(Topic ID: 54503)

Black Knight Club...Members Only!


By mof

5 years ago



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There are 1329 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 27.
#1 5 years ago

Black Knight -- one of the best Early Solid State games ever made (System 3-9)

One of the best taunts in pinball, "Ha ha ha !" when you fail to use Magna Save in time.
Great theme.
Great sound effects.
Gorgeous backglass.
Beautiful playfield with every primary color represented equally.
Old school voice chip that sounds awesome.
One of the best multi-balls in pinball with the split level playfield (it cracks your brain -- watching two realms at once -- very fun)
Magna-Save!
Many firsts:
* First second level playfield
* First "downhill" playfield ball release mechanism (non saucer)
* First hurry-up (target value decending over time)
* First last chance ball saver on drain
It's certainly the meanest game in my collection. Most games are under 3 minutes in duration, if not 2 minutes.

I started up a Black Knight Club so that other Black Knight owners can share the over-the-top love for the machine as well as: repair help, restoration tips, part requests, requesting wiring photos, topper ideas, best LED usage, color matching tips, and upgrade ideas...

RESOURCES/IDEAS:
http://www.siegecraft.us/blackknight.htm (see the section on flipper upgrade and do this!)
http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/black-knight-topper (awesome topper)
http://www.rjbaudio.com/BlackKnight/bkextreme2.html (sick audio upgrade)
http://www.blackknightpinball.com/

[x] add to your favorites (do this now!)

-mof

#2 5 years ago

Black Knight is currently the 2nd favorite game in my collection, and it has forced me to reconsider my collection strategy. I tend to play my old SS games more than my System 11s. I can't determine if it's theme/nostalgia or PF design or the lack of music that is drawing me in more than the System 11's. Perhaps it's just that BK is my only Steve Ritchie and the speed and flow are too awesome. I can't quite put my finger on why Black Knight is my favorite. I *think* it's because I almost NEVER beat the machine. When I play my favorite machine, Diner, I will beat it every 5-10 games, and I know I can beat it, and my top high score is 3x the replay score. Not Black Knight. It owns me. My top high score is 1.7mm which is only 1.7x the replay score -- nothing to brag about. Perhaps that's why I love the game so much, I think I've beat it 3-4 times in 300+ games.

IT OWNS ME.
RESPECT.
-mof

#3 5 years ago

I really need to get a new batch of photos on mine, it's come a long way since I first picked it up. CPR silver knight playfield, mayfair backglass, and I also went and had the coin door powder coated in black/yellow too. Currently waiting on a replacement power supply after the pinscore piece in there had died a couple months ago... blah.

I just love the artwork, where the theme is what you see coming through the most, instead of having a bunch of big text block inserts everywhere like most games these days have. The gameplay is also fantastic.... simple, fast, brutally unforgiving. Probably why I have a Firepower sitting next to it.

I will NEVER part with this machine.

-Hans

#4 5 years ago

I've had mine for about 18-20 years, it had a very bad early life and had seen some dampness.

It's fully LED'd, backbox and playfield. I got tired of playing with 30 year old displays/connectors and also installed a full LED display kit into mine. It's an early model System 6 Power Supply with transformer in the head version.

I recently buffed out and rebuilt the coin door from better parts I had laying around.

// Error: Image 110648 not found // // Error: Image 110649 not found //

#5 5 years ago

I think LEDs really help this game under the old inserts. It's a very primary color game, and the LEDs work well with games that are designed that way.
-mof

#6 5 years ago

I'm finally in a club! My boards are coming back from Hans as I type and looks to be running within the week....summer project is the playfield swap with a CPR....update to follow. Oh also mine has system 6 power supply. Do we need our own special club?

#7 5 years ago

The blue and greens on mine were almost translucent. LED's were a HOLY CRAP moment for them.

