I can make that with stainless steel that is tig welded. I make and sell wireforms for mandalorian and jjp gnr. I am waiting on a reply from a seller not too far from me on a bk now. If I cant get the machine would anyone be interested in loaning me one to clone? I would send that person a new wireform along with the loaner back to you for free as part of loan.

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I'd be happy to let you borrow my BK2K wireform to clone if it will help others...

I have an extra one (not installed) to loan as well.

Thats good for the first guy. Pm sent.

I think allot of people would buy one. They are very hard to find intact
Hope it works out

Yeah my friend who started the wireforms is simply overloaded with his day job to get to it right now- I have collected names of interested people though Loganpinball - I'll send them out to you. If you can make this wireform you've saved a TON of games.

I just agreed to buy bk2000 and should be picking it this up Sunday. I never played this one. I had original bk and sword of rage le in the past. I need to play it to understand the spring? Looking at pictures of playfield I see room to make a creative replacement long rail on the front of upper playfield. I look forward to tweaking the game. I will make clones and make as many as requested.

Great offer, thank you. I was asked by a few people to look into it. I dont want to overstep your plans. I will post the clones and the other designed wireform idea here when I get the game.

No overstepping, Jay was just going to start making them to help people out. Once upon a time I had a BK2K that was missing one and yeah... Not fun to have an unobtanium wireform missing. I'm just glad someone is making them!

I’ve needed this wire form for seven years so I’m psyched you’re making it!

Me too, definitely in for one. Thanks for stepping up and offering to make them.

The spring needs to be a spring because of the way the upper PF pivots up to service below. if it were a solid wire it would interfere with the Upper PF when folded upward.

I'd be in for one if it is a clone of the original part.

Bob

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Thanks for the info. I really did not understand it. I can definetely clone that wireform with a spring for those who want that. I really think theres a better solution to that. Wont know until I get it in the garage, but I really think that is a silly solution.

Here is an ipdb photo. I tend to like original. But if you come up with something cool that's ok too.

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I notice a lot of single point welded tabs on williams stuff. That is a no no with welded wire.

Like on Taxi:
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Should probably be like this...
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I have a solution. It will make sense visually. The spring is not needed. You will understand when I make my wireform. And like I said I will make them with or without the spring.
And everything I make is welded on every point of contact on both sides.

Step one completed. A few hours I will be home. I bought this just to makevthe wireforms!

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I think it’s one of the coolest playing games from that era. The music is also very well done.
Hope you enjoy it as well as figure out a new wireform.

This is the most excited I have been for years for this game.
I've been with two damaged and "rewelded" wireform ramps for this
game since I got it.....The one at the front edge of the upper playfield
on mine was also damaged and rewelded poorly.
I'm so in for this when they are done.
Thanks again to all involved.

This is what all the fuss is about? Stay tuned. Stage 2 in progress!

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Your is missing the extra leg as well..
You may need that loaner ?

No loaner needed. Its just a support arm. I have to take a break. I will have my first clone done tonight. The rod I have is smaller. I have to see if I can find the size on it for the purists. The rod I have has been beaten to death on location games and had no issue. I will update later. This is so doable!

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I’m having a problem with the lower right flipper staying energized.
If I shut off the machine, or push the flipper down while on it will drop.
When I turn the machine on the flipper is in the down position.
When I manually move the lower flipper up and down, the upper flipper moves too.
The flipper mech moves freely, and snaps right back with the power off.
It’s not hanging up on anything.
Can it still be a transistor problem if the flipper isn’t locked on?
Any ideas?

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I do not know how to paste topics on forum. But, I just created a topic for the wireforms I am making for this game. Please feel free to follow that one to the end results.

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https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/black-knight-2000-wireform

How hard is it push down when it sticks?
The return spring looks stretched, if it’s a light touch to get it down you could try a new spring or just add a second for a test.
But something seems magnetized if drops right when turn it off

Other things you Prb checked already but.
Eos opening all the way
Coil stop new
Sleeve bad
Flipper button cab switch spaced ?
I also had bad bushing do that even though not metal

Nothing is hanging up on the flippers.
The sleeves, stops, and gaps are
good.
I just switched coils and still have the problem.

Cabinet switch good ?
Tabs on eos not touching or bad solder joint?
Stronger Spring as a test

When you push it down how much pressure ?

Is the flipper bushing newish?

Scratch the bushing then… I missed what you said

I got it working.
There was a nick in the insulation on one of the switch wires that was grounding out.

Hi,

Anyone know of a repro or file download for the free T-Shirt and the Remove Screw for Service stickers typically found on the back wall of the playfield?

Thanks.

(from IPDB - Image Courtesy of Federico Croci)

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Maybe, the upper flipper needs a rebuild? You could also check the gate next to the W in the WIN lanes. Mine was sticking on post rubber next to it. Also, my targets in the WIN lane are raised a little which causes issues occasionally.

Believe I have a Black Knight 2000 being shipped to me as my first pinball machine. Both excited and anxious. A bit nervous about maintaining it and the shipping process. Considering trying to find someone local that is more experienced to run through it as a sanity check.

Starting to try to assess what I should try to do to the machine. Definitely has some wear, but pretty excited and happy with what I got. I believe I've reached out to every person advertising pinball servicing in Seattle, but I didn't get a single response from any of them. I'm looking at the play field and feel like there should be something I can do to improve it, but I don't have a sense between a repro like microplayfields or trying to reach out to a restoration company like las vegas playfields. Maybe both so there is a back up?

