(Topic ID: 94003)

Black Knight 2000 Club - Knights of the Lightning Wheel.

By NextoPin

9 years ago


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There are 1,207 posts in this topic. You are on page 24 of 25.
#1151 86 days ago

Alright so I have the flippers working. Seems like most of the switches are working. Only a couple in question, mainly in the U-turn on the right side and the N in win is a bit flakey but well on my way to having this baby fully working! I am having a problem with the GI though. It seems that all of it is out including the backbox. The flashers are all still working. Doesn’t seem to be a fuse. Where should I look for this issue? Do I have a short somewhere? Thanks guys!

#1152 86 days ago

Check the connector in the photo that has the new trifurcan pins and to the right the one with the yellow wires. Mine were burnt up

IMG_1936 (resized).jpegIMG_1936 (resized).jpeg
#1153 86 days ago
Quoted from topkat:

Check the connector in the photo that has the new trifurcan pins and to the right the one with the yellow wires. Mine were burnt up
[quoted image]

As pointed out by a fellow enthusiast on Facebook, this is 100% the case for me. These will be repaired in the very near future! Just ordered my Comet LED’s for replacements on this as well!

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#1154 86 days ago

It also appears that the screw that holds my upper playfield was missing from the game when I picked it up. Does anyone know exactly what kind of screw is used to hold that in place? Thanks as always guys!!

#1155 84 days ago

Hey everyone! I'm hoping you can help me diagnose a problem I'm having with my BK2K. When I start a game after booting it up, it plays sound for about 3 seconds, then garbles the sound, and then the sound stops working. Here is a video of what it is doing:

Any thoughts?

Thanks,
MacJedi

#1156 84 days ago
Quoted from MacJedi:

Hey everyone! I'm hoping you can help me diagnose a problem I'm having with my BK2K. When I start a game after booting it up, it plays sound for about 3 seconds, then garbles the sound, and then the sound stops working. Here is a video of what it is doing:

Any thoughts?
Thanks,
MacJedi

Run a test of the soundboard. I’d have to double check black knight specifically but I’m pretty sure it falls into the era of system 11 where the speech is generated by the CPU and the music by the sound board. When you turn the game on, do you get the sound board single bong? Another possible suspect is alkaline damage on the CPU.

#1157 80 days ago

So I’m shopping mine.
The 4 clear large star posts between the u turn are of course lock-tited.

I’ve had luck in the past using a soldering iron to heat the base of the post from under pf, while working the screw from the top.

The issue is that the upper pf has to be up to work the screw, so I can’t simultaneously heat the bottom of post due to pf needing to be down cause upper pf is up! I hope this makes sense.

Anyone with thoughts? I’m thinking about positioning a hair dryer under pf to hit those posts, then close pf, raise the upper, and see if I can get them out.

Any ideas would be great.

#1158 80 days ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

So I’m shopping mine.
The 4 clear large star posts between the u turn are of course lock-tited.
I’ve had luck in the past using a soldering iron to heat the base of the post from under pf, while working the screw from the top.
The issue is that the upper pf has to be up to work the screw, so I can’t simultaneously heat the bottom of post due to pf needing to be down cause upper pf is up! I hope this makes sense.
Anyone with thoughts? I’m thinking about positioning a hair dryer under pf to hit those posts, then close pf, raise the upper, and see if I can get them out.
Any ideas would be great.

Break it. New posts are like .30c

#1159 80 days ago

I don’t think a hair dryer will be hot enough

Remove the upper playfield for top and bottom access at same time. Or heat the post with solder iron while raised, then lower quickly to crank on it.

#1160 79 days ago

So I’m getting close to finalizing bringing my BK2000 back to life. I did however notice that when I installed LED’s in the KNI and GHT light sockets, that they seemed to become extremely hot and even melt. Any idea why this would be happening and what I should look for to make this fix? Is it just bad sockets? Is there a hot wire coming from one of the molex connectors? Only other issue I have after that is the hurry up light is always lit on my playfield rather than only when activated. Any help is appreciated! Thanks all!

#1161 79 days ago
Quoted from WombatPinball:

So I’m getting close to finalizing bringing my BK2000 back to life. I did however notice that when I installed LED’s in the KNI and GHT light sockets, that they seemed to become extremely hot and even melt. Any idea why this would be happening and what I should look for to make this fix? Is it just bad sockets? Is there a hot wire coming from one of the molex connectors? Only other issue I have after that is the hurry up light is always lit on my playfield rather than only when activated. Any help is appreciated! Thanks all!

