper? I see a small screw is this involved? Bulb does not want to turn to lock in place. Thanks!

Should just twist and lock in like any other pop bumper. No screw should be involved.

#957 2 years ago
Quoted from Farmboss:

What is the trick to securing the light bulb in the pop bumper? I see a small screw is this involved? Bulb does not want to turn to lock in place. Thanks!

Carefully try and bend that bottom contact up with an angled tool to create more tension and keep the bulb tighter.

#958 2 years ago

So it is supposed to turn? It sure didn’t want to. I will try again and also bend the connector up as well. Thanks!

#959 2 years ago
Quoted from hawknole:

Carefully try and bend that bottom contact up with an angled tool to create more tension and keep the bulb tighter.

If it won't turn it may be too high, maybe it should be bent lower instead?

Farmboss take a picture of the socket if you can.

#960 2 years ago

Once the pop bumper light sockets start failing just change it. You will be messing with it forever probably.
Better yet change it to a 555 bulb base. You'll be happier in the long run.

#961 2 years ago
Quoted from Travish:

Once the pop bumper light sockets start failing just change it. You will be messing with it forever probably.
Better yet change it to a 555 bulb base. You'll be happier in the long run.

Agreed. This is the one i use in my games: https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1245

#962 2 years ago

Im new to this club and have been looking for a replacement CPU but I cant seem to find one. Does someone produce these?

#963 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinstein:

Im new to this club and have been looking for a replacement CPU but I cant seem to find one. Does someone produce these?

The only ones I'm aware of are the rottendog MPUs, but they've been having trouble working properly on BK. If you still have the original mpu, it may be worth sending it out for repairs. The original boards are pretty reliable once they've been gone over by a good tech.

#964 2 years ago

Ok, thank you.

#965 2 years ago
Quoted from frunch:

The only ones I'm aware of are the rottendog MPUs, but they've been having trouble working properly on BK. If you still have the original mpu, it may be worth sending it out for repairs. The original boards are pretty reliable once they've been gone over by a good tech.

+1

#966 2 years ago

I'm accidently a member of the BK club?

I'm restoring a Pharaoh, and I could see the outline of a different design under the Pharaoh art when looked at from a certain angle. I made it out to be a BK design. Sure enough, when I sanded it down for a cab repaint, the BK art was intact under the Pharaoh topcoat and stencil. This most certainly was factory. Frugal Williams! I've not looked at the body yet to see if I have a matching set. I doubt it though.

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#967 2 years ago
Quoted from spiroagnew:

I'm accidently a member of the BK club?

That almost looks better than my backbox!

1 week later
#968 2 years ago

Just joined the group and rebuilt the system 7 power supply. I am checking voltages with nothing plugged in except 3J2 and 3J1. How much is too much on the high voltage connector (+90/-90 readings)? I thought I read that this might be different if there isn't a load on it.

#969 2 years ago
Quoted from troxel:

Just joined the group and rebuilt the system 7 power supply. I am checking voltages with nothing plugged in except 3J2 and 3J1. How much is too much on the high voltage connector (+90/-90 readings)? I thought I read that this might be different if there isn't a load on it.

Actually, unless you changed component values, they're supposed to be +/- 100v

-Hans

#970 2 years ago

1/2 way out of the club. BK #2 picked up this morning by another BK fan. BK #1 is not going anywhere anytime soon.

#971 2 years ago
Quoted from HHaase:

Actually, unless you changed component values, they're supposed to be +/- 100v
-Hans

I rebuilt the HV section, and was getting about 130V, which I thought was too high. Does having a load on it matter or not?

#972 2 years ago

Since I think my HV is too high, I put the cpu/driver board on my bench and just getting column 2 showing on the lamp matrix. What's the best way to problem shoot this? My guess is IC10 (PIA). Would this be right?

Thanks.

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#973 2 years ago

Almost afraid to ask but does anyone have a really high quality scan of their backglass? At some point I would like to get a new one from Mayfair but right now the cost is prohibitive. It would be nice to get something printed that I could put in there for the time being...

#974 2 years ago

I did replace IC10 and lamps are now working.