For someone that is pretty new to pinball, would the wire form mods from Loganpinball be beneficial to learn and practice with?

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Your PF looks fine, and unless you just NEED “perfection” I wouldn’t mess with it. That Mylar bubbling is very common and it’s super difficult to correct without causing a lot of PF damage.

And if you do need perfection, well, I’ve seen the Mirco in one of these guys and it’s gorgeous… but it takes some dialing in to be sure.

I also wouldn’t change your wire forms unless your old ones are broken or missing, and yours don’t seem to be.

Honestly it just looks like a nice, original BK2K and you can spend a bunch of money trying to make it better and really not gaining much. My vote is play the hell out of it!

I don't know who you reached out to but I would imagine that they are all super busy. I assume those guys also charge a standard "call out" fee and then a subsequent per hour fee beyond that for time spent. I would not ask anyone to come out unless you have a specific reason for them to come out. That would be a waste of money. If you're looking for someone to work through this then you should look for someone in the local community rather than a repair company. You want a social relationship not a business one. The (small number of) repair people I know are always busy.

I have to agree that you should play the game first and do small things like adjustments. Graduate to things like sleeve replacements or flipper rebuilds before you jump to playfield swaps. Of course ... I don't know your experience level but you do state that you are new to pinball.

Love BK 2000, I think it's the best late 80's pin.
Bought mine 3 years ago from Odin, or his friend, little confused who's game it was.
Thanks to Quartermaster for the introduction.
Amazing that the guy who owned the Arcade I went to as a kid is now helping me find games.

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Thanks guys, I appreciate the response.

gunstarhero That makes me feel better about delaying doing anything to it. Maybe I’ll do some upgrades after a bit of time.

DumbAss I knew I would pay a service fee, but I figured it’d be worth it to have someone with a bit of experience walk me through the machine. It was more for that than to have them explicitly “fix” it. I have done some hobbyist electronics repair, so I thought it might be beneficial. I do need to make more friends though

I know some of these local repair companies and I would not let them anywhere near my machines. That's my own personal preference and experience. I have had to repair their repair. Just because someone offers a repair service does not mean that they are competent. The same can be said for any business not just pinball related ones.

• There used to be a local Yahoo group that is now defunct. It moved to some place that I don't know about.
• There are local Fakebook groups but I understand most of them are about buying and selling rather than any social or technical help. I wouldn't know. I don't have a Fakebook account.
• You can either create a general thread asking for contact (not ideal as Pinside is national and international) or you can post a request in the PNW buyer/seller thread.

It's always easier if there's a specific problem that you have. Again ... I'd advise that you play the game until something breaks (because something WILL break) and then initiate contact.

I just picked up a BK2K a few weeks ago so we can work through it together. I’m down in Portland but will be up in Seattle frequently because of my kids hockey so if you need help I could possibly be around. DM if you need to.

That machine is great, I agree with the others do nothing and play the crap out of it.

I totally agree with the others... This game doesnt even have most or any of the typical wear spots! You wont find a BK2K without bubbling mylar, especially on the lightning inserts! You got a nice game, stop scrutinizing and start playing!

Hey guys - apologies in advance, total noob here. Longtime player and just became a first time owner! Fortunately, my fiance is a mechatronic engineer + machinist so he's handling the bulk of the tech work. However, I really want to become competent on the "pedestrian" stuff. I cleaned and waxed the pf. Next item up is replacing all the rubbers. Do you have any tips or best practices specifically for BK2K rubber replacement? So far I've replaced the rubbers on the flippers, shooter tip, and most of the 1" ones on the upper pf. I'm nervous to start removing the wireforms and larger plastic parts though Appreciate any guidance you can share. We're playing the heck out of our BK2K and I want to give it the TLC it deserves!

You will have to get passed that. Just take many pictures of stuff before you take it apart. I recommend high res pics that you can view on a monitor for great detail. Also there will be many pics on this thread and in the archived classified adds for BK2K. Start with something easier, then when you have success with that, you will build your confidence.
Full top side teardown, cleaning, polishing PF and various parts, wax PF and re assemble from you pics will kind of be the goal of building your confidence. What rubber rings and posts to use is up to you entirely. Titan rings are great quality silicon rings, but just a white or black cheap rubber kit for a given game is what I usually use.

dozer1 thank you for this! Just took a ton of pictures and am rolling up the sleeves to get to work. Appreciate your guidance.

Anybody change the Knight decals on the drop targets. Easiest to disassemble from below to get full access or doable from playfield side by holding up the drops? The decal goes fairly deep into the drop so the topside technique seems like it may be a challenge.

I've done this recently. taking the drop target assemblies out entirely is actually quite simple - and that way you can ensure you get the decals on straight and aligned.

I tried to go through the sound test on my machine and I was surprised to see it only seems to go to 04 when the manual says it should go to 07.

Also if the match up for a free game occurs, I hear a very loud pop from the machine. Any ideas?

That is your knocker. It is extremely common on games, and is expected when you win a free game in-game or match.

Music test (00) goes to 04. Sound test (02) goes to 07. For both of them 00 means no music or no sound.

Thanks everyone, that makes sense.

Hey, does anyone have an apron they can sell me? Or know where i can get the apron decals?