(Topic ID: 54503)

Black Knight Club...Members Only!


By mof

6 years ago



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  • 2,095 posts
  • 200 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 days ago by Mtkst19
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There are 2095 posts in this topic. You are on page 13 of 42.
#601 3 years ago
Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:

Good morning fellow BKers. My Black Knight was left on overnight and now this morning the solenoids are not doing anything and the Black Knight is skipping words in his phrases. I'm sure that I can figure out the solenoid issue but does anyone have an idea of what might be happening with the speech?

Black Knight is back! The ball-release solenoid in the trough was intermittently working. I found it's trigger wire on switch row connector 2J3 and punched it down good. This must have been the final straw in the Q15 driver transistor's battle to stay alive and it shorted, heating up the solenoid and taking it out. I ordered and installed a new solenoid, replaced Q15 and Q14 transistors, and now all is better!

I don't know how this ended up related to the sounds but all of the sounds are back to normal as well.

Thank you everyone for your input on this.

#602 3 years ago
Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:

Black Knight is back! The ball-release solenoid in the trough was intermittently working. I found it's trigger wire on switch row connector 2J3 and punched it down good. This must have been the final straw in the Q15 driver transistor's battle to stay alive and it shorted, heating up the solenoid and taking it out. I ordered and installed a new solenoid, replaced Q15 and Q14 transistors, and now all is better!
I don't know how this ended up related to the sounds but all of the sounds are back to normal as well.
Thank you everyone for your input on this.

Did you do the fuse mod on the bridge rectifiers? Its not related to your issue at all, but if one of them shorts then it'll try to burn your house down. Since you're in soldering mode anyways, might as well do it.

1 week later
#603 3 years ago

New Black knight member.
I have mine since some month, a lot of work but soon it will be great !
Cabinet and playfield are finished now

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#604 3 years ago

Nice work! She will be so much fun, and a beauty to look at!

#605 3 years ago
Quoted from dajaab:

New Black knight member.

Nice work, sir!
Sure would like to see more in-between shots of the hand touch up work (if there are any)
-mof

#606 3 years ago

Thank you
As a reminder it was this.
the next time, I'll take more picture
But first, I have to find which is going my next pinball !

old (resized).jpg

#607 3 years ago
Quoted from vintageclub:

Did you do the fuse mod on the bridge rectifiers? Its not related to your issue at all, but if one of them shorts then it'll try to burn your house down. Since you're in soldering mode anyways, might as well do it.

Funny you ask... I constructed a pair of jumpers, mounted the pair of fuse holders, and when I went to try and pull the wires from the bridge rectifiers I found that they were SOLDERED! I stopped there and am considering whether I leave them, chop the rectifiers out and install new ones with re-terminated wires, or cut the factory wires and terminate onto the fuse holders.

#608 3 years ago
Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:

Funny you ask... I constructed a pair of jumpers, mounted the pair of fuse holders, and when I went to try and pull the wires from the bridge rectifiers I found that they were SOLDERED! I stopped there and am considering whether I leave them, chop the rectifiers out and install new ones with re-terminated wires, or cut the factory wires and terminate onto the fuse holders.

No, thats completely normal. You can just splice the fuse holder inline, using the existing soldered-on wire to the bridge rectifier. Sometimes they soldered them on, sometimes it was lug connectors, sometimes it was soldered-on lug connectors. Just get it done however you must. I've seen photos and heard the stories of the games that don't have this done and its NOT GOOD.

#609 3 years ago

So this happened. I'm kinda kicking myself for not painting the white but it will work just fine. We color matched all the colors using ppg dbc products and used ppg dc3000 clear. I still have to sand it down one more time and reclear and cut and buff but I'm pretty stoked on how it's coming out.

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#610 3 years ago
Quoted from Its_me_aj:

I'm kinda kicking myself for not painting the white but it will work just fine.

Thats just making an old game new while maintaining its petina. Looks fantastic!

#611 3 years ago
Quoted from vintageclub:

No, thats completely normal. You can just splice the fuse holder inline, using the existing soldered-on wire to the bridge rectifier. Sometimes they soldered them on, sometimes it was lug connectors, sometimes it was soldered-on lug connectors. Just get it done however you must. I've seen photos and heard the stories of the games that don't have this done and its NOT GOOD.

