Just bumping this…I went to the depths of Google and came back empty handed looking for stickers / decals for the apron.

Maybe I’m the only one that needs them!

I’ve never seen the BK2K apron art for sale as a decal, and it seems like those aprons were not survivors sadly… I had an operator sticker right in the middle of mine and removing it was very stressful.

Hello fellow Black Knight 2000 owners. I was hoping for a kind request of
a picture of the bottom Kickback assembly that is located at the left drain.
I am hoping for an O.E.M. Black Knight 2000 picture.
The games manual, and the main primary parts manual, are conflicting with
the parts numbers.
Much gratitude for your time, vec-tor.

Here you go, Is this what you need? I think you can zoom in.

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THANK YOU! RobW You are awesome!
It seems like the manual has some errors...
I am very thankful.
Kind regards.

Is there any way to advance RANSOM to troubleshoot the mode itself? It takes a lot of Spinning Wheels to advance that bad boy even on the easiest mode. There has to be an easier way. Anyone know the trick?

Lighting WAR and then shooting the drawbridge advances RANSOM

Much appreciated! That’ll be a lot easier to do!

I think you may have meant lighting WIN - the 3 lanes at the top of the playfield, then shoot the drawbridge.

That was it, thanks jrh7!

Whoops! Yes light the 3 top lanes that spell WIN, then shoot the drawbridge. Sorry about that, mixed them up

Hey all,

Thinking about picking up a BK2000 but a bit concerned that the game is a little too simple in terms of rules and viable shots. I may be wrong as I haven't played it (and I can't due to my location, so I'm buying sight unseen), but it seems the only thing worth shooting on the lower playfield is the left shot back up to the top playfield. Everything else appears too low value or risky (please correct me if I'm wrong).

Just wondering if the game has much replayability, and once the awesome banger of a theme song novelty wears off if there is much depth left?

Also has anybody made any updated rules? I'm actually tempted to look into this a project down the road but it's also not something I've done before.

Cheers,
Wireable.

Your assumption is wrong. Buy it, play it for at least 50 games before you even think of selling it. Most system 11 games are addictive, just as this one is. I have one and enjoy the hell out of it much as I do Taxi and Diner. I play the upper and lower playfields about the same. If you only play the upper or lower, you are missing half the fun. No ball save, so it is quite the challenging game.

Hey Bospins, did you ever find apron decals? I'm looking as well.

Simple compared to? Compared to the games in your owned list, maybe. But that doesn't make it not fun. Sure, it has an easy ruleset, that doesn't make it an easy game though. Or not addicting. Its kind of like TNA, the music makes the machine even more addicting and pulls you in. Like a lot of Sys11's, you have a few crappy games then bam, really good one. Have you played any sys11 games? While this is a lot more right flipper dominated just because of the upper playfield, I would say its pretty in line with all the other games of the era. If you have played them and liked them, then you will like this one IMHO.

I'll play the part of the contrarian here. I owned the pin for a couple months, a really nice example without any issues. The music is great, the callouts are great, excellent shots all around. There is quite a bit of adjustability of the game to make certain features more difficult.

That being said I thought it got pretty boring after awhile. It doesn't take long to see the end of the game, even if you're terrible at pinball like me. Compared to a lot of pins there isn't a ton of depth that will leave you with a sense of "what didn't I experience". I agree with the others that the R flipper/upper playfield criticism is unjust and the lower playfield has some fun shots as well. My space for active pins isn't very big so I used the BK2K to trade for another pin. I think in a smaller collection you'll want to cycle it through just to say you had it and "mastered" it. Worth buying if you think you can turn it over, it has a high demand so it won't sit up for sale for long.

One thing I will say is that it left me wanting to own/play the other black knights. There's a local routed BKSOR pro that is significantly more fun because I owned the BK2K.

Thanks all for you feedback. I think I'm convinced I'd enjoy it (even if just for a while), but sadly the seller sold it to somebody else while I was waiting for photos. It happens, especially when buying interstate and unable to visit. Will certainly keep an eye out for another to come up though.

Cheers!

Anyone have a spare left sling plastic?

Hi BK2000 fan!!

I need an info:

is there a way in the settings to have a magna save at the beginning of each ball? if yes, how?

Also , is it possible to gain a magna save once you used it?

thx

Stef

It doesn't appear so. Per the manual, adjustment 32 gives you the option to have it at the beginning of the game, but no option for each ball.

Hitting all the KNIGHT drop targets should re-light your kickback and magna save.

Is there any speaker/sound system upgrades available for the Black Knight 2000? I have oinsound on my other newer games and just wondering.

I replaced my speakers with pinballpro's:
https://pinballpro.net/shop/williams-black-knight-2000-kit/

I also attached an external powered subwoofer, so both together my walls shake.

