3500-4k seems like the going fair price. Thats for one that has a bit of wear and might need a part or two. Not a project machine or mint one

https://pinside.com/pinball/machine/black-knight-2000

Theres a page like this here on Pinside for virtually every game ever built. Lots of useful info and sale stats.

I just bought a BK2K for $3200. It was likely more worth $3000 in my mind, but I really wanted it to sit next to my full-restored cherry BK.

It was overall decent shape, but certainly not a project. I did install LEDs, Titan bands, flipper coils and linkages. The cabinet is a little on the rough side plus the colors faded, but I will be doing a complete cabinet resto and re-decaling soon.

Once the cabinet is done, I will consider the value of this pin to be easily $4000.00, or I can smoke the WTF-sellers crack-pipe and value it at $5500.00. Regardless, it will be a very top-shelf BK2k.

4 years I have been looking for such a beautiful finally there

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Is that a clear-coated OE playfield?

No is protector look at the bottom the red part is missing on the top it is on it, I had it redone like this

Where'd that glass cover with the Williams logo come from?

it´s self made

I want one!

Morning BK2000 friends,
I've had a bk2000 for several years now and enjoy the hell out of it.
Hoping someone out there can provide some guidance on where to start with an issue I currently have with it.
The game resets at what appears to be random times during play. For example,
when I start a game and BK identifies himself, the game resets before anything else happens.
Othertimes it happens when hitting the drawbridge or hitting a bumper in the upper playfield or activating the lightning wheel. Not sure when or what triggers it. Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks much

If you have original capacitors on the 5v supply. I’d start with replacing them.

Thanks Mrg50. They are indeed original.
Ill start there.

The ball from the left kickback tags the T drop target, and goes STM 4 out of five times. Is this normal? Guessing no.

Is there a tweak that can direct the ball to a flipper instead?

Thanks

Try replacing the coil sleeve in the kickback coil. That should change the trajectory of the shot and is a cheap thing to try before bending the ball guide on the left

Good idea. Will do.
Thanks.

Thanks Mrg50. Replacing the caps did the trick....now for the upper playfield GI lamps.....
All the GI lamps on the upper playfield are out. I want to make sure I'm taking the right approach....
1) Check the fuses
2) inspect J6 and J7 on the interconnect for burned pins/connectors and the connection points on the smaller interconnect under the playfield (forget the proper name for it).
3) Test for voltage starting at J6 and J7 on the interconnect, then over to the smaller interconnect under the playfield to find where voltage isn't passing.
4) repair

I'm I missing anything?

Thanks much

Would like to get some opinions on converting the standard lamps on my BK2000 to LED. I've seen some photos on here with the LEDs and I'm very impressed with the results.
I do know it reduces the power draw and heat on the boards, which in turn, increases the life of the machine That is very positive for me.

Here are some thoughts I have:
What is the difficulty of such conversion? Is it as simple as replacing the bulbs?
How does such a conversion impact the value of the machine? Do you feel this is a positive or negative impact?

Looking forward to the responses.

Thanks

I replaced my bulbs with the 1SMD warm white from comet and I think it looks great. I found the 2SMD too bright for me.

What is the difficulty of such conversion? Is it as simple as replacing the bulbs?
Simple, Yes

How does such a conversion impact the value of the machine? Do you feel this is a positive or negative impact?
Positive. Folks around here seem to think that converting $100 worth of LED's makes their game worth an extra $500.

Black Knight 2000 also benefits greatly from an LED OCD board if you're going to install LEDs and want the original look.

Just finished restoring my BK2K with a new Mirco playfield set. Its working great, and looks beautiful. I have barely played the game before restoring it, so I -think- I found some oddities: Activating the Magnasave also activates the kickback in the left outlane, and adding a credit during a game also rewards a U-turn... Are these things normal?

Also, is there supposed to be a rubber sleeve on the metal post in the top right corner? There wasn't when I took the game apart, but I figured there should be one. But it seems to make it really tricky to make a full loop.

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No, a bumper there will hinder making the loop, and nearly impossible to make multiple loops. There are some super-thin post sleeves out there that can be used, but the vast majority of games out there have no bumper on that post.
Your new PF does look beautiful! Your old PF is definitely the worst BK2K i've ever seen!

Time to re-do the cabinet. Can someone please recommend a quality BK2K cabinet decal set? Im a bit learry of the ones on Ebay.

Thanks.

https://www.planetarypinball.com/pinball-BK2K-CABSETNG

I used the radcals from Mirco. Easy to install and they look great (though more expensive than the normal decals)

My BK2000 playfield is worn, and may be recoverable for restoration. I am curious on anyone with experience with the Mirco playfield as there are lots of complaints on them regarding their quality. In addition, how well is the playfield holding up with wear and tear? Any issues where the ball drops on the playfield (such as from the top level to the bottom, or at the shooter lane drop at the W-I-N lights?

Or am I better to remove the mylar, restore the worn areas of my playfield (mostly the magna save and the left outlane) and reshoot it with automative clear?

Thanks!

I'm also curious about this. They seem to be the only place I can currently find a playfield I'm looking for, but I also saw the complaints...

During the last few games the ball will fall off of the upper playfield without hitting the triangle wedge to the drop habit trail over the right flipper. If the ball is coming off the WAR letters and I don’t slow it down, it will shoot off the wedge at an angle and either go into the right outlane or the shooter lane trough.