It has been done, thank you for the disaster-scenario encouragement. Those wires are pretty short to work with but it came out fine:

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#612 3 years ago
Quoted from Its_me_aj:

So this happened. I'm kinda kicking myself for not painting the white but it will work just fine. We color matched all the colors using ppg dbc products and used ppg dc3000 clear. I still have to sand it down one more time and reclear and cut and buff but I'm pretty stoked on how it's coming out.

perfect, you don't need to paint the white, it looks great! get ready for an insanely fast playing BK

#613 3 years ago

Anyone have any experience replacing their magna save relays with transistors? Both my relays are shot, and it seems like it'd be simpler and more reliable to use a modern transistor than tracking down old relays, but I'm not that experienced with picking out transistors

3 weeks later
#614 3 years ago

Hello all, I'm just starting the restoration process on my Black Knight and have a couple of questions regarding LEDs.

1. Is there a difference between the LED kits sold on marco and cointaker? Is one preferred over the other by BK owners?

2. My gaslight displays still work, but I need to replace the high voltage capacitors to get them working correctly. Is it worth the effort to repair the board or would I be better off upgrading to LED displays and bypassing the HV portion of the board?

Thank you in advance for your input.

#615 3 years ago
Quoted from goohst8:

Hello all, I'm just starting the restoration process on my Black Knight and have a couple of questions regarding LEDs.
1. Is there a difference between the LED kits sold on marco and cointaker? Is one preferred over the other by BK owners?
2. My gaslight displays still work, but I need to replace the high voltage capacitors to get them working correctly. Is it worth the effort to repair the board or would I be better off upgrading to LED displays and bypassing the HV portion of the board?
Thank you in advance for your input.

1. LEDs really come down to personal taste, so thinking EITHER of those pre-picked kits could get you a look you're happy with for years to come would be an impossibility. A sampler pack of LEDs (usually around $15-$30 from any LED supplier) would be a good way to do your color and style selections. There are plenty of LED suppliers and parts companies that offer a great product like Comet LED, Nifty LED, PinballLife... all bulbs are not created equal.

2. If you like the classic look of the original then no better reason to try and restore the HV section. Upgrading to LED isn't a necessity if your original displays have life in them. Great Plains Electronics and Big Daddy Enterprises both offer rebuild kits for that section.

#616 3 years ago

Hello BK members. For the past several months I have been slowly restoring my first BK. I just had a stuck t nut on one of the back box bolts. I tried to place screws around it to grab it, but it did not work. I ended up using a dremel to cut off the head of the bolt.

Here are my questions. I went to Home Depot and picked up another t nut and bolt. My concern is getting another t nut installed correctly and that this new bolt is actually a grade 8 (which will obviously make cutting it harder if this happens again). Would it be ok to use a flat washer, lock washer and nut instead of the t nut? Please let me know if this substitution is not ideal. I surely do not want to cause any further problems down the road. Up until this point this restoration has been very smooth.

Thanks in advance for any advise

Jennifer

#617 3 years ago
Quoted from jhamm72:

Hello BK members. For the past several months I have been slowly restoring my first BK. I just had a stuck t nut on one of the back box bolts. I tried to place screws around it to grab it, but it did not work. I ended up using a dremel to cut off the head of the bolt.
Here are my questions. I went to Home Depot and picked up another t nut and bolt. My concern is getting another t nut installed correctly and that this new bolt is actually a grade 8 (which will obviously make cutting it harder if this happens again). Would it be ok to use a flat washer, lock washer and nut instead of the t nut? Please let me know if this substitution is not ideal. I surely do not want to cause any further problems down the road. Up until this point this restoration has been very smooth.
Thanks in advance for any advise
Jennifer

Sure. The main reason t nuts are used is because many times it is hard to get behind to hold/tighten a nut. If you have a new t nut just use that. You can place the nut in the hole and use a bolt and washer and it will pull the nut into place when you tighten the bolt. I wouldn't worry about it happening again. No telling how long it has been since it was removed last time.

#618 3 years ago

Thanks Travish for answering my post. I am glad to hear that a new t nut can reseat itself fairly easy.

#619 3 years ago

Be sure to post some pictures when you finish.

#620 3 years ago
Quoted from goohst8:

Hello all, I'm just starting the restoration process on my Black Knight and have a couple of questions regarding LEDs.
1. Is there a difference between the LED kits sold on marco and cointaker? Is one preferred over the other by BK owners?
2. My gaslight displays still work, but I need to replace the high voltage capacitors to get them working correctly. Is it worth the effort to repair the board or would I be better off upgrading to LED displays and bypassing the HV portion of the board?
Thank you in advance for your input.

The LED kits are very expensive compared to building your own kit.

I personally liked (for bk) colormatching the inserts and using cointakers retro warm lamps, they are the closest look to incandescent while still going led

#621 3 years ago

Thank you for the thoughts vintageclub and Chosen_S

#622 3 years ago

Are original 2x & 5X inserts supposed to be light purple, or is this because the blue has faded? I want to color match these with LEDs and can't decide which color to order.