#8 5 years ago

Can a BK owner, please check their BK and see if it has a label that declares what type of fuse should go on the back of the backglass board?
(see pic)
thanks!
-mof

BK_display_fuse.jpg

#9 5 years ago

Good call MOF. Black Knight has a special place in my heart as well. It was the game I played most back in the 80's in the arcades. I just picked up one a couple of months ago and am currently restoring it. It's almost ready...to ride! Great classic game!

Mike

#10 5 years ago

Also, I couldn't find a label for this one in the base rear of the machine... Anyone have a label saying what kind of fuse it should be?

(see pic)

thanks!
-mof

bk_cabinet_base_fuse.jpg

#11 5 years ago

Can a BK owner, please check their BK and see if it has a label that declares what type of fuse should go on the back of the backglass board?
(see pic)
thanks!
-mof

10 amp 32V

Here is my PF, I bought this game NIB back in '06.
Steve played it and he liked it.

BKPF_001.jpg 673255495_6p9VW-M.jpg 673255412_9vanP-M.jpg

#12 5 years ago
Quoted from mof:

Also, I couldn't find a label for this one in the base rear of the machine... Anyone have a label saying what kind of fuse it should be?
(see pic)
thanks!
-mof

GLH 8 125V

10
#13 5 years ago

Here's the topper I made for my Limited Edition BK.
http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/black-knight-topper

topper.jpg

#14 5 years ago

Can anyone tell me what LEDs I would need for black,knight....I want the ones that don't flicker preferably.....also anyone have an extra backglass or know where I can get one mine is trashed. Thanks.

#15 5 years ago

I used Cointaker 90 degree for he inserts and warm white frosted for the GI. Their super bright and such are just too bright for me. Shouldn't have any flicker issues with any of the bayonet base pieces on the market, I haven't found any that aren't rectified except cheap wedge based stuff.

Mayfair amusements has nos back glasses from an early 90's re-run, very very nice

#16 5 years ago
Quoted from HHaase:

I used Cointaker 90 degree for he inserts and warm white frosted for the GI. Their super bright and such are just too bright for me. Shouldn't have any flicker issues with any of the bayonet base pieces on the market, I haven't found any that aren't rectified except cheap wedge based stuff.
Mayfair amusements has nos back glasses from an early 90's re-run, very very nice

I think Mayfair is history, the link I have no longer works and I couldn't find them with a Google search.

#17 5 years ago

This is the 4th Black Knight machine I have owned. I have had it since 1997.

BK1.jpg BK2.jpg BK3.jpg

#18 5 years ago

Huge Victory.
I haven't done the vid1900 flipper repair just yet on my upper or lower flippers on BK. But when I rebuilt the flippers on my Cyclone, I learned the importance of sustained tight contact while CLOSED for maximum flipper strength. I was thinking, "Wait a second, maybe I can make my BK lower right flipper stronger to make the long ramp shot... My problem is I like a fast table, so I have the pitch set at 6.5-6.7 or so, and I can only make the ramp in 1/4 shots -- the shot has to be perfect. Now I can make it more like 2/5 times, and that's a big difference. The spinner seems to take so much out of the shot.

So, the victory is in finally learning how to get more power out of the flippers by making a small adjustment. I also sanded the flipper button switches for best contact, and I discovered very quickly how tricky it is to set up the flipper switches well so that the upper flippers move JUST after the bottom flippers do. For a while I was getting the lowers only. Very tricky business. But I finally got it back into a good spot. I think my game is playing better now after all the tinkering.

enjoy!
-mof

#19 5 years ago

What a difference new drop target stickers make.
There were no drop target stickers when I bought this machine from a fellow Pinsider. They were clean, but no stickers. I see that the original ones are more pink in color, but the ones I got from Bay Area Amusements were actually maroon -- almost matching the drops themselves. I am not a fan of pink, and I don't see pink anywhere on the Pin. I am happy with the maroon stickers.
-mof
BK_new_stickers_on_drops.jpg

#20 5 years ago

They are not pink they are salmon and should match the sticker on the cap.
AM repros were redder because Alan thought it was faded but it isn't fade it is supposed to be that color.

