Mirco supposedly has the rights to make them. No word on where in the list it's at on his end though.

I recently picked up a Black Knight. I added some Comet leds and translucent Titan rings

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Okay having a problem for awhile now I need to resolve.

My drop targets (usually right drop target) will randomly reset, even if already up. It happens inconsistently and I am just beginning to trace it through. It seems to replicate even if I swap the CPU board. I have replaced the drop target boards and redid the ends (though the were soldered on before so loose connections are out).

What else should I be looking at? I am just starting to browse through the schematics. I feel like the aux power drive board is part of the problem but it's such a basic board.. what could be wrong on it? Any assistance would be wonderful. Thank you.

Decided to remove my mylar and the glue residue beneath and outfit my BK2K with the full playfield plastic protectors. Lost a bit of the lettering on a few insert decals, but a sheet of peel-and-stick decals took care of that. The playfield protectors worked out well since they come in two (three if you count the ball lock trough) pieces and don't include the shooter lane, and therefore they don't have the movement and possible buckling that I've experienced when putting the protectors on other games, when the protector is all one sheet and covers all the way through the shooter lane. The protectors do change the ball behavior (not to mention the sound of the ball on the playfield) a bit, but it wasn't hard to adjust to that after a few games. I've also had a protector on a routed Getaway: HS II for 10 months, and it's held up impressively. Pix below, with some reflection evident off the backbox.

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Nice work. Please let us know if you notice any issues.

I need to replace the switch for the ball eject on the right side on the lower field. This is ball eject works periodically I have to turn off the machine and restarted to have the ball eject. Would anyone in the club know the part number of the switch or where I can order one.

I am wondering if anyone has experienced this. The upper flipper does not hold. My research tells me that this is the low voltage. I replaced the coil and the metal contacts (switch). It does not impact the lower flippers. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

I have no idea, but what about the right flipper button switches in the cabinet? Perhaps the round (capacitor, I think) at the bottom of those switches?

I am stumped. The lower right flipper seems to have two leaf switches. Speculating that somehow one of these feeds the upper flipper but I have not traced the wires yet. Left bottom flipper has only one leaf switch (and one on the upper right flipper).

One switch is NO. One is NC. When the bottom right flipper reaches end of stroke, it will open the NC - cutting power to the power coil, leaving the hold coil in place. It will also then close the NO switch, providing power to the upper right flipper. (The upper right flipper should then only have one NC EOS switch - which is opened at the end of the stroke, to cut power to the power coil, leaving the hold coil active of the upper flipper.

Yes, what Coyote said. Here are some labelled pix showing the switches of the lower right flipper with the flipper at rest and engaged. Hopefully you just need some switch adjustment.

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Thanks that is what I thought was going on. I think all of the leaf switches are set up correctly. Is there an auxiliary board that the bottom flipper connects to? Could there be any transistors or other electronic components in line? Or is it simply straight up electricity and leaf switches?

I screwed something up worse. I was testing the voltage and I must have blown something. Only my left flipper works, both right are now down. I tested all the fuses in the aux driver board (F5 I think is the right side flippers) They all tested fine. I thought I would buy a new aux driver board in case that was the issue, but it did not solve my problem. Am I missing a fuse that could be the answer? By replacing the aux driver board I have all new fuses in that, but could there be another place? I get power to the left flipper just fine. Thank you in advance.

Hey gang, i'm Steve, I FINALLY got my grail and joined the club today! Does anyone have any single pieces of a cabinet graphics set? I need both sides of the backbox and the front (coin door) piece. I really don't want to buy the whole set, the 2 biggest (and most expensive) pieces of the kit (the main cabinet sides), I don't need. I'll take any of the 3 you may have, please PM me if you can help... Please include your price and Paypal info in your message. Thanks!!

just joined the club yesterday, drove 340 miles round trip. Found it on ebay, really good shape. It's been shopped, LED'd, mylar removed without any paint removal. This is one of the few titles I remember playing in the arcade when it's new, every example I've played has been beaten to death and really skewed my memory of what it was like to play. This clean version has taken me right back to 1990.

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Nice find. Welcome to the club!

I recently added a Black Knight 2000 to my collection. This is a grail pin for me. Best Steve Ritchie game ever.

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Please help, I'm trying to find an secondhand manual for this game. Thanks in advance.

What is connected to J13 on the backbox interconnect board? Mine is empty and I feel like it shouldn't be...