#623 3 years ago

All the multipliers are the same blue color on my cpr pf.

My other Williams machines group insert colors together.

Id get the same color in all 4.

#624 3 years ago

Good, that's what I was figuring. Interesting how some blue inserts are faded to light purple while others are still blue.

#625 3 years ago

I use a flash light behind the inserts to make sure, the bk inserts can be deceiving

1 month later
#626 3 years ago

Has anyone experimented with setting # 37?
(reaching) Extra Ball difficulty
-mof

#627 3 years ago

Yes, I did for about a week. It just came down to being an annoying work-around for the difficulty. You must go through the horseshoe to light the lock. Normally, a qualify-lock shot would be a welcome addition but this one doesn't feel right. So, you end up starting at the top, coming back down, then must make the horseshoe and go back up to lock the first ball.

#628 3 years ago
Quoted from vintageclub:

Yes, I did for about a week. It just came down to being an annoying work-around for the difficulty. You must go through the horseshoe to light the lock. Normally, a qualify-lock shot would be a welcome addition but this one doesn't feel right. So, you end up starting at the top, coming back down, then must make the horseshoe and go back up to lock the first ball.

I think that's great. It always seems like a shame for a multilevel game where you always want to be on one level. For me having to go down to light locks isn't enough, I'd like even more reason to go down there personally, but sadly besides from the horseshoe both playfields serve almost the same purpose

#629 3 years ago
Quoted from zacaj:

I think that's great. It always seems like a shame for a multilevel game where you always want to be on one level. For me having to go down to light locks isn't enough, I'd like even more reason to go down there personally, but sadly besides from the horseshoe both playfields serve almost the same purpose

Yes, I understand that. My personal game starts gameplay on the lower level, but thats a bit of an extreme mod just to mix up the gameplay. ADJ#37 just never seemed like a satisfying offset to make the game harder. Locking the lower ball first or something may feel like a better compromise, or knocking down the lower drop targets before lighting lock... something with a bit more reward for the risk.

#630 3 years ago
Quoted from mof:

Has anyone experimented with setting # 37?
(reaching) Extra Ball difficulty
-mof

I've had mine set up that way for a while. Otherwise, it's plunge/lock ball 1... Plunge/lock ball 2... Plunge/lock ball 3... Multiball! Too easy. It forces you to take the risk of sending the ball to the lower pf, shooting the u-turn (a risky shot to boot), then managing to get the ball back up top for locking. When i discovered that feature, i gladly enabled it. I'll turn it off when having parties though, most of my friends aren't pinheads and i prefer to make my games at least a little more approachable for them.

The lock memory is another feature that can be tweaked in conjunction with that to make it even harder if you really want a challenge.

1 week later
#631 3 years ago

Hello fellow BK fans. I recently finished shopping and somewhat restoring my first project pin. It has been both challenging and very rewarding experience. BK just recently lost all of it's GI lightening. Initially I figured it was a simple fuse. Boy was I wrong.

My BK is an earlier version so it has the System 6 power supply with the GI Relay mounted inside the back box next to "big blue". The later versions have the System 7 power supply with the relay mounted on the board.

The GI will flash on momentarily but quickly go out. If I keep it powered off for at least an hour, the GI will stay on for approximately 10-15 seconds.

I have verified continuity on all four wires leading from the relay to the driver board, power supply and fuse block. No breaks. According to the schematics, this relay is called the K1 and the transistor is Q35. I ran a jumper from the tab on Q35 to a ground. Still no GI. The only way I can get the GI to stay on it to run a jumper wire from the posts of the two yellow wires on the relay.

I assume at this point it the relay. Where do I acquire one? The only relays I have found so far are for the board mounted System 7 relay which is a 10 amp. This one is a 13 amp.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Jen

1 week later
#632 2 years ago

Hello. I'm new to Pinside. I had a Black Knight back in the early 90's, got rid of it, and just picked up another one. It's being restored and I'm excited about having it again. I'll put some pictures on here when I get it back. Hope to have it back in a few weeks.

You all have some awesome looking machines!

#633 2 years ago
Quoted from vintageclub:

Here are a few more. The shooter lane feeds to the flip/flop ramp and goes across the playfield to the left flipper return, which lites the Mystery center ramp for a "Mystery Skill Shot." Because the upper gate is no longer there, sometimes the center ramp shot feeds directly into that tunnel, down the shooter lane, and pops out the chute. If you have a magna-save lit, then you can grab the ball right as it comes out of the chute and drop it safely in the right lane for a spinner shot. I've added some switches and altered the wiring so that Magna-Save is dynamically controlled by the player (like Pharaoh) instead of just holding the ball for a pre-determined amount of time. This is handy, not just to speed up the game, but when multiple balls get stuck on the magnet you can flutter them off safely instead of always dropping one accidentally down the outlane. Lots of mods and changes throughout. Really fun and challenging.