#21 5 years ago
Quoted from tracelifter:

They are not pink they are salmon and should match the sticker on the cap.
AM repros were red because Alan thought it was faded but it isn't fade it is supposed to be that color.

What sticker on what cap?
-mof

#22 5 years ago
Quoted from mof:

What sticker on what cap?
-mof

Look at Silverunicorn's pic, the original cap is hot stamped with a fleur de lis pattern and a sticker on the pop bumper cap.
Most of the originals were broken not in gameplay but from people soldiering them with the balls in the game.
The caps are unobtainium.

#23 5 years ago
Quoted from tracelifter:

Look at Silverunicorn's pic, the original cap is hot stamped with a fleur de lis pattern and a sticker on the pop bumper cap.
Most of the originals were broken not in gameplay but from people soldiering them with the balls in the game.
The caps are unobtainium.

Ah. ok. Good info.
-mof

#24 5 years ago

Always possible to make your own pop bumper caps. I did this a couple years ago for mine.

http://www.siegecraft.us/popbumper.htm

#25 5 years ago

Look at Silverunicorn's pic, the original cap is hot stamped with a fleur de lis pattern and a sticker on the pop bumper cap.
Most of the originals were broken not in gameplay but from people soldiering them with the balls in the game.
The caps are unobtainium.

Mine was a repro.

bkcap.jpg

#26 5 years ago

That is one of Alan's caps he used the original stamp to make them.
The color difference on the decal is very subtle and you don't see it unless they are side by side.
He gave me one at the Hollywood Park show, I put it on my game and the original is in the coinbox.

#27 5 years ago
Quoted from mof:

Huge Victory.
I haven't done the vid1900 flipper repair just yet on my upper or lower flippers on BK. But when I rebuilt the flippers on my Cyclone, I learned the importance of sustained tight contact while CLOSED for maximum flipper strength. I was thinking, "Wait a second, maybe I can make my BK lower right flipper stronger to make the long ramp shot... My problem is I like a fast table, so I have the pitch set at 6.5-6.7 or so, and I can only make the ramp in 1/4 shots -- the shot has to be perfect. Now I can make it more like 2/5 times, and that's a big difference. The spinner seems to take so much out of the shot.
So, the victory is in finally learning how to get more power out of the flippers by making a small adjustment. I also sanded the flipper button switches for best contact, and I discovered very quickly how tricky it is to set up the flipper switches well so that the upper flippers move JUST after the bottom flippers do. For a while I was getting the lowers only. Very tricky business. But I finally got it back into a good spot. I think my game is playing better now after all the tinkering.
enjoy!
-mof

Nice job MOF. I had to do the same thing...fine-tune the cab switches and the EOS switches. Makes a huge difference. Also put a small amount of 3-in-1 oil on the spinner where metal meets metal and that sucker will spin like crazy and not slow down your ball as much too.

Mike

#28 5 years ago
Quoted from papazit1963:

Nice job MOF. I had to do the same thing...fine-tune the cab switches and the EOS switches. Makes a huge difference. Also put a small amount of 3-in-1 oil on the spinner where metal meets metal and that sucker will spin like crazy and not slow down your ball as much too.
Mike

You gave me a great idea - I'll dismantle the spinner and sand/smooth/clean out the parts real good - I would hate any oil to splatter onto the PF, so I won't use any above the PF. I'll have to run a few tests first to prove the before/after is a success.

I bought new decals for my spinner but I decided against using them, since I don't want to add friction (at contact) or weight to the spinner itself.