If it is connect anyone want to take a picture? I've checked everywhere... no unconnected IDC plugs... so i'm not sure what i'm missing.

Complicated answer... J13 & J20 are almost identical, and J13 is a passthru from J20 but WITH additional pins. When I got my game, the R A N S O M lights in the speaker panel were connected to J20 and nothing was connected to J13, but the O & M lights were not working, and the R A N S lights stayed lit solid 100% of the time (like GI) so I switched the connector to J13 and bam, R A N S O M lights all work correctly and animate in attact mode, etc... BUT if you move that connector to J13, you will not use the 2 outer-most pins (1 & 12) in the header!

Short answer, if your game works 100%, and nothing is connected to J13, your good.

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Now, WHY does nobody make an overlay for this????!!! Or do they??

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I don't think so.. Mine has a very small smudge. It wouldn't be very hard to copy this simple art and make a quick label that goes over this. Better yet, make a simple stencil so you can spray over the whole section directly on the playfield.

Thanks for the detailed answer. Actually it seems only my R ever works and it stays on 100%... so I may end up moving the plug here shortly to see if it resolves this. Thank you for letting me know the pin connect too.

Added over 8 years ago: Go Figure... once I plug it into J13, works just fine. stupid J20.

Fine then... I did it! Well, i've gotten this far anyway... Gotta decide which way to proceed...

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I'd really dig adding one to my collection.. What should one expect to spend on a decent condition bk2k? I'm not a stickler for exact, or pristine. I'd rather not get one that a kindergartner has painted, but then again, maybe I'd be willing to put up with a lot.

Thanks Guys!

-Brian

I'd say somewhere between $2200-$2600

Finally done!! The ramps look better than new, got them back from Chris Royalty who was able to locate my stuff in all the chaos and take the time to make sure i got taken care of! Thanks Chris. New decals, LED's, black powder coat, plays and looks great!

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Thank you. I'm keeping my eyes open!

-Brian

I joined the club last weekend! Absolutely my Grail Pin, I've been looking for a BK2K for almost 4 years and finally brought home a pretty nice one. It feels good, but it's a bit sad that the hunt is over.

The game needs a good cleaning, but the previous owner did a nice job with the mechanicals and even added some LED strips in the U-Turn and Spin lanes. I'm still making adjustments, but I'll post pictures when I have it just right.

Does any club member have the artwork for the t-shirt decal that was originally on the backboard. The decal is black and white in Color. Thanks in advance.

This club has been super helpful in getting my game dialed in! Thanks everyone!

First, removing the black rubber post at the peak of the top loop does wonders for loop fluidity! I kicked JJJ off the board with a 6-loop combo last night!

This game also seems particularly sensitive to playfield slope. At 7 degrees it didnt feel the best. I moved it closer to 6 and the gameplay is much more dynamic. Rollbacks from the left side of the upper loop catch the WAR rubbers and bounce the ball towards the upper flipper much more frequently.

It's getting there!

I'm having an issue with the music on my game.

I swear there's supposed to be a drum fill between music cues. For example, between the "shooter lane" theme and when you hit the first switch to trigger the "main play" theme. Instead, I get dead air for a second or two.

Any ideas?

I'm looking for drop target and magna save decals, does anyone know where I can find them?

Little shop of games has them but shipping would be like $40.

I'm also looking for a replacement backglass or translite.

I brought the target and Magna save decals from Little shop of games, postage to Australia was $35usd, however they refunded me the difference of $24usd as the actual postage was only $11usd which I thought was fair.

Oh really? I'll have to look into that.

Finally got a bk2000.

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Hey guys, new owner here. Someone replaced the speakers in mine w/ 2way 4 ohm speakers and just wanted to ask if these were right? I swear I read somewhere it's supposed to use 8ohm speakers.. I don't wanna overwork the amp if I crank it

Does anyone have any adjustment tips for making the upper playfield loop and ramp shots?

See if the top of your ramp is actually a bit below the upper playfield--a common problem that could inhibit ball flow. If it's below, then lift the upper playfield, remove the screws that hold the ramp against the lower playfield, and insert washers in when you replace the screws so that the ramp is flush with or slightly above the exit point into the upper playfield. That could help. Also, be sure your upper flipper is mechanically sound and strong, and adjust its angle slightly so that you're not using the very end of the flipper to make the loop. IMO, a slight angle adjustment can give it more power for the loop shot--simply because you're using a bit more of the flipper body to make the shot. I can send pix showing the above if needed. Good luck!

