Just joined the club yesterday. This pin is my grail as well. I've wanted one ever since I first played it as a child in a pizza place. Question does anyone have a moment to take a picture of the way their machines flipper switches are wired. Everything in game works without issue. However, when I hit a high score and get to put in initials only the left flipper button allows me to cycle through the letters the right button does nothing. As a note the flippers flip as I'm pressing the buttons on character entry is that right? (I wouldn't think so) also the left flipper cycles the win and war letters, from memory I thought the right flipper did that. This machine is in great shape but they did some weird stuff like they put a arcade button on the front of the machine as a credit button (Took the wires right from the coin slot) no idea why they did that when free play exists but I fixed that off the bat. I only mention it as it seems like they had some idea of how to wire things (Stupidly or otherwise) so I didn't know if this would be an obvious fix. Thanks for any help. Very excited!!!

Here are pictures of some of the switches. Any idea what those spade connectors go to?

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Thanks for all the help. Seems like everything is wired in correctly ty for the page number in the manual btw sometimes finding stuff can,be over whelping. I'll buy a replacement interlock switch for the door and reattach the connectors. Do you guys recommend coin taker leds for this machine? Thanks!!!

Looks like I have a free floating white brown wire. Should this be hooked into the coil or eos?

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Got it, Makes sense. I will test the switch and see if it is bad and if so I will change it out (I think it's soldering in so that will be fun

Any idea which connector they are on when looking at the interconnect board? I checked the opto switches using the method described on pin wiki but all of them check out. If I was to do a switch test what should I expect to see if the board does get the signal that the right flipper coil is engaged.

Man you are the champ with laying the knowledge down. Very helpful. Gave me new directions to go in. I did as you said and tested in switch edge test both left and right flipper switches. Sure enough the left displays without issue but when right flippers are engaged no change. ( See pictures for confirmation). I apologize I feel like you've explained it very well but the next step is confusing for some reason. Should I replace U3 at this point and then that in theory should fix it. Or does the fact that I press the switch and then nothing happens tell me that something is wrong with the wiring back to the interconnect or CPU board?

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Tested U1 U2 and U3 all three seem to have the same or very similar values. I removed the board and tested it out of the machine so I could be accurate with the dmm leads. All of them seem to be fine accordino to the test steps I followed on pin wiki. I also did the switch test. See picture below and I got switch 57 to enable by using the jumper wire by following the steps on pin wiki. I also checked that wiring harness for continunity on each wire and they seemed to have solid connections. Could U3 still be bad and maybe just the test I did was wrong ( I do have a cheapo dmm but it does have a diode/ continuity test. Any other ideas. Dang, I feel like we aren't to far away on this one.

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I ordered a new interconnect board off of Marco specialty (The more I look at this board the more I start to wonder (Lot's of interesting wiring jobs on the back of it). along with a flipper rebuild kit and a cabinet switch (The one I have is pretty worn out). I'll report back and see if any of those things fix it. (God I hope So).

Dang, Dang, Dang. I installed the new interconnect board, new eos switch with capacitor and a new cabinet switch (Just in case). Still no luck . However the new interconnect board seems to have a new feature. It has leds that light up to tell you when certain things (Should be active). IE when I activate the left lane change, I find an LED lights up and then I see on the screen game information. However when I go the right the flippers activate but, no led light leading me to believe the signal isn't getting to the board in the first place although how the flipper could flip and that switch not activate is beyond me at this point. which connector on the interconnect board connects the flipper switch to the interconnect board? Anyone have any other ideas?

Thanks!

I have the old board in hand now and using a continuity test I traced the right most pin on connector J10 (To Cabinet) it seems to connect directly to one of the legs on U3. is there any way to check that wire to make sure it is working?

