(Topic ID: 239436)

Black Knight 2000 - Help!

By jag8511

58 days ago

Topic Stats

  • 33 posts
  • 3 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 days ago by jag8511
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider


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#1 58 days ago

I've had this pin since Dec and all was fine until about a week ago when I noticed what I thought were LEDs starting to do some ghosting. It wasn't too bad and first noticed on the 4x light. About a week has gone by and now all sorts of lights are coming on / ghosting / or are stuck on at the wrong times. The main ones I've noticed are 4x, extra ball, W-A-R (when one is triggered the W-R both come on and stay on until WAR is complete and then they reset as they should), Jackpot and the M in RANSOM on the back box. Any ideas on how all these lights would be connected? I'm still learning to read schematics so I'm not sure. Any help would be great. Thanks!

I've included a link to a video


#2 58 days ago

Use the built-in tests to try to narrow down the signs.

Start at http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_9_-_11#Controlled_Lamp_Issues for more information.

#3 58 days ago

When I go through the light switches individually, I'm noticing that a lot of them have 1 other light connected to them. So when 1 lights comes on, a corresponding light comes on as well. When you go to test the corresponding light, the other will come on. It's like each time a light is triggering there are 2 lights that come on. That isn't the case for all the lights on the board. There are 32 lights that are connected in pairs.

#4 58 days ago

Follow the PinWiki information. It's likely you have a shorted TIP42 or TIP102 depending on whether it's column or row.

1 month later
#5 11 days ago

Did you get this sorted out?

#6 9 days ago

Update: I no longer have lighting issues. When I got the machine the upper Playfield GI was always on but would flicker / dim at times. If I would wiggle the connector for J1 on the Upper Playfield Interconnect Board they would act as they should. I decided to de-solder and re-solder J1 and J2 since the traces are connected. That fixed the lighting issues. However, I now have coils that randomly fire, most notable the coil that kicks out the multi ball. It has been awhile since I tested so I will figured out what is triggering what and update. J1’s connector was replaced by previous owner.

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#7 9 days ago

I definitely would run a switch test on all the switches, including the trough switches under the apron. Use a ball to be sure they are registering with it. If you use your finger and find a switch does not register until it is below the surface of the playfield, then a ball would not register the switch.

#8 9 days ago

After running individual tests:

Left sling fires twice
Left target bank creates a spake on the upper IC board
05 05 A side, which is “unused” blinks the middle flashers in the back box, blinks flasher behind the middle drop targets and sparks a bit from the upper IC board

05 06 C Side - when it flashes the ball kick to the upper Playfield fires as well but it is very weak (it fires normal when I test it individually)

Left and right through lanes causes the middle drop target bank to fire

Spelling WAR makes the kicker going to the upper Playfield fire numerous times

Lowering the bridge by hitting the targets on the draw bridge cause the multi ball kicker to fire numerous times

Hitting the K N I drop targets makes the kicker going to the upper Playfield fire numerous times

That is all that I could tell that was going on. It should be noted that when the game is running the left sling only fires once and acts as should

The game worked flawlessly until I re soldered the upper IC board , J1 and J2

#9 9 days ago

Were the red jumper wires already on the board, or you added them?

#10 9 days ago

Already on the board. The traces are trash. I took them off to see what was under and the traces were broke.

#11 9 days ago

Can you raise the upper playfield and run the test again? I've worked on one in the past where the wires are getting pinched as the upper Playfield was lowered. I never was able to figure out which wire was but I had to bend them a certain way to make it work

#12 8 days ago

Not any pinched wires that I can see. Makes no difference if the upper Playfield is raised or not. Still getting things that randomly fire.

#13 8 days ago

Was that the switch test you ran in post #8 ?

Try unplugging the J1 and J2 you had resoldered. I don't think it has anything to do with the issues, but intestered in knowing.

#14 8 days ago

If I unplug j1 and j2 everything tests as it should but obviously no power to the GI or pop bumpers or draw bridge. If I only unplug j2, everything tests the same. It’s when I plug in j1 that it causes the problems. That is the connector that was repaired.

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#15 8 days ago

That helps. Which board is this? The board under the playfield?