My spin light was always on, and it was diode on the socket .. one spot to check if you have not

#1162 79 days ago
Quoted from topkat:

My spin light was always on, and it was diode on the socket .. one spot to check if you have not

Will definitely have to check that out when I get back to work on it. The KNI and GHT lights getting hot and melting is the bigger issue I’m trying to tend to at the moment.

#1163 79 days ago
Quoted from WombatPinball:

Will definitely have to check that out when I get back to work on it. The KNI and GHT lights getting hot and melting is the bigger issue I’m trying to tend to at the moment.

I had the same problem on a different game and it was the transistor driving them had blown. Check and see if both lights are fed by the same one as that might be the culprit.

You can find how to test them here: https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Williams_System_9_-_11#Controlled_Lamp_Issues

#1164 77 days ago
Quoted from Strohz:

I had the same problem on a different game and it was the transistor driving them had blown. Check and see if both lights are fed by the same one as that might be the culprit.
You can find how to test them here: https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Williams_System_9_-_11#Controlled_Lamp_Issues

I’ve never actually checked for something of that nature before. Can anyone point me in the right direction on how to test a transistor? Thanks all!

#1165 77 days ago
Quoted from WombatPinball:

I’ve never actually checked for something of that nature before. Can anyone point me in the right direction on how to test a transistor? Thanks all!

First step is to find the correct transistor. In this case, it looks like Q56 contains all of your suspect bulbs. To test to make sure, (with game off) set your multimeter to continuity and put one probe on an outer leg and one probe to the middle leg. Do you get a beep? Repeat this by moving the outer probe to the inner leg and the probe that was in the inner leg to the out leg, beep? Repeat with inner probe going to outer leg and outer one back to middle. If any of these combinations give you a beep. It’s bad.

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#1166 75 days ago
Quoted from Jmckune:

First step is to find the correct transistor. In this case, it looks like Q56 contains all of your suspect bulbs. To test to make sure, (with game off) set your multimeter to continuity and put one probe on an outer leg and one probe to the middle leg. Do you get a beep? Repeat this by moving the outer probe to the inner leg and the probe that was in the inner leg to the out leg, beep? Repeat with inner probe going to outer leg and outer one back to middle. If any of these combinations give you a beep. It’s bad.
[quoted image]

Yep! Got beeps when I put one to the outer and one to the middle, and then reversed them and still the same result! Where can I get this transistor to replace it and how difficult is this as far as soldering board work? I’ve never done it before so obviously don’t want to ruin anything!

#1167 75 days ago
Quoted from WombatPinball:

Yep! Got beeps when I put one to the outer and one to the middle, and then reversed them and still the same result! Where can I get this transistor to replace it and how difficult is this as far as soldering board work? I’ve never done it before so obviously don’t want to ruin anything!

If you haven’t done it, I wouldn’t recommend trying on an otherwise good board if you aren’t comfortable removing components. If you are dead set on it though, the easiest way to remove is destructive removal. I’d bend that transistor back and forth gently until the legs snapped without putting pressure on the pads, afterwards you would then use a solder sucker with an iron to quickly heat the pad and remove solder until through hole is open and remaining pieces drop out. I’ll have to double check the type but the most difficult part of board work is the removal of the old component without damaging traces or burning the masking if you use too hot of a temperature.

Per the manual, the correct transistor is a TIP42. These can be had from various places.

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#1168 75 days ago
Quoted from WombatPinball:

Where can I get this transistor to replace it and how difficult is this as far as soldering board work? I’ve never done it before so obviously don’t want to ruin anything!

1 week later
#1169 62 days ago

Has anyone successfully removed the playfield mylar? Or is this playfield art suicide in the making?

Thanks.

#1170 61 days ago
Quoted from wrd1972:

Has anyone successfully removed the playfield mylar? Or is this playfield art suicide in the making?
Thanks.

I did w a pinbot and it was fine. Went slow w freeze spray and orange spray to remove glue.

I debated this w my bk2k, but my inserts are a little raised in spots and the mylar helps ball flow. I’d have to lower inserts etc and I’m lazy right now.

#1171 59 days ago

Okay the mylar came off in 5 minutes with freeze spary, and none of the paint lifted. The adhesive came off rather painless ly as well with some Goof-Off adhesive paint remover.