-mof

#29 5 years ago

I am an official member of The Black Knight Club. I like that. Sounds cool.
I bought mine a few months back and it was a case of the good, the bad and the very ugly. The playfield looks great but the cabinet was carved and the wiring under the playfield was so scary I didnt even turn it on. I have never dove this deep into a pin but knew what had to be accomplished before I would be satisfied. After what seems like 1,000 hours of sanding I finally have it prepped for the stencils and a new bottom installed. I taught myself to solder correctly on this pin and went thru every connection, replacing the electrical tape with heatshrink to complete it. I bought a decent buffing wheel set up and currently in the process of making things shiny again. Oh yeah, I discovered that there are do's and don'ts to buffing.
I have to say that even though I have owned pins for over a dozen years I have learned more about them by tearing into Black Knight and attempting to bring it back to life. Although I have slowed down quite a bit lately, this thread has motivated me again to get back to it. I just hope I will be able to put it all back together again. I know I can count on my fellow Black Knight Club members for assistance.

blackknight7.jpeg
This pic always gives me pinwood!

#30 5 years ago
Quoted from Silverballer:

I am an official member of The Black Knight Club. I like that. Sounds cool. This thread has motivated me again to get back to it. I know I can count on my fellow Black Knight Club members for assistance.

Glad to hear it! That's one helluva glossy PF right there.
-mof

#31 5 years ago

I have been told Ron Kruzman is responsible for this beautiful playfield. Seeing is believing.

#32 5 years ago
Quoted from mof:

I would hate any oil to splatter onto the PF, so I won't use any above the PF. I'll have to run a few tests first to prove the before/after is a success.

The tiny bit of oil is not going to splatter. Just put a tiny dab on the tip of a toothpick, then contact that to where the spinner meets the spinner frame. This is about the only place I use oil on any of my games. But it really makes a big difference.

Mike

#33 5 years ago
Quoted from Silverballer:

This pic always gives me pinwood!

Awesome picture...

Mike

#34 5 years ago
Quoted from papazit1963:

The tiny bit of oil is not going to splatter. Just put a tiny dab on the tip of a toothpick, then contact that to where the spinner meets the spinner frame. This is about the only place I use oil on any of my games. But it really makes a big difference.
Mike

Thanks to your post, I removed the spinner, and sanded both pins smooth. There was a little corrosion and factory yellow paint on the actual pins. I was surpirsed by this. I grabbed my exacto knife and made sure that there were no other paint ships allowed on the spinner pins. I re-assembled and added the tiniest dab of silicon grease on the arm that goes to the switch (no way to reach it). I was really happy with this. After re-assembly, the spinner definitely goes a few extra turns on a solid shot.

Then I realized what the bigger problem was. The INSERT in front of it. I have 8 pins now, and have never dropped an insert.

(During breakfast) -- I grabbed my new 12" C-clamp from Harbor, and a small block of 2"x2" redwood, sanded it smooth. Clamped it down. Removed it 10 minutes later. The insert is 1mm flatter now -- almost perfect. I took a few shots from the right flipper, and it FLEW through the spinner...!!! Party time!!!

I can't wait to drop a few more inserts on some other machines. I had no idea how easy it is.

I am wondering is there an easy way to get a few drops of glue in there, without removing the playfield? Especially on the older 1980 games where you can't get the playfield 90' (Straight up and down)... To just add a few drops of glue, I'd sure like avoiding removing the PF...

So much fun to make little tweaks that improve game play... love it!

thanks!
-mof

#35 5 years ago

anyone have an extra plastic ? Its the small half round plastic that goes above the three drop targets on the upper playfield .

#36 5 years ago

Here's mine, the high score is 3,504,180
I bought it 7 years ago and playfield and the cabinet look like huo.

PINBALL-009.jpeg PINBALL-012.jpeg

#37 5 years ago

Joined the club before there was one! Glad to make it official! Mine is a pretty rough one. Needs new flipper springs and bushings. Would love a new CPR playfield, but will probably just shop this one and sell it. Wait till a better one comes along. I love multiball and the bell in the cabinet scared the $HIT!! out of me the first time I got an extra ball! I have started hinting at selling it and my kids are rebelling. They don't trust that I will get another one someday.

Thanks for starting the thread mof. Can I stay in the club even if I am without a BK for a while?

#38 5 years ago
Quoted from HPR:

Here's mine, the high score is 3,504,180
I bought it 7 years ago and playfield and the cabinet look like huo.