Can any fellow knights of the lightning wheel help me?

I'm getting my major project BK2K up and running. I have a cable with a burnt and broken connector.

I'm having a hard time figuring out where it's supposed to go, and what size connector it originally was.

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That would be the notorious GI connector. That happens to 90% of Williams pins, go to the tech forum and do a search for "burned GI connector", you'll find craploads of info.

Yes. It sure looks like the GI connector. I believe that connects to 2J6 on the interconnect board. The hacked up connector on the right with the incorrect colored wires in the photo.

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^OMG!!

So I've adjusted the upper flipper and it's now shooting the ball with good strength, but I'm having trouble getting the loop shot to feed smoothly to the upper flipper. The ball seems to be bouncing off the rubbers about half way down and by the time it gets to the flipper it's half an inch from the flipper.

Could anyone post a picture of the area just above the flipper so I can compare how mine is set up?

See if this helps. Here is the flipper angle I use. Note also that there is a single, long white rubber around the posts leading to the flipper. With this setup--at least for me--I get a smooth and powerful loop shot and ball lock shot.

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Hey farmboss,
How did you make out with this issue? I have the same thing going on my BK2000.
I had a mis-adjusted EOS switch and burned out the upper right flipper coil. Now I
don't have any power to the right flippers. Checked fuses in the backbox and they are
OK. Started tracing power at the Aux. power board and the output there looks OK but
when I test voltage at the right flipper coil I get nothing.

Did you find out what went on yours?

Thanks
John

Hello Everyone! I've been a Black knight 2000 owner since the year 2000 (kinda just worked out that way). It's been a little neglected because of some issues but I am looking to learn to fix this machine but I have to say it has always intimidated me to do so because I really don't know too much about electronics and the like. Can anybody point me in the right direction to find some videos that train a newbie to work on pinball machines, maybe specifically a Black Knight 2000? Anybody here in Los Angeles that might have to time to show me the ropes. Here is a list of the problems I am experiencing.

1. Play-field Illumination lights are out. Maybe a fuse? Was planning on purchasing a fuse kit and swapping them out to see if this would fix the issue.

2. Draw bridge permanently lowered.

3. Right Side Drop Targets stuck. I think I may need to take them apart but I'm a bit worried about getting shocked or something.

4. Ball lock 2 does not register.

5. The x3 multiplyer light does not turn on even when I replace the bulb or use the bulb screw from another area. I am thinking there may be some damage to the board.

Like I said I am a real noob when it come to arcade machines but any help would be appreciated.

I also have one question. What do the batteries behind that backglass do, Just keep the scores even when the machine is unplugged? If your going to change them out is it better to do it while the machine is on or do you swap them while it is off?

Thanks in advance!

No worries. People in this forum will help you to get things worked out. The experience working on it yourself will help you to learn even more repair skills. No real need to know about electronics as there are many basic repairs anyone can learn.

Fuse is possible. Remove the 4 fuses on the interconnect (bottom long,narrow) board. These are for the GI lamps. Test them with the ohms feature on your multimeter. If all 4 test good, then look to see if there are any burnt pins on the J6 (far right) connector of the interconnect board.

Turn the game off to work on anything when you work on the underside of the playfield and you will not get shocked.

If you are able to get it to register with your finger because it has to go too far down for the ball to register it, then the switch needs to be adjusted. If you cannot get it to register at all, then you may have a broken wire to the switch.

Pull the lamp board out and resolder (remove the old solder before adding new solder) the male connector pins that the wiring plugs into. Likely is a broken solder joint.

You are correct. Use lithium batteries, instead of alkaline batteries, which leak faster now than in years past. Lithium batteries, rarely leak and will last up to 5 years.

Though, lithium batteries are good, NVRAM to replace the old RAM is better. NVRAM will no longer will require you to have batteries in the game. I could install one for you for $30, part and shipping back will be included.

You may consider starting your own need help to repair thread on this game.

Does anyone know where I could find a decent quality scan of the drop target decals? I've also seen decals, though I don't remember where, for the drawbridge targets, anyone know if those are available anywhere?

Red target for middle and left : http://www.actionpinball.com/parts.php?item=A-11315-3

Drop Target decals:
http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=PP&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPA-31-1463-563-LM