Are there individual decals over all of the PF inserts. Cant quite figure out how they did it, but I think this is the case. They are cleaning up weird and I think I might actually be damaging them from too much cleaning.

#1172 59 days ago

Here are some pics. I might be misttaking the adhesive for the clear and might be cleaning the clear coat right off the inserts.

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#1173 59 days ago

Post before n afters.

#1174 59 days ago

Dont have the before pics.

For whatever reason, the adhesive removed very nicely from the wooden areas of the PF, but not nearly as well from the inserts. Seems like the factory clear would be applied across the wooden and the inserts area equally, so I am confused as to why it is not coming off the inserts just as nice?

There were some visible abnormalities that resembled smudges on a few of these inserts that you could see through the mylar, and these are what I was addressing now that the mylar was off. Regardless, I have damaged this one insert so at a minimum, I will go ahead and replace it.

I am beginning to wonder if this PF had be cleared or otherwise tampered with by someone before I bought the pin. I wonder if maybe the mylar was added to conceal these smudges. Crazy thing is that the areas that were not under the mylar look much more like the expected factory finish than what was under the mylar.

I am now considering buying a new replacement PF and just doing a swap, but the only apparent replacement is a Mirco and with all the drama on that thread, I wonder if it will have issues. I really wish there were a BK2K hardtop, but at this time there is not. I just did the cabinet resto and it it turned out so well, it should really be paired with an equally like new looking PF too.

#1175 58 days ago

Let’s see pics. It’s prob not as bad as ya think.

#1176 58 days ago

Anyone have an extra wire form for sale? The right side one that runs from upper to lower pf?

#1177 57 days ago

So I tried super gluing bits together, which held up for a few weeks.

Went to a welding shop and they kinda dismissed wanting to help.

So I tried some super high gauge wire and a little solder and works perfect.

Just had to make sure the amount of wiring didn’t affect ball placement on egress.

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#1178 56 days ago

Glad it is holding. Bummer the welding shop didn't want to assist you. I'm not sure how I would handle the situation. I guess I would try some spot welds, unless JB weld could be used without it being visible.

#1179 56 days ago

Loganpinball was making new wireforms form upper to lower, I bought one a few years ago and it work great, looks factory too

#1180 56 days ago
Quoted from ODENONMYSIDE513:

Loganpinball was making new wireforms form upper to lower, I bought one a few years ago and it work great, looks factory too

He seems to be deactivated. I'd love to grab a non ugly one though. Who knows how long my fix will hold for.

ANyone selling one?

#1181 56 days ago

Where would one purchase the little brackets that need to be riveted onto the plastic topper?

I have the topper, just no mounts.

#1182 56 days ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Where would one purchase the little brackets

I just picked up some small shelf L brackets from Home Depot. They did the trick for me

#1183 56 days ago

Something cool i picked up playing tonight that I didn’t know about:

During double knights challenge, it’s a bitch spelling WAR while maintaining 2 balls and toggling the WAR rollovers.

I noticed that if I lock a ball in the double knights lock (far right lower pf), the game will hold that ball for like 10 seconds while I’m guiding the WAR rollovers and my single ball. Very helpful! Only having one ball going makes it much easier to spell WAR.

#1184 56 days ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

He seems to be deactivated. I'd love to grab a non ugly one though. Who knows how long my fix will hold for.
ANyone selling one?

I have one of the ones Logan made. You are welcome to it. I just won't be home to ship it to you till end of January...

#1185 56 days ago
Quoted from BobLangelius:

I have one of the ones Logan made. You are welcome to it. I just won't be home to ship it to you till end of January...

If Blackbeard doesn’t take it, I will!

#1186 55 days ago
Quoted from BobLangelius:

I have one of the ones Logan made. You are welcome to it. I just won't be home to ship it to you till end of January...

Pm sent. Thank you!

#1187 55 days ago

Okay I finally have my head wrapped around what happened to the inserts after I pulled the mylar. The Goof-Off did a great job of removing the adhesive as a whole, but it does seem to etch the plastic inserts. Looks like I kept needlessly working those inserts and the more I did, the worse they got thinking the adhesive was not coming off. So going forward if I use the Goof-Off, it needs to be used more sparingly especially since it works so much better than the alcohol.