Back to my original question...is 130 too high on the HV section when it is unloaded?

#975 2 years ago

Going through the solenoid test and notice that the test looks like it gets stuck on "21" and then the relay kicks off when it starts over. I imagine that it should be doing this. Is that correct?

1 week later
#976 2 years ago

Put in a different PIA and game now works. I plugged in the boards, and my displays do work. I tested the HV again and was getting 117V.

I started a blog documenting some of the repairs to this game. If you are interested, head on over to troxel.wordpress.com.

#977 2 years ago

Im tryinig to find red LED display for my BK that I just picked up. Does anyone know if these are available anywhere? Thanks

#978 2 years ago

Hello BK Club! I just bought my first black knight and I love it!! So punishing! It keeps me coming back for more. It’s not in too bad of shape, except I’m going to redo the lighting (has some LEDs in the playfield but they aren’t bright enough), took some steel wool to the legs so I could remove the rust and adjust the pitch (which was set at a menacing 8 degrees) and finally I ordered a new backglass from mayfair which was apparently a rerelease from Williams in 1991 I believe, it has the silkscreen paint with a clear overcoat.

Otherwise all of the sounds and solenoids work great except the bell. I can see the Bell is installed and all the wiring is intact but when I do the solenoid test it doesn’t ring. Any thoughts? I’ll double check the wire connections, I just want to make sure there’s not a switch somewhere I missed.

#979 2 years ago

Check the relay right at the bell and make sure the points make and break when you work the relay by hand, and that the ringer taps the bell on each cycle. Could be a wire off or something else too. Locations and home users sometimes disconnect or muffle the bell.

#980 2 years ago

Can someone snap a photo of the area around the bottom lock? I shot the ball to lock and went straight down to the speaker. I imagine that isn't what should happen .

Thanks!

#981 2 years ago

The bell can also be turned off in the menu. Setting 35, 00 is off and 01 is on.
Maybe it's just off?

#982 2 years ago

Thanks guys. I made sure it was turned on in the setting and I checked the bell again and compared it to pics posted on another post.

It looks like someone removed the clapper arm. Luckily those are only $5 bucks online. I’ll post back with an update after it’s installed.

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#983 2 years ago
Quoted from troxel:

Can someone snap a photo of the area around the bottom lock? I shot the ball to lock and went straight down to the speaker. I imagine that isn't what should happen .
Thanks!

I’m newer to pinball but would like to help! I’m not sure which part you are talking about. Can you take a pic?

#984 2 years ago
Quoted from Pintor:

I’m newer to pinball but would like to help! I’m not sure which part you are talking about. Can you take a pic?

What's preventing the ball from falling down into the bottom of the cabinet in the picture below when locking a ball? Is it a metal rail, piece of wood, or something else?

bk (resized).jpg

#985 2 years ago

Metal side plate, similar to the ones that goes around the ramps and such.

#986 2 years ago
Quoted from troxel:

What's preventing the ball from falling down into the bottom of the cabinet in the picture below when locking a ball? Is it a metal rail, piece of wood, or something else?

Yep, metal side plate and a stop plate on the "far" side of the lock hole.

#987 2 years ago
Quoted from troxel:

What's preventing the ball from falling down into the bottom of the cabinet in the picture below when locking a ball? Is it a metal rail, piece of wood, or something else?

DSCN1422 (resized).JPG

#988 2 years ago

I have an original upper level BK playfield that has been touched up and mylared. Good candidate for a hard top. PM me if interested.

#989 2 years ago

Picked up a bit of a shed of a BK that needs pf, cab and board work.

Has anyone ever created a decal for the area around the pop bumper on the upper pf?

I am undecided whether to re-paint or do the hard top pf replacement. Anyone done this?

Andy

#990 2 years ago

Good evening! I got my BK a few weeks ago and noticed the pop bumper light doesn’t work. I’ve tried switching out the bulb with another LED but still didn’t work. The bumper otherwise works great. I posted a pic of the wireing below. I don’t see anything disconnected.

Any thoughts?

Thanks!