Got it working!!! See the pictures. I noticed when looking in the back box one wire being joined with a wire nut (I was certain it didn't come from the factory like that). And another wire soldered together with electrical tape covering the join. I inspected the color of the wires and noticed one was the same color of the wire that was in the cabinet for the right flipper switch. The other wire was the 50v to the right flipper coil. I took a look at those wiring jobs I mentioned in my last post and sure enough those wires being joined were originally on the board but because of two burned traces (which they tried to fix, very poorly if I might add) and when that didn't work they simply joined the wires together and then turned the machine on. They thought it worked so all done (Left a nice little mess for me to clean up) all working correctly now. If this happens to anyone else check the connectors on the interconnect board and make sure nothing is missing as it was likely a poor fix by someone not trying to spend $100 on the new board. Very excited it's fixed!

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Thanks man, yeah I agree. In this case they tried. It didn't work so they just rigged it together and left it for me to fix

I use 29's on both the botton right and upper flipper. It makes that long shot up to the upper playfield much easier. Also loops and getting balls up the drawbridge ramp is much easier. I got the same idea from that same video haha.

None and I've played close to 500 games on my own and we had leauge over here recently, worked great all night. No issues.

Does anyone think they will have reproduction play fields for Bk2k one day. Sure would be nice

Did you have any links or anything about it? Just curious. It would be very awesome. I wonder what the cost would be roughly? MY hope would be sub $1,000 but that might be unrealistic given it's a full sized pf and a mini pf.

The corners on the slingshots at the bottom tend to break off (Like with most games) so put some plastic washers on those to keep them nice. I think all the other plastics on mine are in pretty good shape but yeah play field wear is pretty common on this game. I am excited for the Micro reproduction BK2K Playfield to come out (Should be sometime soon).

If anyone has a lower play field that looks pretty good (I know lots of people are about to buy up the repro play fields that are coming out), Please PM me as I would be interested. Ideally I'd buy a repro one as well but that doesn't seem to be in the cards. Thanks!

Does anyone know where I can find a upper play field kick stand or whatever it's called lol. Mine doesn't have one so I normally have to prop it up with something while working on it Also does anyone know of the upper to lower wireform for sale that doesn't have the piece of support metal broken off. Mine is in decent shape with the exception of that support piece that attaches to the screw near the magna-save.

Still looking for these parts if anyone has them. I've created a wanted ad as well.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wtb-upper-pf-kick-stand-and-upper-to-lower-pf-wireform-

This 100%. Micro switches are pretty resilient but over time through use and dirt and such getting into the switch the little button on them tends to get stuck or makes it slow to go down or reset. Replacing it is the best solution as I have done that and in idk over 1000 games on my bk2k I've never had it miss when it was lit also nice to see another bk2k owner here in VA

I'm looking for one as well. One of the legs on mine broke off (Before I got the game) and all three should be installed to give it max stability. I'd buy one if someone was selling one (That wasn't broken lol).

Also still looking for the small metal kick stand for the upper pf as mine did not come with one.

There was a guy on here who was saying (I think) he could make them for $40 (each) but he would need one of us to send him the wire form off of our game. I am willing to do this but mine is missing the leg on the right (The one that attaches over top of or near the magna-save plastic. If I am able to get this guys attention would you guys be willing to buy one for that price? ( I was thinking maybe I'll have him make 10 or something ). I sent the guy a message but he hasn't logged in since may so I won't hold my breath Let me see if I can find someone local who can make them.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/need-lower-wireform-chute-for-black-knight-2000

Cool, I have sent this request off to various local welders to see if they can build it. I am assuming I'll have to get someone else to chrome the batch and then I'll have to source the spring with a rubber tip (Looks like a door stopped might work for this if I can find the right size lol). I will report back once I get some responses. Thanks!

Interesting, one of the welders wants me to bring him the part to see if he can make it. He seems to think it is stainless steel. What do you guys think.

Very cool, I plan on ordering 5 or 10 for the initial batch. My hope is if they turn out well I can get a bunch made and see if we can get them in stock with the usual suspects (I'm hoping to keep the cost down though).

Interesting... I didn't know they were made from 303 stainless. Also he seems to think they can be attached to each other using silver solder? I thought all this stuff was welded together. Would silver solder really have enough strength to hold a wire form together?

