Black Knight 2000
Williams, 1989You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider ksuwildcatfan.
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I’m part of the club! Got a killer deal on a three-pin lineup, one of them being BK2K.
Hauled it downstairs last weekend. While it plays fine and all..I’ve got a lot of work ahead.
Nevertheless, I’m thrilled to own it! The music is so damn cool.
77EB5E55-0904-4461-84B6-5A1280C806B6 (resized).jpegQuoted from gunstarhero:Right on!
Unrelated but... I know AF-TOR is rare, however I've been seeing them pop up everyplace these days. Weird!
It’s uncommon for sure (the number I’ve heard is 400) but I imagine people get bored with it quickly. I like it, but it’s not exactly revolutionary, at least in 2019, from a gameplay perspective. People are probably afraid of having to replace impossible-to-find parts, too, i bet.
I love mine, and for $1000 I think I did okay.
360A68EF-937D-4D8F-9F2C-F7C205035864 (resized).jpegQuoted from topkat:Just put on some metal mods pop bumper decals. Easy mod and I like the effect with the red chrome .
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Those look great. I ordered a set of red britecap evos to try.
Getting closer on this thing. LED swap is basically done except for all those annoying flashers, and I had to use white bulbs a few places where colored would look better..
Replacing the flippers suuuuucked. The bottom pair had to be pried out with pliers because the retaining clip refused to loosen up. I had To go through the left (new) flipper multiple times because the brand new coil was defective and wouldn’t hold the flipper. Instead, it just chartered. Finally gave in and soldered in another new one. Good to go.
What a fun game.
00064658-6F78-4484-9DBA-F502CF60F678 (resized).jpeg38F80336-DC07-4689-B5F6-0D896E0A493C (resized).jpeg7C63A84D-D1A5-4C3E-9F69-ADD1FF8DC1F8 (resized).jpegQuoted from KJS:Such a good game when set up fast!!
I used some inverted starpost leds to light up the alleys.
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That’s a great idea.
Your playfield looks like a sheet of glass!!!
Finally back in the club after selling mine several years ago. I regretted that a lot but at the time I needed some other games in my collection and BK2K had to be the sacrificial lamb. I finally feel like my collection is good enough to support having BK2K again.
This one is filthy, with crap mylar and some pretty meh wear outside of the mylar but it plays well in spite of all that. The LEDs are absolutely heinous...
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Quoted from dar8dar:I say your right
Not sure why people do that, especially to games that are already dark to start... it won't be that way for long.
Cleaned and waxed, PBL clear silicone rings, and Comet 2SMD cool white GI. Backbox was a mix of 2SMD warm, some domeless white 1SMD, and some weird 2SMD faceted-ish kinda bulbs.
I'll probably play around a bit more with the configuration in the backbox and maybe add a few spots here and there.
It cleaned up pretty nice and plays great but it's definitely NOT a restore candidate (without swapping at least the upper) unfortunately. It is what it is.
20220406_150020 (resized).jpg20220406_150037 (resized).jpgreceived_680875436581151 (resized).jpegI've got a bunch of flashers that aren't working. Looks like someone got a wild hair up their ass and decided to LED... kind of. My flipper lane guide flashers (both sides) have LEDs but won't flash. Tried new LEDs as well as incandescent, no dice. Both flashers up top are LED and they work. Most of the back box is incandescent and those appear to work. Under the uturn is incandescent and works. Most of the others on the playfield appear to not work.
Are the aux and interconnect boards the two potential problem areas or are there other places to check also?
20220413_224843 (resized).jpgOff we go for a health check / nvram / light servicing. Probably thinning the herd a bit soon, idk.
That GI plug....yiiiiikes. I'll repin that while I'm at it.
Well, boards are back. I'm still fighting flasher issues. I get voltage at the socket during solenoid test, just like at other (working) flashers. Swapped bulbs. Nothing. I don't get it. I have like 4 that just don't seem to work: flipper lanes, far left (under the upper PF), and the top in the head (BLACK KNIGHT lettering). I believe all the others work.
If it's not any of the boards in the head, but I have voltage at the sockets... where do I look next?
20220705_214628 (resized).jpgQuoted from Dwboca:I'm having similar issues with mine though the mentioned lights/lamps do work when I press the flipper buttons.
I'm sure it's something stupid somewhere under the playfield or in the loom. It's weird, because I get voltage at the flashers that aren't working. But my interconnect was serviced and my understanding (probably wrong) is that the flasher warming resisters are all on that..so... I don't know. I'll get it figured out so someone else doesn't have to.
Quoted from Dwboca:If I can sort it out ill post here
Likewise!
Quoted from DumbAss:The flashers in this game are all switched (A/C multiplexed). You should only have voltage present when the C side is switched in. This is typically momentary (seconds in duration) when the software energizes the A/C relay. How are you measuring this? What is your definition of "get voltage"?
You should quote which flashers work and do not using the manual descriptions. The better your descriptions the more likely you will get help. Bonus points if you using the table nomenclature (1C-8C).
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First thing is to actually verify that the drive transistors for solenoids 1-8 work. Make sure that solenoids 1A-8A work in test. If they all work then 1C-8C should work as well if the flasher supply voltage is switched in with the A/C relay switch.This is likely due to installing all LED flashers (no incandescents). This causes a brief flash of 3C/4C/6C/7C when the flippers are energized. There is a thread on this forum that describes this and how to prevent or fix it.
Those resistors on the interconnect board are not warming resistors. They are current limiting resistors. If I assume that the same flashers that don't work in the playfield are the same flashers that don't work in the backbox (insert) - you can verify with the wire colors to be sure - then the common point of failure is the interconnect board. There are board repair technicians out there who offer "repair" services that I have had to re-repair because they were not tested. The same thing applies to "I bought a new board so it can't be bad" - I have seen a brand new Rottendog board with an IC installed with a bent leg not in the socket. Clearly that board was never tested before being sold/shipped.
Great response and truthfully I was hoping you would. I'll pour over this tonight in hopes that it gives me some clarity.
Quoted from La4s:To quote KSUWildcatFan "Give me your money!"
Congrats on the game.
Ha ha!
I have some financial stuff to tackle and I'm eyeing a TNA2.0. BK2K will be missed in my row, but I'm confident it went to a good home!
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Topeka, KS
Vancouver, BC