Also, PinSound has claimed that they'll be releasing a system 11 compatible sound board sometime this year. One of those will take the game to another level for sure.

Thanks for the reply. I have been following the PinSound web site and waiting.

Some questions for my fellow Black Knight 2000 owners. I tried to address an issue I was seeing with slowly hit balls getting stuck between the top edge of the lower-to-upper ramp and post closest to the lighting wheel hole. There was an empty red narrow post and I tried changing it to the following making it even more difficult to nudge it out (tilt disabled). When I first noticed the issue and saw the empty red post I thought it might not have been that way from the factory and some questions came to mind:
1. Is this a legit ball entry path to the Lighting Wheel?
2. What does this area look like factory?
3. Does anybody have a picture of this area of the upper playfield I could use as reference to properly plug up this gap?
4. Would two narrow posts with a single rubber around them work? 2nd post being where that plain screw is in the gap.
Thanks everybody!

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Working on a black knight 2000
Would someone help me out and take a pic of the upper PF right corner not sure what goes here? Thanks

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This what you are looking for?

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No I need what attaches to the backboard under the wire form

jwilliams: On my game, a slow ball up the ramp can definitely drop down the lightning wheel hole.

I tried to take a picture, but it is hard to get the camera in there with everything blocking the shot. I have this metal piece, which you appear to be missing. In looking at the manual, I think it could be 01-9151 Ball Guide Baffle.

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This far under?

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If not the only other things are the two screws that fasten the habitrail to the backboard right?

Josh

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Yes that’s what I’m looking for
My wire form doesn’t seem to have that bottom section to screw into back board
First time working on one of these so I’m not familiar with the parts
Thanks

I just joined the club!

Well a week ago, but I played two games before a coil locked on , blew a tranny and somehow then had an issue on aux power board relay.

It's still got incandescents so I'll look at changing those in next few weeks (I've got a Diner to led also so a big comet order coming).
Does Bk1k suit Sunlights throughout?

It's still got mylar on the bottom pf but not the top, just some crazed and risen inserts up there except the N In WIN is worn (seems common)
The bubbling mylar is a little annoying, I feel it does influence the ball.

Few questions to you seasoned members.

I've quite ocd with how my games play, I like ball feeds to be consistent and correct.

Should the kickback hit the drops or go round the mini loop?

Any tips on upper pf flipper alignment?

I've had trouble leveling this game. The bubble I'd center but it feels like the ball more often bounces to the left off the posts, especially the war rollover posts.

I've used my digital level and it wants me to raise right leg so much that my left leg isn't touching the floor. I've tried levelling the back and my right rear leg is jacked right up while about 3/4 " thread from the feet shows above the leg.

I started ignoring the level and trying to adjust till the ball behaves as you'd expect but it feels weird the levels tell me the opposite.

In a double knights challenge the right saucer had the multiball light illuminates but when a ball went in there it just sat there then ejected.
Did seem odd to have multiball lit when already in a multiball.

hehe hehe, he said he "blew a tranny".

I like warm leds(this is a medieval game) But prefer reds under red inserts.

The ball always falls to the right on the upper playfield on my game. . .go figure.

The kick save hits the drop targets.

The upper flipper I keep reasonably back, good for loops and the upkick volley shot for.the ramp.

The knights challenge saucer is a place to park the ball for a few seconds during multi ball.

Mines like this, I had it further back but can't really tell the difference.
Is yours in line with the art?

I can do two or three loops but haven't managed 5 yet.20220329_204738 (resized).jpg

Joined the club with this beauty

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Anyone have a good feel for what a BK2000 is good to better not perfect… condition should be going for in this current market?

I'm struggling to do more than 3 loops on the upper playfield. It's like the ball drops right before the gate on the right.
I've got no rubber on that post which people say improves the ability to loop.

Does the playfield pitch being steeper or shallower help or hinder the loop?
I had mine at 6.5 but wonder if 6.0 might be better for this game?

I like the speed of bk2k, it keeps you shooting .

Has anyone used Comet Sunlights for GI, I'm undecided between sunlight and warm white. Unfortunately there's nowhere in UK that had warm whites so I can't really get a few to try.

I happen to like the Sunlights in general... I know with all the browns and blacks in the game the warm would suit the machine better... but the low light output always just makes everything so dark. Cool white... no. Maybe for white inserts... but still keep going with Sunlight...

Cool white I avoid for gi except in maybe a few rare locations where there's blues but I find it far too cold and harsh.
Luckily I may have found some warm whites in the UK to try out

I'd love to led the inserts but would want an Afterglow or Ledocd first.

Here is mine. I've had 4 or 5 loops. This is the look with warm white leds, frosted. I am not a fan of older games with sun or cool whites. They never looked like that to begin with.