Anyone have issues like this? Thanks!

I got a set for mine and it looks amazing. Dimpled and pre-drilled in just the right spots. Very happy with it. Not sure how it will hold up in the long term (installed it about two months ago), but so far no complaints.

Thank you for the feedback. Will order one soon.

I haven't really dug into it yet but I am about to shop one of these out. I am experienced in pinball stuff and did a brisk scroll of this thread, but wanted to ask if there were any must-have improvements or mods I should be looking for? It looks like starship has the upper ramp if my current one is too gross. The chrome on the wireforms is pretty rough but I've never sent anything out to be plated and am hesitant. I think I may leave it incandescent so I can make the ocd board decision later; I haven't played this title hardly at all. Thanks for your time and have a good day!

I used the 1SMD leds from Comet in mine, and didn't need to use an ocd board. I found the 2SMD too bright for my taste.

Hi looking for any help at the round table for trouble shooting my BK2K display all the sudden going blank. It was working one minute then not the next, I just opened the coin door to unjam a quarter mech and then all the sudden the display went blank.
Tested continuity in all fuses on the boards and all tested fine, tried a new ribbon cable I had on hand and also unplugged and reseated all cables to/from the display to the mpu, still got nothing and not sure where to look next. The game plays/sounds fine just no display.
Thanks for any tips!

Check high voltages to displays if you haven’t already.

Thanks, I have only checked the continuity of the fuses, I'm new to using my multimeter. So to check the voltage to the display I need to locate where the power is coming to it from the power driver board?
Also is it possible for the fuses to show continuity in the board even if bad = do I need to take the fuses out of the board to test?

It seems like you are not very familiar with testing voltages. Be very careful around the high voltages. The problem could be many things; loose/bad cable, failed power supply, cold solder joint circuit card, failed logic., etc. Testing the power is a very easy check and will eliminate it as a possible problem and allow you to look at other issues.

I’m not, have watched a buddy do it a lot and he gave me a multimeter and now I know just enough to be dangerous lol. Hate to have the game sitting idle but I guess I can wait till he comes back into town next week.
Are there any particular fuses I should pull out and check for this?
Thanks!

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Check F1, F2, F3 on the power supply board. Pull the fuse out or lift one side before checking.
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Also double check the value on the fuse is accurate while you have them out.

As others have said, be care checking the voltages since they will be around 100volts.

Set multimeter to DC.
place the black on the (black arrow) 3J2 pin 5
place red lead on the (red arrow) 3J2 pin 1 should read -100 volts DC
place red lead on the (yellow arrow) 3J2 pin 3 should read 100 volts DC
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Connector is lower left on power supply board. pin 1 on the right, pin 6 on the left.

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Awesome thanks so much!!

SOLD!

Machine - For Sale

The Simpsons Archived

Fully shopped/refurbished - “This Simpsons was previous listed for trade only, but I found the game I was looking for. Now looking to sell for the best cash offer. The Simpsons is fully working and was just ...”

2023-03-26

Patchogue, NY

Pinwizkid

3,800 (OBO)

Archived after: 13 days

Viewed: 382 times

Status: Sold (amount private)

Contributed to Pinside

Anyone want to trade for a Simpsons?

Follow up - after checking fuses sev times and reseating everything to/from the display and trying a new ribbon cable, I tried a new Rottendog display last night and Boom BK is back in business!!
I remembered that over the last few months the top display had some lines missing, so I guess it was going, and then all the sudden it just died.
Anyway the new display looks super crisp and when he says Give Me Your Money now I remind him how much his new display cost!(;

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Has anyone figured out the ideal pitch to set the game at to ensure that the loop shot can made smoothly? My upper flipper is rebuilt and fires the baller with perfect speed, but it tends to brick at the top right lane post.

Do you have a rubber sleeve on the top right post that the ball goes by? There’s not supposed to be one on that post so try and remove it if so.

Mine would never make the loop shot. I ended up shimming the UPF front brackets up about 1/8" which lessens the slope only on that UPF. Plays a ton better and the loop shot is definitely playing like it should. Still an occasional rejection, buts it's in play.

Sounds like you need to adjust the angle of your upper right flipper bat. Can you post a picture of it where it currently sets?

Can anyone help with part nos. and where to by the shoulder nut, or whatever it is called, that the playfield pivots on when lifted for service? My new machine has it missing on one side as shown in the photos below.

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I'm sure you could pick that up at a standard hardware store. Take the other one with you so you get the correct thread. Also, most hardware stores have spacers as well.

Two questions (after playing my BK2000 for over a year and still enjoying).

1. The Ball Popper loses power the longer I play. At first, the ball will come out strong and towards the upper playfield flipper. As the game progresses, the ball will barely make it out the hole, and will fall towards the WAR lights.
- Is that normal?
- What could cause this problem?

2. It seems like if I hit the drawbridge switch/light #3 hard enough, then it will come down, even though I am pretty sure that #1 was not hit. Is that normal?

Thanks!

I’ve been fighting my VUK inconsistency since I got the machine seven years ago and I haven’t figured out how to make it more consistent. Sometimes it comes out really strong and other times it just dribbles out. Definitely check your voltage on your coil to make sure it’s within spec but beyond that, I’m not sure how to make it more consistently come out with full strength.