Looks great!

What is your play strategy for reaching that high of a score?

#39 5 years ago

Yay Black Knight club! Got mine in January for my theater lobby. Made enough money in it sfirst two months for LEDs after the GI connector melted. Wax that baby every month, seriously better than a sports car. People come by all the time to play for the first time, but most remember it and have an awesome story about their childhood and playing it every weekend. They bring their kids back and they'll play pinball for the first time. Very cool, a lot of smiles to go around.

#40 5 years ago

Holy smokes, check out what this guy did for his BK audio! Wow!
http://www.rjbaudio.com/BlackKnight/bkextreme2.html
(added to OP summary)
-mof

#41 5 years ago
Quoted from mof:

Holy smokes, check out what this guy did for his BK audio! Wow!

wow is right!

#42 5 years ago

Just put it a couple hours on my black knight that just had its boards repaired by Hans....it plays great...well great for the $325 I paid for it....tomorrow having a garage sale hoping to raise the funds for my CPR playfield.

#43 5 years ago

Were you able to find one of the good playfields? Or are you buying one of the "seconds" left at CPR? Curious if it is a good one if there are more to be had.

#44 5 years ago

Yes, where did you find a playfield? Haven't seen any seconds at CPR either.

#45 5 years ago

Here is my Black Knight with a CPR playfield and Mayfair backglass.

P1050364.JPG P1050365.JPG

#46 5 years ago

That is one nice BK Blazed!

#47 5 years ago
Quoted from Blazed:

Here is my Black Knight with a CPR playfield and Mayfair backglass.

looks great, would love to see it with glass off in low light and low angle (from the flipper POV) for the gloss/shine shot.
-mof

#48 5 years ago
Quoted from tracelifter:

10 amp 32V
Here is my PF, I bought this game NIB back in '06.
Steve played it and he liked it.

Hey tracelifter,

we've talked about NIB Black Knights a while back. I am just wondering, did you do anything to your BK when you unboxed it in 2006? Did you strip the play field and clear coat the playfield? If not, how is your playfield holding up? Was there any battery corrosion? Did you do anything else or did you just take it out of the box and play it.

I'm only asking because I'm getting the itch to open mine up but I'm wondering if I should work on it before I play it.

Thanks,

QSS

#49 5 years ago

We played it right out of the box, typical trough switch adjustments but the rubbers were dead and needed to be replaced.
I took off plastics and changed rubbers cleaned a few oxidized sockets and wax.
Drops were sticky but broke in playing it, they were real snappy after I took it to PPE.
Also after assembly the on/off switch was faulty, the rivet for the lug was on the edge instead of the hole in the middle and the wire fell off.
I had one on the shelf and just changed it out.
A few of the inserts are cupped, I just left it original, I don't want to ship the PF.
I also tuned the spinner and lubed it with Eezox.
You will just have to see, even though it is new it still has sat in the box now for 33 years.
It may need a Big Blue, I bought one from The Real Bob Roberts but haven't needed it so far.

So far it is holding up great with no signs of wear.
Personally I wouldn't clear it just keep it waxed and keep it original.

#50 5 years ago

I've been reading forums on FF v PP v external sub woofer only -- and it sounds like the econo way to go is to start with a nice 100w 10" stand-alone subwoofer for $25 off CL and plug it in and see if that makes things more interesting. I grabbed this Sony for $25, ($150 new in 2002) and there are three more people with ~$20 subwoofers trying to get me to come over and pick 'em up. If they work out nicely for me, I'll be in for $105 for 4 subwoofers covering 8 machines. $25 CL amazon.com link » Will take pics after install, not that it's a pretty sight. I'll miss the storage space under each machine, but it's an experiment.

Results: Success! It's great to "feel" the 'horse galloping' sound... Looks like I can share 2 pins per Sub Woofer, unless I'm able to pick up an affordable mixer at some point.

Now I just need to understand the best way to get the wiring out the pin...

Fun experiment!
-mof

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