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#991 2 years ago
Quoted from Travish:

Once the pop bumper light sockets start failing just change it. You will be messing with it forever probably.
Better yet change it to a 555 bulb base. You'll be happier in the long run.

Sorry guys just read this post above. If I wanted to keep it as a baynet bulb, is it as simple as unscrewing the screws on the side of the socket and removing it? Is there any soldering involved? I haven’t changed one in a pop bumper before.

Thanks!

#992 2 years ago
Quoted from Pintor:

Good evening! I got my BK a few weeks ago and noticed the pop bumper light doesn’t work. I’ve tried switching out the bulb with another LED but still didn’t work. The bumper otherwise works great. I posted a pic of the wireing below. I don’t see anything disconnected.
Any thoughts?
Thanks!

I'm too lazy to download your pics and circle shit

The two leads from the pop bumper lamp should go to 1) the non banded side of the diode you see mounted to the playfield to the top right of the pop bumper in the first pic 2) the double yellow wires to the left of the lock lamp in the second pic.

The pop bumper lamp is cpu controlled. It appears, for no apparent reason, someone had installed a jumper wire between the two connection points for the pop bumper light. This needs to be removed.

#993 2 years ago
Quoted from gutz:

I'm too lazy to download your pics and circle shit
The two leads from the pop bumper lamp should go to 1) the non banded side of the diode you see mounted to the playfield to the top right of the pop bumper in the first pic 2) the double yellow wires to the left of the lock lamp in the second pic.
The pop bumper lamp is cpu controlled. It appears, for no apparent reason, someone had installed a jumper wire between the two connection points for the pop bumper light. This needs to be removed.

Haha I totally get it! How about I do the circling! So is this the wire I need to
Remove in the pic?

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#994 2 years ago

Also am I missing a lamp wire here?

There’s some other weird wiring toonin the back box but everything else seems to work fine. Except for the glitchy displays but I haven’t cleaned the contacts yet

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#995 2 years ago
Quoted from Pintor:

Haha I totally get it! How about I do the circling! So is this the wire I need to
Remove in the pic?

Yes, that wire. Is the other end shown in the next pic?

One lead from the pop bumper lamp connects to the 2 yellow wires right there.

#996 2 years ago
Quoted from Pintor:

Also am I missing a lamp wire here?
There’s some other weird wiring toonin the back box but everything else seems to work fine. Except for the glitchy displays but I haven’t cleaned the contacts yet

Is this the other end of the jumper wire from the first pic with the arrow?

This is where the second lead from the pop bumper lamp should go.

#997 2 years ago

Yep that’s the other end. I can’t tell where the other end went. I didn’t see any loose wires. I’ll look again, I’m thinking it must have been soldered to something else incorrectly

#998 2 years ago

I was looking at the manual last night. I’m super novice at this stuff so please let me know if I’m way off base. It looks like the jet bumper is missing the green/black wire connection at the nonbanded side of the diode. It looks like the green/black is supposed to go from the top left 3 bank upper target to the jet bumper (34 to 35).

I’ve uploaded a pic of the manual and my playfield.

Does that seem correct?

If so, can I just disconnect the jumper wire at the yellow/white side of the jet bumper and connect it to the green/black wire of the upper target on the top left 3 bank (which I’m assuming is the drop targets?)

Thanks in advance!

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#999 2 years ago
Quoted from Pintor:

I’m super novice at this stuff so please let me know if I’m way off base...

That table is for the SWITCH matrix. Find the table for the LAMP matrix.

Edit: are you working on a different problem now?

#1000 2 years ago

Got it! Nope no new problem I had the wrong matrix. That makes sense now. I loaded the pic of the lamp matrix from the manual.

The yellow/green wire appear to be hooked up correctly.

There are 2 red/yellow wires hooked up on the banded side of the diode. I’m not sure if that’s correct or if one/both should be on the nonbanded side.

I’ll take a look tonight when I get home and see if I can trace the red/yellow wire from the board to the matrix. If I’m interpreting the matrix right, it looks like the red/yellow wire should start at 2J7-4 and go to the game over lamp, then right out lane lamp, top right 3 bank lamp, then finally the jet bumper lamp.

Thank you!

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