So now I am seeing the crazing of the clear coat over the inserts, and this looks very bad and was much less noticeable with the mylar attached. So now I have started the process of removing all of the inserts, sanding and polishing them back to their new appearance, re-painting their black outlines, and finally, repainting the lettering.

Attached below are the before and after on the u-turn inserts. Looks like brand new. The worst part of this painstaking process is simply removing the lighting bolt inserts without breaking them. I have crafted a wood punch in the shape of the insert and so far it is working well to drive them out with a little heat. Its gonna take a while, but when completed, its gonna look fantastic.
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#1188 55 days ago

Also, can someone please give me this dimension for the B L A C K lettering? I just need this precices height as measured with a caliper so I can repiant it.
Thanks.

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Edit. Never mind, I just found what I needed.

#1189 55 days ago

So are you redecaling the inserts, or actually trying to repaint the lettering??

#1190 55 days ago

No decals. The rings and lettering is gloss black enamel.

The inserts are coming out nicely, and most of the crazing is coming out. But, there are still some minor cracks showing after reconditioning but thats as good as it can get. They are reinstalling very nicely and I am preparing to do the black outlines, then the lettering tomorrow. My goal is to do every insert.

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#1191 55 days ago

This game really needs a set of accurate insert decals. So many BK2K playfields could be restored.

#1192 55 days ago
Quoted from wrd1972:

No decals. The rings and lettering is gloss black enamel.

Are you just free handing them ? They look great so far!

#1193 55 days ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Are you just free handing them ? They look great so far!

LOL no way. I cut vinyl stencils on my Cricut and airbrush everything. I have templates that allow me to create the stencils fairly quickly. It took a while but I even found the correct font for the inserts, but had to fatten it up just a tad.

Here are three inserts having their outlines redone. The biggest limiting factor is waiting for the paint to dry do I can mask over it for the lettering. The lettering stencils are much the same but a bit more delicate.
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1 month later
#1194 22 days ago

Wow, I just managed to weld the broken mounting tab back on to the wire ramp to the lower playfield. I knew that if I could just get a good tack with it installed, the rest would be no problem.

So I lined the playfield with a leather apron and some blankets and had everything bolted up, and then just went for it. The initial tack took very nicely, and one I removed the ramp for a closer look, I was realized I was already half way home.

One more tack on the back side of the joint and it looks to be a very strong repair. I finished dressing it with a flat file, and it's ready to go back on. Whole thing took 10 minutes.

So yes, it can be done.

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#1195 22 days ago
Quoted from wrd1972:

So yes, it can be done.

Oh man that’s awesome! I’d LOVE for you to do mine. I have a coat hanger holding up the ramp where the arm that normally attached to the sling broke. I have the broken off piece for that but my middle one that you repaired was lost by the prior owner. I’m waiting for the last one under the upper playfield to go!

#1196 18 days ago

I have a set of BK2K plastics for sale. None are cracked. Asking $100.

Also have a set of yellow Titan rubbers for $20.00 in good condition.

PM me if interested.

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#1197 18 days ago

Eww you’re selling used rubbers.

#1198 13 days ago

Random question. Anyone looking to sell a BK2K within a reasonable drive from Louisville, KY? Reasonable being 4 hours or so.

I'm on the hunt.....

#1199 12 days ago

While I'm pondering the BK2K thing, question for owners. How much staying power does BK2K have?

I ask because it has a TON of nostalgia for me. The lights, the music. Yet, I haven't played it much in 20+ years.

I also had the same affinity for FH. Yet, now I find that game to be rather repetitive, boring and annoying. It was a dream machine 10 years ago. Now, I'm not sure I'd want to own it.

Just wondering how BK2K stacks up. I've own HS and still love that game. TZ is my all time fav. STTNG is up there.

I'd love to hear your thoughts on BK2K.

#1200 12 days ago

I have a lotta time on most system 11 pins. BK2K is tops for me.

It's fast. I love that about it. Different multiballs with different objectives. The light show and sounds are top notch.

Loop awards. Spelling RANSOM! And, contrairy to what some may say, theres much more going on than just right flipper. Hit the uturn a few times and start Knights Challenge. Million points for spelling WAR. A great player of this game will utilize that. Not just rely on keeping the ball up top.

To me, the game is a keeper. I cannot believe it's taken me so long to own one.

Buy.

Somewhat hard to find, cause it's sought after. I lucked out finding mine at the price I did.

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