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That's beautiful! Thanks for sharing.

I managed 6 loops with the pitch lowered slightly!

Finally back in the club after selling mine several years ago. I regretted that a lot but at the time I needed some other games in my collection and BK2K had to be the sacrificial lamb. I finally feel like my collection is good enough to support having BK2K again.

This one is filthy, with crap mylar and some pretty meh wear outside of the mylar but it plays well in spite of all that. The LEDs are absolutely heinous...

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I say your right

Not sure why people do that, especially to games that are already dark to start... it won't be that way for long.

Cleaned and waxed, PBL clear silicone rings, and Comet 2SMD cool white GI. Backbox was a mix of 2SMD warm, some domeless white 1SMD, and some weird 2SMD faceted-ish kinda bulbs.

I'll probably play around a bit more with the configuration in the backbox and maybe add a few spots here and there.

It cleaned up pretty nice and plays great but it's definitely NOT a restore candidate (without swapping at least the upper) unfortunately. It is what it is.

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Oh... much better up top with lanes white. I usually splash color in the lanes but it was all wrong on bk.

Evos added also.

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Really could use some help/Ideas on this BK2K I have been working on.

It's a friends BK2K. The entire Playfield was swapped, it worked fine before the swap.

-After the Playfield swap the game would boot and freeze after the "I AM THE BLACK KNIGHT" callout and display 00.

-Before I touched it the owner moved the CPU board to Swords of Fury, (without switching any ROM chips) The game booted and then froze, like it did in BK2K, displaying 00. (I did not see this, but I trust him, read further and you'll see why it's confusing)

-He decided it was something on the PCB after that "test", so he asked me to look at it. I found some really black diodes and some build up of corrosion on connector pins, and tons of cold/crappy looking solder joints. I replaced the fishy diodes, re-flowed the solder on the entire board, as well as emory-clothed all connector pins and the legs of each removable IC. I also installed NVRAM and removed the remote battery. Under the original battery tray there were a lot of scratches across traces but none seemed to go too deep into the green solder mask.

-When I installed the board It booted, I could add coins, and start a game. I completed an entire game and it worked fine for 2 games. I left victorious. He turned it on hours later and started a game, and the similar problem happened again, this time though in the middle of his game. Frozen and 00 displayed. From this point on it is randomly Freezing & displaying 00 or rebooting (exiting out of the in progress game and back to attract mode)

-So I came back and checked all of the connectors, re-seated everything, same issue

-Swapped the ROM chips with Swords of Fury, then swapped the PCBs (So the SOF PCB was in the BK2K with the BK2K ROMS...and BK2K PCB was in SOF with SOF ROMS) and the Game worked perfectly fine in SOF....but the exact same issue happened on BK2K with the random freeze/reboot after (or during 1-2) games. (indicating to me it was not the PCB)

*this confused me as it seemed the issue was NOT following the PCB....which contradicts the initial information the owner gave me.

-So this made me think it might be the ROM chips because that was the only constant (Besides the Playfield+CPU Chips+other PCBs) So I bought new ROMS and put them in, still the same problem using the SOF board with the BK2K chips.

-I bought new CPU chips as well (MC6802P) came in a pack of 5. when I replace U24 with the new CPU chip the game boots and has the same Freeze/Reboot issue. If I replace U15 with a new chip, the machine doesn't boot (Same thing happened in Mousin Around & SOF so it could just be the new CPU chips, however it's weird that it works fine in U24) Only if U15 has one of the original MC6802P chips will the game boot (and have the same Freeze/reboot issue)

-I have swapped every combination of PCBs and CPU chips in his SOF AND Mousin' Around and the issue Never follows the PCB or chips....I am unable to replicate his initial "The problem followed the PCB" diagnosis.

-Now I am at a loss, I have inspected tons of Diodes (I know testing them while installed isn't super reliable) but they seem Ok, I did find one on that looked toasted on the upper-playfield-target bank (and wasn't letting any current pass either direction) so I replaced that one (although it tested fine once removed)

-I have tried playing a game with the sound PCB unplugged, all of the display wires unplugged, and I went one-at-a-time unplugging each Connector from every board, booting up, starting a game (as long as the connector didn't disable the start button) and the Freeze/reboot would still happen randomly. I also tried with the upper playfield hardware unplugged (The lower PCB with J1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8 connectors), I have swapped the Power PCB, and the Aux-Power-Driver PCB with SOF & Mousin Around (ones that matched) and no luck, same Frozen and 00 display/random reboot issue on the BK2k table regardless of what known good hardware is in it from the other 2 machines.

any Ideas?

Pull the Mylar or leave as is? What are my chances that I will pull up Art?

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I think the consensus will be not to remove because of art lifting. If you do, I would like to know because mine is the same way. I have been pondering this as well.