So I am starting to get back quotes on these from the welders (For example see picture). I feel like at 150 to 200 a pop no one would be interested as that doesn't even include shipping or the spring and rubber part. However that is just the first quote I got back so who knows
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So it looks like they would be stainless (Which is what the welders claim they are originally made of, my guess is we could discuss chroming but that would drive the cost up even more). I'd like to see if I can get this thing built for the shipped price of $65 (My guess is that would put the per unit price around $50 or so). I've got several requests for estimates out to local welding shops and as I get more details I will keep you guys updated.

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Yes we're on the same page concerning the part. It's the part that attached to the right sling. It has three hooks for screws. Yeah no worries, I'm not giving up let's see what other estimates come in.

Recently I've fixed this. Make sure the flipper switch on the cabinet is gapped correctly and the eos is gapped correctly as well. I put FL-11629s in mine as well but to be honest it's made it like stupidly powerful. Like on a scale of 1 to 10 its like a 9.5 I mean they are strong AF. Makes the back handing on the spin VUK and the long ramp shot much easier. However if you go that route make sure you resolve the weakness issue first as just adding a new coil won't fix it lol.

Welcome to the club! regarding the flippers, yes it is designed to have only one flipper switch not a stacked switch. The lower right flipper has a ganged eos which when flipped closes the outer most eos and gives power to the upper flipper. This is as designed. Other items, I agree, mine doesn't go very low. However it gets pretty quiet (Like I can easily hear the flippers over top the volume) so I would think a new pot on your game is in order.

To those waiting eagerly for the wire form, I am still working with various local companies to find the best work/ deal. I am hoping to get another quote back today.

I'd be interested in this. Let's Chat

As an update I finally have a local who I am working with who will be making three of these for me. One for my game one as a model and one for someone else so we can confirm the dimensions are right. Not cheap sadly, $175 just for the metal part not including shipping. My guess is these will be $200 or so shipped. Hopefully if Bob can get one of the models and get it into the CAD software and off to China or wherever perhaps we could get a better price. Either way it beats the broken ones we are currently dealing with.

Yeah take that off if you've upgraded to the side springs. You no longer need it and it can cause problems with the plunger and also make the flippers weak.

Yes thats correct. The ganges eos switch on the bottom right flipper is the eos for the bottom right flipper and it also supplies power to the upper right flipper. All lane changes are done via opto couplers on the interconnect board.

Sadly no, it like the lower pf wireforn are just not around.

I removed Mylar from mine and ruined all the inserts. I had to remove each insert, put in new sanded ones, replace the decals. Clear coat both top and bottom and then.... they ended up shifting somehow (I glued the hell out of them so I don't know). That made the clear move under the play field which made shit bumpy and me extra, extra pissed. That was all caused by dicking around with the mylar (I used the freeze spray method and was super careful but it still pulled up the edges of the inserts / the cracking on the insert decals didn't come off). The happy ending so to speak is that I installed one of those PF protectors from Germany and the bumpy issues I was having are gone for the most part and it makes the game look super nice (Sort of a glossy finish). Put a very light coat of novus 2 on the PF protector and it played just as fast as it did when it was on the regular play field.

My point being, leave the mylar alone unless you are some sort of expert and do put a pf protector overtop of it. It moves but barely I would highly doubt it would hurt the existing lifting.

Ha Yup, just one of those things. Live and learn. If I was to go back I would have not touched the mylar at all! I'd say this is probably an extreme example (I had much much better results removing the mylar on my Pinbot). However I still lost some insert details (Small stuff but still). I personally would leave it alone!

Quick question, does anyone elses bottom right coil get hot AF? I've rebuilt the flipper but it is super hot even after a short game (8 to 10 min or so). After that it seems to lose power. I've described my woes regarding this here but to no avil. Curious if that coil gets super hot on everyone game. (Like burn your hand to touch kind of hot). https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bk2k-hot-lower-right-flipper-also-gets-weak