Looks like you have room for another machine.

#634 2 years ago
Quoted from NightOwl:

Looks like you have room for another machine.

Thats at the old house while we had it on the market... it was an entire game room filled end to end with games and wall decor, mirror ball, posters, and on and on. Had to take it all down to "open it up" for people looking to buy. Got the games set up downstairs in the new house but its a shared gameroom/family room" area for the kids to watch TV and play console games. Soooooo..... haven't gotten crazy with wall art and whatnot.

#635 2 years ago
Quoted from frunch:

Otherwise, it's plunge/lock ball 1... Plunge/lock ball 2... Plunge/lock ball 3... Multiball! Too easy

One must remember, the game was on location at 3 balls
and 50 cents per game. Setting the game to 5 balls makes
the features seem easy. Adj.#37 was for 5 balls.

#636 2 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

One must remember, the game was on location at 3 balls
and 50 cents per game. Setting the game to 5 balls makes
the features seem easy. Adj.#37 was for 5 balls.

It's way too easy on three ball too though

1 month later
#637 2 years ago

What is the proper kind of pin or post that connects the metal guide to the playfield at the top left horseshoe (u-turn)? Mine is missing and the ball gets stuck sometimes since the guide does not stay centered.

I found in this thread where a finishing nail was the apparent answer. Let me know if anyone has a better solution or if that works well for you all. Thanks!

#638 2 years ago
Quoted from muzikman:

What is the proper kind of pin or post that connects the metal guide to the playfield at the top left horseshoe (u-turn)? Mine is missing and the ball gets stuck sometimes since the guide does not stay centered.
I found in this thread where a finishing nail was the apparent answer. Let me know if anyone has a better solution or if that works well for you all. Thanks!

It's a nail. My nail kept falling out so I just squeezed/tweaked the rail and just left the nail out and it holds in place just fine. You could glue the nail in and that would probably be good also.

#639 2 years ago
Quoted from zippydapinhead:

Guess what I got today...

Old one wasn't too bad, but damn this new one is freaking beautiful!

I am totally blown away by the quality of my new backglass too. It was a total game changer and totally worth the investment. Now for some touch up on the playfield. This machine is a blast. I finally replaced the 40 pin interconnect on the cpu/driver boards and all the intermittant bugs seem to be gone.

2 weeks later
#640 2 years ago

My coin entry slots were cracked, etc. Today I was inspired to do something different. I know it is unconventional and I like it.

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2 weeks later
#641 2 years ago

OK, fellow BK'ers. Yes, the BK2K lions bothered me too. In my quest to make it more machine accurate I really liked the green dragons and noticed that no one seemed to have done anything with them. So, I will be working up green dragons to replace my post era BK lions on my coin entry slots. In the meantime, I liked the green dragons so much that I came up with a custom instruction card.

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#642 2 years ago

Hi guys
has anyone replaced their leaf trough switches with micro switches?

Someone has replaced mine with microswitches but haven't mounted them properly so they are flakey.

Anyone supply a correct part number for the microswitch and send a pic of how they are mounted.

Thanks in advance
Clive

#643 2 years ago
Quoted from PinballNZ:

Hi guys
has anyone replaced their leaf trough switches with micro switches?
Someone has replaced mine with microswitches but haven't mounted them properly so they are flakey.
Anyone supply a correct part number for the microswitch and send a pic of how they are mounted.
Thanks in advance
Clive

http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/310/bkmicroswitchkit.pdf I have yet to retrofit mine. I need to if I take it back to the Rocky Mountain Pinball Showdown again this year because that upper trough was the main culprit of the weekend.

1 week later
#645 2 years ago

Changed my coin entry custom to this, more faithful to the pin

IMG_0285 (resized).JPG

#646 2 years ago

C'mon someone has a repro playfield for me, right?

#647 2 years ago

Note: for those upgrading trough assemblies
----- change the ball kickout plunger to the
----- slightly longer one that is used on games
----- like Addams Family. ( Top and bottom ).
----- This upgrade will save the playfield from
----- the ball pounding while the ball is ejected
----- from its locks. You might have to have
----- the plunger made from old flipper used
----- stock.

#648 2 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

for those upgrading trough assemblies

Who are these people?
-mof

#649 2 years ago
Quoted from mof:

Who are these people?

Any buddy how bought or acquired a Williams Black Knight and or
a Williams Fire Power that did not have the upgrade kit installed
back in the 1980's when they were available from the distributors.

#650 2 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

upgrade kit installed

I wonder how current owners can check to see what version they have installed?

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