#16 8 days ago

The upper interconnect board - located on the bottom of the playfield.

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#17 8 days ago

ok. With J1 and J2 unplugged, can you test resistance on the J1 board pins between pin to pin. Ex. pin 1 to 2, 2 to 3, etc.. If there is a connection between 2 adjacent pins, likely you have a solder bridge, and probably would on the connector on the other side under the connector.

If you don't get connection between any adjacent pins, plug J2 back in and retest J1 board pins.

#18 8 days ago

Ok. I see something off on J2 pin 1 shows a wire, but the diagram shows it should be at pin 2, just like on J1. J1 colors all match to the diagram and J2 does except pin 1. My BK2K is on loan, so I can't check mine. I'll have to see if I can find a picture somehow. Pretty positive that J2 pin 1 needs to be moved to pin 2.

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#19 8 days ago

This is where my inexperience kicks in. I’m not sure how to test electronics without a little help. I have my meter set as in the picture. Is that correct when checking if there is connections between the pins on J1. Am I correct in that there shouldn’t be a connection so my MM shouldn’t beep as I test the pins as you suggested?

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#20 8 days ago
Quoted from jag8511:

Is that correct when checking if there is connections between the pins on J1. Am I correct in that there shouldn’t be a connection so my MM shouldn’t beep as I test the pins as you suggested?

Yes. Yes. Just make sure when you do continuity test (beep) or regular resistance measurement tests, you do it with the game off.

#21 8 days ago

There is no pin on J2 pin 2 so I think pin 1 is correct.

I’ve got a beep on pins 2-3, 3-4, 5-6, and 7-8

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#22 8 days ago

Looks like I'll be around my game on loan tomorrow afternoon. I'll check out these things.

#23 8 days ago

Sounds good. Thanks!

#24 7 days ago

pins 4-5 also seem to get a beep when testing on J2. The rest of the pins test ok on J2.

Not sure if that helps or not but thought I would test J2 as well.

#25 7 days ago

Ok. J1 pin 1 to 2, 2 to 3, 3 to 4, etc did not have any shorts between pin to adjacent pin. I tested J2 the same way and none of those were shorted either.

#26 7 days ago

J1 and J2 both have no pin 2 and both J1 and J2 have orange wires going to pin 1.

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#27 7 days ago

I moved the orange wire on j1 to pin 1 instead of 2 like your machine. Here is a better picture on the back of my upper interconnect board.

I took the board out and retested the pins. Looks like the pins on both 2-3 and 3-4, j2 and j1 are only making the beep and both have burn marks by them. So pin 3 seems to be the common issue here. Not sure why I got some beeping on a couple others last night. But I think we are on the right track.
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#28 7 days ago

Here is a better view. I took off the J1 pins and tested again. Same results. Pin 3 seems to be the issue. Could the trace between pin 3 on J1 to J2 be bad? Where do I go from here? Making progress!

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#29 6 days ago

So to sum up, appears the BK2K manual is wrong as it shows J1 and J2 having pin 2 connected instead of pin 1.

#30 6 days ago
Quoted from jag8511:

Here is a better view. I took off the J1 pins and tested again. Same results. Pin 3 seems to be the issue. Could the trace between pin 3 on J1 to J2 be bad? Where do I go from here? Making progress!
[quoted image]

I would remove J2 as well. Seems to be a solder bridge between pins under the connector. Once you remove J2, I would clean both sides of the board with a toothbrush and alcohol really well to get the flux off the board between the solder pads.

Make sure you retest the board again before installing new connectors.

#31 5 days ago

I had to use a screw driver to chip away anything between the pads. I didn't do the best job and slipped a couple times. I then cleaned the best I could with a toothbrush and alcohol. That worked!! Everything tested as it should on my MM. I put the board back in and everything is working. pinballmaniac40. You did it again. Thanks for the help and education!

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#32 5 days ago

Excellent. Good job locating your initial flickering GI issue. Enjoy!!

#33 5 days ago

pinballmaniac40 Thanks again! The game plays awesome. Now on to the pinbot I saw you posted there too. I updated that thread.

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